Grotta del cavallo Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Jakob Fredrik Eckardt Lee Cujes Oli tichacek Ewa Reg Łukasz Osipiuk Philip Moxi alonsoATCO

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1. Grotta del cavallo 63 in Cliff
- 1.1. Parco giochi 8 in Sector
- 1.2. Grotta del cavallo / Grotta dei Cavalli 25 in Sector
- 1.3. Grotta dei Santi 10 in Sector
- 1.4. Orange Wall 16 in Sector
- 1.5. Grotta di Atze 4 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. Grotta del cavallo 63 routes in Cliff

1 2 3 4 5

1 Parco giochi 2 Grotta del cavallo 3 Grotta dei Santi 4 Orange Wall 5 Grotta di Atze

Summary:

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.167503, 12.720405

Closer to the rocks, but on dirt road (38.181620, 12.721803)

Even closer to the rocks, but the road is quite bad and rocky in some places (38.175634, 12.716612)

ethic

As of 2020 it's forbidden to bolt new routes as re-bolting is still the main focus.

inherited from San Vito lo Capo

1.1. Parco giochi 8 routes in Sector

Summary:: Lat / Long: 38.169024, 12.719543

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	Goatbuster	6c+	Sport 6
2	Variante X	7a	Sport 20m, 9
3	★★★ Ypsilon / Y	6a	Sport 20m, 9
4	Cardo Mannaro Warning Fixed Gear: Unsafe bolts, needs re-bolting	8a+	Sport 18m, 7
5	★★ No people, no stress	6c	Sport 20m, 8
6	La mia ombra	7a+	Sport 20m, 10
7	★★★ Non è mai troppo tardi	6c	Sport 27m, 15
8	Cuscino di suocera	6c	Sport 20m, 9

1.2. Grotta del cavallo 25 routes in Sector

Summary:: Lat / Long: 38.168136, 12.719997

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	★★ No Name1	5b	Sport 22m
2	★★ No Name2	3c	Sport 22m
3	★★ No Name3	6a	Sport 22m
4	★★★ No Name4	6a+	Sport 22m
5	Calibbabba	8a	Sport 25m
6	★★ Smoking Aces	7a+	Sport 25m
7	★ No Name5	7b	Sport 22m
8	Roberts Länge Set: T. Tanneberger	6c+	Sport 24m, 10
9	★★ Birdwatching	7a+	Sport 25m
10	★★ Baywatching	6c	Sport 18m
11	★★ Il domatore di capre	6b+	Sport 28m, 13
12	Il capodoglio	7b	Sport
13	★★ Gaspare	6c+	Sport 28m
14	Buco di fix	7b+	Sport
15	★ Via la discordia	6c+	Sport
16	★★★ Melchiorre	6b	Sport 18m, 7
17	★★ Baladassarre	6b+	Sport 18m
18	Araba-ttati	7b+	Sport 19m
19	Mescuitos One hard jump. Never gets done.	7c+	Sport
20	★★ Archeotalpa	7b+	Sport 19m, 10
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
21	Tubo di Friend	7c	Sport
22	★★★ Balu Yoghi e Bubu	7b+	Sport 25m
23	No bulls no shit	7c+	Sport 28m
24	★★★ Bue	6c	Sport 28m, 12
25	★ Asinello	6b+	Sport 28m, 13

1.3. Grotta dei Santi 10 routes in Sector

Summary:: Lat / Long: 38.167479, 12.720028

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Iddu	8a+	Sport 16m
2	Segesta	8a+	Sport 15m
3	Tsingy rouge	8b	Sport
4	3,3 € At end of flake, goes left and up to high anchors. Could be easier.	8a+	Sport 16m
5	1,2 € Starts in the same place, but finishes at the low anchors after the flake. Listed as 8a+ in the guide, the locals guidebook downgrades to 7c+.	7c+	Sport 11m
6	Terra media This weird line traverses from the back of the cave out L to join the Euro routes. Listed as 7c..8b in guide, very wrong.	7b+	Sport 14m
7	★★ Tu Vo'Fa O Calibano Back of the cave.	6b+	Sport 14m
8	★★★ L'ora degli eroi The primo hanging rib. Does not start up the tufa pipes as you would think. Starts left on the blobs and moves right.	7c+	Sport 15m, 6
9	Mpacchiapecura Starts up the tufa pipes, then goes right up juggy groove. One guidebook has all of these routes mixed up and grades this 7c+, which it is not.	7a+	Sport 15m
10	Bedda Mactri Gicen 7c+ but not. Looks like you would want the second bolt stickclipped to avoid decking into the ledge.	7b	Sport 14m

1.4. Orange Wall 16 routes in Sector

Summary:: Lat / Long: 38.166914, 12.720453

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ Gracie Josef	5c	Sport 26m, 9
2	★★ Gracie Maria	5c	Sport 25m, 9
3	★★ Moshi moshine	6b	Sport 23m, 10
4	★★★ 54 nodi	6a	Sport 26m, 13
5	★★★ Prua al vento	5c+	Sport 26m, 12
6	★★★ Meteoriti	6a	Sport 28m, 12
7	★★★ Minchiamannoia	6a+	Sport 26m, 14
8	★★★ Allargalo stretto	6b	Sport 26m, 13
9	★★★ Orange man	6b+	Sport 25m, 12
10	★ Yuga pig	7a+	Sport 25m, 12
11	★★ Ubal brcko	6a+	Sport 22m, 11
12	★★ ZUZU Set: A. Arena	6a	Sport 30m, 12
13	★ Kein Name Cleaned after the first ascent, possibly a bit harder now Set: I. Savori	5c+	Sport 30m, 12
14	4:44	7b+	Sport 28m, 13
15	Shark attack	7b+	Sport 16m, 7
16	Incontri ravvicinati del 4 Tipo Projekt Set: A. Arena		Sport 16m, 7

1.5. Grotta di Atze 4 routes in Sector

Summary:: Lat / Long: 38.166141, 12.721064

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Saubazis	8b	Sport 25m
2	Wellengang	8b	Sport 25m
3	Picasso	8a	Sport 20m
4	Atze	7b+	Sport 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
3c	★★	No Name2	Sport 22m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
5b	★★	No Name1	Sport 22m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
5c	★★★	Gracie Josef	Sport 26m, 9	1.4. Orange Wall
	★★	Gracie Maria	Sport 25m, 9	1.4. Orange Wall
5c+	★	Kein Name	Sport 30m, 12	1.4. Orange Wall
	★★★	Prua al vento	Sport 26m, 12	1.4. Orange Wall
6a	★★★	Ypsilon	Sport 20m, 9	1.1. Parco giochi
	★★	No Name3	Sport 22m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
	★★★	54 nodi	Sport 26m, 13	1.4. Orange Wall
	★★★	Meteoriti	Sport 28m, 12	1.4. Orange Wall
	★★	ZUZU	Sport 30m, 12	1.4. Orange Wall
6a+	★★★	No Name4	Sport 22m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
	★★★	Minchiamannoia	Sport 26m, 14	1.4. Orange Wall
	★★	Ubal brcko	Sport 22m, 11	1.4. Orange Wall
6b	★★★	Melchiorre	Sport 18m, 7	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
	★★★	Allargalo stretto	Sport 26m, 13	1.4. Orange Wall
	★★	Moshi moshine	Sport 23m, 10	1.4. Orange Wall
6b+	★	Asinello	Sport 28m, 13	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
	★★	Baladassarre	Sport 18m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
	★★	Il domatore di capre	Sport 28m, 13	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
	★★	Tu Vo'Fa O Calibano	Sport 14m	1.3. Grotta dei Santi
	★★★	Orange man	Sport 25m, 12	1.4. Orange Wall
6c		Cuscino di suocera	Sport 20m, 9	1.1. Parco giochi
	★★	No people, no stress	Sport 20m, 8	1.1. Parco giochi
	★★★	Non è mai troppo tardi	Sport 27m, 15	1.1. Parco giochi
	★★	Baywatching	Sport 18m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
	★★★	Bue	Sport 28m, 12	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
6c+		Goatbuster	Sport 6	1.1. Parco giochi
	★★	Gaspare	Sport 28m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
		Roberts Länge	Sport 24m, 10	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
	★	Via la discordia	Sport	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
7a		Variante X	Sport 20m, 9	1.1. Parco giochi
7a+		La mia ombra	Sport 20m, 10	1.1. Parco giochi
	★★	Birdwatching	Sport 25m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
	★★	Smoking Aces	Sport 25m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
		Mpacchiapecura	Sport 15m	1.3. Grotta dei Santi
	★	Yuga pig	Sport 25m, 12	1.4. Orange Wall
7b		Il capodoglio	Sport	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
	★	No Name5	Sport 22m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
		Bedda Mactri	Sport 14m	1.3. Grotta dei Santi
7b+		Araba-ttati	Sport 19m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
	★★	Archeotalpa	Sport 19m, 10	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
	★★★	Balu Yoghi e Bubu	Sport 25m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
		Buco di fix	Sport	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
		Terra media	Sport 14m	1.3. Grotta dei Santi
		4:44	Sport 28m, 13	1.4. Orange Wall
		Shark attack	Sport 16m, 7	1.4. Orange Wall
		Atze	Sport 20m	1.5. Grotta di Atze
7c		Tubo di Friend	Sport	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
7c+		Mescuitos	Sport	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
		No bulls no shit	Sport 28m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
		1,2 €	Sport 11m	1.3. Grotta dei Santi
	★★★	L'ora degli eroi	Sport 15m, 6	1.3. Grotta dei Santi
8a		Calibbabba	Sport 25m	1.2. Grotta del cavallo
		Picasso	Sport 20m	1.5. Grotta di Atze
8a+		Cardo Mannaro	Sport 18m, 7	1.1. Parco giochi
		3,3 €	Sport 16m	1.3. Grotta dei Santi
		Iddu	Sport 16m	1.3. Grotta dei Santi
		Segesta	Sport 15m	1.3. Grotta dei Santi
8b		Tsingy rouge	Sport	1.3. Grotta dei Santi
		Saubazis	Sport 25m	1.5. Grotta di Atze
		Wellengang	Sport 25m	1.5. Grotta di Atze
?		Incontri ravvicinati del 4 Tipo	Sport 16m, 7	1.4. Orange Wall