Routes in Nuevo León for selected grade

Super fun overhanging climbing Probably the best route on the wall.

Jug haul.

(2nd pitch started, but not finished as of 2012.)

Route should be considered dangerous due to rock fall potential.

Obvious wide crack at top of canyon. Vegetated. Trad, but might have bolted belays.

Start up "Otis (Campbell)", then continue up and right through the garden, over the ridge then follow the dihedral to the same summit as "Estrellita".

Segunda ruta, de izquierda a derecha, de cañón de la derecha. Tiene un techo. Tiene placas viejas y al parecer la ruta vieja es un multi-largo. La ruta re-plaqueteada solo llega al primer largo.

no olvides tus nudos en las puntas

To the right of "Tragando Camotes"

Unrepeated since first ascent due to huge amounts of loose rock. Several parties have been injured or backed off on this.

Recently re-bolted (as of 2014), 8 bolts to first anchor and 3 for the extension. 5.10a to intermediate anchor, 5.10b to final anchor.

Justo en medio del filo de la cresta. Entre "Caso Omiso" y "Extasis"

Bonita ruta entre 2 grietas pasando por un pequeño desplomito en el crux. *Cuidado porque es ruta nueva y no ha sido limpiada del todo, por lo que hay bloques sueltos

The first two pitches can be linked. After that I wouldn't recommend due to rope drag over loose rock and vegetation. The fourth pitch is the 10a. On the sixth pitch you rappel down to a notch and climb the last two. On the descent you rappel down to the notch again and use the anchors right on your face (or chest if you are tall) to rappel (walk) down to another anchor which takes you straight down to the ground with a single 70m rope (this new anchor was added recently).

This is the only route on the slabs that are just west of the the orange cave where Redemption is located.

To reach the last five routes on this wall take a right once you hit the wall coming from the parking area. This route is the first line of bolts on the left. Climb straight up on small edges and side pulls to the chain anchor.

this is the 3rd route from left to right, slabby start ,goes into vertical climbing, fun ,fun ,easiest route in the crag .35 m long

BOLTED BY :ADIEL VILLANUEVA Y JOE GUADARRAMA.

Primera ruta a la izquierda de la pared. diedro tecnico/technical dihedral .35 m long ROUTE BOLTED BY MARK GRUNDON ,FA AND FFA.

Last route on your right.

Permadraws at anchor (nov'22).

Climb the "horn". Anchor on the head wall next to the big horn.

14 bolts + 2 permanent lower-offs (may '22)

A very well bolted line on the climbtech hangers. Follow the weakness to the top of the buttress. Please be careful when on ledges for loose pebbles.

Start 5 feet left of cuba libre and follow the steel up the grey face to obvious side pull blocks at the 4th bolt.

Hay un techo a la mitad de la ruta. Goes up the slab and over a small roof to the anchor.

Comienza la ruta por un recoveco amplio, hacia una zona con tufas pequeñas y roca suave, es mejor escalar por la izquierda. La pared se vuelve como placa pero con buena adherencia. Buena para calentar!!

2 ropes recommended.

30ft left of "Camino de Oro" follow a trail left (sometimes hard to see) until it hits the wall again. Shares last bolts with "Camino de Oro".

Pitch 1: Start up an easy slab climbing cool features. Follow the weakness up and slightly right until you can gain a small ledge and belay. 10 bolts 5.7

Pitch 2: Move straight up off the belay through fun face and crack climbing. Top out on the slab then move up to a fantastic ledge and belay. 15 bolts 5.10a

This route is located about 10 meters right of Sky Top Buttress. The last route on the right hand side of El Mirador. Use the approach for Sky Top.

Bolts. Rap the route.

TR the left side of the wall from the anchors of "Coatimundi".

Climb Yogi's Pillar on the right side.

PARA PODER ACCEDER A ESTA PARED, ENTRA AL AREA DE ALBERCAS, Y EN LA PARTE CENTRAL VAS A VER UNAS ESCALERAS DE PIEDRA EN LA PARTE DE ABAJO A LA ALTURA DEL PILAR PRINCIPAL DONDE ESTA LIBERTAD Y YOGIS. SUBE POR ESAS ESCALERAS Y LLEGA A UN CHORREADERO DE GRANDES ROCAS, TOMA EL LADO IZQUIERDO Y COMIENZA A SUBIR APROXIMADAMENTE 5 MINUTOS, Y TE LLEVARA DIRECTO A LA BASE DE ESAS RUTAS.

-YOGI GOES TO MEXICO (MULTIPITCH) -WHEN THE CATS AWAYS THE RATS WILL PLAY (MULTIPITCH) -EL TIUCACHE -COATIMUNDI (COATI)

Starts right behind a concrete picnic BBQ/table.

Be careful at the finish (last bolt) to stay right, else you'll finish on the anchors of "Redheaded Stepchild".

Same start as "The Great Baldini", but branches right afetr the 3rd bolt.

Super Sweet 5.10a

Climb the obvious crack and then over the bulge at the top.

Excelente 5.10a

Subes por una grieta obvia y luego escalas una panza en la parte superior.

Climb the thin crack just right of "Mr. Hanky", and shares anchor with it.

Escalas la grieta delgada a la derecha de "Mr. Hanky" y comparte reunión con ella.

Shares first 3 bolts with Alley Cat and intermediate anchors. Then climbs up and right onto the face.

Comparte las primeras 3 placas con Alley Cat y reunión intermedia. Luego escalas arriba y a la derecha porbla placa.

Ed (FA) say 5.10b/c, Dane say 5.9.

Ed (FA) say 5.10b. Dane says 5.9.

Last (upper most) route on “Venom Wall”.

Última (de más arriba) ruta en "Venom Wall".

Has a metal nameplate on the wall.

Tiene placa metálica con el nombre en la pared.

Latest cleanup performed March 27th, 2022

Última limpieza realizada en Marzo 27, 2022

From last bolt to the anchor aim to arrive on the right side of the anchor.

De la última placa a la reunión intenta llegar por el lado derecho de la reunión.

Has a metal nameplate on the wall.

Tiene placa con el nombre en la pared.

Bring a couple of long draws for the 9th and 10th bolt if you have them.

Si puedes, lleva un par de bandas(cintas) largas para las placas 9 y 10.

Latest cleanup on March 20th, 2022

Limpieza más reciente en Marzo 20, 2022

Spoiler alert: *run-out on easy terrain from 8th to 9th bolt.

*hebra en terreno tranquilo de la placa 8 a la 9.

No more loose rocks and thorny plants, Enjoy!

Ya sin piedra suelta ni plantas espinozas, Disfruten!

Has a metal nameplate on the wall.

Tiene placa metálica con el nombre en la pared.

Latest cleanup performed March 20th 2022

Ultima limpieza realizada en Marzo 20, 2022

Climb clean face to obvious overhang, pull overhang and finish up slab above to anchors.

Recomended 80m rope. Knot the end of your rope.

With shorter than an 80m rope, bring 2nd up and rappel twice using the anchor of "Flying Scorpions" to the right.

With a long/stretchy 70m rope, and a heavy climber, you might make it within acceptable scrambling distance of the ground.

Starts below a detached block about 8feet up the wall, five feet right of A Gringo Ate My Baby, then heads up and slightly left to a thin crack.

A bit run-out in places.

Another classic in EPC. Climbs the big obvious flake feature. Don't wander onto the face, just really get into that crack.

Dane's book puts this as 5.11c, and Simeon copies this error. Ed and Frank give it 5.10c. If it is 5.10c, it is the softest 5.10c in the world.

Comparte reunion con XL Puff Sneaker

This route has been eliminated due to a dangerous loose block.

About 5m left of Space Boyz. Technical slab climbing.

1. 5.9 25m. Slab.

2. 5.10a 25m. More slab, a bit steeper.

Climb the obvious clean water streak right of the Jungle Boy roof, on the generally left side of the wall. Used to access the "Jungle Bowl".

(Dane's book describes this as run-out, and pitch 3 is listed as 5.9R in Ed's book -- but it has been re-bolted and is no more run-out than normal for EPC.)

1. 5.9+ Getting to the first bolt is not a cruise. The crux hides near the end, guarded by a single polished foothold.

2. 5.9 Mostly positive holds with a slight crux.

3. 5.9 More of the same.

4. 5.10a Technical traverse into sustained climbing until you've pulled the bulge.

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

Climb up on the slab of Cryin Brian and follow the corner left until the anchor of Grocals.

Starts on the slab right of the palm tree and goes up right to the first anchor. From there follow the airy arrete to the top. Each pitch 6 bolts.

retro-bolted trad route

retro-bolted trad route. Fun movement, but generally easy climbing.

Pitch 1 10a Pitch 2 10a Pitch 3 5.9

Old trad route that has been bolted. Follows the left trending crack.

From the top of the 4th pitch you can use the 5th pitch which climbs up and over a bit of a scramble to a garden area above.

Starts 10 yards uphill from Empanada and climbs thru A-frame roof.

Awkward bolt placements. Anchors on top of small ledge.

Shares the start with "Honor Among Thieves", then branches left up a face after bolt 2 to an anchor higher up on the left.

Climbs up solid grey rock just left of Tami's Pillar. Has a name plate at the start.

5.10d if you just climb the crack and don't use the arete.

Climbs the edge to the right of La Pantera Rosa, then up some face to an orange/white patch, then trends left to the anchor shared with La Pantera Rosa.

Starts near the upper end of the Los Lobos wall, just a bit right (downhill) of the Estrellita rappel route. Has a name plate, and a clear left-facing corner on pitch 2.

1. 5.8 30m. Climb up a broken pillar leaning against the wall to a good ledge.

2. 5.9 25m. Climb up over a small roof then follow a left-facing corner with some tough layback moves.

3. 5.9 40m. Climb consistently good movement past an intermediate rappel anchor to a belay in an alcove.

4. 5.10a 15m. Step down and right from the alcove onto the steep face, then up to the top of the ridge.

Descent: with a 70m rope, rappel from the top anchors to the intermediate anchors on P3 (35m rappel), then to the ledge at the top of P1. (With a 60m rope (ugh), it might take 5 rappels.) With double 60m's rappel to the top of pitch two, then to the ground.

Ruta algo sostenida con movimientos exigentes dignos de un 10a. Grieta que va hacia la izquierda.

Crack that goes left.

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Never Cry Wolf", climb straight up from the anchor on "gold" hangers.

filo ancho

Principio facil y un buen final rudo.

Ruta a la derecha del pilar, una grieta.

5 bolts + 2 anchor

Ruta con inicio de equilibrio.

Después de un boulder de una roca alta, está el primer bolt

Grieta hacia la izquierda

Ruta divertida, buenos agarres de dedos.

Ruta técnica, pocos descansos naturales, con un par de hebras de casi 3 metros. Starts just left of the blocks with a low first bolt and follows left of the crack higher up.

Placa a la izquiera del dihedro, va hacia la derecha en el pequeño desplome.