A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Campbell Gome Mark Wood Paul Badenoch Patrick Iseli Colin Hugo Vertical Pirate Alex Ennis Budd68 Robin Jodon
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Les Gorges du Verdon
1550 in Crag
-
1.1.
Félines 37 in Cliff
- 1.1.1. Col de l'Âne 5 in Sector
- 1.1.2. Félines 32 in Sector
-
1.2.
Le Galetas 66 in Sector
- 1.2.1. Adieu Zidane 3 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Pédalos 2 in Crag
- 1.2.3. Grotte du Galetas 15 in Cliff
- 1.2.4. Pont du Galetas 5 in Area
- 1.2.5. Secteur Supérieur 11 in Sector
- 1.2.6. Secteur inférieur 9 in Sector
- 1.2.7. Crête des Vernis 9 in Sector
- 1.2.8. Dalle du Galetas 12 in Area
-
1.3.
Belvedere de Mayreste / Mayreste 7 in Sector
- 1.3.1. Mayreste Inférieur 3 in Sector
- 1.3.2. Mayreste Supérieur 0 in Sector
-
1.4.
Main Morte 82 in Sector
- 1.4.1. Main morte 20 in Area
- 1.4.2. Bastidon 12 in Sector
- 1.4.3. Lycée 25 in Sector
- 1.4.4. La Fac 20 in Area
-
1.5.
Malines 39 in Cliff
- 1.5.1. Secteur Caf 0 in Crag
- 1.5.2. Falaise du Pas d'Issane 29 in Cliff
-
1.6.
Imbut 107 in Cliff
- 1.6.1. Que des Nèfles 0 in Sector
- 1.6.2. C'est Arrive 1 in Sector
- 1.6.3. Imbut 7 in Sector
- 1.6.4. Patibulaire 7 in Sector
- 1.6.5. Bec de Lievre 3 in Sector
- 1.6.6. Wapiti 9 in Sector
- 1.6.7. Roumagaou 5 in Sector
- 1.6.8. L'Herbetto 3 in Sector
- 1.6.9. Styx 5 in Sector
- 1.6.10. Babouchemolle 3 in Sector
- 1.6.11. Belvedere 6 in Sector
- 1.6.12. Chan-The 5 in Sector
- 1.6.13. Discorde 6 in Sector
- 1.6.14. Igloo 6 in Sector
- 1.6.15. Le Labo 41 in Crag
- 1.7. Eycharme 16 in Cliff
-
1.8.
L'Escalès 583 in Cliff
-
1.8.1.
Belvedere de la Dent d'Aire 63 in Crag
- 1.8.1.1. Pas de la Bau 10 in Sector
- 1.8.1.2. Liz Taylor 6 in Crag
- 1.8.1.3. Mur Bleu 12 in Crag
- 1.8.1.4. Dent d'Aire 10 in Crag
- 1.8.1.5. Jardin des Suisses 10 in Area
- 1.8.1.6. Souriciere 15 in Crag
-
1.8.2.
Belvedere de l'Escales 140 in Crag
- 1.8.2.1. Surbottes 11 in Crag
- 1.8.2.2. Gueule d'Amour 11 in Crag
- 1.8.2.3. Mort a Venise 18 in Crag
- 1.8.2.4. Surveiller et Punir 18 in Crag
- 1.8.2.5. Mission/Tuyere 21 in Crag
- 1.8.2.6. Virgine 21 in Crag
- 1.8.2.7. Sordidon 11 in Crag
- 1.8.2.8. Seance 20 in Crag
- 1.8.2.9. Debiloff 9 in Crag
-
1.8.3.
Belvedère de la Carelle / Belvedere de la Carelle 211 in Crag
- 1.8.3.1. Fete 13 in Crag
- 1.8.3.2. Toboggan 12 in Crag
- 1.8.3.3. Golem/Mandarine 16 in Crag
- 1.8.3.4. Saut d'Homme 9 in Crag
- 1.8.3.5. Virilimite 10 in Crag
- 1.8.3.6. Fenrir 11 in Sector
- 1.8.3.7. Muab 25 in Crag
- 1.8.3.8. Naziaque 14 in Crag
- 1.8.3.9. Six Fois Zette/Carelle 23 in Crag
- 1.8.3.10. Mami e Ctuluh 21 in Sector
- 1.8.3.11. Pichenibule 10 in Crag
- 1.8.3.12. Dalles Grises 7 in Crag
- 1.8.3.13. Dingo 19 in Crag
- 1.8.3.14. Ecureuils 9 in Crag
- 1.8.3.15. Megafoot 12 in Crag
-
1.8.4.
Belvedere de Trescaire 169 in Crag
- 1.8.4.1. Demande 9 in Crag
- 1.8.4.2. Solanuts 12 in Crag
- 1.8.4.3. Gaelique/Luna Bong 17 in Crag
- 1.8.4.4. Grands Navires 17 in Crag
- 1.8.4.5. Tcheque 21 in Crag
- 1.8.4.6. Paroi Rouge 10 in Crag
- 1.8.4.7. Mescalito 8 in Crag
- 1.8.4.8. Colis 10 in Crag
- 1.8.4.9. La Plage 5 in Crag
- 1.8.4.10. Derobee 10 in Crag
- 1.8.4.11. Castapiagne Rouge 9 in Crag
- 1.8.4.12. Poker 12 in Crag
- 1.8.4.13. Couloir Samson 8 in Area
- 1.8.4.14. Vire des juniors 21 in Cliff
-
1.8.1.
Belvedere de la Dent d'Aire 63 in Crag
-
1.9.
Rive Gauche 478 in Cliff
-
1.9.1.
Les Cavaliers 49 in Crag
- 1.9.1.1. Triple Buse 2 in Crag
- 1.9.1.2. Om Nama Shiva 9 in Crag
- 1.9.1.3. Magnetic Boulevard 5 in Crag
- 1.9.1.4. Enantiomorphe 5 in Crag
- 1.9.1.5. Hozro 6 in Crag
- 1.9.1.6. L'Annee des 13 Lunes 9 in Crag
- 1.9.1.7. 9.81 metres/second/second 5 in Crag
- 1.9.1.8. Par Ici la Sortie 5 in Crag
- 1.9.1.9. Instant Fragile 3 in Crag
-
1.9.2.
Sallières 20 in Crag
- 1.9.2.1. Action de Grace 6 in Crag
- 1.9.2.2. Et Toc la Tete 10 in Crag
- 1.9.2.3. Faux Soleil 4 in Crag
-
1.9.3.
Bauchet 90 in Crag
- 1.9.3.1. Raison d'Hetre 7 in Crag
- 1.9.3.2. Le Reveur Debauche 12 in Crag
- 1.9.3.3. Madame Reve 7 in Crag
- 1.9.3.4. Aquarelle 10 in Crag
- 1.9.3.5. La Bonne Etoile 8 in Crag
- 1.9.3.6. Apiclimber 6 in Crag
- 1.9.3.7. Un Paradis d'Enfer 8 in Crag
- 1.9.3.8. La Catalyse 5 in Crag
- 1.9.3.9. Fatal Mambo 9 in Crag
- 1.9.3.10. Egosystem 8 in Crag
- 1.9.3.11. Outrages du Temps 10 in Crag
-
1.9.4.
Les Hauts Vernis 70 in Crag
- 1.9.4.1. Jeremifasol 4 in Crag
- 1.9.4.2. Qui Reva Verra 10 in Crag
- 1.9.4.3. Or i y a... 8 in Crag
- 1.9.4.4. Yayaourt 5 in Crag
- 1.9.4.5. Fromage et Dessert 4 in Crag
- 1.9.4.6. Chateau des Brumes 5 in Crag
- 1.9.4.7. Premier Point Final 9 in Crag
- 1.9.4.8. Nid d'Aigle 4 in Crag
- 1.9.4.9. Liaison Speciale 6 in Crag
- 1.9.4.10. Marc de Cafe 3 in Crag
- 1.9.4.11. Lucky Luke 12 in Crag
- 1.9.4.12. Sayonara 0 in Crag
- 1.9.5. Pantin du Néant 5 in Crag
- 1.9.6. Les Petites Pointes 4 in Crag
- 1.9.7. Pas de Gairou 5 in Crag
- 1.9.8. La Ramirole 71 in Cliff
-
1.9.9.
Col d'Illoire 16 in Sector
- 1.9.9.1. Fraluc 6 in Crag
- 1.9.9.2. Flamme Noire 10 in Crag
-
1.9.10.
Vallon d'Estay 45 in Crag
- 1.9.10.1. La Chaise Haute 8 in Crag
- 1.9.10.2. Gavade 6 in Crag
- 1.9.10.3. Classes Uniques 11 in Crag
- 1.9.10.4. Big Bosse 12 in Crag
- 1.9.10.5. Graine de Soleil 8 in Crag
-
1.9.11.
Point Sublime 93 in Crag
- 1.9.11.1. Duc-Encastel 52 in Crag
- 1.9.11.2. Baume aux Couillons 29 in Sector
- 1.9.11.3. Grotte du dragon 12 in Cliff
- 1.9.12. Tom et Je Ris 2 in Sector
- 1.9.13. Estellié 6 in Area
- 1.9.14. Pillier Mague 2 in Sector
-
1.9.1.
Les Cavaliers 49 in Crag
- 1.10. Fayet 0 in Crag
- 1.11. Col d'Ayen / Col d'Ayens 42 in Crag
-
1.12.
Mirroir du fou 36 in Crag
- 1.12.1. Gauche du parking 10 in Cliff
- 1.12.2. Secteur droite en haut de l'échelle 10 in Unknown
- 1.12.3. Septième Saut 16 in Area
- 1.13. Valaute Gauche 29 in Crag
- 1.14. Free Tibet / Monier / Petit Eycharme / Moyen Eycharme 10 in Crag
- 1.15. Le bunker 4 in Boulder
- 1.16. Teens 11 in Cliff
- 1.17. La Tête de singe 2 in Cliff
- 1.18. Moustiers 1 in Area
-
1.1.
Félines 37 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Les Gorges du Verdon 1,550 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.788534, 6.220397
summary
Classic exposed sport climbing in a beautiful natural setting.
description
The deepest limestone canyon in France and often considered the most beautiful in Europe. It's about 25km long and 700m deep in some places, adding plenty of exposure to the more than 1,500 routes (from 5a to 9a+) that have made its reputation worldwide. The area is popular for its sustained multi-pitches, classic single pitches and for its natural beauty.
access issues
The gorges are the home of a few protected bird species. Some areas may be closed during nesting season.
approach
You will need a car to access most routes and areas. The closest town is La-Palud-Sur-Verdon where you'll find a climbing shop, accommodations and a camping site.
Routes are accessed either by abseiling or by walking. Approach time can vary between 5min and 2h.
where to stay
Camping is prohibited in the gorges. Note that the river is managed by EDF (french electricity provider) which operates the dam upstream. Don't stay near the river when water is being released as the level will change rapidly. There have been accidents in the past.
ethic
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
1.1. Félines 37 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.818540, 6.252175
1.1.1. Col de l'Âne 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.818120, 6.256944
description
A beautiful area with 3 easy multi-pitches that offer splendid views on the Lac de Sainte Croix.
approach
Park at the Col de Félines car Park on D952. A dirt track starts 100m away in the direction of La Palud and across the road. Follow this for 300m until you reach a crossing with signs. Keep following the track and turn left 150m later on a perpendicular track. Follow this uphill until you reach the base of the cliff.
descent notes
4 rap stations on Le Don de L'Aigle or via a steep descent with fixed ropes. Walking off is easier and faster.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ L'arête de la Patte de Chèvre
Well equipped and an easy intro to the Verdon rock. Set: Faudou, 2012 | 5b+ | 130m, 7 | |||
2 |
★★ Lunathine
Similar to Le Don de L'Aigle, only easier. Set: Faudou, 2012 | 6a+ | 130m, 5 | |||
3 |
★★ La Bleue
The two 6b+ are stiff Set: N.Salvagiot, 2016 FA: N. Salvagiot, 2016 | 6b+ | 130m, 5 | |||
4 |
★★ Le Don de l'Aigle
Already a classic. 5 pitches with varied styles. Set: Faudou & Faburel, 2006 | 6a+ | 130m, 5 | |||
5 |
★★★ Les bonnes résolutions
FA: P. Faudou, 2016 | 6b | 130m, 5 |
1.1.2. Félines 32 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.820282, 6.245027
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Niagarak | 6a+ | 40m, 2 | |||
2 | Yakafaukon | 6c+ | 40m | |||
3 | C? | 6c+ | ||||
4 | D? | 6c | ||||
5 | Il bidone | 6c | ||||
6 | Une voie n'est pas Coutume | 6c+ | 40m | |||
7 | ★★ Des spits pour le dire | 6a+ | 45m, 2 | |||
8 | ★★★ Les jardins de navarre (a) | 6a+ | ||||
9 | ★ Les jardins de navarre (b) | 5c | ||||
10 | ★ Les jardins de navarre (c) | 6a+ | ||||
11 |
Chute de Glands
L2 is left line after the anchor. Alternate L2 lines are L'évidence (middle) and Vraiment Gland (right line) | 6b+ | 50m, 2 | |||
12 |
L'évidence
L2 alternate finish to Chute de Glands (middle line) | 5c+ | ||||
13 |
Vraiment gland
L2 alternate finish to Chute de Glands (right line) | 6b+ | ||||
14 | Vite fait bien fait | 7a | 2 | |||
15 | Profite troll | 6b+ | 2 | |||
16 |
Dédicace
L2 alternate finish to Profite Troll (to the right) | 6c+ | ||||
17 | Takavasy | 6b | ||||
18 | ★★ La cerise | 7a+ | 55m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★★ La cité des dalles | 6c+ | 50m, 2 | |||
20 | La plus facile | 5a | ||||
21 | ★★ Chameau | 5a | ||||
22 | Yectebroete | 5c | ||||
23 |
La fissure
Same anchor as Yectebroete | 4c | ||||
24 | ★ Un Point c'est Tout | 5c+ | 20m | |||
25 | ★ ?? | 6a | ||||
26 | ★ Destruction Créatrice | 6b | 20m | |||
27 | ★★ Private dancing | 6b+ | 55m, 2 | |||
28 | Tsipana | 5c | ||||
29 | Harpo | 6a | ||||
30 | Groucho | 7a | ||||
31 | Chico | 6c | ||||
32 | Les arts plastiques | 6a |
1.2. Le Galetas 66 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.802364, 6.253327
1.2.1. Adieu Zidane 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.800685, 6.255875
description
Named after the French soccer team lost a World Cup final. Bolter Bruno Clément is known for is contempt toward all things soccer...
approach
All routes are accessed from the lookout (11km from La Palud, going to the Pont de Galetas). Take care on the slab with the rap station. To rap down, take a 100m static line to do it in one go or do 3 successive rappels.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Hissage Nocturne
A little harder than Adieu Zidane. Set: Bruno Clément, 2003 | 6a+ | 130m, 9 | |||
2 |
★★ Adieu Zidane
Easy but steep. The traverse pitch is gold. Set: Bruno Clément, 2002 | 6a | 100m, 5 | |||
3 |
Fièvre Résurectionnelle
A boulder move on Pitch 2. Set: Bruno Clément, 2013 | 5c | 100m, 4 |
1.2.2. Pédalos 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
access issues
Don't climb in summer (pedalos).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La Grande Picoterie | 7a A0 | 100m, 4 | |||
2 | Touché Coullet | 7b+ | 100m, 3 |
1.2.3. Grotte du Galetas 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.800780, 6.252639
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sans nom | 6a | ||||
2 | Sans nom 2 | 6a | ||||
3 | Sans nom 3 | 6c | 2 | |||
4 | ★★★ L'Antonin de jardin | 8a | ||||
5 | Sans nom 4 | 7c | ||||
6 |
Spider cochon
Onsighted by Charlotte Durif (8/7/2008). Set: Antonin Rhodes | 8b+ | 2 | |||
7 | Joyeux Noël | 7b+ | ||||
8 | Pue le Fion | 8b+ | ||||
9 |
Les 3 P / Pan, Piano, Perfo / Les Trois P / PPP
According to Charlotte Durif, the route can be split in 3 sections. The lower third that consists of half of "Pue le fion" 8b+ with two or three small key movements a little morpho; the middle third with three very technical key moves and a very tough section; and a third section with three serious key movements of "Pull Over" 8c+. Third female 9a by Charlotte Durif (18 août 2011). FA: Adam Ondra, 2010 | 9a | 50m | |||
10 | Pull Over | 8c+ | ||||
11 | Pue l'ovaire | 9a | ||||
12 | La belle histoire de fesse | |||||
13 | A chit tallon | 7b+ | ||||
14 | Sans nom 5 | 7b+ | ||||
15 | Sans nom 6 | 7b |
1.2.4. Pont du Galetas 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: 43.801104, 6.251415
summary
Deep water solo area that's perfect to cool down in summer
description
Deep Water solo area. You can hire one at the boat rental service on the beach of the Lac Sainte-Croix.
access issues
Very busy in Summer, watch for people around you before jumping off. Be aware that the level of water changes all the time.
approach
By boat only
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Crag le Sept
Big Crag on right side in a corner around 150 m Has shade in the afternoon. Watch out for loose rocks. FFA: Roos Jeroense, 6 Aug 2019 | 5c | ||||||
2 |
★★ l'oblique
On left side around 175 m in from bridge. almost across " le sept" just a bit further. FA: Roos Jeroense, 6 Aug 2019 | 4 | ||||||
3 |
Le Juste
Pretty crag nice to a small beach in the right corner. Around 200 m in from bridge. FA: Roos Jeroense, 6 Aug 2019 | 6a | ||||||
4 |
★★ Le coin
Corner next to Le Juste. around 200 m in from bridge on right ride. This one has sun all day. Traverse a bit when you get up. makes it more safe to jump. There is a little beach close by in the corner. FA: Roos Jeroense, 6 Aug 2019 | 4 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 |
★★ Tuffa Traversée
follow the tuffa's | 6a | 20m |
1.2.5. Secteur Supérieur 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ F.A.B | 5c | 25m, 11 | |||
2 | ★★ Ris (63) | 5a+ | 14m, 6 | |||
3 | ★ io' | 4b+ | 14m, 4 | |||
4 | ★★★ Noir, de preference. | 5b | 24m, 9 | |||
5 | ★★★ O-C2 | 6a+ | 35m, 12 | |||
6 | ★★★ Annee d'eclipse | 6a | 35m, 13 | |||
7 | ★★★ Le Plein de jus | 6a | 35m, 10 | |||
8 | ★★★ Passerelle minute | 6a | 35m, 10 | |||
9 | ★★★ L'embarras du choix (directe) | 6b+ | 32m, 9 | |||
10 | ★★★ L'embarras du choix (variante) | 6a | 35m, 8 | |||
11 | ★★ Le retour de Granola | 5b | 30m, 10 |
1.2.6. Secteur inférieur 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Docteur Grappe | 4a | ||||
2 | Antibio-Pool | 4b | ||||
3 | Tatiana | 4a | ||||
4 | Pope et Moune | 3b | ||||
5 | Crastaingite Aigue | 3b | ||||
6 | Le Grand Lenthier | 3b | ||||
7 | Maitre Taffit | 3a | ||||
8 | Cactus Boy | 3b | ||||
9 | Les Yeux d'Olga | 3a |
1.2.7. Crête des Vernis 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
description
Rive Gauche
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
El passejada del papets
FA: Jean-Pierre Hermitte & Robert Milesi, 2017 | 6b+ | 280m, 12 | |||
2 |
La voie est libre ?
Set: Patrice Goerger & Lionel Minassian, 2013 | 7c | 300m, 13 | |||
3 | Big up | 8a | 220m, 7 | |||
4 |
Cereal killer
FA: Norbert Salvagiot, 2015 | 7a | 220m, 7 | |||
5 | Asterix et périls | 7a | 220m, 8 | |||
6 |
★★ Éperon des venellois
FA: Patrice Goerger & Lionel Minassian, 2014 | 6b | 280m, 9 | |||
7 |
★★★ Une pincée de ketchup
FA: Pascal Faudou & Norbert Salvagiot, 2016 | 6c | 280m, 10 | |||
8 |
Instant cruxial
FA: Norbert Salvagiot, 2017 | 7a+ | 300m, 11 | |||
9 |
★ Liberées Délivrées
FA: Vertical Pirate, Laurence Raith & Bernard Pégourié, 24 May 2020 | 6b | 100m, 5 |
1.2.8. Dalle du Galetas 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.804453, 6.253338
summary
Huge slab wall with lower and intermediate level climbs
approach
Access from the gorges road that leads to Moustiers. Park at the view point with the graffiti and take the path the leads down to the right
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ FAB | 5c | 30m, 11 | |||||
2 | ★★ Ris | 5b | 15m | |||||
3 | ★ Io | 4c | 15m | |||||
4 | ★★ Noir de préférence | 5b | 30m | |||||
5 | ★★ O-C2 | 6a+ | 35m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | ★★★ Année d'éclipse | 6a | 35m, 13 | |||||
7 | ★★★ Plein de jus | 6a | 30m, 12 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Passerelle minute
Warning Fixed Gear: Maillon is warn. | 6a | 30m | |||||
9 | L'embarras du choix | 6b+ | 30m | |||||
10 | ★ L'embarras du choix 2 | 6a | 30m | |||||
11 | ★★ Le retour de granola | 5b | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 | ★★ No name | 5c | 15m |
1.3. Belvedere de Mayreste 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.775472, 6.278550
description
Beautiful wall with some good quality multi-pitches.
approach
Walk to Belvedere de Mayreste for about 5 minutes, then go right for about 25m, and then left. follow the track with cairns that will lead to the cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3 |
Tarabiscotage Verdonesque
First climb to the left (looking at the wall). The first 4 pitches go up, close to the anchors for the third rappel. Then 2 pitches traversing right crossing PLMEPLS. Then it goes up for the last 3 pitches. FA: P. Faudou, 2017 | 6b | 200m, 9 | |||
4 |
★★★ Pour le Meilleur et Pour le Spit
The rappel to access the bottom of the cliff if from the top of this route. Very good rock quality from second pitch. FA: B. Clement, 2013 | 6b | 180m, 5 | |||
5 | Sans gluten et sanglier | 8b | 200m, 5 | |||
6 | Ca vaut l'tour | 6a+ | 250m, 9 |
1.3.1. Mayreste Inférieur 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Blond qui Peut | 6c+ | 150m, 6 | |||
2 | ★★★ La Laïspité Positive | 6a+ | 150m, 7 | |||
3 | Due Poveri Vecchi | 7a+ | 150m, 7 |
1.3.2. Mayreste Supérieur 0 routes in Sector
1.4. Main Morte 82 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.767549, 6.320746
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Couennes | ||||||||
Grandes voies | ||||||||
7 |
★★ Voie THT
FA: Bruno Clément, 2004 | 6a | 150m, 5 | |||||
8 |
Bill Boroud l'Espion
FA: A. Kelloumi, 2006 | 7b+ | 80m | |||||
9 |
Le Retour a la Terre
FA: A. Kelloumi, 2006 | 7a+ | 80m | |||||
10 | Projet | |||||||
11 |
Que des Nefles
FA: A.Jamin & X. Grand, 2003 | 7a+ | 90m |
1.4.1. Main morte 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.768394, 6.323481
approach
Park in sharp bend 2.3 km from La Palud towards La Maline (43.7683744N, 6.3275135E). Follow path towards the cliff. At a fork, take the right one.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Anis Elbow | 7a+ | 20m | |||
2 | Ta Mère Chausse du 2 | 7b | 20m | |||
3 | Lieux Sacrés | 7b+ | 20m | |||
4 |
★★ Lieux Sacrés - Variante
Alternate start to Lieux Sacrés at the big grey tufa | 8a | 20m | |||
5 | Voie Zipy | 7c | 20m | |||
6 | L'Enfer Provisoire | 8a+ | 35m | |||
7 | Great Guigue in the Sky | 7c+ | 30m | |||
8 | Mister Flan | 7c+ | 10m | |||
9 | Sourire Canaille | 7c+ | 10m | |||
10 | Tu Piges Mec? | 8a | 10m | |||
11 | Exil sur Plantète Fantôme | 7c | 20m | |||
12 | Gris Fluo | 7c | 20m | |||
13 | Bleu Banane | 7b+ | 20m | |||
14 | Corps Gerne et Cœur Tendre | 7b | ||||
15 | À Donf | 8a | 15m | |||
16 | L'Ombre d'un Doute | 8b | 20m | |||
17 | Béta Coinceur | 7c+ | 15m | |||
18 | Le Temps d'un Instant | 8a+ | 15m | |||
19 | Un Air de Rap | 8a | 15m | |||
20 | Bobobiceps | 7b | 10m |
1.4.2. Bastidon 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
Recently bolted in 2004. Really good bolting compared to Verdon standards
approach
20 min from Bastidon walking track
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
A
Set: 2004 | 4c+ | 15m | |||
2 |
B
Set: 2004 | 5b | 20m | |||
3 |
★★ C
Set: 2004 | 6b | 25m | |||
4 |
★ Voyage dans L'Aude La
Set: 2004 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
5 |
★★★ Tout le monde en parle
Set: 2004 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
6 |
Mr. Bean
Set: 2004 | 6c | ||||
7 |
Le p’tit VTT de Steph
Set: 2004 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
8 |
★ Gordius Aquaticus
Set: 2004 | 5c | 15m | |||
9 |
★ Ii
Set: 2004 | 5c | 15m | |||
10 |
★★★ Jurasseric Park
Set: 2004 | 6a | 25m | |||
11 |
★★ K
Set: E.Valls, 2004 | 6a | 25m, 10 | |||
12 |
★ le Miraculé du Toboggan
Set: L.M. Trojet, 2004 | 7a | 40m, 2 |
1.4.3. Lycée 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.767173, 6.321002
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ No name | 6c | ||||
2 | Le Mic | 6a | ||||
3 | ★★ Le Mac | 6a+ | ||||
4 | Le Sourire | |||||
5 | Office National des Faux-Cuis | 7b+ | ||||
6 | 3+3=4+2 | 7c+ | ||||
7 | Opéra Bouffe | 8a | ||||
8 | Tu Pue du Clue | 8b | ||||
9 | Kangoolala | 5b | ||||
10 | ★★★ Pas de Bloc Picasso | 7c+ | 40m, 3 | |||
11 | La Voie du Commissaire | 7b+ | ||||
12 | La Foire aux Escargots | 7b+ | ||||
13 |
★★ La Souris Schizo
Nice warm up first pitch, then it goes right on some jugs, and up to a technical sequence. | 7a | 30m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ L'Enjeu | 6b+ | ||||
15 | ★★ Touche Pas à mon Arbre | 6a+ | ||||
16 | ? | 7b+ | ||||
17 | Drags Couennes | 7c | ||||
18 | Tom Bombadilom / 7c+ | |||||
19 | Le Meilleur Mouton | 7c | ||||
20 | B.Clément | 7a+ | ||||
21 | B.Clément | 7a | ||||
22 | B.Clément | 5b | ||||
23 | B.Clément | 5c | ||||
24 | B.Clément | 6a+ | ||||
25 | B.Clément | 6b |
1.4.4. La Fac 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.766760, 6.317806
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | No name | 7b | ||||
2 | Les Semeurs | 7b | ||||
3 | 0 de Conduite | 7c+ | ||||
4 | Bac Moins 1 | 7c | ||||
5 | Thése et Vous | 7c+ | ||||
6 |
Le Guy Michelin
Project | |||||
7 | Doctorat Saucissonage | 7c | ||||
8 | Les Diplômés | 8a | ||||
9 | Bacs en Vrac | 7c+ | ||||
10 | Maitrîse Stg | 8a+ | ||||
11 | Licence Steack | 8a | ||||
12 | La Ratatouille Niçoise | 8c | ||||
13 | La Fac | 7b | ||||
14 | Trio | 7a | ||||
15 | Au Bonheur des Dames | 7a | ||||
16 | No name | 7a | ||||
17 | No name | 6c | ||||
18 | No name | 6b | ||||
19 | No name | 7b | ||||
20 | No name | 7b |
1.5. Malines 39 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.748309, 6.327311
description
Big wall with several multi-pitch routes. Well bolted. Approach by descent from a road above the cliff.
approach
Find the entry to a path marked with stone cairns, located along the road next to Arete du Belvedere (on the left when walking from the viewpoint in the direction towards La Palud-sur-Verdon). The path is steep and exposed, in some places it's necessary to scramble down. At one point it becomes too sketchy to walk down and a series of at least 5 rappel stations allows to get down safely. Be sure not to miss them! The first one, as most of them, is built out of a collection of climbing slings fixed on a bush, with a pair of quicklinks to thread the rope through. In one case here's a bolt. Once you've rappelled down to the bottom of the canyon, head left for about 100 m, circumvent the first crag until you find yourself at the base of a yellow-tinted overhang. Most multi-pitch routes are in that area, and most of them have names written on the rock at their base.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 | Or Sujet | 6c | 280m, 9 | |||
3 |
★★ Arete du Belvedere
Set: B.Bouscasse & F.Guillot, 1972 | 6a+ | 250m, 9 | |||
4 |
★★ La Voie des Dalles
Set: B.Bouscasse & F. Guillot, 1972 | 5c+ | 250m, 9 | |||
5 | Telegrammes | 6c | 8 | |||
6 | Chan-The | 6a | 7 | |||
7 |
Une Histoire sans Fin
The signature at the base of the rock seems to have worn out or maybe it's placed in a non-obvious spot. Despite being listed after "Chan-The" in most guidebook, the start is actually to the left of that one, about 15 m away. Characteristic with golden-hued bolts, long first pitch and the second pitch traversing far to the left. After the third pitch you reach a junction - take the long pitch to the right to continue "Une Histoire Sans Fin". The short pitch to the left would instead bring you onto "Fleur de Solstice". | 6b+ | 8 | |||
8 |
Fleur de Solstice
Starts after p3 from 'Une Histoire sans Fin' | 6a+ | 4 | |||
9 | ★★ Lame Fatale / Trache sur la Tranche | 6c | 250m, 7 | |||
10 | Les Fils de l'Haltere et du Pan | 6c | 250m, 9 | |||
11 |
★★★ L'igloo Troglo
Nice crack line FA: Martine Guyomar, Bernard Gorgeon & Christian Guyomar | 5c | 230m, 7 |
1.5.1. Secteur Caf 0 routes in Crag
1.5.2. Falaise du Pas d'Issane 29 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Auboudubou | 5c | ||||
2 | ★★ Zebra | 5c | ||||
3 | La belle en Dallouze | 6b+ | ||||
4 | Mi-angle mi-démon | 6c+ | ||||
5 | Un Hiver aux Trous | 6b | ||||
6 | ★★★ Ce Cas m'isole de Force | 6b | ||||
7 | Corona Chaos | 6c | ||||
8 | ★★★ Vas-Y Milo! | 6b+/c | ||||
9 | Le Gogo Baba Gobe | 7a | ||||
10 | Mano a Mano | 7a+ | ||||
11 | Colocaïne | 7a | ||||
12 | Trou et son contraire | 6b+ | ||||
13 | ★★ Bonne pioche | 6b | ||||
14 | Terrien t'es Rien | 7b+ | ||||
15 | Kama sous toit | 7a+ | ||||
16 | Les trois Mouflons | 7b+ | ||||
17 | ★★ T'as Pas Cent Bacs? | 6a | ||||
18 | Lévitraction | 7c | ||||
19 | Zou Maï | 7a+ | ||||
20 | Vol au-dessous d'un nid de Cafistes | 6b | ||||
21 | Pas de Bras, Pas d'Issane | 6b+ | ||||
22 | Spitage en Catimini | 6a | ||||
23 | Men in Bacs | 5c+ | ||||
24 | Hein oui? | 5c | ||||
25 | La coulée Noire | 6b | ||||
26 | Y'a du Monde au Balcon | 6b+ | ||||
27 | Abracadabrac | 6a+ | ||||
28 | Débarquement Immediate | 6c | ||||
29 | Ho Hisse ! Äne | 7a |
1.6. Imbut 107 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 43.754382, 6.318502
1.6.1. Que des Nèfles 0 routes in Sector
1.6.2. C'est Arrive 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
C'est Arrive Prez de Chez Vous
FA: P. Jammeron, 2004 | 8b | 160m, 6 |
1.6.3. Imbut 7 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
La Touche Qui Mousse
FA: M. Guyomar & C. Guyomar, 1977 | 4b A2 | 180m, 5 | |||
2 |
L'Arcanson
FA: C. Guyomar & C. Hautcoeur, 1976 | 6b | 200m, 5 | |||
3 |
Unknown
New route that starts at the base of the cliff. Always close to the rappel line. Starts easy with the same pitch as Liberte Surveillee and goes straight up where you came down. Second pitch seems to be the hardest through the overhang. | |||||
4 |
★★ Liberte Surveillee
FA: P. Faudou, 2009 | 6b+ | 130m, 5 | |||
5 |
Ras Lebolchoi
FA: P. Faudou, 2005 | 6c+ | 180m, 5 | |||
6 |
La Decize
FA: c. Guyomar & G. Prioreschi, 1976 | 6a A2 | 200m, 5 | |||
7 |
L'age de Raison
FA: P. Berhault, 1994 | 7b+ | 200m |
1.6.4. Patibulaire 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Diedre des Aixois
FA: J-P. Bouquier, G. Creton, Y. Racaud & B. Vuilemin, 1973 | 6c+ | 200m, 9 | |||
2 |
★★★ Hold Up Mental
FA: J-M. Paris, 2000 | 7b | 200m, 7 | |||
3 |
l'adopatab
FA: C. Guyomar & S. Troussier, 1976 | 5c A1 | 150m, 3 | |||
4 |
★★★ La Limite des Possibilites Humaines
FA: P. Faudou, 2004 | 6c+ | 200m, 6 | |||
5 |
Patibulaire
FA: C. Guyomar & P. Bestagno, 1979 | 6b+ | 200m, 6 | |||
6 |
Variante du Gobbi
FA: F. Guillot & G. Merlin, 1977 | 5c A1 | 60m, 2 | |||
7 |
Le Gobbi
FA: H. Juilian & S. Troussier, 1976 | 5c A2 | 180m, 6 |
1.6.5. Bec de Lievre 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
l'Aigue
FA: J-P. Bouquier & G. Creton | 5b A2 | 200m, 6 | |||
2 |
Overkill
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1981 | 5b A3 | 200m, 6 | |||
3 |
Le Bec de Lievre
FA: G. Creton & C. Gimel, 1974 | 6b A2 | 200m, 5 |
1.6.6. Wapiti 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Le Beau Menace
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1980 | 5c A2 | 200m | |||
2 |
La Recherche
FA: F. Guiliot & B. Gaschignard, 1973 | 6a | 200m, 7 | |||
3 |
Le Sons Apocalyptiques
FA: c. Remy & Y. Remy, 1980 | 5c A2 | 200m, 7 | |||
4 |
Delice du Wapati
FA: 1992 | 7b | 200m, 7 | |||
5 |
La Directe de la Recherche
Direct Start to La Recherche FA: M. Guyomar & C. Guyomar, 1975 | 5c+ | 25m | |||
6 |
Rinquinquin
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1984 | 5c A2 | 180m, 6 | |||
7 |
La Carriere
FA: P. Berhault & M. Dufranc, 1977 | 5c A1 | 170m, 5 | |||
8 |
★★★ E Pericoloso Sporgersi
FA: F. Guiliot & J. Coquegnoit, 1976 | 5c+ A1 | 180m | |||
9 |
Le Coeur
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1984 | 6b A2 | 180m, 6 |
1.6.7. Roumagaou 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Roumagaou
FA: J-P. Bouquier & G. Creton, 1973 | 6c | 180m, 6 | |||
2 |
Peril Helvetic
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1982 | 5b A3 | 180m, 6 | |||
3 |
De l'Art et du Cochon
FA: C. Remy & Y.Remy, 1987 | 7b | 180m, 5 | |||
4 | Peril Rouge | 7b+ | 180m, 5 | |||
5 |
Perli Juane
FA: R. Balestra & V. Giacomo, 1977 | 5c A4 | 180m |
1.6.8. L'Herbetto 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
La Scolocation
FA: S. Valencogne & Y. Courtes, 2004 | 7c+ | 140m, 3 | |||
2 |
Vouai Vouai Vouai
FA: B. Clement, 1999 | 7b | 70m, 2 | |||
3 |
★★ l'herbetto
FA: B. Cazenave & G. Creton, 1975 | 5a | 200m, 10 |
1.6.9. Styx 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Les mains dans le sel
FA: L. Catsotannis, 2007 | 7a | 200m, 8 | |||
2 |
Passion d'Aventure
FA: C. Remy & Y.Remy, 1986 | 6c | 120m, 5 | |||
3 |
Coup dans l'Eau
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1986 | 6b | 130m | |||
4 |
L'Oreille
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1986 | 5c+ | 40m | |||
5 |
Le Deluge
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1986 | 6a A1 | 60m, 2 |
1.6.10. Babouchemolle 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Babouchemolle
FA: B. Gorgeon, 1986 | 6b+ | 110m, 4 | |||
2 |
★★ La Lune Aux Oiseaux
FA: B. Gorgeon & N. Flory, 1986 | 6b | 130m, 4 | |||
3 |
Eperon B.-B.
FA: B. Bouscasse & R. Bonnard, 1973 | 5c | 100m, 4 |
1.6.11. Belvedere 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Or Sujet
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1988 | 6c | 150m, 9 | |||
2 |
★★ Arete du Belvedere
FA: B. Bouscasse & F. Guiliot, 1972 | 6a+ | 250m, 8 | |||
3 |
★★★ Les Dalles
FA: B. Bouscasse & F. Guiliot, 1972 | 5c+ | 250m, 10 | |||
4 |
Directe des Dalles
FA: B. Bouscasse & F. Guiliot, 1972 | 5c+ | 250m, 10 | |||
5 |
★★ Telegrammes
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1981 | 6c | 250m, 10 | |||
6 |
15 Fois Vincent
FA: B. Gorgeon, Y. Maitrejean & B. Vullemin, 1989 | 6a | 150m |
1.6.12. Chan-The 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Fleur de Solstice
FA: Feltrin, Jean François Gras, Marc Guiot & Jean-François Lignan, 1996 | 6b | 200m, 10 | |||
2 |
Une Histoire Sans Fin
FA: J. Charrier, L.M. Troger & A. Jamin, 2008 | 6b+ | 200m, 7 | |||
3 |
L'Arete Grise
FA: M. Andre & G. Vincent, 1973 | 6a | 200m, 7 | |||
4 |
Chan-The
FA: F. Guiliot & J.P. Folliet, 1972 | 5c | 200m, 7 | |||
5 |
★★★ L'Ame Fatale
18 Quickdraws recommended FA: P. Faudou, 2003 | 6c | 200m, 7 |
1.6.13. Discorde 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
La Parisienne
FA: R. Bonnard & M. Coquilat, 1979 | 5c A3 | 250m, 7 | |||
2 |
LA J.-P. Gaffard
FA: P. Berhault & M. Dufranc, 1977 | 5c A2 | 250m, 8 | |||
3 |
L'Homme Perdu
FA: S. Morizot, B. Bouscasse & M. Coquilat, 1973 | 5b A2 | 250m, 7 | |||
4 |
La Pedale Feutree
FA: c. Deck & F. Guiliot, 1973 | 6a A3 | 250m, 7 | |||
5 |
Les Suprises
FA: M. Afanassiel & F. Guiliot, 1973 | 6b A1 | 200m, 7 | |||
6 |
La Discorde
FA: R. Bonnard, R. Fustin & A. Querelle, 1973 | 5c A2 | 250m, 10 |
1.6.14. Igloo 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Tricrotale
FA: Y. Clave & B. Gorgeon, 1999 | 6b | 150m, 4 | |||
2 |
Wamblimole
FA: Y. Clave & B. Gorgeon, 1998 | 5b | 150m, 5 | |||
3 |
★★★ Le Sactoufuatestu
FA: F. Devoluet & T. Testud, 1998 | 5c | 150m, 5 | |||
4 |
L'Igloo-Troglo
FA: M. Guyomar, C. Guyomar & B. Gorgeon, 1977 | 5b+ | 230m, 4 | |||
5 |
Jules et Jim
FA: J. Ackerman & J.-M. Blanche, 2001 | 6c+ | 120m, 5 | |||
6 |
C117
FA: J.-M. Blanche & E. Poirier, 1999 | 5c | 140m |
1.6.15. Le Labo 41 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.760196, 6.321029
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Java | 7a | ||||
2 | la Médaille | 8b+ | ||||
3 | Bonne Mine de Rien | 6b+ | ||||
4 | le Champ de Certitudes | 7c | ||||
5 | Tarte aux Pommes et Potofeu | 7a | ||||
6 | Y'a Plein de Sandrine | 8b | ||||
7 | Turlute Hutu | 7b+ | ||||
8 | ma Dalle Tonne | 8b+ | ||||
9 | Cosmogol 999 | 8a | ||||
10 | Action Directe | 7b+ | ||||
11 | Trocisson | 8a+ | ||||
12 | Galéjade | 7c | ||||
13 | project | |||||
14 | le Pare-Brise | 8a | ||||
15 | ★ Agathe the Blues | 6a+ | ||||
16 | project | |||||
17 | la Couenne de Léonard | 8a | ||||
18 | Plus On Marche, Plus On Avance | 7c+ | ||||
19 | Femme Fatale | |||||
20 | Nul n'est Censé Ignorer la Joie | 8a | ||||
21 | la Gaelerie | 7a+ | 2 | |||
22 | le Rat des Champs | 6c+ | ||||
23 | Porc Naturel du Merion | 7c | 2 | |||
24 | Dalle Lisse au Pays des Merveilles | 8b | ||||
25 | la Calabrais | 6c+ | ||||
26 | Mucho Blabla | 7a+ | ||||
27 | Pour un Monde sans URSSAF | 8c | ||||
28 | Fraise des Bois | 7a | ||||
29 | Tu me Rends Fougne | 6c | ||||
30 | Project | |||||
31 | Bec Benzéne (right) | 6b+ | 2 | |||
32 | Bec Benzéne (left) | 6c+ | ||||
33 | Un Ecureuil à Centrla Park | 7b | ||||
34 | ? | 7c | ||||
35 | ★★ La gueu pride | 6a | ||||
36 | Quel Panache | 7b | ||||
37 | ? | 7c | ||||
38 | ? | 6b+ | ||||
39 | ? | 6a+ | ||||
40 | Tanou's Family | 6b+ | ||||
41 | ? | 6c |
1.7. Eycharme 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 43.738908, 6.357128
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Agar
FA: c. Remy & Y. Remy, 1985 | 6c A2 | 200m, 8 | |||
2 |
Bleriote
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1982 | 5c | 170m, 8 | |||
3 |
Bambino bambino
FA: Robert Milesi & Jean Pierre Hermitte, 2016 | 7a | 400m, 15 | |||
4 |
★★★ Bwana Maline
Nice easy four pitch multi that wanders around with predominantly slab climbing with some crack features and traverses involved. When rappelling in, a single 60m rope will get you to the anchors at top of pitch two, however a short swing to the right will likely be required. If you rappel to the large tree on the ledge you've missed the pitch two anchors. Look for two single bolts with hangers and a whiteish worn section of rock. Leaving an anchor setup here is ideal if rappelling again from this anchor to the ground. The route starts at ground to the left with a single B scratched into the rock. If linking pitches take lots of extenders, in particular if linking 3 and 4 rope drag can be horrendous. 12 quickdraws if linking pitches, plus anchor gear required, as all anchors are simply two bolted hangers with no connecting hardware. The route gets full afternoon shade. FA: O. Dobel-Ober & J.-J. Lombardi, 1994 | 5b+ | 75m, 4 | |||
5 |
★★★ Bwana Maline (Variant Finish)
Variant finish to Bwana Maline for pitch four. Go direct up from the pitch three anchors. | 6b | 75m, 4 | |||
6 |
Cepaleperou
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1978 | 6a A1 | 200m, 10 | |||
7 |
Dédale et fantaisie
FA: Pascal Faudou, 2007 | 7a+ | 200m, 9 | |||
8 |
Deputindebopa
FA: G. Abert & J. Fabre, 1974 | 7a+ | 200m | |||
9 |
★★★ Estamporanée
FA: F. Guillot & J.M. Picard-Deyme, 1974 | 6c | 200m, 7 | |||
10 |
La Prospection
FA: B. Gaschignard & F. Guiliot, 1973 | 5c A1 | 350m, 9 | |||
11 |
★★★ Le must
Majeur, puissant, à doigts en bon dévers. | 8b+ | 12m | |||
12 |
★★★ Les Caquous
http://abert.fr/accueil/photos/photo/europe/france/verdon/lecharme-les-caquous/caquous-topo.html Set: Guy Abert & Patrick Bestagno, 1993 | 6c | 200m, 8 | |||
13 |
Malice
https://www.escalade-grandesvoies-verdon.com/topo-malice Set: Alain Jamin & Grégoire Sauget, 2014 | 7a+ | 220m, 8 | |||
14 |
Surface
FA: Grégoire Sauget, 2003 | 7b | 200m, 8 | |||
15 |
Team Zinc
Classe. L1 colos, L2 trous. Gros dévers. | 35m | ||||
16 |
★★★ Team Zinc l1+2
Classe. L1 colos, L2 trous. Gros dévers. | 8a+ | 35m |
1.8. L'Escalès 583 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Aid climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 43.772605, 6.380298
1.8.1. Belvedere de la Dent d'Aire 63 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Aid climbing and other styles
1.8.1.1. Pas de la Bau 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Aid climbing and Rock climbing
1.8.1.2. Liz Taylor 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.8.1.3. Mur Bleu 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.8.1.4. Dent d'Aire 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.8.1.5. Jardin des Suisses 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
summary
On the left of the Belvédère de la Dent d'Aire when looking towards the river. One of the few east-facing walls along this part of the road.
1.8.1.6. Souriciere 15 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.2. Belvedere de l'Escales 140 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
1.8.2.1. Surbottes 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
1.8.2.2. Gueule d'Amour 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Aid climbing and other styles
1.8.2.3. Mort a Venise 18 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
1.8.2.4. Surveiller et Punir 18 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.8.2.5. Mission/Tuyere 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.2.6. Virgine 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.2.7. Sordidon 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
1.8.2.8. Seance 20 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
1.8.2.9. Debiloff 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.3. Belvedère de la Carelle 211 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
1.8.3.1. Fete 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.3.2. Toboggan 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.3.3. Golem/Mandarine 16 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.3.4. Saut d'Homme 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.8.3.5. Virilimite 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.3.6. Fenrir 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Sector Fenrir is one of the famous sectors in Verdon with outstanding routes such as Rêve de Fer, Alerte au Gaz and L'Ange en Décomposition.
approach
Park the car at the Belvedere de la Carelle and follow the path right up through the bushes.
1.8.3.7. Muab 25 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
1.8.3.8. Naziaque 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.3.9. Six Fois Zette/Carelle 23 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
1.8.3.10. Mami e Ctuluh 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
description
Two beautiful sectors on compact limestone.
approach
Park the car at the Belvedere de la Carelle and follow the path left through the bushes.
1.8.3.11. Pichenibule 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.8.3.12. Dalles Grises 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.8.3.13. Dingo 19 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.8.3.14. Ecureuils 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.8.3.15. Megafoot 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Aid climbing and Trad climbing
1.8.4. Belvedere de Trescaire 169 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 43.782002, 6.390785
1.8.4.1. Demande 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
1.8.4.2. Solanuts 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.8.4.3. Gaelique/Luna Bong 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.4.4. Grands Navires 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.4.5. Tcheque 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Aid climbing
1.8.4.6. Paroi Rouge 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing and Sport climbing
1.8.4.7. Mescalito 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Aid climbing
1.8.4.8. Colis 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing and Sport climbing
1.8.4.9. La Plage 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing and Sport climbing
1.8.4.10. Derobee 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.4.11. Castapiagne Rouge 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
1.8.4.12. Poker 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Aid climbing
1.8.4.13. Couloir Samson 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
1.8.4.14. Vire des juniors 21 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.781984, 6.390798
1.9. Rive Gauche 478 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.766971, 6.312690
description
The climbs in the south side of the Verdon Gorge.
1.9.1. Les Cavaliers 49 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.737187, 6.347668
1.9.1.1. Triple Buse 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.1.2. Om Nama Shiva 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.1.3. Magnetic Boulevard 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.1.4. Enantiomorphe 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.1.5. Hozro 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.1.6. L'Annee des 13 Lunes 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.1.7. 9.81 metres/second/second 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.1.8. Par Ici la Sortie 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.1.9. Instant Fragile 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.2. Sallières 20 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.746068, 6.327643
1.9.2.1. Action de Grace 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.2.2. Et Toc la Tete 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.2.3. Faux Soleil 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.3. Bauchet 90 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.749664, 6.322081
- With Kids: The base of the wall is mostly flat with space to play and no risk of falling, but the approach is a steep via ferrata. Not recommended for kids.
description
1.9.3.1. Raison d'Hetre 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.3.2. Le Reveur Debauche 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.3.3. Madame Reve 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.3.4. Aquarelle 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.3.5. La Bonne Etoile 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.3.6. Apiclimber 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.3.7. Un Paradis d'Enfer 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.3.8. La Catalyse 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.3.9. Fatal Mambo 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.3.10. Egosystem 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.3.11. Outrages du Temps 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.4. Les Hauts Vernis 70 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.792189, 6.251987
summary
Asome view...through treelines onto the lake...once reacing the top just killed my the beauty!!
description
Nice crag for beginners and medium good climbers....sadly smelling like a toilet on some parts....some climbers are idiots!
access issues
easiest was trough camping place near the lake
approach
Best to check (https://www.openstreetmap.org/changeset/21857034#map=17/43.79415/6.24765&layers=D) could need some more days to add new track beause the path up the hill is a littlebit smaller so easier with a GPS once you found it you will never miss...
where to stay
Camping les galetas directly below the crag (1,8km) Caming de L'Aigle Aiguines (30 min walk to crack)
1.9.4.1. Jeremifasol 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.4.2. Qui Reva Verra 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.4.3. Or i y a... 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.4.4. Yayaourt 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.4.5. Fromage et Dessert 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.4.6. Chateau des Brumes 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.4.7. Premier Point Final 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.4.8. Nid d'Aigle 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.4.9. Liaison Speciale 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.4.10. Marc de Cafe 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.4.11. Lucky Luke 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.789726, 6.251718
1.9.4.12. Sayonara 0 routes in Crag
1.9.5. Pantin du Néant 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.735399, 6.356324
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le Jugement Dernier | 8a | ||||
2 | Pantin du Neant | 8a | ||||
3 | Le Soleil, le Vent | 7b | ||||
4 | Reve d'Enfant | 7b+ | ||||
5 | Grave | 6a |
1.9.6. Les Petites Pointes 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.745161, 6.330461
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Stainless | 7b | ||||
2 | Enivrance d'un Soir | 7b+ | ||||
3 | Hubble | 7a+ | ||||
4 | Meta | 5c |
1.9.7. Pas de Gairou 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.799121, 6.254633
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Diedro Ketchup | 6b+ | ||||
2 | Fingers Paradise | 8a | ||||
3 | Sensuelle et sans Suite | 7b | ||||
4 | Mickey Maousse | 7a | ||||
5 | Le Poinconneur des Lilas | 7c+ |
1.9.8. La Ramirole 71 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.734702, 6.360033
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | L’antidote | 7c+ | 6 | |||
2 | ? | 7c | ||||
3 | La voie du Dom | 6c | ||||
4 | Débilis | 7b+ | ||||
5 | ★★ Les salades de l’apocalypse | 7a | 2 | |||
6 | Panda dub | 6c+ | 2 | |||
7 | L’esthète de lard | 8a | ||||
8 |
★★★ Ultime démence
P3-P4 : onsighted by Charlotte Durif in 2009. | 8a | 6 | |||
9 | Les mollets immolés | 8b | 2 | |||
10 | La pas si sage femme | 8c | ||||
11 |
★★★ Pajarito / Parejito
Set: Antonin Rhodes FFA: Sébastien Bouin, 30 Jul 2014 | 9a | 40m, 2 | |||
12 | Et Dieu créa la flamme... | 8a+ | ||||
13 | ★★★ Mister Benjoin | 8b | ||||
14 | ★★★ Twin Power | 8b+ | ||||
15 | Patxi chulo | 8b+ | ||||
16 |
Basse Température
Onsighted by Charlotte Durif (2009). | 8b | ||||
17 | ★★★ Papy ké devers | 7c+ | 4 | |||
18 | United Colors of Verdon | 8b | ||||
19 | Les cavaliers de la peau pas lisse | 9a | ||||
20 | La Fistinière | 7b+ | ||||
21 | Emisphère nord | 7b+ | ||||
22 | Le Chris orgasmique | 7b | ||||
23 | Wind orgasmique | 7b+ | ||||
24 | Wind guru | 7c | ||||
25 | La tête de morve | 7c | ||||
26 | ★★ Le clocheton du chicon | 7a+ | ||||
27 | Rhodes et l’eau | 8a+ | ||||
28 | Louis Attaque | 8a | ||||
29 |
★★★ La Ramirole
Set: Bruno Clément | 8b | 150m, 5 | |||
30 |
Épique pocket
Louis Attaque (P1) + La Ramirole (P2) | 8a+ | 2 | |||
31 | La Première Dame | 8c+ | ||||
32 | ★★ Pequeña | 7c+ | ||||
33 |
L’homme demain
This route is made of two parts:
Seb has said that this was harder than "Thor's Hammer" which is why he is suggesting 9a+. Set: Antonin Rhodes FA: Sébastien Bouin, 27 Aug 2016 | 9a/a+ | 50m | |||
34 |
A muerte Bilou
Set: Antonin Rhodes FFA: Sébastien Bouin, 29 Aug 2015 | 9a | 50m, 2 | |||
35 | Dialogue de lourd | 8c+ | ||||
36 |
★★★ Promotion canne à pêche
Set: Antonin Rhodes FA: Sébastien Bouin, 2011 | 9a | 50m | |||
37 |
Spanish Caravane
Start as Bohemian symphony and finish as Promotion canne à pêche. Set: Antonin Rhodes FA: Carole Palmier, 9 Aug 2015 | 8c | 50m | |||
38 |
La Rage d’Adam / Adam's Rage
An 8c section (the "approach walk") is followed by an almost blank 50° overhanging sequence that gave the route its name ("Adam's rage" because Adam Ondra came to try but could not decipher the beta). The boulder problem is then followed by an easier 8b . It took 5 years, on and off, for Seb to free the route. This first ascent comes just a few months after Seb repeated Move (Flatanger), another 9b/+. Checkout the video of his journey to climb this route. Set: Antonin Rhodes FFA: Sébastien Bouin, 5 Sep 2019 | 9b/b+ | ||||
39 | Bohemian Symphony | 8b | ||||
40 |
Bohemian Symphony Extension
FA: Sébastien Bouin, 27 Jul 2020 | 8c | ||||
41 | If you want | 8a+ | ||||
42 | L’esthète dans le fion | 8c | ||||
43 | Le feu occulte | 8b+ | ||||
44 | L’enculeur de moches | 8c | ||||
45 | La flûte en chantier | 8c+ | ||||
46 | ★★★ Les suceurs de médailles | 8a | ||||
47 | Émie serre la pince | 8a+ | ||||
48 | La guerre des paires | 8a | ||||
49 | Brouillon de culture | 7b+ | ||||
50 | Depeche Rhodes | 7c+ | 2 | |||
51 | ★ Lait chaud de la mamie molle | 7b | ||||
52 | Freyzer Söze | 8b+ | ||||
53 | L’Arnoldisable | 8b+ | 2 | |||
54 |
Une chatte brûlante sous un toit
Depeche Rhodes + Freyzer Söze + L’Arnoldisable | 8b+ | 4 | |||
55 | Tout travail mérite sa bière | 8b | ||||
56 | Pain killer | 7c+ | ||||
57 | Le dos thaïlandais | 7c | 2 | |||
58 |
La côte d’usure
A 60m "king line" on an overhanging prow above 150m of air. Seb bolted the route in 2009, in a bottom up effort that took him three days to complete. Over the following years, Seb regularly came back to try the route but it soon became obvious that its difficulty was out of reach. He finally sent his project in 2008, grading it 9a+ (solid). History video Set: Sébastien Bouin, 2009 FA: Sébastien Bouin, 23 Sep 2018 | 9a+ | 60m | |||
59 | Kiss Kiss Gang Bang | 8b+ | 6 | |||
60 | Kiss Kiss Bang Bang | 8b | ||||
61 |
Hosanna
One of the hardest multi-pitch lines in France. Set: Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, 2012 FA: Cédric Lachat, 20 Oct 2016 | 8c | 160m, 5 | |||
62 | Little Girl Blue | 8a+ | ||||
63 | La coccinelle trompe l’œil | 8b | ||||
64 | Burne Out | 8b+ | ||||
65 | Red flag | 8a | 2 | |||
66 |
Red tag
Set: Christophe Louis & Elie Morieux FA: Sébastien Bouin | 8b | 3 | |||
67 | Arme de destruction massive | 8a+ | ||||
68 | Arme de création massive | 8a | ||||
69 | Red tag total | 8b+ | 3 | |||
70 |
La traînée rousse
Set: Antonin Rhodes FA: Sébastien Bouin, 5 Aug 2020 | 8c/c+ | ||||
71 |
DNA
Set: Sébastien Bouin, 2019 FA: Sébastien Bouin, 29 Apr 2022 | 9c |
1.9.9. Col d'Illoire 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.774582, 6.254912
approach
Park at:
43.774033,6.256313 Cross the Street and go to
43.774255,6.256047 Than go to
43.774580,6.255024 (Col d'Illoire) Or go to
43.774571,6.256044 (Fraluc)
1.9.9.1. Fraluc 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.774597, 6.255472
approach
Park at:
43.774033,6.256313 Cross the Street and go to
43.774255,6.256047 Than go to
43.774580,6.255024 (Col d'Illoire) Or go to
43.774571,6.256044 (Fraluc)
1.9.9.2. Flamme Noire 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
description
Fun and easy crag for beginners, with a north-east and north-west wall, so lots of shade.
approach
Navigating to the parking Col d'Illoire, going a little further up the road, you can park on the outside of a wide, spacious corner. From there, find your way down through a fairly steep descent. On your left is the north-east wall, on your right the north-west one.
1.9.10. Vallon d'Estay 45 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.757712, 6.234175
1.9.10.1. La Chaise Haute 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.10.2. Gavade 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.10.3. Classes Uniques 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.10.4. Big Bosse 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.10.5. Graine de Soleil 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
1.9.11. Point Sublime 93 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.788009, 6.394033
1.9.11.1. Duc-Encastel 52 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.785510, 6.395559
1.9.11.2. Baume aux Couillons 29 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Relatively new crag, Topo was released in Grimper magazine June 2019
approach
Parking at the couloir samson carpark. Go through the first part of the tunnel and take down the way via ferrata or rappel through the window. Take the zipwire to the other side and climb your way further to the landside (few small jumps necessary) or balance yourself over a big tree; then continue a path up.
1.9.11.3. Grotte du dragon 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.9.12. Tom et Je Ris 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.779347, 6.394915
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Je vous salue Bari | 7c | 130m, 6 | |||
2 |
★★★ Tom et Je Ris
Information on finding the rappel: new and correct gps coordinates should be (43.7803176, 6.3951031). As of spring 2021, follow big hip-height cairns at the end when searching for the rappel chain. There are other possible rappel bolts that are misleading. | 8b+ | 60m |
1.9.13. Estellié 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 43.742948, 6.338769
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pilier gauche du fauteuil | 6b+ | 250m, 5 | |||
2 | Dièdre de l'oursinade | 6c | 250m | |||
3 | ★★★ Tandem pour une évidence | 6c+ | 250m | |||
4 |
★★★ Petra Aliena
Unterhaltsame, mittelschwere Kletterei, die für den Hochsommer optimal nordseitig ausgerichtet. Set: Pascal Faudou, 2014 | 6b+ | 170m, 6 | |||
5 |
★★★ Arbre magique de rêve / Traumzauberbaum
Very divers climbing. Slabby at the begin and at the end and steep in the middl. The single pitches are: 7a+, 7b+, 7c, 8a, 8a+, 7a Shade almost all day. More information and pictures at: http://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/2022/06/verdon-arbre-magique-de-reve.html?m=1 FA: 14 May 2022 | 8a+ | 210m, 6, 70 | |||
6 |
Enigma
Set: Pascal Faudou, 2006 | 7a | 260m, 6 |
1.9.14. Pillier Mague 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Golden Shower
Set: Stefan Glowacz | 8b+ | 4 | |||
2 |
★★★ Le rateau d'argent
https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/france/le-verdon/lestellie/le-rateau-dargent/ FA: Ysabelle Pirioux, Alexandre Pierre & Vertical Pirate, 4 Jun 2020 | 7a | 250m, 10, 3 |
1.10. Fayet 0 routes in Crag
1.11. Col d'Ayen 42 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.769431, 6.319985
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le Rapala | 7b | 20m | |||
2 | Le Corbeau et le Rosbeef | 7a | 25m | |||
3 | Stalagbitroute | 7b | 15m | |||
4 | L'Anglais Sans Corde | 8a | 15m | |||
5 | La Fesse du Mammouth | 8b | 25m | |||
6 | Tarzan | 6b+ | 15m | |||
7 | ★ Gatina | 5c | 15m | |||
8 | L'Alongeuns | 6a | 15m | |||
9 | ★★ Tronce de Conque | 6b | 15m | |||
10 | Blackie | 4b | 15m | |||
11 |
★★ Neurotox-six
FA: 1985 | 6c+ | 15m | |||
12 | ★★ Quick Piss | 6a | 15m | |||
13 | Wedge | 4c | 15m | |||
14 | ★★ Chien de Plomb | 6a | 20m | |||
15 | Reemon | 5c | 20m | |||
16 | Gaffe au Bloc | 5c | 25m | |||
17 | Atilla | 5c | 25m | |||
18 | ★ Smooth Operator | 6b | 25m | |||
19 | Codis Faux | 5c | 25m | |||
20 | ★★ Voie u Gueu | 5b | 25m | |||
21 | ★ Grodej | 5b | ||||
22 | ★ Fox Fodder | 5b | ||||
23 | ★★ Directe Chien | 6c | 15m | |||
24 | Beau Dard | 5b | 20m | |||
25 | Maya | 5b | 15m | |||
26 | Rio | 3b | 15m | |||
27 | ★ Catastrophe | 5b | 15m | |||
28 | Sade | 5b | 15m | |||
29 | Petitedej | 6a | 15m | |||
30 | L'Amitie Internationale | 6a+ | 15m | |||
31 | Tigrognasse | 6a | 15m | |||
32 | Vicious | 6b | 15m | |||
33 | L'Oeil Perdu | 6c | 15m | |||
34 | N'A Qu'un Oeil | 6c | 15m | |||
35 | Sauvage | 4b | 15m | |||
36 | Angos | 6a | 15m | |||
37 | Big Jim | 6a | 15m | |||
38 | Poulpe | 4b | 15m | |||
39 | Anteprima | 6a | 15m | |||
40 | Prima | 5b | 10m | |||
41 | Seconda | 3c | 10m | |||
42 | Terza | 3b | 10m |
1.12. Mirroir du fou 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.752821, 6.364990
description
Petit falaises de 35m de haute
approach
Sur la route D23 des crêtes à 11,5 km de La Palud. Au belvédère de Guègues dans le première parking jusque avant le tunnel.
1.12.1. Gauche du parking 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
approach
Secteur à gauche du prémier parking avant le tunnel vers La Belvédère de Guègues
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Gabrielle
FA: 1999 | 6c | 20m | |||
2 |
Rond de chaussettes
FA: P.Bestagno, 1982 | 6c | 20m | |||
3 |
Voie Fawcett
Voie déséquipée FA: R.Fawcett, 1981 | 7a+ | 30m | |||
4 |
★★ Une ténébreuse affaire
FA: J-M. Troussier, 1981 | 7a | 30m | |||
5 |
★★★ La dulf du fou
FA: P.Tardieu, 1981 | 6a | 40m | |||
6 |
Pirouette enchantée
FA: S.Troussier, 1981 | 6c+ | 45m | |||
7 |
★★★ Le miroir du fou
Start as for La dulf du fou then head right at the 3rd bolt, following the line of hangers. The first pitch has a thin and tricky traverse. Can be done as one pitch but ripe drag is an issue. 2nd pitch is 6b. Can lower off an 80m rope. FA: J.Perrier, 1979 | 7a | 45m, 2 | |||
8 |
Grain de folie
FA: J-M. Troussier, 1982 | 6c | 20m | |||
9 | Brouette en chantier | 8b+ | 20m | |||
10 | Un blocage municipal | 8 | 25m |
1.12.2. Secteur droite en haut de l'échelle 10 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.751914, 6.365100
description
Secteur droite en haut de l'échelle
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Ça manque d'indice inspecteur
Prémiere voie de gauche | 6c | 20m | |||||
2 | ★ Le fou d'artifice | 6c | 30m | |||||
3 | ★★ Saluts les berlots | 7a+ | 15m | |||||
4 | ★★ Les pied de Jean-Christophe | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
5 | ★ Y'a pas de pet | 6a+ | 35m | |||||
6 | ★★ La dalle du clou qui rend fou | 5b+ | 35m | |||||
7 | ★★ Un autre fou - sans nom | 5b+ | 35m | |||||
8 | ★★ Le fou de l'extrême droite | 6b | 35m | |||||
9 |
★★★ ?
FA: G.Sauget | 5c | ||||||
10 |
★★ ?
FA: G.Sauget | 6a | ||||||
|
1.12.3. Septième Saut 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.754089, 6.364850
summary
The secteur superieur of this area was opened in the eighties and is quite hard, mostly grade 7. A second addition was added later with mostly grade 6
approach
On the D23 route des crêtes park on the top hairpin before the first tunnel. From there follow the path with the cairns.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Voila les Cakes de Plages
FA: 1984 | 7c | ||||
2 |
Sale Temps pour les Caves
Set: 1983 | 7c+ | ||||
3 |
Fissure du Bel Inconnu
Set: 1983 | 6c | ||||
4 |
Super Jane
Set: 1983 | 6c+ | ||||
5 |
N'en Jetez plus
Set: 1983 | 7a+ | ||||
6 |
Septième Saut
Set: 1983 | 7b+ | ||||
7 |
Igor Stravinski
Set: 1983 | 7b | ||||
8 |
Grise Alice
Set: 2004 | 6c | ||||
9 |
Gris d'Automne
Set: 2004 | 7a | ||||
10 |
Agriable
Set: 2004 | 7a+ | ||||
11 |
?
Set: 2004 | 6b+ | ||||
12 |
Grigri
Set: 2004 | 6a+ | ||||
13 |
Petit Gris
Set: 2004 | 5c+ | ||||
14 |
Aigris
Set: 2004 | 5c+ | ||||
15 |
Gribouillage
Set: 2004 | 6b+ | ||||
16 |
Sagripant
Set: 2004 | 6b+ |
1.13. Valaute Gauche 29 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.785627, 6.392155
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Observer c'est Perturber
FA: B. Enjalric, 1992 | 3c | 10m | |||
2 | ★ Partition | 6a+ | 20m | |||
3 |
★★ Le Tiques du Grimpuer
FA: F. Planchon, 1990 | 4c | 10m | |||
4 | Unknown | 5b | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Comme ca m'enerve | 5a | 20m | |||
6 | Sous un soleil de feu | 5a | ||||
7 |
★★ Chantal
FA: D. Ressot, 1990 | 5b | 18m | |||
8 | ★ Cecile | 6a | 20m | |||
9 |
★ Suzy Sunshine
FA: 1999 | 7a | 10m | |||
10 |
★★ Regain
FA: M. Bousquet, 1990 | 5c+ | 20m | |||
11 | ★★ Valaute Express | 5c | 30m | |||
12 | ★ Unamed | 5b | 20m | |||
13 |
★★ Matinee d'Ivresse
FA: J.-J. Lombardi, 1990 | 5c | 20m | |||
14 | ★★ Come Back | 6b+ | 20m | |||
15 | ★ Terre Promise | 6a+ | 20m | |||
16 | Arc en Ciel | 6a | 20m | |||
17 | Rustine a la Tonne | 6a+ | 25m | |||
18 | Lesisbeplus | 6b+ | 25m | |||
19 | Desyris | 6b | 25m | |||
20 | ★★★ La Cite qui Reve | 6c+ | 25m | |||
21 | Les pieds nickeles | 4b | 2 | |||
22 | Damocles | 4b | 2 | |||
23 | Touche pas aux arbres | 5b | 2 | |||
24 | Carmen cru | 5b | ||||
25 | Laurel et hardy | 5c | 2 | |||
26 | Tender violette | 5b | 2 | |||
27 | Salamandre | 5b | 2 | |||
28 | Sorania | 6b | 2 | |||
29 | La daube a papi | 6a | 2 |
1.14. Free Tibet 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 43.739818, 6.351013
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Redressement Discal
Lots of traverses on this route. Well bolt-protected. Nice slabs. Set: P. Faudou, 2014 | 6b | 130m, 6, 14 | |||
2 |
★★★ Crise de Gouttes
Set: Pascal Faudou, 2010 | 6b+ | 6 | |||
3 |
★★ Free Tibet
Set: Saval, M.Fanneau & X. Saval, 2000 | 6a+ | 120m, 6 | |||
4 |
Frisco
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1987 | 5b | 100m, 5 | |||
5 |
Pipes Chaudes et Sueurs Froides
FA: S. Aldinger, 2004 | 7b+ | 50m, 18 | |||
6 |
Spits Show et Sueurs Froides
FA: J. Giral & M. Ricard, 1984 | 6b | 100m, 4 | |||
7 |
Tiotieuma
FA: B. Gorgeon, Y. Maitrejean & B. Vuilemin, 1989 | 6b A1 | 100m, 4 | |||
8 |
Le Crackenard
Set: Pascal Faudou, Sep 2022 | 6c+ | 4 | |||
9 |
★★★ Des Trous de Première Classe
Set: Pascal Faudou, 2010 | 6b+ | 4 | |||
10 |
Monier
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1987 | 6a | 100m, 4 |
1.15. Le bunker 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.793417, 6.401683
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bunker de pierre | 8a | ||||
2 | Projet | |||||
3 | Bunker tendre | 7c | ||||
4 | Bunker fissuré | 6a+ | 10m |
1.16. Teens 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.788010, 6.407660
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le Teen agé | 7c | ||||
2 | Les Clément teens | 8a | ||||
3 | Teenteen et milou | 7c+ | ||||
4 | Tintin chez les teens | 7b+ | ||||
5 | Les lapins creteens | 7b+ | ||||
6 | L'été teens | 8b | ||||
7 | La chapelle sixteen | 7c+/8a | ||||
8 | Les teens | 7b | ||||
9 | Tarteen au nutella | 6c | ||||
10 | Teenaya | 6c+ | ||||
11 | Five teen | 6b |
1.17. La Tête de singe 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.790780, 6.406983
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le Groin de Beauté | 8a | ||||
2 | Parle à Monkey | 6a | 100m, 6 |
1.18. Moustiers 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 43.851845, 6.248022
summary
Some crags around Moustiers
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Thème Astral
FA: Olivier Chalandie & Vertical Pirate, 3 Sep 2018 | 6a+ | 150m, 5 |