Ascents in Nankendorf

2.go

Small to tiny holds in the lower part. Some bigger holds seem to have broken off as well, but still possible for the grade. The upper part is especially nice.

Nice climbing along the dull arête (slightly awkward from a historical perspective, since it basically forces you to climb the line that's given by an old route in a more difficult way up to the ledge), then precariously over the monstrous block/flake and suddenly a few small holds to the anchor.

Enjoyable jug flake/crack to the third bolt, then suddenly the crux on tiny pockets to the big U-shaped washout (when I was here last time, I saw this and just thought: I need to go there!). Fantastic pockets from the ledge to the top. Felt too powerful for today, but should work when fully rested.

Felt harder this time around because I grabbed the crucial hold with the wrong hand, so the sequence doesn't work out nicely. #repeat

Good as a boulder, average as a route. Second bolt can be clipped from the good undercling. Then two moves and it's over.

The first 5, bouldery moves are the most difficult. Then easy over blocks (maybe put a sling around the big horn, in case holds break) to the third bolt. From there it's good pocket climbing, might get better with a few more ascents. The hollow flakes towards the anchor ruin the flow a bit.

Stand before you go-go, don't be hanging on like a yo-yo

The interesting part are the first few meters, then it's over before you know it. #short "Where is the next bolt?" "There isn't"

Do a few nice and technical moves, hope for good restposition, find good restposition, rest, repeat. Don't forget to breathe.

If you start in direct straight line with the first two bolts on the left, it's quite hard for a 4. Maybe start more on the right and try to clip from there.

Funky mantel in the middle, after some warmup climbing in rough rock. The upper part is a crack with good holds; the bolts are quite far to the right, which makes it a bit scary. I guess the hardest part is really to traverse to the anchor.

Incredibly rough rock, especially compared to "Drachentöter" further left. Quite easy to the ledge, then a powerful boulder through the overhang. Nice one.

Hung up the draws as a #warmup. Actually we wanted to climb "Nankendorfer Weg" first, but the starting holds were so damp that I couldn't make a single move.

Nice little jump at the start (probably possible statically, but a little harder), then crux moves for me from the good crimp to the jug after the second bolt. Nice pocket climbing with a little traverse in the middle afterwards and another hard section at the end, with a cool finishing move into an undercling. The first bolt is awkward to clip, and the second is too high (and bent towards the rock, someone must have bashed it).

2nd go

Fell on the last move, didn't stick the dyno. Worked out another solution which got me into a better position to do the move.

Great route in a fantastic looking wall. Boulder moves at the start, easier to a ledge. Then gradually getting steeper and steeper on monstrous jugs through a massive overhang, finally diagonally up with a finishing dyno, then jugs to the top. Quite polished already.

Hard start with uncomfortable terrain for a fall before the first bolt. Nice slabby arête with good moves.