Routes as sport in Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island

The steep overhanging arete and prow. start up the hound boulder then continue up to a difficult boulder working from one arete to the other. will be the hardest climb in the N.I one day.

Climb the wraith, then continue through Koha breaking left through steep group to the top of the cliff.

Start at the spider, through infinite monkey, past crag vultures, reverse coma crux, finish up at the Coriolis/Retaillack anchors.

Boulder start then climb bad crack right of Batman.

Climb hound then trav up the face, not along the ledge, skipping the rest on BTl.

Easy (but often wet) slab leads to a steep boulder on a rope. Juggy fun to finish.

Climb the hanging pillar to get a quality first ascent.

Start as per Coriolis Effect/Immortal then head through the Coma cruxes and to the anchors. Seems to be 30 if you take the left coma crux or 29 if you take the first knee bar retaillack crux then head left to finish at the anchors of coma.

Start up Millennium Madness then continue straight up the thin seam. Head right through the roof and headwall.

climb facial reconstruction but continue around the corner into the crux of lanky. has a run out that is a bit scary and the name is possibly the worst in creation.

Direct start to 'Maddog Hine'

Traverse in from left of first bolt. Continue as for Minor Threat.

Start on first bolt of Eye of The Tiger then traverse left via big moves on mostly good holds to an okay rest, then fire up the sustained headwall on excellent rock.

An outrageous line that traverses from inside the cave through steep climbing and out at the far right lip of the overhang. Does anyone know who the original equipper was? Holds through the final section look manufactured. This one was re-bolted in 2020 but hasn't seen an FA yet as far as anyone knows

The bolted line left of Defrag. Boulder to the large undercling feature. after a shake, get horizontal out left, pull the lip and truck back right to the common anchor.

climb the wraith, continue to finish up Koha.

Start at the wet jug undercling then head left after the first boulder problem to the crimp rail, traverse left through a big move then mantel out left.

Start at the stack of rocks on some underclings, once through the bottom section take the left crux as per coma for 29 or the right crux as per retaillack for 28. Finishes at the same anchors as Retaillack

Start on the underclings as per crag vultures until you are in the double knee bar rest then traverse the crag on big holds to finish up on the coma anchors. (upgraded to 29 as per 8a.nu majority ticks)

the obvious extension to crooked vultures reversing coma, and finish on Coriolis.

Start up Arches break left and head up face, Through roof (knee bar) then continue straight up to DBC belay.

A continuation of double major drop out. after doing the small boulder off the ledge on DMD continue left into the top of Cerberus.

Direct start to hold on to your face. Technical face climbing.

the image on this is incorrect. this route has a seperate anchor to cerberus to the right.

Exemplary hard Froggatt 2 finger pocket pulling. Preclip the very high first (only) bolt and don't blow the mantle.

The steep overhang between Aliens 2nd pitch and Foo Fighter. Traverse in from the ledge (use the belay bolt to keep safe). Left knee pad or tape recommended. There are two great photo spots, depending on the light, next to the start of Jugzilla or at the anchor of Pointy Bit.

A route with some contentious creation questions. Is considerably harder now that one of the key crimps by the start has broken and the bolted on starting foothold has been removed.

A 'Defrag' variant. From underclings climb horizontal roof then back to small edges. Right ledge is out.

Start at the wet jug undercling, head straight up through an outrageous set of knee bars to the same anchors as Coriolis effect.

One of the hardest climbs here and a fairly surreal proposition up the blank glazed arête. Weird body-stemming gets you onto the bulge, then gallop up the corner and slightly right to a rest before applying wizardry up the hanging arête.

The left line from the ledge. Crimpy face climbing.

Link up of Ground Control and Major Tom. Climb Ground Control then head left, clipping a single bolt before joining Major Tom.

Originally named in honor of the English Rugby Victory over the All Blacks. Start up Stalemate to the 4th bolt. Pull left into the very shallow groove and follow this with difficulty past 4 bolts up a thin crack before stepping left onto small ledge. Pull back right onto the wall through small bulge and join the finish of Love Handle Expansion at it's 10th bolt. DBC belay of Love Handle Expansion. (First ascensionist had blinkers on and skipped the small ledge which makes it a bit harder)

Starts as for Handsome Julio, then heads directly up the grey face left of Hard Trad Specialist.

Climb the arching seam just right of the corner. Can place a cam otherwise catch some air time.

Start up the corner right of Immortality. Stroll up to the bulge. Up through tricky steep section(crux). Sustained climbing to the anchor.

Slab climb to dynamic finish to lip of the roof.

Start as for 'Maddog Hine' / 'Built to Last' and finish up 'Hold Onto Your Face'

The bolted arch.

Slab on the right with an overhanging start.

Direct start to Subterranean

Head up to the first bolt before traversing left, then up the middle of the bulging wall. Finishes up the tricky short arete.

"One of the best routes in NZ"

Left of Chapel of Ghouls. Direct start, 3 bolts then into the crux. Easier climbing to the roof and through to the anchors. Watch out for rope drag in the roof, extend the roof draw if possible.

Starts with 'New Wave' and heads up past there midway anchor. In the PDF guide its marked as two pitch route (28 30m, 23 15m).

Four bolts up to the ledge, then six more to the anchor. Quite hard to stop and clip around the second to last bolt.

The obvious rib, rib, shallow groove and corner system in the centre of the wall. Climb up the rib and move right into the shallow groove at the 5th bolt. Solve a thin, difficult crux sequence to reach a sloping ledge. Pull right into the corner section. Continue with thin, sustained climbing up the corner all the way to the top – awesome. Hard to on-sight at Gr27 but feels easier once solved.

Three boulders in a row with one involving a mono doigt to an easier finish. Climbs tothe same anchor as Tartarus.

From the back of the cave climb the vague arête. Avoid anything right of the diagonal crack, finish up Nobby's Cave.

Start up civil unrest, and girdle all the way to the top of fracking. Then untie and throw yourself off the cliff because this is so stupid.

Climbs the bottom line of holds as per the spider, then heads right to finish up with the mansard roof anchor.

A route of three sections. Relatively easy moves up to the steepness, then a compression boulder problem leads to inverted weirdness in the top groove.

The prominent central arête and one of the most impressive lines on the wall. start around the corner from Bloc Party in the shallow overhanging groove. Tackle this opening boulder with difficulty and then tip toe up the ramp to a steep section on good holds and to the ledge. Rest up on the ledge and then noodle your way up the steep and blank looming arête to the huge hueco and final face. Take caution on the arête crux as in the event of a tight belay it is possible to swing in and hit the ledge with some force.

The central line of Golden Wall. Start as for Ape to Angel but tackles the roof directly with a crushing finish. DBB as for Arturism.

Second pitch above Rattle and Hum ledge.

Follow the groove and it's right arete past the first 4 bolts with the crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts. Bridge up the upper grove past 3 more bolts then move right under the overhang to gain the small belay ledge, just under the large roof.

Climb the face then move right onto the blunt arete and follow this to the 1/2 way ledge (shared with Industrial Action). Climb up the right hand side of the square arete on poor feet, tiny crimps/pockets & 1 good finger jug to a final dead point for the ledge and finish. (No bridging out right into the corner of “Industrial Action”) Note the fall going for the first top ledge is safe but best not to fall heading up the easy ground from here. Upgraded from 26 to 27 due to recent ascents feedback.

Up the right side of the scoop. Tricky start bulge leads to small holds. Join Robin on the ledge.

Follow layback crack past 4 bolts. Continue up the arete. Move right and follow slab to belay.

An extension to 'Gauche mais pas Maladroit' Climb through the roof.

Steep start with small holds leads to very small holds above.

Fun start can be linked to Dirty Little Tripped Out Spaceship for an easier finish.

Start left of BB and head through roofs.