Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7a | ★★★ DNA
The island's most popular, steep tufa climb. A good introduction to the style. In peak season, come early for a quick onsight or join the crowd until the sun hits. Set: Thomas Michaelides & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2001 Maint: 2016 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Mad Max
FA: D. Papageorgiou | 15m, 8 | Merenda | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Ivi
A step upwards from DNA but at least as good! One reachy move makes it harder for the short. Set: 2002 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Trela
Being less steep than the 7's to the left, Trela still requires a lot of endurance or better, some creative kneebars. Take the rightmost line of the shared start with Punto Caramelo and Tufantastic. [Rope beta: A 70m rope is more than enough for leading and lowering (even though the guidebook says 40m). BUT be aware that stripping QDs might need more rope depending on technique.] Set: Olivier Didon, Guy Abert, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001 | 40m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Kastor
Set: Thomas Michaelides & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2000 | 15m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Kerveros
Set: Chris Seekircher & Susanne Kolmbauer, 2003 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Crosta Pànic P1
| 25m, 10 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Melodrama
Pumpy and consistent on blobs and a tufa fin. A good line except for one section at the start where it merges with the route to the left. Set: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2011 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Viagraman
| 30m, 12 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Maracuja
Tricky, vertical climbing on edges. To the right of El Schuppo. FA: Uwe Eder & Zimmermann | 17m, 5 | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
7a | ★★★ Yellow Submarine
Relatively easy first half and a long crux sequence at mid height. | 21m, 7 | Berdorf | ||
7a | ★★★ Ricounet
Tufa blobs lead to a tufa-fin chimney. Set: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 25m, 11 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ KalyPige
Set: Michel Piola, 2004 | 35m, 17 | Kalymnos | ||
8 | ★★★ Dampfhammer
FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1979 | 14m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a+ | ★★ Aphrodite
Short, with a bouldery sequence on pinches. Set: Fritz Amann & Hermann Erber, 2001 | 12m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Dionysos
Set: Aris Theodoropoulos & Thomas Michaelides, 2000 | 22m | Kalymnos | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Lagneia
Set: 2005 | 15m, 6 | Kipoi | ||
7a | ★★★ Plan Z dos
| 28m, 13 | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★ Lo Deje To Blanco
| 30m, 11 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ ¡Ay Mamita!
A bit run-out at the top. | 35m, 12 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Ixion
A fantastic route that offers technical climbing with some thin moves in the first half. Sustained second half up the cracks and small tufas. Easier for the tall. Set: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2005 | 25m, 11 | Kalymnos | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Island in the Sun
Tufas and a crux on pockets. Set: Karsten Oelze, 1999 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena
| 30m, 10 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Xoris Oikto
Set: 2005 | 15m, 6 | Kipoi | ||
7a | ★★ Crisis
A good introduction to the climbing in this sector. Good value for the grade. Set: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2011 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Purgandus Populus
1
6a
2
7a
About as much technical, vertical, slab as you can put into 40m of rock. Good value for the grade. | 40m, 2, 15 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★ Omero
A technical wall climb. Set: Andrea di Bari & team, 1997 | 22m, 10 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Que pasa neng
| 20m | Margalef | ||
7a | ★★★ Klemeni Omorfia
Set: 2005 | 15m, 6 | Kipoi | ||
7a | ★★ Mon Batchounousougounoudoudou
Set: D. Winkler, J.-B. Winkler & Michel Piola, 2002 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Lolita
Probably not your first 7a. A stiff intro, some intimidating moves on mushrooms and a bouldery crux higher up. The bolts are far apart for Kaly standards. Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7a+ | ★★ Unicorn
Steep enduro fest with a bouldery, technical crux. Great climbing and committing to the anchor. Set: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2016 | 18m, 8 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Las bolas del chino
1
6b+
2
7a
Long climb with an intermediate anchor where the real difficulties start.
Set: Timy | 32m, 2, 16 | Caimari | ||
7a | ★★★ Sendero Luminoso
Amazing and varied climb. A must-do. | 37m | Chulilla | ||
7a+ | ★★ Lucky Luca
Set: Michi & Co., 2000 | 15m | Kalymnos | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Voleur De Spits
A pumpy Berdorf-icon on jugs and pockets. | 19m, 11 | Berdorf | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Mort aux Chèvres
An impressive, rightward leaning line of tufas with a crux sequence on small holds. The bolts are far apart for Kaly standards. Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Takla Makan
This short but relentless Berdorf classic is infamous for its low first crux. FA: Raymond Haupert & Jacques Welter, 1984 Set: Jeannot Kartheiser, 1984 | 15m, 6 | Berdorf | ||
7a | ★★★ Thimari
Set: Guy Albert, Olivier Didon, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001 | 30m, 8 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Poema de Roca (L1) | 23m, 9 | El Chorro | ||
7a | ★★ Top of the rock
Very polished start with insecure clipping positions. The climbing improves significantly after bolt 3. | 30m, 13 | Chulilla | ||
6c+ - 7a+ | ★★★ Kyparissi
Guidebooks 6c+/7a+, 8a.nu consensus 6c+/7a. Set: D. Stravogenis, 2005 | 15m, 7 | Kyparissi | ||
6c+/7a | ★★★ Fun and Fuck
Pumpy route with a couple of small cruxes. Set: Remy & partners, 2017 | 20m, 10 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ Brigadistak
Thin and techy on great quality, vertical rock. | 30m, 11 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ La Vagoneta
Use the left-hand ladder to start. | 20m | Tenerife | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Nickel
To climb the original line, stay in the bolt line at the 2nd last bolt. See also: 'Nickel (Left Variation)'. Set: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2005 | 32m | Kalymnos | ||
7a+ | ★★ Attitude
Set: Simon Montmory, 2009 | 20m, 9 | Kalymnos | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Boubouki Ext
Set: Micha Schreiber, 2014 | 38m, 18 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ Globus
A hard slab on the orange-grey wall, requiring good footwork. Then sustained and steep climbing on good pockets. Set: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 35m, 13 | Kalymnos | ||
6c+/7a | ★★★ Mystère et Boule de Gomme
Guidebooks 6c+/7a, 8a.nu consensus 6c+/7a. Set: Vincent Lauzon, 2014 | 20m, 10 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★ Elefantenhimmel
Infamous hard anchor-clip and possible rope drag problems. Otherwise great tufa climbing at around 6b+. Set: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Felix Meier, 2001 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
8 | ★★★ Computerspiele
| 23m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★ Bis a bis
| 20m, 7 | Rodellar | ||
8 | ★★★ Ejakulation
Two harder sections, first face climbing on crimpers, second a litte overhang to the anchor, separated by a no-hand-rest. FA: R. Kraft, 1997 | 18m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a | ★★★ Aeolia
Great, playful moves inside and next to the diagonal tufa corner. Set: Antonis Skevofylakas & Thomas Michaelides, 2002 | 30m, 11 | Kalymnos | ||
7a+ | ★★ Ballos
Pumpy blobs and a technical crux on smooth pinches and edges. Avoid on humid days. Set: Aris Theodoropoulos & Simon Montmory, 2010 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Yoko M-ono
Set: Micha Schreiber, 2015 | 22m, 11 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ Blue agave
| 35m, 17 | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★★ El guerrero pacífico
Long moves on jugs. Quite soft for the grade (7a) given by the guidebook. Set: Ramón Navarro "Ramonet" | Bellus-Alboy | |||
7a+ | ★★ Vromika Myala | 25m | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★ Mike
A technical wallclimb with several hard parts and a distinctive long move. Unclipping the first QD after reaching the 2nd and extending the 3rd QD will greatly reduce rope drag. Set: Mike Moes, 1992 | 27m, 11 | Berdorf | ||
7a+ | ★★ Parapluie
A straightforward boulder to exit the roof. | 18m, 8 | Berdorf | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Paranihida
Set: Spiros Kouthouris, 2008 | 20m, 10 | Leonidio | ||
7a+ | ★★ Adolflahaut
Tufa blobs and a fingery crux on broccoli crimps. Set: Franck Andalfatto, André Langenbach & Claude Idoux, 2010 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
8 | ★★ Heldbräu
FFA: Klaus Kaumeier, 1993 | 16m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Si vas níquel fas tard
| 22m | Siurana | ||
8 | ★★ Reinhard-Karl-Gedächtnisweg mit Dach | 16m, 9 | Humboldtbunker | ||
7a+ | ★★★ La Petite Illusion
Tremendous climbing, Run-outs bits aren't too hard, so keep going! | 40m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★★ La Javanaise
Great climbing with no tricks. | 25m | Céüse | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Angel Dust
Sustained, technical climbing. | 25m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★ El Oasis
Bolts a bit off to the side. Polished. | 27m | Chulilla | ||
8 | ★★ Brothers in Arms
FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt | 12m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Miguel Gómez
| 27m | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★ Fouska
Start in the back left of the little cave. Up steeply on big jugs to a contorted finish. Set: John Mendez, 2001 | 12m, 7 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Franja de Ponent
| 20m | Margalef | ||
7a | ★★★ Santana
FA: Bernhard Schiestl, 1996 | 22m, 10 | Ewige Jagdgründe | ||
FB:6B | ★★ Macedonia | 3m | Albarracín | ||
7a | ★★ Cigarillo
Set: 2002 | 28m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Cojón prieto
At right side of priminent corner along right leaning flake. | 30m, 11 | Siurana | ||
7a | ★★★ Nymph
An overhanging, quite gymlike climb. Set: Markus Stofer, Michael Schuh, Claudia Voth & Gavvy King, 2003 | 20m, 6 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ Ananda
| 25m | Céüse | ||
7a | ★★ Makari
Short but intense and pumpy with a reachy crux towards the end of the organ pipes. Set: Remy & partners, 2017 | 18m, 8 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★ Sens Unique
A long, vertical journey, on smooth orange rock, mostly requiring good footwork and routefinding skills. Set: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2009 | 40m | Kalymnos | ||
7a+ | ★★ Elies
Set: Andrea Minneto & Silvia Minneto, 1999 | 18m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Se m'apaga la baldufa
| 20m, 6 | Siurana | ||
7a+ | ★★ Verikoko
Set: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2009 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ La Danza del Maestrale | 25m, 12 | Ogliastra | ||
7a+ | ★★★ skilo mayro | 28m, 11 | Vikos Gorge | ||
7a+ | ★★ El Corridon de la Muerte
Crimpy | 25m, 10 | Siurana | ||
7a+ | ★★ Conflicto Territorial
| 32m | Chulilla | ||
7a | ★★★ Estupendiux
| 25m, 10 | Patones | ||
7a | ★★ Red Sea Secrets
Good route with a juggy tufa start and a technical upper half. Unfortunately, very poor and sparse bolt placement makes it hard to enjoy if you're not very comfortable in the grade. Set: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2009 | 28m, 7 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★ Attero Dominatus | 10m, 9 | Leonidio | ||
7a+ | ★★ No Sleep till Hammersmith
Powerful pumpy start onto a wall with good holds and a fun bridging section between the tufas. Be very careful with the loose flakes on top of the tufa! Shares the top section and anchor with 'Motörhead'. Set: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2007 | 25m, 11 | Kalymnos | ||
7a | ★★★ La Morena del Muntsant
| 41m | Siurana | ||
7a+ | ★★ Kneebaropoulos
Set: George Kopalides & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2016 | 25m, 11 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★ Chuck Notis
Set: Micha Schreiber, 2015 | 20m, 10 | Leonidio | ||
7a | ★★★ Alkionida
Set: A. Skevofilakas - K. Labadarios, 2004 | 30m | Ymittos | ||
7a+ | ★★ Pim Pam Pons (L1)
Two hard cruxes that favour the tall. | 20m, 10 | Chulilla | ||
8+ | ★★★ Die Vollendung
| 27m | Frankenjura Nord |