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Leykauf Gedenkwand Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome ushi Thomas Hocke Bovist Anna Tom Bösl cooky Roman

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Leykauf Gedenkwand 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.816849, 11.311550

summary

Two walls with a variety of routes in the 7th and 8th grades UIAA.

description

The left part of the crag is a vertical wall with a bulge in the middle and a slightly overhanging top part. The routes are mainly in the 8th grade. The right wall harbours the classic dihedral, which separates the routes in the 7th grade (left) from the ones in the 8th grade (right). The protection is not always good, but you can judge it relatively well from below. Also, the rock quality varies, with some fragile structures which should be treated carefully. Overall, there are some gems to be found.

access issues

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

inherited from Frankenjura Nord

approach

Park in Doos. Cross the bridge across the Wiesent opposite the therapy centre, then turn left (east) towards Rabeneck. Follow the hiking trail until you reach a small hydroelectric power plant. You can see the crag above you to the right. After a few meters, a faint track leads uphill to its base.

GPS: 11.31183, 49.81685

ethic

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.
inherited from Frankenjura Nord
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Linker Teil

2 Sommerferien 7 Sport 20m, 9
3 Granatsplitter 7- Sport 20m, 8
4 Alter Weg, direkter Einstieg

Maint: Andreass, 27 Apr

6+ Sport 20m, 6
5 Immerwährende Veränderung

FFA: Martin Treiber, 1998

8+/9- Sport 18m, 5
6 Alter Weg 6+ Sport
7 Panta Rhei

FFA: Sebastian Schwertner, 2011

8 Sport 16m
8 Kuchen & Bier

Uses the first two bolts of Panta Rhei, then slightly right through the steepest part of the bulge.

FA: Andreass, 25 May

9- Sport 21m, 7
9 The Dude Abides

FFA: Sebastian Schwertner, 2011

8+ Sport 16m
10 Heidi Line

FFA: Gerhard Kireth, 2001

8- Sport
11 Unnamed 1 6+ Sport 16m
12 Frankenjoggers Schultüte

FFA: Tom Heinze, 1989

7- Sport 17m
13 Moralix

FFA: Tom Heinze, 1989

6- Mixed trad 17m, 1

Rechter Teil

15 Schwarzer Zorn

FFA: Gerald Böff, 2002

7 Sport 20m, 5
16 Alp(en)traum

FFA: Roland Filipp & Bertram Schmidt

7- Sport 20m, 4
17 Natwürmli

FFA: Gerald Böff, 2001

7+ Sport 20m
18 Leykauf Gedenkweg 5+ Mixed trad 20m, 2
19 Lochfraß

FFA: Richard Rieff

8- Sport 16m, 4
20 Rote Gefahr

FFA: Martin Grulich

8- Sport 20m
21 Spiel der Geister 8- Sport 20m
22 Unnamed 2 6+ Sport 15m

Vorturm

24 Ultrakorregd

FFA: Thomas Arnold, 1999

8- Sport 14m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5+ Leykauf Gedenkweg Mixed trad 20m, 2
6- Moralix Mixed trad 17m, 1
6+ Alter Weg Sport
Alter Weg, direkter Einstieg Sport 20m, 6
Unnamed 1 Sport 16m
Unnamed 2 Sport 15m
7- Alp(en)traum Sport 20m, 4
Frankenjoggers Schultüte Sport 17m
Granatsplitter Sport 20m, 8
7 Schwarzer Zorn Sport 20m, 5
Sommerferien Sport 20m, 9
7+ Natwürmli Sport 20m
8- Heidi Line Sport
Lochfraß Sport 16m, 4
Rote Gefahr Sport 20m
Spiel der Geister Sport 20m
Ultrakorregd Sport 14m
8 Panta Rhei Sport 16m
8+ The Dude Abides Sport 16m
8+ to 9- Immerwährende Veränderung Sport 18m, 5
9- Kuchen & Bier Sport 21m, 7
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