Routes in Middle East

Starts off a block attached to the ramp.

#kneepad

Bouldery start leads to easier climbing

The nice route up to the highest point on the crag. For the 6a+ grade climb slightly left near to top to join Egatiki. Finish direct (tricky for the short) and collect 6b.

Technical moves off the ground that move up into a pocketed face.

2-bolt anchor without a chain.

leftmost route

Has some of the most solid rock at the crag. Sit or stand start and go straight up the face on small and large pockets. A committing top out.

Vertical.

Lefthand finish variation of 'Crack the System'.

A hard over hang either direct or layback to a sustained crack then traverse right. Cleaning your quick draws coming down will be tricky due to the traverse.

bolts and anchors fixed july 2020. missing cord between bolts in the anchor

anchor fixed June 2020

1st bolt missing.

Missing anchor

Super nice, could be one of the best 6b routes in Geyikbayırı with tufa and a steep jug haul!

pitch 1 7 bolts | pitch 2 8 bolts

Not to be confused with "The Beauty"

Approach: At the west end of Kharazeh canyon. 2 hours from rakabat east, 1.5 if you know where your going. (1 hour from the village?) From the top of Goats gully head north along a plateau. Head up the scree slope. When you reach the bottom of the face you will see an the bolted climb "the glory", scramble/climb up and round left to reach the easy but exposed ramps of the first pitch.

P1: f3, ramps, un-protectable (or pointless to protect). Head up and right to the bottom of P2 and where the climb splits into scarlet o hara.

P2: f5, a tricky move to get over the bulge then a walk to the base of P3

P3: f4, (30-40m) a beautiful sustained low angle corner crack which gets wider at the top. Two #3's can protect the top 1/3 of the crack. Finishing at a large thread.

Descent: Possible to 60m repel to the base of P2. The guide book suggest a 40m repel and walk off to another area (un-checked). Down climb P1.

Kaçkar has common start beginning with Verçenik, near the top of Verçenik Kaçkar separates to the left side and up

Düşen düşene is a wonderful route that starts on huge jug rails and pulls over a bulge 5 meters off the ground. More steep climbing will get you to a ledge 10 meters up the wall. An anchor is located just beyond this point and is clearly visible from the ground.

Düşen düşene is a wonderful route that starts on huge jug rails and pulls over a bulge 5 meters off the ground. More steep climbing will get you to a ledge 10 meters up the wall. An anchor is located just beyond this point and is clearly visible from the ground.

#38

Boyan is a tragically bolted sport route that traverses across what should have been multiple, quality lines and creates numerous opportunities to Z clip while at the same time being brutal on your gear to clean whrn lowering. On the plus side this route does provide a convenient midpoint anchor for the very enjoyable traditional route Akçaabat Helvası. Start on quality face climbing up a 10 meter vertical section of wall. Traverse left on thin holds and fragile rock to reach an anchor located near the prominent inside corner crack.

Location Boyan located 33 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the crag. Look for a line of bolts in light color rock 3 meters right of the prominent inside corner crack.

Protection 14 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Godesbana Ext. is a enjoyable 40 meter route that climbs a moderate angled face with nice holds and a handful of slopers. Start with a short vertical section of rock and continue past three bulges to reach an intermediate anchor. Continue up the vertical face on technical moves before reaching large holds that give easy access to an anchor located near the top of the wall.

Location Godesbana Ext. is located in the middle of the sector. This climb starts directly above a medium sized pine tree at the base of the cliff and on the uphill side of the trail.

Protection 21 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Start with the right side of the ledge with a left heel-hook and go to the triangle shaped feature. Exit through Pim Pam Pom.

An outstanding route, varied and takes the one obvious natural line on this wall. The first half is straightforward, but with nice moves. The technical crux is the slightly overhanging and blank wall above, split by the narrowest of cracks. This is followed by powerful moves over an overhang, followed by thankfully easier climbing to the top. Was 6c+, but is now given 7a after the loss of a key jug at the end of the crux.

Really nice route with a bouldery crux at one third height; take on the left of the bulge for full tick; deduct half a grade if go right close to Midheia.