A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1. Holy Ghost / Heiliger Geist 9 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Holy Ghost 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: 39.719248, 21.625532
access issues
Generally, rock formations with inhabited monasteries should not be climbed. Preserve all other historical remains.
ethic
Traditionally, Meteora was in great parts explored by climbers with background from Saxon Switzerland (East Germany), translating to ringbolts, leadbolting and runouts. However, there is also some mainstream sport climbing to be found.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Action Direct
The prominent black streak at the middle of the NW face. Many parties climb the first four pitches up to the ledge and rappel down. The hardest pitch can be aided at 7a+/b A0. Freed by Melissa Le Neve Who gave an 8b/8b+ grade. Latest news suggest that a hold broke in the crux pitch, making a probable 8c. Set: Christos Batalogiannis & Vaggelis Batsios, 1995 FFA: Melissa Le Nevé, 30 Sep 2014 | {UIAA} 10 | 240m, 7, 54 | |||||
| 2 | Heiliger Geist | {UIAA} 8- | 320m, 10, 28 | |||||
| 3 |
★★★ Pillar of Dreams / Πιλιέ των ονείρων / Traumpfeiler
Set: H.L. Stutte & H.Magdefrou, 1981 | 5+ | 260m, 9, 17 | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ Iphigenia
Starts on the left side of the ridge, 15m further left of Pillar of Dreams. A fairly direct line up the longest face of Holy Ghost. | 7a | 250m, 7 | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ Athena
Set: Aris Theodoropoulos & Dimitris Sotirakis, 1994 | 7b+ | 210m, 6, 37 | |||||
| 6 |
★★★ Wahnsinnsverschneidung / Δίεδρο της Σχιζοφρένειας / Corner of Madness
Four pitches of right facing corner system, followed by two pitches of a black water runnel to the summit of Holy Ghost. A brilliant outing. While a trad route, there is fairly consistently a bolt every 6 to 8 metres, and somewhat closer on the 35 metres pitch 4 where the crack is wide. Confident climbers will therefore be able to climb the route with a set of wires, and a set of cams up to BD3. More gear will obviously increase confidence further. The belays are not clear on the route being typically only a single bolt, with trad gear to supplement. So just climb until you get pumped or run out of gear, then find a position you like. Expect to do lots of laybacking. The nature of the crack system doesn't suit jamming. Set: Sepp Eichinger & Hans Weninger, 1983 | {UIAA} 7- | 180m, 6, 20 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Way of the Water
Steep pebble pinching for the first 10m or so, then an easy but run-out water groove. You can sling a few protruding rocks between the few and far between bolts. Set: Dietrich Hasse & Heinz Lothar Stutte, 1979 | 6b+ | 4 | |||||
| 8 |
★★★ Drop knee dance
Nice boulder with flat ground all around. Accessible at the top of the hiking path of heiliger geist. Just in front of the rappel from the summit. "Drop knee dance" is the hardest boulder I succeeded, located in the middle of the eastern face of the boulder. The boulder can also be climbed from every sides. Many possible hard lines on this boulder because it is overhanging and the conglomerate offers many holds. FA: Nathan Philippot, 20 Nov 2020 | {FB} 7A+ | 4m | |||||
| 9 |
Weg der Blumen
The route starts at the plateau, just over the entrance to the cave chapel. There's a metal staircase at the back side of the large boulder that touches the main wall. P1: Wall climb, 3 bolts, 10m P2: Rightwards towards the tree. 4 bolts, 20m. P3: Chimney towards a good ledge. 15m. The first three pitches can be easily linked. P4: Rappel/ get lowered to the ledge, climb the ramp. 20m P5: Wide crack corner, 1 bolt, takes large gear (e.g. 5-6 camalot) 25m P6: Easy rightwards traverse. 1 bolt, 40m The guidebook says it's a walk off from there but we did another 35m pitch to a tree to be on the safe side. Turn left towards the summit register. Follow the cairns to a small approach rappel and two 40m rappels through "Weg des wassers". Set: Udo Dalgger & Helmut Dalgger, 1980 | {UIAA} 6+ | 120m, 6 | |||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5+ | ★★★ | Pillar of Dreams | 260m, 9, 17 | ||
| 6+ | Weg der Blumen | 120m, 6 | |||
| 7- | ★★★ | Wahnsinnsverschneidung | 180m, 6, 20 | ||
| 6b+ | ★★ | Way of the Water | 4 | ||
| 8- | Heiliger Geist | 320m, 10, 28 | |||
| 7a | ★★★ | Iphigenia | 250m, 7 | ||
| 7b+ | ★★★ | Athena | 210m, 6, 37 | ||
| 7A+ | ★★★ | Drop knee dance | 4m | ||
| 10 | ★★★ | Action Direct | 240m, 7, 54 |