Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Fiordland Little Babylon | |||||||
25 | ★★ International Turkey Patrol | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Nov 2021 | |||
2 days of getting spanked on this 😂
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21 | ★ Multitude | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Nov 2018 | |||
Good fun climb
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Fiordland Babylon Right Hand Wall | |||||||
28 | ★★ The Random Element | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Feb 2022 | |||
Linked all the moves besides the crux.
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Fiordland Babylon Left Hand Wall | |||||||
17 |
★ The Groper (The Groper P1)
1
17
12m
| 12m | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Feb 2022 | |||
Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Fiordland Darran Mountains Homer Hut Area Shotwell Slabs | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Eureka
- with
Steve Brown
1
20
35m
2
20
50m
3
17
50m
4
18
50m
5
15
35m
| 220m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th Dec 2021 | |||
Great route! Gonna have to come back to redpoint the first pitch! 😢 foot popped off the smear..
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19 |
★★ Twelve Good Summers Variation
1
16
2
16
3
19
4
18
| 140m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Feb 2022 | |||
Combined first two pitches. Fun climbing.
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19 |
★★ Twelve Good Summers
1
16
40
2
19
40
3
17
40
| 120m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Nov 2020 | |||
Third attempt at finishing this climb off. Excellent climb, is actually four pitches goes at 16-16-19-17. Cool slab climbing!
First attempt didn’t have the right gear, second; snowstorm came in and made a quick retreat. Third times the charm! |
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Fiordland The Chasm | |||||||
25 | ★ Roaming Warrior | 20m, 7 | Average | Sat 18th Dec 2021 | |||
About grade 19 to the crux. Effectively a hard boulder on a rope. No feet, big moves.
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19 |
★★ Contact Neurosis (Contact Neurosis P1)
- with
Steve Brown
1
19
20m
| 20m, 15 | Average | Sat 18th Dec 2021 | |||
16? That’s a sandbag and a half.
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Fiordland Borland Valley The Dusk Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Eventide | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Apr 2022 | |||
First ascent. Boulder crux move, V3/V4. Really cool, ends up into an opposing pressure double gaston with bad feet and small holds. Could be a potentially harder grade than 23.
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Fiordland Borland Valley Confluence Crags The Den | |||||||
17 | ★ Mary had a little Jamb | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Apr 2022 | |||
Bottom part is pretty eh. However, it steadily improves in rock quality as the climb goes up.
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Fiordland Borland Valley Confluence Crags The Watchtower | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Low Voltage | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | |||
Blew the flash, Pumped out just before the last bolt before the anchor.
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23 | ★★★ Low Voltage | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Feb 2022 | |||
Keep falling on the same spot… just one more sequence then the rest jug… pumpy as!
|
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23 | ★ Energetic Disassembly | 18m, 5 | Don't Bother | Mon 7th Feb 2022 | |||
Not worth the risk. Stupidly bolted.
|
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Fiordland Borland Valley Confluence Crags Split Persona Area | |||||||
19 | ★★ Spin | 22m, 6 | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | ||||
More superb rock quality! really good moves through overlaps. Tricky moves with rest in between. Makes it a wee bit easier.
|
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19 | ★★ Spin | 22m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | |||
Showing around
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns North End Slabs | |||||||
17 | ★ Slick Arete | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | Sat 27th Feb 2021 | |||
19 | ★ The Johnny’s | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | Sun 27th Feb 2022 | |||
Lots of pressing
|
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19 | ★ Slab de Jour | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | Sun 27th Feb 2022 | |||
Fell on this one a long time ago!
|
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns North End Buttress | |||||||
16 19 | ★ Fin Tingers | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | Sat 27th Feb 2021 | |||
15 | ★ Get in Behind ya Bastard | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | Sat 27th Feb 2021 | |||
Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns Theo’s Gully | |||||||
22 | ★★ Family Engagements | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Apr 2021 | |||
FFA. Awesome route. Uses an arsenal of moves. Hope you have shoulders for the crux press.
|
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns Sycophrantic Arête | |||||||
22 22/23 | ★★ Al Ritchie's Open Project (1995) | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Feb 2022 | |||
Tricky to grade. Suggests 24 in the old CD guidebook from 2004-2006. Though could be between 22-24. Great climbing, worked the moves on top-rope. Quite staunch climbing, very varied to typical Castledowns style.
|
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20 | ★★ The Climb With No Name | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | Sat 12th Feb 2022 | |||
Cool climb. One hard sequence. Fairly burley and pumpy.
|
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20 | ★★ The Climb With No Name | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | Sun 20th Feb 2022 | |||
Repeat. All us went up to get across to the open project. This line is a good warmup for it.
|
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21 | ★★ Sycophrantic | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Feb 2022 | |||
Old school! Such wicked moves up the pocketed rock! Recommend to anyone. Though incredibly hard to onsight.
|
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns Politics Wall | |||||||
15 | ★ The Unknown Slab | 12m, 3 | Sat 12th Jun 2021 | ||||
Bolts are old, had no hangers. Led on clove-hitched cord. Tree anchor.
|
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23 | ★★ Sad State of the Socialist State | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Feb 2022 | |||
Super hard steep slab! Very hard for the grade!
|
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20 | ★ Writer's Blank | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Thu 18th Oct 2018 | |||
Tricky start, an "Apparent" 16. Though, much like castledowns is, very slabby and very choosy. However Its an awesome traverse with an intresting finish
|
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16 | ★ Slip-Slop-Splat | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Feb 2022 | |||
The triple mantle boulder problem 😂
|
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns Gravitron Gully | |||||||
16 | ★★ Feminist Wiles | 15m | Average | Wed 25th Apr 2018 | |||
Average climb, first slab makes it tricky until you find the magic holds.
|
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16 | ★★ Feminist Wiles | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | |||
One of the best 16s around
|
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns Classic Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ The Dead Go Direct/The Dead Goat Arête | 18m | ★ Good | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | |||
Typical Castledowns 16! Would be a 18/19 in Wanaka
|
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16 | ★★ The Dead Go Direct/The Dead Goat Arête | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Feb 2022 | |||
Warmup.
|
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns The Shelf | |||||||
15 | Self Propelled Undies | 12m, 3 | Average | Sun 21st Oct 2018 | |||
Easy warm up
|
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20 | ★ Chicken-Shit | 12m | ★ Good | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | |||
Juggyesque pockets (they are deceiving) to a mantle. Afterwards is the mother of all mantles... is pretty darn hard
|
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23 | ★★ Omelette | 13m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Nov 2020 | |||
Awesome wee project! Though the crux is pretty intense! Maybe V3-V4 crux? Cut feet to 2 finger pocket to sloper side pull.
|
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23 | ★★ Omelette | 13m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Jun 2021 | |||
Beta sorted. Now just got to send. Powerful move.
|
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23 | ★★ Omelette | 13m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Jun 2021 | |||
Three attempts, couldn’t land the crux move. Next time.
|
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23 | ★★ Omelette | 13m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | |||
Classic route, pretty boulderery with pockets, slopers, jugs, sidepulls, and a mantle or two. Great quality. Stoked to send this after tearing the hamstring on it couple months back.
|
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns The Picnic Spot | |||||||
18 | ★★ Steam Punk | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Feb 2022 | |||
Start is quite boulderery. Makes it tad harder than 18.
|
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18 | ★★ Girl On A Swing | 11m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 27th May 2020 | |||
Don’t let the grade fool you, defiantly harder than an 18! Tense your core, layback the crack and search for a sloping pinch. Pleased to finally get the his after so many attempts in the past
|
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18 | ★★ Girl On A Swing | 11m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 11th Aug 2020 | |||
Can’t do a trip to castledowns without climbing GOAS
|
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18 | ★★ Girl On A Swing | 11m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | |||
Another ol lap of Girl on a Swing. Quality Castledowns test piece.
|
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21 | ★★ Welcome to the Jungle | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Aug 2020 | |||
Really fun climb, hidden holds in the bush, lots of smears and high steps, pull the bulge then the rest is sweet
|
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21 | ★★ Welcome to the Jungle | 17m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | |||
Another lap of a retro. Great climb on small crimpers, slopers, pinches.
|
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16 | ★ Shellfish Desires | 22m | Average | Thu 18th Oct 2018 | |||
First pitch is a piece of cake, second has a tricky start but after the crux becomes a piece of pie.
|
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16 | ★ Shellfish Desires | 22m | ★ Good | Wed 27th May 2020 | |||
16 | ★★ The Taxidermist | 9m | Wed 27th May 2020 | ||||
16 | ★★ The Taxidermist | 9m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Aug 2020 | |||
Castledowns, home to New Zealand’s hardest grade 16’s
|
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15 | ★ Womb With A View | 8m | Average | Wed 25th Apr 2018 | |||
Easy warm up climb
|
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15 | ★ Womb With A View | 8m | Average | Wed 27th May 2020 | |||
15 | ★ Womb With A View | 8m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Aug 2020 | |||
Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns Bunny Gully | |||||||
21 | ★ Suicide Bunny | 13m | ★ Good | Sun 31st Jan 2021 | |||
Bit loose and dirty, will send next time hopefully!
|
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16 | ★★ Ron Burgandy | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | Wed 25th Apr 2018 | |||
Good start to test your balance, once you get over the ledge becomes a piece of cake
|
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16 | ★★ Ron Burgandy | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | |||
Retro laps
|
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17 | ★ Johnny Walker Wisdom | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | |||
Both of us felt that the crux move wasn't 17 lol. On the rap down, found the hidden hold super far to the right......
|
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16 | ★★ Never Say Nevis Again | 22m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Jan 2021 | |||
What a great line! Sustained fun smearing the entire route!
|
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19 | ★★ Kingston Flyer | 24m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Jan 2021 | |||
Classic, runout and ultra smearing. What a route! Classic test-piece. There is potential for horrendous falls so be careful!
|
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19 | ★★ Kingston Flyer | 24m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 18th Nov 2021 | |||
Retro flash. Super runout compression goodness. Easily one of the best routes around!
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns The Hauler Area | |||||||
21 | ★★ I Got The Whiskey Baby | 16m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Feb 2022 | |||
Cool crossover move.
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13 | ★ Cutting Your Teeth | 13m, 3 | ★ Good | Tue 11th Jun 2019 | |||
Good beginner route
|
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns Top Hat | |||||||
15 | ★ Royal Stool | 10m, 4 | Fri 22nd Jan 2021 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Ongaonga and The Wind are my Favourite Things | 12m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Jan 2021 | |||
Short and stout. This route will still bring a smile to your face.
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20 | ★ Jiggy With It | 8m, 3 | Fri 22nd Jan 2021 | ||||
Tricky rock over leads to delicate smears and a interesting thumb hold. Castle hill type of top out.
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Castledowns Covert Wall | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Covert Operation
1
14
15
2
16
15
3
16
30
| 60m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Jan 2021 | |||
Great route with a cheeky character. The covert area has big potential for the future!
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Murihiku / Southland Bluff Matai Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Perseverance | 12m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Feb 2021 | |||
Bout time I got back to finishing this. Name has reason. Super pumpy, though superb kneebar
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Matukituki Valley Wishbone Falls | |||||||
18 | ★★ Falls Middle | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Aug 2020 | |||
Good climb with slab by features to ledge the whole way up 🙂 good fun on a warm day. Wait for a day of sun to dry the rock! Awesome scenic spot!
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Matukituki Valley Pearly Gates | |||||||
17 |
★ Going with the Flow
1
17
60m
2
16
| 60m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Aug 2020 | |||
Bit run out. But bolts are where you need them, very enjoyable climb to get high quick! Deff recommend to others! Though make sure you get some sun for a day beforehand to let the footholds dry out! Maybe a brush could help too 😏
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Motatapu Valley Riverside Beginner’s Slab | |||||||
16 | ★ Generation X | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | Fri 6th Mar 2020 | |||
15 | ★ Super Size Me | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | Fri 6th Mar 2020 | |||
Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Diamond Lake Hotline Corner | |||||||
18 |
★ Hey George P1
1
18
15m
| 15m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jan 2022 | |||
Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Diamond Lake Diamond Slab | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Naked on the Neve (Naked on the Neve P1)
1
20
15m
| 15m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jan 2022 | |||
Just did the first pitch, second looks pretty average. For a 20 slab would expect something bit trickier, not to difficult.
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Diamond Lake Pencil Dick Wall | |||||||
20 | ★★ Stick It In | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jan 2022 | |||
Splitter bolted crack. Lots of jamming, super pumpy, great holds.
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22 | ★★★ Take No Prisoners | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Jan 2022 | |||
Classic, flash pumpy goodness! Techy face climbing on solid edges.
|
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18 | ★ Drop In, Drop Out | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jan 2022 | |||
Good warmup. Nice flowy route.
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat Kai Whaka Pai | |||||||
17 | ★★ Glen's Grotto | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Mar 2020 | |||
Very good climb, good start goes to easy middle to very engaging bridging and stemming!
|
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16 | ★ Journey Through Time | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Mar 2020 | |||
Very fun slab climb. Good moves throughout! Cramps and edging!
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17 | ★★ Climb Into The Unknown | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||
15 | ★★ Pulp Fiction | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | |||
Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat The Bakehouse | |||||||
18 | ★ The Meat in the Middle | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||
Pretty polished. Hard to read. No one got the onsight 😂
|
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17 | ★ Groover | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||
Very good line. Flowy. Great moves.
|
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17 | ★ Generic Betrayal | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | Sat 7th Mar 2020 | |||
Good climb, quite engaging on last sequence
|
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17 | ★ Generic Betrayal | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||
Cruisey to last move. Some thoughtful steps.
|
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17 | ★★ Stealing Candy From a Baby | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||
Good line. Big holds going through the wee roof
|
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14 | ★ Curiously Sheepish | 15m, 6 | Average | Sat 7th Mar 2020 | |||
Pretty basic warmup, nothing special.
|
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat The Icehouse | |||||||
20 | ★ The Cutting Edge | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Mar 2020 | |||
Very good featured face climbing! Edging and crimping the whole way up! Very fun! To round it off also first ever red point of a 20! Took 3 tries!
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat The Cutting | |||||||
22 | ★ Nothing But Scum | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | |||
All of us could flash the route to the anchor. None could clip the anchors. Though the last bolt is 40cm below the anchor, assuming that you clip the last bolt, then the climb is done, then clip through anchor. Unless the actual crux is clipping the anchor?
|
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21 | ★ Perineal Massage | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | |||
Pumpy jugs
|
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat Sunnyside | |||||||
22 | ★★ Shark Chirac | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Oct 2021 | |||
Hopefully get redpoint tomorrow
|
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22 | ★★ Shark Chirac | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | |||
Yay first 22 of the lead season. First redpoint burn ☺️
|
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20 | ★ Mum's on the Run | 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Oct 2021 | |||
20 | ★ Mum's on the Run | 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | |||
Foot popped. Almost flipped upside down 😬 saved myself by having my foot off to push off… not my greatest moment.
|
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25 | ★ Power Curve | 18m, 5 | Mon 28th Jun 2021 | ||||
Stuck the 'jug' after a few attempts. Need a few red-point burns once I'm back in Wanaka.
|
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21 | ★ 74HQ | 16m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Jun 2021 | |||
21 | ★ 74HQ | 16m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Oct 2021 | |||
17 | ★★ El Niño (El Nino) | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Jan 2019 | |||
Nice line following a pretty tight crack
|
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Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat The Conservatory | |||||||
19 | ★ Sharp Shooter (??) | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | Sat 9th Oct 2021 | |||
16 | ★★ Sweet Sixteen | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Oct 2021 | |||
16 | Clean Sweep | 15m, 4 | Tue 19th May 2020 |