A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Tobias Pissulla Björn Kai Ali Stemmler Johannes Max Stein momo Kay M
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Ottofelsen
77 in Crag
- 1.1. Ottofels 57 in Cliff
- 1.2. Ottos Frau 4 in Cliff
- 1.3. Ottonadel 7 in Cliff
- 1.4. Ottos Kind 5 in Cliff
- 1.5. Vergrabener Dom 1 in Cliff
- 1.6. Otto-Boulderblöcke 3 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Ottofelsen 77 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.796738, 10.711739
http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de/felsinfo/harz_harzvorland/oberharz__brocken_/3284
http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de/felsinfo/harz_harzvorland/oberharz__brocken_/3285 ==[en]==
description
==[de]==
Der Ottofelsen ist eine kleine Attraktion für Wanderer. Daher sind hier viele Touristen anzutreffen.
==[en]==
The Ottofelsen is an attraction for hiking tourists. Therefore, many tourists can be found around the Ottofels.
access issues
==[de]==
Es ist erlaubt am Ottofelsen zu klettern. Alle Felsen sind jedoch der Zone II (Klettern nur auf existierenden Routen) zugeordnet. Für weitere Details siehe:
It is permitted to climb on the Ottofels. All cliffs are assigned to Zone II (climbing only on existing routes).
For more details please refer to:
ethic
==[de]==
Aufgrund der Lage des Gebiets im Naturschutzgebiet sollte penibel darauf geachtet werden keinen Müll zu hinterlassen und Anweisungen durch die örtlichen Ranger folge zu leisten.
==[en]==
As the rocks are part of the national park, everybody should take care about littering and follow the instructions from the park rangers.
1.1. Ottofels 57 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.796797, 10.711861
approach
Coming from Wernigerode you drive all the way through hasserode. When you leave the town you drive about one more kilometer and take the gravel road to the right. You basically can't miss the parking lot. From there you follow the signposts towards "Ottofels".
history
The rock formation of Ottofels is a natural monument since 1964.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Adventskalender
FA: Maxim Buckup & K. Paul, 2000 | {SX} VIIc | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
Alter Riß
FFA: Rainer Dieck, 1982 | {SX} VIIb | ||||||
3 |
Auf Leisen Sohlen
FA: Ralf Gentsch, 1994 | {SX} IXa | ||||||
4 | Auf Leisen Sohlen Direkt | {SX} Xa | ||||||
5 |
Bergbrüderriß
FA: Ralf Siegmund, W. Brandt & V. Giebel, 1972 FFA: Ralf Gentsch & J. Kroupa, 1998 | {SX} VIIIc | ||||||
6 | ★★ Besucherscharte | {SX} III | ||||||
7 | Blockkamin | {SX} II | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
Brockenblick
FA: Ralf Siegmund, 1977 FFA: Ralf Gentsch, 1996 | {SX} IXa | ||||||
9 |
Bruder Leichtfuß
FA: Uwe Munzert & D. Treptow, 1980 | {SX} VIIIa | ||||||
10 |
Der mit dem Golf Tanzt
FA: Michael Urban & G. Blaschek, 1998 | {SX} IXb | ||||||
11 |
Dritter Advent
FA: Uwe Munzert, D. Wehrmann, D. Wehrammn & K. Paul, 1995 | {SX} VIIIb | ||||||
12 | Eternit | {SX} Xa | ||||||
13 |
Fichtenhangel
FA: Klaus Paul, P. Wehrmann & D. Wehrmann, 1986 | {SX} V | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Fichtenweg | {SX} VI | ||||||
15 |
Fliegerriß
FA: Ralf Siegmund, 1978 | {SX} VI | ||||||
16 |
Gerade und Hoch
FA: Michael Urban & G. Blaschek, 1997 | {SX} VIIb | ||||||
17 |
Gipfelweg
FA: Ralf Siegmund | {SX} IV | ||||||
18 |
★★★ Grüner Winkel
FA: Ralf Siegmund & E. Goedicke, 1976 | {SX} IV | ||||||
19 |
Gvu
FA: Klaus Paul, U. Munzert, G. Gersdorf & R. Gentsch, 1992 | {SX} VIIc | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
20 |
Haftungsausschluß
FA: Klaus Paul, 1997 | {SX} VIIIa | ||||||
21 |
Herbstriß
FA: Klaus Linde & U. Kruft, 1977 FFA: Klaus Paul & D. Wehrmann, 1986 | {SX} VI | ||||||
22 | Hinten Ohne | {SX} Xb | ||||||
23 |
Hohes C
FA: Klaus Paul, H. Wehrmann & U. Munzert, 1986 | {SX} VIIc | ||||||
24 | Innerer Kamin | {SX} II | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
25 | Kamin | {SX} VIIa | ||||||
26 |
★★ Kleine Hangel
FA: Ralf Siegmund, 1976 | {SX} VIIa | ||||||
27 |
Kleine Tastatur
FA: Ralf Siegmund, F. Mahlke & E. Goedicke, 1978 | {SX} VI | ||||||
28 | Kneifer | {SX} III | ||||||
29 |
Kreuzwinkelschluff
FA: Inge Harnisch, 1992 | {SX} III | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
30 |
Kurz-Fies-Blutig
FA: Klaus Paul & A. Wille, 1997 | {SX} VIIa | ||||||
31 | Leichte Stiege | {SX} II | ||||||
32 | Leitervariante | {SX} III | ||||||
33 |
Letzter Weg
FA: Klaus Linde, U. Kruft, R. Siegmund, F. Mahlke & E. Goedicke, 1978 | {SX} IV | ||||||
34 |
Linker Ausstieg
FA: Dirk Fernow, 1989 | {SX} VIIc | ||||||
35 |
Links Bringts
FA: Matthias Jahnke, K. Paul, E. Fiedler & C. Schwark, 1997 | {SX} VI | ||||||
36 |
Moderner Ausstieg
FA: Klaus Paul, 1997 | {SX} VIIc | ||||||
37 | Monster Ohne Kamin | {SX} IXa | ||||||
38 |
Monsterkamin
FA: Klaus Paul, 1998 | {SX} IXa | ||||||
39 |
★★★ Ottos Rippe
FA: Ralf Siegmund & K.-P. Strutz, 1976 | {SX} V | ||||||
40 | Rampe | {SX} I | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
41 |
Rätsel
FA: Uwe Munzert & D. Wehrmann, 1988 FFA: Uwe Bierwolf & A. Bierwolf, 1998 | {SX} IXb | ||||||
42 |
Ronalds Fehlbohrung
FA: Klaus Paul, 1998 | {SX} VIIIb | ||||||
43 |
Satansbraten
FA: Klaus Paul, P. Wehrmann & D. Wehrmann, 1986 | {SX} VIIb | ||||||
44 |
Scheinbare Unendlichkeit
FA: Klaus Paul, E. Fiedler & M. Paul, 1997 | {SX} VIIIa | ||||||
45 |
★★ Scheitelweg
FA: Ralf Siegmund, K. P. Strutz & K. Linde, 1976 | {SX} VIIa | ||||||
46 | Schluff | {SX} III | ||||||
47 |
Schräg und Hoch
FA: Klaus Paul & R. Kruft, 1998 | {SX} VIIc | ||||||
48 | Schrofen | {SX} I | ||||||
49 |
★★ Sonniger Winkel
FA: Uwe Munzert, K. Paul & R. Hannig, 1984 | {SX} VIIb | ||||||
50 |
Südpfeiler
FA: Heiko Bode, C. Flume, H. Hartung & K. Kosinski, 1984 | {SX} III | ||||||
51 | Überraschungskante | {SX} IV | ||||||
52 |
Unmusikalischer Start
FA: Klaus Paul & J. Jäkel, 1998 | {SX} VIIIb | ||||||
53 |
Variante zum Brockenblick
FA: Ralf Siegmund, G. Schreiber & H. Papies, 1977 FFA: Klaus Paul, Z & U. Munzert, 1986 | {SX} VIIc | ||||||
54 | Variante Zur Rampe | {SX} IV | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
55 |
★ Walters Kante
FA: Ralf Siegmund & E. Goedicke, 1976 | {SX} V | ||||||
56 |
Wendeltreppe
FA: Uew Munzert, 1986 | {SX} VIIIc | ||||||
57 |
★★ Zick-Zack und Hoch
FA: Uwe Munzert, D. Wehrmann & Björn, 1986 | {SX} VIIa |
1.2. Ottos Frau 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.796580, 10.711510
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Alter Holzkeilweg
FFA: Klaus Paul & J. Tittel, 1998 | {SX} VIIb | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
Es Lebe der Baum
FA: Ralf Gentsch, U. Kruft & K. Paul, 1998 | {SX} VIIc | ||||||
3 |
Gulauka
FA: Klaus Paul, C. Schwark & R. Gentsch, 1998 | {SX} VIIIa | ||||||
4 |
Neujahrsfliegen
FA: Uwe Kruft & H. Bode, 1999 | {SX} VIIc |
1.3. Ottonadel 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.796987, 10.711938
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Alter Weg | {SX} V | ||||||
2 |
Drei Stunden im Winter
FA: Uwe Munzert, K. Paul & P. Salzwedel, 1992 | {SX} VIIc | ||||||
3 |
Nadelöhr
FA: Uwe Munzert, K. Linde, D. Wehrmann & K. Paul, 1986 | {SX} VIIIa | ||||||
4 | Ostvariante | {SX} V | ||||||
5 | Rißvariante | {SX} V | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Talkante
FA: Hans Pankotsch, G. Riebeseel & R. Hannig, 1963 | {SX} VIIb | ||||||
7 |
Zwergentod
FA: Uwe Munzert, K. Paul & P. Salzwedel, 1992 | {SX} VIIIc |
1.4. Ottos Kind 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.796522, 10.711825
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Du und die Sandbank
FA: Heiko Bode, U. Kruft & A. Buße, 1999 | {SX} VIIa | ||||
2 | ★ Jever | {SX} III | ||||
3 | Radeberger | {SX} II | ||||
4 | Radler | {SX} II | ||||
5 | Ur Krostitzer | {SX} III |
1.5. Vergrabener Dom 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Putzkante
FA: Klaus Paul, 2003 | {SX} V |
1.6. Otto-Boulderblöcke 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
Vom Ottofels aus ca. 300m richtung Norden. Ein pregnanter Felshaufen aus vielen keinen Bouldern. Der Haufen liegt auf einer Hügelkuppe
access issues
Unklar ob das Bouldern hier erlaubt ist.
approach
Vom Ottofelsen ca. 300-400m querfeldein richtung norden
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Wackeldackel
Über zwei markante Blöcke im hinteren Teil zum Topout. Achtung der obere große Block kippelt. Er wird aber nicht kippen. Schönes Teil, alles weg definiert bis auf die beiden Blöcke, Natürlich SD! TOPO folgt. FA: Ali Stemmler, 3 Oct 2020 | 5C | 4m | |||
2 |
★ Sit-Down-Deluxe
links vom Wackeldackel auf einem Absatz. Sitzstart an 2-3 Fingerleiste und hohem Fuß (25-30cm über Pad) Die Schwierigkeit ist klar der Sitzstart. Ich fand ihr sehr hart. Topout auf dem oberen Block. Alles bis auf die beiden Blöcke wegdefiniert. TOPO folgt FA: Ali Stemmler, 3 Oct 2020 | 6B+ | 3m | |||
3 |
★★ Microdach
Links von Sit-Down-Deluxe. Start an Seitgriffen am Block rechts. Füße nur am linken Block. Außer den Beiden Startgriffen sind nur der Block unter dem Dach und das Dach selbt erlaubt. Knieklemmer gibts gratis. Der Mantel zum schluss rundet das Teil ab. FA: Ali Stemmler, 3 Oct 2020 | 6A | 3m |