Ascents in Grande Grotta

Insane 40m roof, my hat is off to the bolter. What an epic that would have been.

Final day of climbing in Kaly -- in the rain Psyched to do this big bad roof second go despite some wet tufas. [2]

Got all the way past the missing draw but couldn't clip the next one. Massive fall wheeeeeeeee! Will get back on it one day

Need to get so much stronger, fitter and smarter to climb this route. A bit of a Dreamline project for me

Last route of the trip, another high point, seems to be the theme of this trip great way to finish up.

Got to the crux move on the onsight, 1 bolt from the top, 50m up. Just immense.

Fell off the final move again at the 50m mark. Gutted. Found better foot beta.

Top went into the sun but was well motivated to not fall again. 55m of epic steepness capped with a slabby wall crux move. Yowza! [4]

Much harder in July due to humidity.

Got to bolt no. 12! Aided the undercling crux (crazy move) and lowered at 2nd crux. I'll be back.

Very soft for 8a, but super fun anyway!

#2go

#2go Soft. Pumpy roof climbing with a spicy finish!

high point -- 17 draws up. Very hot and humid

Still can't believe this went. Even though the first time I got on this was in 2017 according to my notes, this was the 7th try. I usually give it one try per trip (if that). Such a cool route, but I am happy not to have to tie in and stare at that endless line of draws receding into the sky again

Very soft 8a but super cool on the top, this route is more like a 5 meters hard section and that's it! 7C+ max. Sent it in 3rd go.

First 8a onsight. 35m tufafest with kneebars everywhere. Took me well over an hour to figure shit out. Spent most of that in the crux sacrificing calves and skin trying to figure it out with wethe feet:') wish more rooves like this existed

One move short ..

An EPIC adventure

3th go - climbed the original line. The grade is 7c+ if you avoid the crux climbing around on the right (so far from the bolt that you have to skip it). Anyway, I felt it soft even going straight

My best onsight performance ever. 1h30' on 45°/50° impressive overhang cave - this monster route fits perfectly my climbing style and this Os was my dream for two years... a long time waiting for perfect meteo and phisical conditions. (Pure onsight, no info, no kneepads)

So happy that Danny convinced me to try this. Linked all the moves with no falls, first or second try. Honestly didn’t feel a move harder than like V3/4? Just one massive endurance fest on a route perfectly suited to my abilities. Can’t wait to see progress on this rig. First time trying an 8a and honestly one of the top 3 climbs I’ve ever been on.

2nd go?!! I’m in total disbelief of what just happened. Like…how? When I first tried 3 weeks ago I needed 2 days of rest JUST from going bolt to bolt. Maybe the most onsight-able of the grade, anywhere.

Definitely soft, given that I’ve never even done a 7c+ clean. This would MAYBE get 7c/+ in other Balkan countries like Romania or Serbia…but idk where else you can climb a 40m monster roof with 28 QD’s, with moves no harder than V3/4. If you’re fit for this style, it’ll feel like a marathon 7c.

Anyhooters, grade is the least important thing about this climb. 1000 stars.

40m of roofy jugs and kneebars. Two distinct bouldery sections but no moves that are too hard. I wouldn’t give this 8a with how many great rests there are. But the route does suit me well. Such an amazing climb regardless!! An adventure through tufas and stalactites.