Ascents in Kawakawa Bay as trad by John Pitcairn

Aidan's idea, quite pleased I wasn't leading it, dirty as and very very chossy to the left. Some was sent down to terrify the belayer, much remains up there. Got harness gear well stuck in a small manuka and came off, removed it. Crux is cleanish, very balancy and possibly harder than 18. P2 anchor is a pair of surprise carrots. One strand of access hand line is getting a bit core shot. Memorable in the wrong way. Distracted ourselves with more track fairy work down below.

Stuffed myself in too far at the start. The kowhai is an arse and really needs a prune. Found even more gear through the "run out" cave section. Went and looked at the terrifying upper bluff rockfall.

Had led before as a DHMK linkup. Bloody great jamming and bridging. Only let down by a sandy unprotected traverse in and loose topout. Started up GOTG to avoid the grot, long sling on the DHMK anchor and the bolt before it. We sent a few missiles down. Fixed up the core shot GOTG hand line then rapped down that.

Rope soloed on a shunt and backup knots after an epic hot cleaning session. Still a bit gritty yet, needs some rain. Gonna be good to lead, might be 19.

Thin crack only at start. Great jamming up top. Borrowed Justin's black totem, perfect size for shattered bit.

Thanks to Aidan for the clean! The closest thing to quarry climbing you'll get here. The big midway flake is now starting to hinge outward at its midpoint, it needs to be removed soon.

Back to get it, a hell of a fight. Suckers you by starting easy then getting slowly harder until you're packed into a strenuous jam/undercling with very high feet out at the crux. The step around/down (maybe there is another option here) to the vertical crack needed a lot of willpower, then took an age to protect it while wrecked. The "trad belay" seems dodgy due to a hollow sounding block and limited options, kept going to anchors with solid rope drag, belayed with poor comms. Harder than Hecklers I reckon, need more opinions.

Towed a #5 up here but it's only really useful to protect the wide start until you get a good high hex. A few jamming/offwidth skills will go a long way. Stays fairly clean, and there's a bolted anchor.

Continuing the dirty 'ol trad research project. Harder than it looks. Didn't hate it.

Rather good. Headed right after first bolt, some sketch getting back on line. Nose bolts a bit tempting. Surprisingly clean for a mixed route.

Nice line, could use a brush.

Out here for urgent track safety work. Great long route, let down by a dirty top third (take a brush). Lowered Jonno then brought G up, time flew by.

Snuck in before the sun started cooking the wall.

Attempting to get a couple more in before dark. Body said please stop.

A bit of dirt in the crack dogleg. Put a nut in the jam there, had to remove it and place a lower cam. Skipped all the top bolts, finished to Korimako anchor.

The Angela move for the win. Don't stuff yourself in.

I still bloody love this even after a visit to Arapiles. Still clean enough. Scrape the thin crack out a little for gear at the crux.

Getting a tad lichenous through the middle crack. Prob 18 in its current state.

1pm start, still a tad slippery in places after overnight rain. Couldn't get Jonno's nut out of Flake 7 on the way down.

Adventure climbing in failing light. Spiderwebs, bushes, lichen, runout, tree anchor, wouldn't have it any other way. Needed a wee swim after, brrr.

Right face in middle could use a scrub. Jonno has left some booty at crux if anyone can get it out.

Harder than I remember through middle. Missed the good foot out right.

Thin crack only at start.

Back-cleaned a #1 and #3. Doubles at those sizes would make sense.

This is so good. Took quite an effort after no climbing for 2 months. A clean of the right face would help find more rests.

Always good. Still pretty clean, present me thanks past me.

Quite a change in character after Korimako...

Late start, a bit cold and stiff, foot jamming not very welcome. Neither of us feeling very enthusiastic, back to camp for lunch and pack up.

Group Sex Panther. Started up late in the day, led as one pitch with some nervy moments avoiding the loose block at midway. Settled in at sunset for a lengthy belay session bringing up three seconds, watched the moon rise, then we all had a headlamp strobe disco on the ledge. Back to camp around 8.30pm. Thanks to Matt for the extra rope.

Possibly the least gear I have ever placed on this at 5 pieces, but I was bumping the single #3 cam. The block at the bottom is not loose, but it is fairly hollow. There is a good 0.3 cam as alternative first piece just below it.

Quite a bit trickier than it looks, and really good. Some difficult off-balance jamming through the corner, then eases up top. A full double rack is overkill unless you want to stitch it up, but doubles of 0.4 thru 1 may be handy. The 2 bolts are just an annoyance.

Committing. Up the slab solo until the corner and #1 nut. A cam behind the crux flake is avoidable with a decent blue totem in a small flaring slot at its bottom right, ball nut in a thin crack a bit below and right (didn't have any), and a nut in the flake at half height, then a stance and gear above. Top of the flake definitely flexing a little. A #4 wouldn't hurt at the top (didn't have that either).

Bloody great. Right face could really use a scrub. Gareth seconded clean, good effort. We could see and hear Katie and Joe up at the crux on the Odyssey.

Sun broke out halfway which prompted quite a speedup. Staying clean enough, though you'll always have to dig out the thin crack a little around the crux.

Lugged the trad gear out, warmup. Crack pretty clean.

Been a while. A lovely climb, great passive gear at the crux, though now not sure about that upgrade. Felt solid 18.

No cams used. Tricams handy to protect the top but there is probably some nut-craft available if you want to be even slower...

It's not 2 stars but it's definitely worth doing. There is sufficient gear in the "runout" cave section if you use your eyes and brain.

Final morning warmup. Bloody nice.

Good lead from Gareth. Unparalleled VCS dialed in nicely now, the forefoot sensitivity coming on strong, toe-top rubber is good in a crack.

Warmup, allegedly. Nearly came off at crux 2, wake up!

Needs a bit of a sweep. Didn't take enough #3s (take two), managed to overcam a shonky 4. Top protects well with a #2 nut then 0.2 and 0.1 alien.

Used the Angela high-step beta at the crux, which keeps you out of the trench and more mobile. Great fun, good gear, nothing bigger than #3 needed.

Thin crack only at the start for a bit of stiffening.

Obligatory post-arrival run in the evening.

Compulsory on every trip ... jammed as much as possible, slung the block, one #4, one #3.

Eating my own dog food, setting up for a mock-lead for Paul. The kōwhai needs attention again, it makes things harder, the resilient wee bugger.

Bloody good, and the upgrade is deserved. 2-3 cruxes and quite committing. Watched the sun set while belaying from the top.