Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown | |||||||||
14 | ★ 30 Pieces of Silver | 8m | Smiths Rock | Fri 6th Jun 2003 | |||||
16 | ★★ Steel Caps | 25m | Smiths Rock | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Feb 2005 | ||||
Nice long crusy route
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18 | ★★ Frontal Attack | 15m | Smiths Rock | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Feb 2005 | ||||
Easy once on the arete
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15 | ★ Anniversary | 15m | Smiths Rock | ★ Good | Mon 7th Feb 2005 | ||||
nice chimney
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16 | Right Rib | 9m | Bayley Road | Wed 3rd Feb 2010 | |||||
15 | ★ Clip, Climb, Crash | 10m | Bayley Road | Fri 5th Feb 2010 | |||||
Trad | |||||||||
24 | ★★ Daylight Dilemma - with Romain | 170m, 55 | Tairua Crag | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Mar 2019 | ||||
Note that all the odd numbered pitches, are 20 or harder, the evens are 19 or easier. By offering first lead to your partner you can get an easy ride up this massive route; thanks Romain! All clean except perhaps for a bit of top rope tension assistance on the burly first 24 pitch.
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20 | ★ Pride of the South | 45m, 11 | Whakapapa Gorge | Tue 30th Jun 2020 | |||||
20 | ★ Pride of the South - with Julian Goad | 45m, 11 | Whakapapa Gorge | Sun 30th Jan 2022 | |||||
19 |
★ Pride of the South (Pride of the South Linkup Scoopage)
2
19
20m
| 20m, 11 | Whakapapa Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | ||||
Nice moves in the 2nd pitch! Climbed 1st pitch of Scoopage and 2nd pitch of this climb as one long pitch. Clipped anchor and crux bolt but found good gear so didn't use 3 of the bolts, not sure they are all needed.
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12 | ★★★ Scramble Eggs - with Brett Gardner | 60m, 6 | Tukino | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | |||||
17 | ★★★ Potions Master - with Jonno Rau | 35m, 6 | Tukino | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Dec 2023 | ||||
Nice lead from Jonno. Great route, reminiscent of Arapiles watchtower slabbing. Left the anchor in place for convenience.
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22 | ★★ Aimless | 25m, 6 | Whanganui Bay | ★★★ Classic | Thu 13th Jun 2024 | ||||
Should be considered a classic now that it has an extra bolt—so you don't need the gear. It is still an engaging climb and after the obligatory damp Plateau slab at the bottom the climbing is excellent.
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23 | ★★ Sister Europe | 20m, 5 | Whanganui Bay | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Jun 2024 | ||||
Retroflash. Great pocket route.
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24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie | 14m, 4 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Thu 9th Apr 2015 | |||||
16 | ★ Sweet Sixteen - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 4 | Tukino | Average | Sat 16th Dec 2023 | ||||
Trickyish start. Didn't float my boat.
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19 | ★★ Koruba | 14m, 3 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Aug 2009 | ||||
12 | ★★★ Meads wall traverse | 120m, 3 | Mead's Wall | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Jan 2024 | ||||
17 | ★ Atomic Rooster - with Grant Johnston | 10m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Jul 2018 | ||||
Better overall than Frenz, and the bottom moves are harder especially if you stop to get a high piece in before committing.
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17 | ★ Atomic Rooster | 10m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Sep 2018 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Hat Trick - with Wayne | 35m, 2 | Tukino | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Feb 2019 | ||||
Really cool, engaging route. Easier to the first bolt than expected, this route has two cruxes. Decently exposed feeling. Good variety of moves and gear. Small cams and nuts are very useful as are alpine draws. Rapped off to make cleaning a cam that walked easier, plenty of rope left with a 60m from the boulder we rapped from.
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19 | ★★ Quarry Climbing | 12m, 2 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Feb 2020 | ||||
Awesome layback climbing and super solid gear placements. A few crux moves towards midway, in between the 2 cracks.
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18 | ★ Zig | 14m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | Mon 6th Jan 2020 | |||||
20 | ★ His | 12m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Sun 1st Nov 2020 | ||||
24 | ★★ Jabbar the Hutt | 20m, 2 | Ti Point | ★ Good | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
Went up it after Neil had gotten some chalk on the holds and cleaned up the top. Cool crux sequence on some decent holds with the slopey top holds giving it some sting in the tail. We both thought it felt more like 24.
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21 20 | ★ His | 12m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Nov 2021 | ||||
Face variation. Using the left wall to stem seems 19/20 (especially if you're tall). Great climb going either way.
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17 | ★ Atomic Rooster - with Alex Popinga | 10m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | Sat 20th Nov 2021 | |||||
First mixed route placing gear
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17 | ★ Atomic Rooster | 10m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | Fri 26th Nov 2021 | |||||
18 | ★ Zig | 14m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | Sun 26th Jun 2022 | |||||
16 | ★ Shelob | 35m, 2 | Karangahake Gorge | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | |||||
16 | ★ Mad Carew direct | 20m, 2 | Karangahake Gorge | Sun 5th Nov 2023 | |||||
18 | ★ Crackerjack | 12m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Fri 15th Dec 2023 | ||||
17 | ★ Atomic Rooster | 10m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | Sat 23rd Dec 2023 | |||||
16 | ★ Mad Carew direct | 20m, 2 | Karangahake Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Feb 2024 | ||||
16 | ★ Mad Carew direct | 20m, 2 | Karangahake Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 18th Feb 2024 | ||||
17 |
★ Finger of Fate
1
17
12m
2
16
8m
| 20m, 2 | Waipapa | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | |||||
18 Easy | ★ Crackerjack | 12m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 11th Jun 2024 | ||||
18 | ★ Dong | 7m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 27th Aug 2005 | ||||
Good technical moves from pockets to a nice horizontal break. Beware the rusty bolt and throw a friend in the break,
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18 | ★ Dong | 7m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Wed 21st Jan 2015 | |||||
14 16 | Serenity | 13m, 1 | Maungarei Springs | Average | Wed 3rd Jun 2020 | ||||
19 | ★★ Cracker | 14m, 1 | Baring Head | Crap | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | ||||
A terrible route, chossy, bad gear, annoying moves.
Not worth it
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17 | ★ Fremantle - with Vijay | 11m, 1 | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Mar 2023 | ||||
Big rock on top of ledge half way up is loose. Take care.
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15 | Nuts And Bolt | 14m, 1 | Tukino | Sun 12th Mar 2023 | |||||
16 | Serenity | 13m, 1 | Maungarei Springs | Mon 5th Jun 2023 | |||||
17 | ★★ Heroes - with Jonno Rau | 35m, 1 | Tukino | ★ Good | Sun 17th Dec 2023 | ||||
Think Jonno strayed too far right, missed the spike, exited right instead of left. Getting hot and blowy, time to leave. Keen to return and lead it.
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18 | ★★★ Millennium Madness (Millenium Madness) | 15m | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th May 2013 | ||||
Davies gear. Added a few bits.
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18 | ★★★ Millennium Madness (Millenium Madness) | 15m | Waipapa | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2010 | ||||
14 | ★ Elementary - with Angela Hewlett | 10m | Ti Point | Sun 18th Nov 2018 | |||||
Quick efficient placing of gear, most unlike me.
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18 | ★★★ Millennium Madness (Millenium Madness) | 15m | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Jun 2019 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Millennium Madness (Millenium Madness) | 15m | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Jun 2019 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Millennium Madness (Millenium Madness) | 15m | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Nov 2019 | ||||
Brillant climb, stoked to finally do it. Doubles of finger sized cams useful. Great pro and some nice feelings of a little bit of exposure.
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18 | ★ Natural Selection - with John Pitcairn | 26m | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Nov 2019 | ||||
Inspected this rapping off Human Intervention. Thought it would be tough but was seduced anyway. It did not disappoint in terms of difficulty. A very slow and tiring ascent.
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16 | And The Gods Made Love | 15m | Kawakawa Bay | Average | Mon 30th Dec 2019 | ||||
14 | ★ Riding the Sandworm | 9m | Maungarei Springs | Average | Tue 20th Jul 2021 | ||||
17 | ★ The Frenz Experiment | 10m | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Jul 2021 | ||||
15 | ★ Assagai | 12m | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | ||||
A bit run out at the top as said in the description, but the holds are good.
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17 | ★ The Frenz Experiment - with Alex Popinga | 10m | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Sat 20th Nov 2021 | ||||
First trad climb
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14 | ★ Riding the Sandworm - with Alex Popinga | 9m | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Dec 2021 | ||||
7 | ★ DragonFly - with Mila, Scott Marsh | 7m | Bowentown Heads | ★ Good | Wed 12th Jan 2022 | ||||
Set up the top rope for Mila, her first outdoor climb. Great potential all around. Keen for this place to be developed.
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14 | ★ Elementary | 10m | Ti Point | Sat 7th May 2022 | |||||
16 |
Century Plus Crack
1
14
12
2
16
15
| 27m | Ti Point | Sat 7th May 2022 | |||||
16 | ★ Wellington Womble Woute | 7m | Whanganui Bay | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Jul 2022 | ||||
16 | And The Gods Made Love | 15m | Kawakawa Bay | Sun 23rd Oct 2022 | |||||
14 | ★ Elementary | 10m | Ti Point | Fri 1st Jan 2010 | |||||
16 | ★ Wellington Womble Woute | 7m | Whanganui Bay | Sat 4th Apr 2009 | |||||
15 | Semi-Rad Trad Dad | 12m | Maungarei Springs | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | |||||
15 | ★ Assagai | 12m | Maungarei Springs | Mon 5th Jun 2023 | |||||
14 | ★ Riding the Sandworm | 9m | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Mon 5th Jun 2023 | ||||
16 | ★ Wellington Womble Woute | 7m | Whanganui Bay | Mon 9th Oct 2023 | |||||
17 | ★ The Frenz Experiment - with AJ Lee, Clément | 10m | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Nov 2023 | ||||
19 | ★★ John Hard - with Flo Roeske | 20m | Mead's Wall | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Feb 2024 | ||||
Did it on top rope. Fun route.
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15 | ★ Assagai | 12m | Maungarei Springs | Mon 12th Feb 2024 | |||||
18 | ★ Ridin' the 868 - with Andy Baird | 15m | Ti Point | Sat 17th Feb 2024 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Millennium Madness | 15m | Waipapa | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Millennium Madness - with Iker Sustatxa | 15m | Waipapa | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | |||||
14 |
★★ Thunder God P2
- with
Kiera Montgomery
2
14
| 52m | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jun 2024 | ||||
Accessed via rapping from Jugzilla, I have no regrets and it was fun! If a bit dirty. Plenty of foliage thriving in the crack.
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15 | ★ Assagai | 12m | Maungarei Springs | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 11th Jun 2024 | ||||
19 | ★★ Te mokomoko o Maungarei | 14m | Maungarei Springs | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 7th Jun 2024 | ||||
16 | ★★ Treebeard | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Aug 2005 | ||||
Fun hand jamming up one of the longest lines at the 'Short Side'.
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19 18 | ★★ Deffust | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 21st Mar 2006 | ||||
Great climb
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21 | ★★ Thimblerigger | 12m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Mon 26th Nov 2012 | ||||
19 | ★★ Flake 7 - with Grant Johnston | 20m | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Mar 2010 | ||||
Interesting and delicate. Was coached through the gear placement before the crux by Matthias, thanks.
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18 | ★★ Outboard Crack - with shichang | 20m | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jan 2014 | ||||
Really rather good
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20 | ★ Brain Damage - with Stephen Bailey | 7m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 22nd Oct 2014 | ||||
Perhaps a bit harder since the jug fell off some years back. Helps to be not too short - watch out on the bitey sharp hold that gets you through the top crux. Gonna be a fairly nervy lead I think.
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19 | ★★★ Reckless | 30m | Whanganui Bay | ★★★ Classic | Tue 6th Jan 2015 | ||||
Fun!
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17 | ★ Graveyard Groove | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Average | Tue 26th Jan 1999 | ||||
21 | ★★ Biggles Flies West | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Wed 26th Aug 2015 | ||||
21 | ★★ Revenge Of The Lawn | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 26th Jan 2002 | ||||
18 | ★★ Soliloquy | 16m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th Jan 2005 | ||||
19 | ★★ Bandersnatch | 11m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th Jan 2005 | ||||
14 | Jabba the Hut | 15m | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | 2015 | ||||
17 | ★ The Slot Machine - with Grant Johnston | 15m | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Jan 2016 | ||||
Rather better than it looks. Belayed Grant's onsight first. Hands a bit chewed afterwards but.
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18 19 | ★★ Flake 7 - with John Pitcairn, Angela Hewlett | 20m | Kawakawa Bay | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Jan 2016 | ||||
Was a bit scared of this one, and was probably trying to avoid it but seemed like it needed to be done. Managed it OK in the end.
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20 19 | ★★ Peanut Butter Jam | 10m | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Dec 2016 | ||||
17 16 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff | 28m | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Mon 6th Jun 2016 | ||||
19 | ★★ Samarcand | 9m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Dec 2015 | ||||
Nice finger cracks
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15 | ★ Gog | 7m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 31st Dec 2016 | ||||
15 | ★ Magog | 7m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 31st Dec 2016 | ||||
16 | Parallel Cracks | 7m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 31st Dec 2016 | ||||
16 | ★ Geoff's Dilemma | 7m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 31st Dec 2016 |