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Jean des Vignes Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Damian Mathias Woltery David M. Bibi Garcia Bernii Michelle C

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Jean des Vignes 123 routes in Field

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.383427, 2.522602

access issues

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

inherited from France

ethic

ALL FIRES ARE PROHIBITED IN THE FOREST

NO CIGARETTES !!! NO STOVES !! NO OPEN FLAMES

The sandstone is fragile. To preserve the area (and the climbs) please adhere to the following rules:

  1. Use chalk with caution and brush it off afterwards (including huge tick marks).

  2. Chalk should only be used on hands, never directly on the rock!

  3. Clean the bottom of your climbing shoes removing all sand and dirt before any climb. This is essential to limit rock erosion.

  4. DONT CLIMB ON WET ROCK!!!!

  5. Night climbing is prohibited to reduce the impact on the animal habitat.

  6. Dont use the base of the routes as your toilet. Go into the forest a little further off the track or out of the area for a 1 and dig a hole for a 2.

Respectons Bleau

Bien grimper

inherited from Fontainebleau

1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1) 31 routes in Feature

Summary:

description

This is a completely new circuit as of 2022. It currently contains 28 problems from 2C to 3C.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Orange 1 2B Boulder
2 Orange 2 3A Boulder
3 Orange 3 4A Boulder
4 Orange 4 3C Boulder
5 Orange 5 3C Boulder
6 Orange 6 3C Boulder
7 Le Mur des Vipères / Orange 6b / Ancien Bleu 2 4A Boulder
8 Orange 7 3C Boulder
9 Orange 8 / Ancien Bleu 5 / Le Triton 3C Boulder 3m
10 Orange 9 4A Boulder
11 Orange 10 / Ancien Bleu 7 / La Malmok 4C Boulder 3m
12 Orange 11 Boulder
13 La Dalle Rando / Orange 12 / Ancien bleu 8 3A Boulder
14 Orange 13 Boulder
15 Orange 14 Boulder
16 Orange 15 / Ancien bleu 11 / Le Hamburger 3C Boulder
17 Orange 16 4A Boulder
18 Orange 17 Boulder
19 Orange 18 Boulder
20 Orange 19 Boulder
21 Orange 20 / Ancien Bleu 19 tri / La Pause 3A Boulder 3m
22 Orange 21 Boulder
23 Orange 22 / Ancien Bleu 21 / Les Bouleaux 3C Boulder 3m
24 Orange 23 / Ancien Bleu 24 / Le Requin 4A Boulder 4m
25 Orange 24 / Ancien Bleu 23 / Les Racines 4A Boulder 3m
26 Orange 25 Boulder
27 Orange 26 Boulder
28 Orange 27 Boulder
29 Orange 28 Boulder
30 Orange 29 / Ancien Bleu 30 / L'Invisible {FB} 4C Boulder 3m
31 Orange 30 Boulder

1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1) 48 routes in Feature

Summary:

history

Créé en 1974, revu en 2005, repris en 2022.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Coup d'approche / Bleu 1 Boulder
3 Le trou tordu / Bleu 2 Boulder
4 Talon agile / Bleu 2b {FB} 5+ Boulder
5 Le jardin / Bleu 3 Boulder
6 Le Départ (Bleu 4) / Ancien Bleu 1 4A Boulder 3m
7 La Traversée Retrouvée (Bleu 4 var) / Ancien Bleu 1bis 5A Boulder 4m
8 La Ventouse (Bleu 5) / Ancien Bleu 3 4A Boulder 3m
9 Tatou (Bleu 5 var) / Ancien Bleu 3 bis 6A Boulder 3m
10 Nouvelle Donne (Bleu 6) / Ancien Bleu 4 4A Boulder 3m
11 La Tubulaire (Bleu 7) / Ancien Bleu 5 bis

Chimney climbing at its best.

5B Boulder 3m
12 La Bruyère (Bleu 8) / Ancien Bleu 6 3C Boulder 3m
13 La Déversante (Bleu 8b) / Ancien Bleu 6 bis 6A Boulder 3m
14 Libre service / Bleu 9 Boulder
15 Joli Coup (Bleu 10) / Ancien Bleu 7 bis 5A Boulder 3m
16 Surenchère / Bleu 11 Boulder
17 Le Mur des Frelons (Bleu 12) / Ancien Bleu 9 4A Boulder
18 L'Autoroute (Bleu 13) / Ancien Bleu 10 4B Boulder
19 Le Hop dog / Bleu 14 Boulder
20 Master of Crispette (Bleu 15) / Ancien Bleu 12 4C Boulder 3m
21 Les Frelons (Bleu 16) / Ancien Bleu 13

Traverse left to right on big sloping jugs and top out on far right arete.

4C Boulder 5m
22 Le Toit de l'Arbre Mort (Bleu 16b) / Ancien Bleu 14 5B Boulder 3m
23 Les Fanons (Bleu 17) / Ancien Bleu 15

Great face climbing on small edges.

4A Boulder 3m
24 La Baleine (Bleu 18) / Ancien Bleu 15 bis 4C Boulder 3m
25 Catacombes (Bleu 19) / Ancien Bleu 16 5A Boulder 3m
26 La Discrète (Bleu 20) / Ancien Bleu 17 4B Boulder 4m
27 La Soufflerie (Bleu 20b) / Ancien Bleu 18 bis 5C Boulder 3m
28 Le Ventral (Bleu 20 var) / Ancien Bleu 18 5A Boulder 4m
29 Le Triangle (Bleu 21) / Ancien Bleu 19 4C Boulder 4m
30 La Matoutou (Bleu 21b) / Ancien Bleu 19 bis 4B Boulder 3m
31 Le Coude à Sophie (Bleu 22) / Ancien Bleu 20 4B Boulder 4m
32 La Douceur (Bleu 23b) / Ancien Bleu 25 5B Boulder 4m
33 L'Incongrue (Bleu 23t) / Ancien Bleu 26 5B Boulder 3m
34 Urgence (Bleu 24) / Ancien Bleu 22 5A Boulder 3m
35 La Taillée (Bleu 25) / Ancien Bleu 27 4C Boulder 3m
36 La sévère / Bleu 26 Boulder
37 Le Pilastre (Bleu 27) / Ancien Bleu 28 5B Boulder 3m
38 Course de Limaces (Bleu 28) / Ancien Bleu 29 5A Boulder 3m
39 La Traversée Naphtaline (Bleu 29) / Ancien Bleu 31 4A Boulder 4m
40 La Volte-Face (Bleu 30) / Ancien Bleu 32 4C Boulder 3m
41 Coccyx Semonce (Bleu 31) / Ancien Bleu 34 bis 5B Boulder 4m
42 Coccyx Ultimatum (Bleu 31b) / Ancien Bleu 34 5C Boulder 3m
43 Voie des trous / Bleu 32 Boulder
44 Tranche de l'art / Bleu 32 b Boulder

1.2.1. Old problems 5 routes in Feature

Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Le Pilier / Ancien Bleu 5 tri 5B Boulder 3m
2 La Sablière / Ancien Bleu 10 bis 6A Boulder 3m
3 L'Angle Jean / Ancien Bleu 20 bis 5B Boulder 3m
4 La Proue / Ancien Bleu 33 4C Boulder 3m
5 Le Cervin des Vignes / Ancien Bleu 35 4A Boulder 3m

1.3. Off circuit boulders 44 routes in Feature

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Vieille Poutre 8A Boulder
2 Hotspot (du fond) 7B+ Boulder
3 Le Pierrot Lunaire 7B+ Boulder
4 Le Poulpe 7B+ Boulder
5 Les Spartiates (assis) 7B+ Boulder
6 Simili Poutre 7B+ Boulder
7 La Faim du Tigre 7B Boulder
8 La faim du tigre (sortie droite) 7A Boulder
9 La Volte-Face (direct) 7B Boulder
10 53 Gertrude 7A+ Boulder
11 Hotspot 7A+ Boulder
12 La Poutre Logique 7A+ Boulder
13 La Tempête Divine (assis) 7A+ Boulder
14 Orage 7A+ Boulder
15 Soleil Cherche Futur (gauche) 7A+ Boulder
16 Coup de Vent (direct) 7A Boulder
17 Nouvelle Vague 7A Boulder
18 Rouleau Compresseur 7A Boulder
19 70° à l'Ombre

The locals give it 6C+. Its definitely morph and the finish has a sting.

{FB} 6C+ Boulder
20 360 Degrés

FA: Alexis Allayaud

6B Boulder
21 Aller avec la Nature

#sd

FA: Thierry Vasseur & Tony Fouchereau

6A Boulder
22 Coup de Vent (droite)

FA: Pepito

6B+ Boulder
23 La Chauffe des Spartiates

#sd

FA: Tony Fouchereau

6B Boulder
24 La Déversante (assis)

#sd

6B Boulder
25 La Mokmal (debout) aka Surplomb Alexis

Start on sloper undercling with left hand on large sloper jug. Gain left hueco and mantle.

{FB} 6B Boulder
26 La Mokmal (assis)

Sit start on sloper side pulls to huge sloper jug. Gain the hueco and mantle hard.

FA: Alexis Allayaud

6C Boulder
27 La Tempête Divine

FA: Thierry Vasseur, Sébastien Herbst & Tony Fouchereau

6C Boulder
28 La Traversée de Hotspot

#traverse

FA: Tony Fouchereau

6C Boulder
29 Le Bon Idée

#sd

FA: Pepito

6B+ Boulder
30 Une Autre Bonne Idée

Steep over-hanging line. Its got it all......Jugs, pockets, heel hooks, toe hooks and it requires a little technical work as well!!! Have Fun...........

FA: Craig Hitchcock, 29 Aug 2020

{FB} 6C Boulder 3m
31 Le Super Pilastre

#traverse

6C Boulder
32 Les Spartiates

FA: Thierry Vasseur & Tony Fouchereau

6C Boulder
33 Petite Poutre (Direct) 6B Boulder 3m
34 Petite Poutre

#traverse

FA: Pepito

6C+ Boulder
35 Rouleau Divers

#traverse

6C Boulder
36 Rouleau d'Été

#traverse #sd

FA: Gars Des Bois

6B+ Boulder
37 Soleil Cherche Futur

FA: Thierry Vasseur & Tony Fouchereau

6B Boulder
38 Soleil Cherche Futur (debout)

FA: Thierry Vasseur & Tony Fouchereau

6A Boulder
39 Soleil Sucré

#sd

FA: Filo Benjamin-Nunes

5B Boulder
40 The Hot Spot

#sd

FA: Tony Fouchereau

5C Boulder
41 Ultravrouw

#sd

FA: Tao Claes & Nicolas Stevens

6C Boulder
42 Ultravrouw (prolongé)

#traverse

FA: Jérôme Buc & Frédéric Buc

6C+ Boulder
43 Agile Talon (assis) 6A Boulder
44 Agile Talon (prolongé) 6B Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
2B Orange 1 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
3A La Dalle Rando Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 2 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 20 Boulder 3m 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
3C Orange 15 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 22 Boulder 3m 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 4 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 5 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 6 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 7 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 8 Boulder 3m 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
La Bruyère (Bleu 8) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
4A Le Mur des Vipères Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 16 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 23 Boulder 4m 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 24 Boulder 3m 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 3 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 9 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
La Traversée Naphtaline (Bleu 29) Boulder 4m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
La Ventouse (Bleu 5) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Le Départ (Bleu 4) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Le Mur des Frelons (Bleu 12) Boulder 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Les Fanons (Bleu 17) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Nouvelle Donne (Bleu 6) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Le Cervin des Vignes Boulder 3m 1.2.1. Old problems
4B L'Autoroute (Bleu 13) Boulder 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
La Discrète (Bleu 20) Boulder 4m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
La Matoutou (Bleu 21b) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Le Coude à Sophie (Bleu 22) Boulder 4m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
4C Orange 10 Boulder 3m 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 29 Boulder 3m 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
La Baleine (Bleu 18) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
La Taillée (Bleu 25) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
La Volte-Face (Bleu 30) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Le Triangle (Bleu 21) Boulder 4m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Les Frelons (Bleu 16) Boulder 5m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Master of Crispette (Bleu 15) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
La Proue Boulder 3m 1.2.1. Old problems
5A Catacombes (Bleu 19) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Course de Limaces (Bleu 28) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Joli Coup (Bleu 10) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
La Traversée Retrouvée (Bleu 4 var) Boulder 4m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Le Ventral (Bleu 20 var) Boulder 4m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Urgence (Bleu 24) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
5B Coccyx Semonce (Bleu 31) Boulder 4m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
L'Incongrue (Bleu 23t) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
La Douceur (Bleu 23b) Boulder 4m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
La Tubulaire (Bleu 7) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Le Pilastre (Bleu 27) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Le Toit de l'Arbre Mort (Bleu 16b) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
L'Angle Jean Boulder 3m 1.2.1. Old problems
Le Pilier Boulder 3m 1.2.1. Old problems
Soleil Sucré Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
5C Coccyx Ultimatum (Bleu 31b) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
La Soufflerie (Bleu 20b) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
The Hot Spot Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
5+ Talon agile Boulder 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
6A La Déversante (Bleu 8b) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Tatou (Bleu 5 var) Boulder 3m 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
La Sablière Boulder 3m 1.2.1. Old problems
Agile Talon (assis) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Aller avec la Nature Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Soleil Cherche Futur (debout) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
6B 360 Degrés Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Agile Talon (prolongé) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
La Chauffe des Spartiates Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
La Déversante (assis) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
La Mokmal (debout) aka Surplomb Alexis Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Petite Poutre (Direct) Boulder 3m 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Soleil Cherche Futur Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
6B+ Coup de Vent (droite) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Le Bon Idée Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Rouleau d'Été Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
6C La Mokmal (assis) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
La Tempête Divine Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
La Traversée de Hotspot Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Le Super Pilastre Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Les Spartiates Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Rouleau Divers Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Ultravrouw Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Une Autre Bonne Idée Boulder 3m 1.3. Off circuit boulders
6C+ 70° à l'Ombre Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Petite Poutre Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Ultravrouw (prolongé) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
7A Coup de Vent (direct) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
La faim du tigre (sortie droite) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Nouvelle Vague Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Rouleau Compresseur Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
7A+ 53 Gertrude Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Hotspot Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
La Poutre Logique Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
La Tempête Divine (assis) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Orage Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Soleil Cherche Futur (gauche) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
7B La Faim du Tigre Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
La Volte-Face (direct) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
7B+ Hotspot (du fond) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Le Pierrot Lunaire Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Le Poulpe Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Les Spartiates (assis) Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
Simili Poutre Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
8A Vieille Poutre Boulder 1.3. Off circuit boulders
? Orange 11 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 13 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 14 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 17 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 18 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 19 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 21 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 25 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 26 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 27 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 28 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Orange 30 Boulder 1.1. Orange Circuit (AD n° 1)
Coup d'approche Boulder 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
La sévère Boulder 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Le Hop dog Boulder 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Le jardin Boulder 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Le trou tordu Boulder 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Libre service Boulder 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Surenchère Boulder 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Tranche de l'art Boulder 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
Voie des trous Boulder 1.2. Blue circuit (nº 1)
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