Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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6- A1 | Hermann Buhl Gedenkweg Linkup Schuhmacher Gedenkweg - with Harald | 18m, 13 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 27th Oct 2023 | |||||
Aid pitch through the roof (from the anchor of Halber Hermann), set up hanging belay in the original position due to rope drag. Short pitch to the book case, then up over the bulge to the place where Schuhmacher comes in from the left. The top part was wet, so I decided to finish the Schuhmacher route.
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8- |
★★ Take Five
1
7-
20m
2
7
15m
3
6+
15m
4
5
10m
5
8-
20m
| 80m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | ||||
7+ A0 |
★ Rechter Weg
- with
Harald
| 30m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 29th Jul 2022 | ||||
Great first pitch in sublime rock. Knew the dihedral already from "Verbindungsweg". The traverse from the big rock tunnel to the right is also beautiful and easy. Second pitch starts off with tough boulder moves away from the ledge. Doesn't get much easier from there, but the rock is good and the protection is also fine (there's even a little tree to wrap a sling around in addition to the Bühler bolts and pegs). I aided a few sections, then retreated at the Bühler bolt on the next little ledge, since it was raining and the top part is chossy and was already quite wet. I'll gladly come back to finish the second pitch (and freely, too!).
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7 |
★ Kleine Reise (Nicht ohne meinen Partner!)
1
6+
30m
2
7
17m
| 47m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 19th Jul 2016 | ||||
7 | ★ Neuer Che Guevara Gedenkweg - with Christoph Bernkopf | 50m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | |||||
My favorite multi-pitch in Frankenjura so far. Really good blend of pumpy, pockety, Franken-clibing, some alpine traversing, a nice chimney section, comfortable belays, and a cruise to the finish. Looking forward to attempting "Take Five" on the next time through.
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7- |
★★ Robert Lukas Gedenkweg
- with
Maxi
1
6+
28m
2
7-
10m
| 38m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | ||||
Überraschend schwerer Einzelzug in der 6+. Die zweite Länge ist kurz, aber bietet eine sehr lustige Querung an dünnen Schuppen. Ausgesetzte semi alpine Kletterei über dem Wald. Echt cool.
Wenn man ein paar Stopper hat könnte man den Rest auch gut absichern. |
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6+ |
★ R7
- with
Markus Benning
| 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 2nd Mar 2022 | ||||
Alpine adventure climbing with two traverses and a good amount of choss. Crux of the first pitch is right at the second bolt, the rest is way easier. The second pitch is a bit more homogeneous. The traverse to the anchor, where the rock quality is noticeably better, is quite good. Said anchor, however, is a lower-off-only "sow's tail", which doesn't make any sense in such a route …
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6- |
★ Linker Weg
1
6-
45m
2
5
3
5+
17
| 62m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 12th Jul 2018 | ||||
6- |
Linke Südwand (Linke Südwand P1)
- with
Daniel
1
6-
20m
| 20m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 21st Sep 2019 | |||||
Couldn't make out the bolts from the ground so I trusted the topo in the Schwertner book where this is drawn as a single pitch with "high first bolt". Ridiculous. Put one nut in half-way up to the ledge, then realised at the "first bolt" that the traverse is a separate pitch and it's impossible to do it without bringing up a second, so I lowered from there.
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8- |
★★ Aschenbrenner Gedenkweg
- with
Harald
| 35m, 11 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Feb 2021 | ||||
Really alpine undertaking. Up a thin layback flake to a good bolt, then tough traverse to the left (keep low!) via a peg to a brittle slab (bigger cam). Up the slab via two bolts below the roof. The traverse to the left below the roof is the nicest part of the whole route, really enjoyable in beautiful rock, then around the corner and up the dihedral to the next roof. The hardest part is getting from the last bolt around the corner again to the belay, via slopers, some of which were wet. I tried a few times, got pumped quite hard, and the rope always snagged, so I couldn't easily pull up rope to clip the peg that was probably used as the anchor back in the day. In the end, I pulled on the carabiner to haul up rope. Not entirely satisfied, but I climbed everything freely, so still counting it. Probably I'll come back again, anyway, because there was no pencil for the book. The start of pitch 2 is actually the hardest part, very powerful layback moves on slopy holds. Took me a few attempts. The rest of the route is comparatively easy, but you should maybe back up the old rusty pegs with some gear. Still quite burly along the crack dihedral. Thorn bush before the exit, too.
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11- 11- to 11 | Masters of the Universe | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 4th Apr 2017 | ||||||
11- | Solitary Man | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 1st Oct 2015 | ||||||
first Onsight of an 8c in Fränkischen Schweiz
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10 10+ | One Whore’s Town | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 18th Sep 2021 | ||||||
10/10+
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11- 10+/11- | In the Middle of Nowhere | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 2nd Jul 2017 | |||||
10 10/10+ | ★★ Linie 1 | 17m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 30th Aug 2009 | |||||
10 | Monstermagnet | 18m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 7th Oct 2018 | |||||
10+ 10/10+ | Fairy Ultra | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 7th Oct 2018 | |||||
10 | Neun Leben | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 3rd Sep 2005 | |||||
10 | Stoney Road | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 16th Jul 2005 | ||||||
8b 10 | Orbit | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 28th Sep 2015 | ||||||
10 | Dragon | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 28th Nov 2016 | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Triebwerke | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 17th Oct 2020 | |||||
10 | ★★★ Riesenslalom Direkt | 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 15th May 2021 | |||||
10- 10-/10 | Don Oelze | 17m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 3rd Jul 2017 | |||||
10- | ★★★ XXL | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 27th Jul 2005 | |||||
10 10-/10 | ★★ Grandmaster Flash | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 26th May 2007 | ||||||
10- | Sunrise Avenue | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 4th May 2008 | ||||||
10- | Red Skies over Paradise | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 12th Aug 2005 | |||||
10- | ★★★ SMS | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 1st May 2004 | ||||||
10- | Snatch Away | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 21st May 2005 | ||||||
10- | Freestyle | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 12th Oct 2008 | ||||||
10- | Tattergreis | 20m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 28th Oct 2009 | |||||
10- | Red-handed | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 8th Jun 2008 | ||||||
10- | Thriller | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 11th Oct 2008 | ||||||
10- | ★ Flex Control | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 8th Jun 2008 | ||||||
10- | ★★★ Blow Job | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 30th Apr 2004 | ||||||
10- | ★★ Out of Berlin | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 19th Jul 2003 | |||||
10- | ★★★ Desperado | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 22nd Aug 2004 | |||||
10- | Monkey Business | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 27th Aug 2006 | ||||||
10- | ★★★ Slimline | 13m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 11th May 2003 | |||||
10- | Kap der Angst | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 30th Sep 2007 | ||||||
10- | ★★ A Chorus Line | 17m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 3rd Jul 2017 | |||||
10- 10- to 10 | Wallfahrt | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 3rd Sep 2005 | ||||||
10- | ★★★ Polymorphie | 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 11th Aug 2007 | |||||
10- | ★★ A Chorus Line (Chorus Line) | 17m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 30th Aug 2009 | |||||
10- | ★★★ Slimline | 13m | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 5th Jun 2017 | |||||
8a+ 10- | ★★★ Fingerfood | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 27th Sep 2007 | ||||||
8a 10- | Reloaded | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 8th Jun 2008 | ||||||
10- | ★★★ Amphibientraverse | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th Aug 2015 | ||||
10- | ★★★ Amphibientraverse | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 17th Sep 2020 | |||||
10- | ★★★ Blow Job | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 20th May 2001 | ||||||
10- | ★★★ Center Court | 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 20th May 2001 | |||||
10- | Mata Hari | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 2nd Jul 2017 | ||||||
10- | ★★★ Simon | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | 1992 | |||||
10- | ★★★ XXL | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Jun 2020 | ||||
Amazingly good moves through this overhanging corner with two rather obvious bouldery sections! Low expectations made me flew up this beauty with perfect flow; soo happy:)
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10- | ★★★ Letzte Ausfahrt Bruck | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Jun 2020 | ||||
Perfect mindset after onsighting the neighbouring lines:) got the boulder through the slopy crack in the end just perfect! Soo good but a few soaked holds
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10- | ★★★ Blow Job | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 29th May 2020 | |||||
Never expected that because I was locking at the holds and simply couldn't even imagine how I'll get off the ground... did it with the mono and almost fell afterwards! Nice bouldery line:)
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10- | ★★★ SMS | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 26th Jun 2020 | |||||
Maybe the sweaty 27 degrees lowered the expectations but I still almost slipped out of every pocket in the pretty long crux sequence and luckily found the right beta for the final crack! Super happy to have onsighted this endurance beauty:)
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10- | ★★★ Desperado | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 22nd Jun 2020 | ||||
Soo good, deserves the 3 stars and the popularity! Getting harder the higher you get with the crux directly before the chains; super happy that I could keep my mind calm especially during my shocking footslip on the last move and hanging with only one arm in the topjug definitely brought up even more adrenalin and happiness for sure:)
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8a | Ragnarök | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 19th Sep 2021 | ||||||
10- | ★★★ Hellboy | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 6th Jul 2020 | |||||
23 9+ | Blutspur | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 10th Sep 2011 | ||||||
8a 9+/10- | ★★★ L.A. Crash | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 1st Apr 2018 | |||||
10- 9+/10- | ★★ Glaspatronenmatch | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 21st Sep 2003 | |||||
9+ | ★★ Masochist | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 26th May 2007 | ||||||
9+ | ★★ Anti-Blockier-System | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 11th Aug 2007 | ||||||
10- 9+/10- | ★★ Antigravitation | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 12th Aug 2007 | |||||
9+ 9+/10- | ★★★ Das Dach | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 26th Oct 2013 | ||||||
9+ | Riot Act | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 17th May 2009 | ||||||
10- 9+/10- | ★★★ L'eau rage | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 12th Aug 2005 | ||||||
9+ | Hooligan | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 11th Aug 2007 | |||||
9+ | Wattepuper | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 16th Jul 2007 | ||||||
9+ | ★★ Loveparade | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 8th May 2003 | ||||||
9+ | Big Boss | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 3rd Sep 2005 | |||||
10- 9+/10- | 40 Sekunden Countdown | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 30th Sep 2005 | |||||
10- 9+/10- | Testarossa | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 11th Aug 2007 | ||||||
9+ | Milchstraße (Milchstrasse) | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 28th Sep 2015 | ||||||
9+ | ★★ Armed Response | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 17th May 2009 | |||||
9+ | ★★★ Ludwag | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 23rd Sep 2007 | ||||||
9+ | Johnny Controletti (Johny Controletti) | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 3rd May 2008 | ||||||
10- 9+/10- | ★ Schnakenperiode (Schnagen Periode) | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 16th Jul 2007 | |||||
9+ | ★★★ The Flow | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 23rd Sep 2007 | ||||||
8a 9+/10- | Synergie | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 23rd Jul 2006 | ||||||
9+ | ★★★ Nimue mit Hänsel (nimué) | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 10th Aug 2011 | |||||
9+ | ★★★ The Flow | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Jun 2015 | |||||
9+ | ★★ Loveparade | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 13th Jun 2020 | ||||||
9+ | ★★★ Hitch-Hike the Plane | 25m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 27th Jun 2011 | |||||
9+ | ★★★ Hitch-Hike the Plane | 25m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Jul 2018 | ||||
9+ | ★★★ Nimue mit Hänsel (Nimué mit Hänsel) | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Sep 2018 | |||||
9+ | ★★ Gebrüder-Seidel-Route | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Oct 2018 | |||||
9 9+ | ★ Eisenfinger | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 10th Oct 2018 | ||||
9+ | ★★ 111s | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 19th Oct 2020 | ||||||
9+ | ★★★ Hitch-Hike the Plane | 25m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 20th May 2001 | |||||
9+ | ★★★ Gladiator | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 17th Sep 2020 | ||||
This perfect chimney from the middle on is definitely the most fun part of this hidden kingline! Missed all this 3D climbing during the pasg month in Céüse quite a lot;) steep athletic crux represents the name perfectly
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9+ 9+/10- | ★★★ Everdry | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 12th Jun 2020 | |||||
Lots of varied and beautiful tricky moves from the bottom to the top of this vertical slab but the hardest move is the very last one directly in front of the chains! Thx to everyone for cheering me up:)
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9+ | ★★★ The Shield | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Feb 2021 | |||||
Superb classic! Not that hard if you find all the hidden pockets:)
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9+ | ★★★ Crusty | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | |||||
Quite a close battle through the bouldery lower part!
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9+ 9+/10- | ★★★ L'eau rage | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 22nd May 2020 | |||||
Endlich mol ned den onsight versemmelt;) geile abwechslungsreiche querung bei ders heißt dran bleibn bis zum schluss!
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9+ | ★★★ Zock | 22m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 17th Jun 2020 | ||||
Hamma Tour, vui besser als Stalingrad! Ois dabei vor allem fieser Seitgriffzangenzug ganz zum Schluss;)
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9+ | ★★★ Totenbrett | 28m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Jun 2020 | ||||
Dancing up this slab pretty relaxed;) felt easier than the 7b's here but awesome climbing anyway!
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