Showing all 66 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 30th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand | |||||||
6 | ★ Wassermann - with Martin | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | ★ Rechter Kantenweg - with André | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
4+ | ★ April-Flocke - with André | 11m, 2 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Jungfrau - with André | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
7 | ★ Scharfes Luder - with Martin | 10m, 2 | |||||
Definitely harder then je t'aime. you need to tolarate relatively bad holds.
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7 | ★★ Je t'aime - with Martin | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
crux after second bolt, some good but polished pockets, keep going
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6+ | ★★ Geil und brüchig - with Martin | 13m, 5 | |||||
4 | ★★ Krebs - with André | 12m, 3 | |||||
Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände | |||||||
6 | ★ Stabeler Gedenkweg | 15m | |||||
Sun 19th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Elfenwelt Sektor Fuchsbau | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Steinbeißer | 12m, 5 | |||||
6- | ★★ Palast der Hohen | 12m, 4 | |||||
7 | ★ Chickenway | 13m, 4 | |||||
Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Freibadwand | |||||||
5 | R4 | 10m, 2 | |||||
6+ | ★ Flechtenwanderung | 10m, 3 | |||||
7- | ★★ R6 | 10m, 4 | |||||
6 | ★ R9 | 8m, 2 | |||||
Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
9- | Starke Jungs aus dem Glashaus | 30m | |||||
7 | ★ Entspannt Klettern | 20m | |||||
7+ | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg | 27m, 6 | |||||
Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände | |||||||
6+ | ★ Say Yeah | 15m | Don't Bother | ||||
Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Fehensteine | |||||||
6- | ★ Rue de Inge | 15m, 4 | |||||
6 | ★★ Dornröschenpfeiler | 25m, 5 | |||||
Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left | |||||||
5- | Langer Riss | 25m, 2 | |||||
Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände | |||||||
8 | ★★ Kalauer | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
#2go Cruxy. Direct, ie. high foot with slopy sidepull
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände | |||||||
7- | ★★ Never Stop Exploring - with Micha | 18m | |||||
7 | ★★ Bunte Wand - with Micha | 15m | |||||
9- | ★★★ Sautanz - with Micha | 20m | |||||
Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Flotter Dreier - with Micha | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Etwas nass
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7+ | ★★★ 1001-Pfund-Weg - with Micha | 27m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7 | ★★ Movie de luxe - with Micha | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Napoleon | |||||||
7 | ★★ Freundschaftsweg - with Micha | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 10th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Gernerfels | |||||||
6- | ★★ Gaffer im Nacken - with Micha | 11m, 4 | |||||
8- | ★★ Albatros - with Micha | 15m, 5 | |||||
8 | ★★ Supernase - with Micha | 15m, 4 | |||||
Fri 10th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Philosophenweg - with Harald | 28m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite the adventure, even more so (of course) compared to "Frostfinger" due to the traverse over the ridiculous flake (no idea how that thing is attached to the wall). I had not forgotten how delicate and bold the rest of the route was, but even though I knew what was coming, I hesitated a little in the runout to the last bolt.
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6 | ★ Bayernwand - with Harald | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Traverses left at the second bolt, which turns out to be the crux. Afterwards it gets easier, but you have to add some protection, the last bolt is a little awkward to get to. The top is nice and easy in good rock.
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5+ | ★ Schwartenriss - with Harald | 23m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Cool logical line. The eponymous flake is juggy on the right, but extremely dusty in the crack on the left, which spiced up even more the fact that there's no fixed protection in the lower part of the route. The lonely bolt in the dihedral before the finish is still sensible, though.
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Fri 10th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Emporwand | |||||||
7- | ★ Fröschliweg - with Harald | 16m, 4 | Average | ||||
Hard to read. Small holds in good, black rock. Not easy for the grade, but that might also be due to the dust on the holds.
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6 | ★ Emporweg - with Harald | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Stretching the term "onsight" for this one a little due to the unpassable tree. Swung around on rope tension, then immediately continued climbing. Not 100% sure we climbed the line correctly, but since there was an old ring before the arête, it was at least a "popular" variant. Apparently, the first ascensionists originally traversed further left to the end of the chimney, then went up and back again to the arête, but this detour didn't make it into later guide books.
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Fri 10th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Napoleon | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Neuer Gemsenweg - with Harald | 19m | ★ Good | ||||
Starts as "Alter Gemsenweg", but then draws up over the little overhang. Easier than "Alter Gemsenweg" in free climbing terms, but felt a bit more powerful all in all.
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7 | ★★ Alter Gemsenweg - with Harald | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Classic traverse, but astonishingly easy. Just follow the horizontal lines of pockets up to the northeast arête, then walk up to the ledge. The next two moves are the crux (originally done by pulling the gear, of course), then again easy to the ledge.
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6+ | ★ Block Ostwand - with Harald | 8m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
The "easiest" way to the summit from the plateau … or so they say. In fact, it's a little boulder problem to the ring, quite powerful. Afterwards, you're just laybacking up the big flakes, but a cam is sensible.
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6 | ★★ Nordwand - with Harald | 8m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This is the original second pitch of "Alter Gemsenweg" and indeed a fantastic finish. Spectacular, airy, but easy crack climbing.
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Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Elfenwelt Sektor Patsy | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Süchtige Elfe - with Micha, Kostja, Felix | 12m, 4 | |||||
7- | ★★ Züchtige Elfe - with Micha, Kostja, Felix | 12m, 6 | |||||
4+ | Ort der Finsternis - with Micha, Kostja, Felix | 10m, 2 | |||||
7 | ★ Kralle - with Micha, Kostja, Felix | 10m, 4 | |||||
Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Den süßen Mädchen - with Ellen | 30m | |||||
No chance here. Painful, small holds and sketchy moves made me lose all my cool (even though I clipsticked everything) so I gave up at the 4th or 5th bolt...
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7 | ★★ Movie de luxe - with Ellen | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing fun! Really strenuous and tricky along the crack (I suppose it's even harder without the draws already in), and another tough section further up. The juggy finish is the reward
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Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Schwalbenstein | |||||||
8- | ★ Bordsteinschwalbe - with Christoph Rauch | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Enjoyable! Not as hard as it seems from below.
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5+ | ★★ Südwand - with Christoph Rauch | 25m | |||||
8- | ★ Bordsteinschwalbe - with Ellen | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
The good fingerlock in the crux makes it relatively easy for the grade, especially compared to the rest of the 8s here. Careful on the way to the second bolt. Good line along the overhanging crack. Ends on the ledge, you can either finish with "Berglustweg" or "Südwand".
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5+ | ★★ Südwand - with Ellen | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
#repeat Now with glue-ins instead of pegs in two places. No entries in the summit book since I was here in March …
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Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Süßspeise - with Ellen | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
#repeat Such a good line. The sidepulls under the first roof were a bit slimy today, but they're large enough. Love the airy jug finish.
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7+ | ★★ Überlebt - with Ellen | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Didn't feel as desperate as I remembered it, but the first few meters from the ledge are quite intense.
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4 | ★ Bergseite - with Ellen | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand | |||||||
6 | ★ Wassermann - with michael König | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
7 | ★★ Je t'aime - with michael König | 10m, 2 | |||||
7 | ★ Scharfes Luder - with michael König | 10m, 2 | |||||
Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Emporwand | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Westriss - with James | 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Napoleon | |||||||
5 | ★★ Westriss - with James | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Nordkante - with James | 8m | Average | ||||
Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Fellner Dolinenwand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Höhlenbär - with Kostja | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7 | ★★ Rechter Spion - with Kostja | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7 | ★★★ Weg des Paukers - with Kostja | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Breitenberg Südwand | |||||||
6- | ★★ Siebenschläfer - with Felix | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic |
Showing all 66 ascents.