Ascents in Burglesauer Block

A unique experience. After you've gained a few meters via the dihedral deeply below the roof, you're supposed to crawl to the right on a narrow ledge that gets narrower and narrower. The first old ring is placed exactly where it gets too narrow to actually move forward and it doesn't look as if it would hold a fall any more, so I placed a nut before that (in mediocre rock tbh). Shoved myself as far towards the ring as I could. My right foot was already dangling off the ledge and I was trying to somehow pull it up to a good foothold with my right hand, which kind of worked, so I could hold on to a sloper past the ring when I felt my body slowly slipping off the ledge. I had to think fast and hold on to the slopers as good as I could, waited for the body to slip off and aimed for a good foothold on the right to catch the swing. This mysteriously worked and after two more moves I reached the good crack at the edge of the roof and the first Bühler bolt. From there it's quite athletic climbing up to the ledge above the roof. Hip flexibility is a massive help here. The upper part is then much easier and straightforward.

Sau steil nach der zweiten bis zur fünften Exe. Leider ist nach der dritten Exe der beste Teil vom Haupt-Henkel ausgebrochen. Danach nochmal schwer um aufs Band zu kommen. Ab dem Band und einer Pause eingängiger und schön bis zum Top.

Managed the scary clip and got to the edge of the roof, just to hang around too long on the mediocre holds without finding a solution, so I had to take. Bummer.

Great roof climbing on big holds. Short, slightly reachy slab to the roof. The second bolt in the roof is quite far away and the holds can be a bit dusty, make sure you don't fall while clipping, otherwise you're back to where you started. Found a great beta at the edge of the roof involving my signature overhead heel hook, blocking off a sloper and reaching for the rescue jug. The upper wall is not that hard, even though I think I followed the line of bolts from "Die Spur von Sehnsucht", but you can still fall off. Rarely visited summit.

FFA.