Ascents in Winterseite

A unique experience. After you've gained a few meters via the dihedral deeply below the roof, you're supposed to crawl to the right on a narrow ledge that gets narrower and narrower. The first old ring is placed exactly where it gets too narrow to actually move forward and it doesn't look as if it would hold a fall any more, so I placed a nut before that (in mediocre rock tbh). Shoved myself as far towards the ring as I could. My right foot was already dangling off the ledge and I was trying to somehow pull it up to a good foothold with my right hand, which kind of worked, so I could hold on to a sloper past the ring when I felt my body slowly slipping off the ledge. I had to think fast and hold on to the slopers as good as I could, waited for the body to slip off and aimed for a good foothold on the right to catch the swing. This mysteriously worked and after two more moves I reached the good crack at the edge of the roof and the first Bühler bolt. From there it's quite athletic climbing up to the ledge above the roof. Hip flexibility is a massive help here. The upper part is then much easier and straightforward.

A great line, visually, just a long traverse along a thin "handrail" ledge below a roof. Unfortunately, there are lots of loose bits, it's always dusty because nobody climbs it, and the book at the belay is also gone. The first 10 or so meters of the traverse are manageable, then suddenly the footholds disappear. There's one section where you can jam your hand into the back of the narrow ledge, but it feels like you're jamming between sand and a bowl of cornflakes, material is chipping away with each readjustment of the hand. The next 2 meters are tough as hell and I only barely made it by hooking with the left foot onto the ledge and crossing over extremely far to a brittle jug.

Actually quite good. Enjoyable double crack line, then to the right onto a ledge (first anchor, you can also stop here already) and up the dihedral to the big platform with another anchor.

Described in some guidebooks as "unworthwhile finish variant to Frankenländer Schild", but actually, it's older than the latter and also reachable from the east which was the original start. Together with the start of "Frankenländer Schild", it results in a beautiful route that can teach you a lesson or two in crack climbing. But the top part in itself is already nice as well, and probably a little easier than 6.

For some reason I thought this was supposed to be 9 or harder, so when I read that it was only 8 I had to hop on it. Crux is to get out under the little bulge in the middle. I solved it by going to the left a bit first, then stepping onto the bulge whilst in a finger lock with my left hand. Quite tricky! The runout to the bolt above that is perfectly fine, there are big holds on the arête to the right. Still powerful towards the top, but nowhere near the ninth grade. Good route! Should be done more to keep the dust from building up.

The original line in this part of the wall. Can be considered a combination of the dihedral and the direct wall nowadays, but it's still worthwhile to climb.

Toller 5er. Ein paar mobile Sicherungen wären hier hilfreich.

Kurz und tolle Felsqualität.

Mit Einstieg über die Westverschneidung wird es eine vernünftige Tour. Schöne exponierte Kante mit sehr guter Absicherung.

3rd go. Die Sloper am zweiten Haken machten mir das Leben schwer. Oben raus schöne Wandkletterei an runden Griffen. Beste Tour am Fels.

Sau steil nach der zweiten bis zur fünften Exe. Leider ist nach der dritten Exe der beste Teil vom Haupt-Henkel ausgebrochen. Danach nochmal schwer um aufs Band zu kommen. Ab dem Band und einer Pause eingängiger und schön bis zum Top.

Good climbing on slopers. Nice flow when you find the right sequence.

Managed the scary clip and got to the edge of the roof, just to hang around too long on the mediocre holds without finding a solution, so I had to take. Bummer.

Great roof climbing on big holds. Short, slightly reachy slab to the roof. The second bolt in the roof is quite far away and the holds can be a bit dusty, make sure you don't fall while clipping, otherwise you're back to where you started. Found a great beta at the edge of the roof involving my signature overhead heel hook, blocking off a sloper and reaching for the rescue jug. The upper wall is not that hard, even though I think I followed the line of bolts from "Die Spur von Sehnsucht", but you can still fall off. Rarely visited summit.

Another prominent line with good bridging and layback moves. The guidebooks say you need "large cams", but that's ridiculous. I used a few bigger nuts and a green, red and yellow dragon cam (Camalot sizes 0.75 to 2).

Either a very forced line directly over the arête, or not really 7-. If you bridge out to the crack on the left, it climbs nicely having the bolts directly in front of you. Nice moves, nevertheless.

Nice, juggy, but short.