Ascents in Weißmain-Alb having Beta

Gem in the grade

Man muss links bleiben und rechts klinken - direkt über die Haken zu klettern ist schwer. Oben Brösel..

Im mittleren Teil der Route geht eine andere Route nach rechts ab. Geradeaus nach oben fühlt sich wie die natürliche Linie an und ist auf keinen Fall schwerer als 5. Die Route wird nach oben hin eher leichter.

Lockeres Gestein im oberen Teil.

Easy start with mostly big holds. Still the route is always vertical or overhanging, on top there's a harder section at the bulge. Quite hard for 6+. No one who's limit is around that grade should lead that route.

Also pretty cool pocket climbing, never too easy. Pumpy. Had to rest once.

This one was a lot easier and relaxing than JoJo (7+). Smooth homogenous pocket climbing.

Single hard section at the bulge, from small crimps into a huge jug. Saw some guys climbing it and they left the draws. Lucky flash go, boulder moves are usually not my favorite.

Severe power endurance section after 2/3rd of the route. There are actually enough handholds, but the non existing footholds make the moves super challenging. Could only climb the hardest section once with a number of high risk moves, didn't try a second time.

Cleaned the route in toprope, never too hard. The start actually is the hardest. Nice line, sometimes pretty distanced bolting and people climb not too close to the bolts.

Was ne geile route

Sehr harte Boulderstelle, bis dahin schöne Bewegungen!

Nicht geschenkt

Good line along the diagonal crack that levels out and ends in a ledge, finishing via juggy pockets to the top.

Nice starting variant along the obvious crack, nuts are a must.

Climbed the original line this time, starting like Mäuselkante, then going left around the arête and up to the ledge.

The start is actually 3 m to the right of the arête, the red arrow is still faintly visible. Long, but relaxed traverse below the big roof. A lot of wet patches today, which made the second half of the first pitch interesting. There are some good pockets, though, especially around the sharper part of the arête. The second pitch is a walk to the finish of Talweg and up this to the summit. #jahreserste2024

Originally climbed with only one bolt in the first pitch, which is astonishing. The second pitch is only recommended for enthusiasts; the ringed bolt directly after the belay is followed up with only three pitons and a good tree. Powerful over the bulge, then grassy to the headwall, which is actually quite nice and not too intimidating despite the old pegs.

This was actually the original start of Kulmbacher Weg, maybe due to vegetation at the base of the dihedral? Starting directly from below the first bolt is probably possible, but stupid.

The south-west chimney isn't entirely trivial. From the plateau it's enjoyable wall climbing along the easiest line.

Climbed only the upper part of this, after "Südverschneidung Einstiegsvariante". Selling this route as a "direct variant" of KHG is rather silly, it's a direct finish for the dihedral if anything. KHG goes relatively straight up from the start, it doesn't get any more direct. I don't know if the traverse from KHG to the left is the crux of the route, but the upper part is certainly not harder than 6+.

Schmerzhaft...

Heute hat die power gereicht

Knackiger Boulder an kleinen Griffen.

Knieklemmer in der Schlüsselstelle hilft

Beautiful, elegant climbing up the black arête. The right-hand finish is the obvious choice nowadays, and spectacular, too.

Easy start to a ledge, then a little awkward up onto the slab, back to the left (careful, loose rock) and up the finishing slab, which is nice.

Good wall climbing, even though the rock quality doesn't look too promising from the ground. Quite the runout towards the top, and it's not too easy there!

Forgotten route, probably hasn't been done in ages. The vegetation is thick. It's a shame, because the climbing isn't that bad.

Still amazing. However, next time I will probably climb it the original way, traversing in from around the corner. The start is so awfully chossy.

Oben ist nicht alles fest.

Nicht einfach zu lesen.

Most people think this is harder, and it probably is because they're trying to climb straight up in the lower part. It's important to keep quite low and traverse to the right onto the actual dull arête instead. Still a bit athletic in the upper part.

Original variant with hard traverse to the left in the upper part. #jahreserste2024

Funny that I hadn't done this before. The obvious line. Good climb, a bit short of course.

#jahreserste2024

Tough boulder problem. Didn't find the invisible crimp first go, but even then it felt hard. Maybe there's yet another trick. The book was too wet to write an entry. I'll have to bring one of the stone books next time.

Viele Pockets und Ausstieg klatschnass

Alle züge gemacht. Mehr Ausdauer notwendig