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Weiße Wand Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Thomas Müller Campbell Gome rene Andre Rodriguez Kuba Alanna Tom Bösl

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Weiße Wand 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.543952, 11.541933

description

Many routes in the sun. But overgrowed and polished.

access issues

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

inherited from Frankenjura Nord

approach

Parking at the parksite between Hegendorf and Neutras or in Neutrals.

ethic

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.
inherited from Frankenjura Nord

1.1. Nordseite 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 49.544106, 11.541825

approach

GPS: 11.54162, 49.54404

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Moosbüffel 6- Sport 16m, 3
2 Auf lange Zeit 5+ Sport 16m, 3
3 Tänzerin 5- Sport 15m
4 Docteur Fromage 6 Sport 16m
5 Ritz'n 5+/6- Sport 15m
6 Liliputs / Lilliputs 7- Sport 16m
7 Direkte Sachsen-Franken 7-/7 Sport 12m
8 Startbahn West 6 Sport 16m
9 unnamed Sport
10 Schiefe Bahn 5 Sport 15m
11 Preußenschreck 6 Sport 15m
12 Ligo Akoma 7- Sport
13 For Lunatics 7 Sport
14 Cherry 7- Sport 10m
15 Billy Boy 6- Sport
16 Next Failure 6+ Sport
17 Lucky Luke 6+ Sport 16m

1.2. Kinderrouten 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 49.543774, 11.541626

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Platzangst

FFA: Klaus Scharrer, 1991

5 Sport 10m
2 Onkel Willie 2 Sport
3 unnamed 2 Sport 10m, 5
4 Pumuckl 2 Sport
5 Schlumpf

To the right of the second clip there is a huge sidehold/jug. The whole massive chunk is lose. Please skip this hold. The route will not be significantly harder if you skip. It is recommended for the belayer to stay a little more to the left side to avoid injuries.

4+ Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Das letzte Fischstäbchen 2+ Sport
7 Hein Blöd 4- Sport
8 Käpt'n Blaubär 3 Sport
9 unnamed2 Sport

1.3. Südseite 25 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 49.543798, 11.542036

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wulst 6 Sport 10m, 2
2 Verfassungsbeschwerde

FFA: 2006

7+ Sport 10m, 3
3 Hard's Weckla 7- Sport 13m, 3
4 Linker Kamin 4 Sport 13m, 1
5 Fairplay 7- Sport 13m, 4
6 Weiße Wand 7+ Sport 13m, 4
7 Lady Domina 7 Sport 13m, 4
8 Arrabiata

Set: Dietmar Heidl

7 Sport 15m, 6
9 Neue Weiße Wand

FA: Dietmar Heidl

7- Sport 12m, 3
10 Engel 4 Sport 13m, 1
11 Rechter Kamin 3 Sport 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Bauchtanz 6 Sport 18m, 3
13 Daniel 5- Sport 15m, 3
14 Do různých stran

The first 3-4 moves are definitely the crux here. Feels like a boulder which leads to a very easy climbing route.

6+ Sport 12m, 3
15 Weiss der Geier

FFA: Jan Luft, 2006

7 Sport 12m, 3
16 Kiefernverschneidung 6- Sport 12m, 4
17 Boulder 7- Sport 12m, 4
18 Chrysalis

Be careful until you got the second clip. Route is slippery. A whipper into the first bolt might lead to a grounder.

6 Sport 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 Barbarariss 6- Sport 15m, 2
20 Ausstiegsvariante 6 Sport
21 Frühlingserwachen 5+ Sport 12m, 3
22 Jung und Alt

FFA: Klaus Scharrer, 1991

4 Sport 15m, 3
23 Bierkutscher 6 Sport 12m, 3
24 Ostkante / Rechte Kante

FA:

5 Sport 15m
25 Waggala / Waggerla 5- Sport 15m, 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
2 Onkel Willie Sport 1.2. Kinderrouten
Pumuckl Sport 1.2. Kinderrouten
unnamed Sport 10m, 5 1.2. Kinderrouten
2+ Das letzte Fischstäbchen Sport 1.2. Kinderrouten
3 Käpt'n Blaubär Sport 1.2. Kinderrouten
Rechter Kamin Sport 1 1.3. Südseite
4- Hein Blöd Sport 1.2. Kinderrouten
4 Engel Sport 13m, 1 1.3. Südseite
Jung und Alt Sport 15m, 3 1.3. Südseite
Linker Kamin Sport 13m, 1 1.3. Südseite
4+ Schlumpf Sport 1.2. Kinderrouten
5- Tänzerin Sport 15m 1.1. Nordseite
Daniel Sport 15m, 3 1.3. Südseite
Waggala Sport 15m, 4 1.3. Südseite
5 Schiefe Bahn Sport 15m 1.1. Nordseite
Platzangst Sport 10m 1.2. Kinderrouten
Ostkante Sport 15m 1.3. Südseite
5+ Auf lange Zeit Sport 16m, 3 1.1. Nordseite
Frühlingserwachen Sport 12m, 3 1.3. Südseite
5+/6- Ritz'n Sport 15m 1.1. Nordseite
6- Billy Boy Sport 1.1. Nordseite
Moosbüffel Sport 16m, 3 1.1. Nordseite
Barbarariss Sport 15m, 2 1.3. Südseite
Kiefernverschneidung Sport 12m, 4 1.3. Südseite
6 Docteur Fromage Sport 16m 1.1. Nordseite
Preußenschreck Sport 15m 1.1. Nordseite
Startbahn West Sport 16m 1.1. Nordseite
Ausstiegsvariante Sport 1.3. Südseite
Bauchtanz Sport 18m, 3 1.3. Südseite
Bierkutscher Sport 12m, 3 1.3. Südseite
Chrysalis Sport 3 1.3. Südseite
Wulst Sport 10m, 2 1.3. Südseite
6+ Lucky Luke Sport 16m 1.1. Nordseite
Next Failure Sport 1.1. Nordseite
Do různých stran Sport 12m, 3 1.3. Südseite
7- Cherry Sport 10m 1.1. Nordseite
Ligo Akoma Sport 1.1. Nordseite
Liliputs Sport 16m 1.1. Nordseite
Boulder Sport 12m, 4 1.3. Südseite
Fairplay Sport 13m, 4 1.3. Südseite
Hard's Weckla Sport 13m, 3 1.3. Südseite
Neue Weiße Wand Sport 12m, 3 1.3. Südseite
7-/7 Direkte Sachsen-Franken Sport 12m 1.1. Nordseite
7 For Lunatics Sport 1.1. Nordseite
Arrabiata Sport 15m, 6 1.3. Südseite
Lady Domina Sport 13m, 4 1.3. Südseite
Weiss der Geier Sport 12m, 3 1.3. Südseite
7+ Verfassungsbeschwerde Sport 10m, 3 1.3. Südseite
Weiße Wand Sport 13m, 4 1.3. Südseite
? unnamed Sport 1.1. Nordseite
unnamed2 Sport 1.2. Kinderrouten
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