Routes in New Zealand for selected grade

Up the wide groove to reach the slopery crack.

Easy climbing on big holds to a dynamic finish. Being tall helps.

Starts on a short but technical slab which leads into the slightly overhung head wall. Technical sequences on good pockets leads to the crux just below the lip. Great climb for those wanting to push their grade.

Start as DU Hast and finish on the plate.

Tricky down low with a headwall that will have you saying Sacre Bleu!

Climb up the sustained arete.

Start under the overhanging flake, taking the undercling and facing the boulder problem to the first bolt. Once established on the route, head right and make your way up the face up to the anchor.

Steep powerful climbing on pockets leads to an exciting finish. Stay on the face for the grade.

Climb the bulges to the ledge. Crux is the steep bulge about the ledge. Then progresses through easier ground to a steep finish on large holds.

Three metres right of Mis-spent Youth, just left of a black streak. Prepared by Simon Middlemass eons ago, and climbed inadvertently. Hard start, then trend right on fingery holds. Five bolts, use Sunburst Finish anchors.

Follow the left arete upwards, technical moves and thin feet

Starts with a slab on good holds, which transitions into a lay back. This leads to a good rest at the top before tackling the roof through pumpy moves.

No 90 in 2009 Guide

No 83 in 2003 Guide (map 2)

Afternoon sun in winter

Start at the bottom beside Angel of Calcutta. A nice (hard) boulder problem starts after the second bolt and finishes at the fourth. Easy climbing to the top.

The fantastic face. Climb directly up the face. If you use the crack halfway up for a rest, as for ‘Jug Abuse’ or ‘Just Say No To Cracks’, the climb is a grade less. This climb is a pure line.

Very Polished. Has a bolt at the top. Walk off from the back.

Head up the slab into the slight dihedral corner, escaping right to a flat crimp. Delicately work your way up technical moves upwards to the large breaks and the anchor.

Right side of the roof

Start as HSE, finish with ROT.

As with many Waipari climbs, start on the slab and work your way up to the slightly overhanging face with bouldery moves.

Immensely satisfying climbing up the middle of the styly orange face and through the bulge slightly left before charging up the face.

Steep and hard before you get to the jugs and then easier terrain. A spicy final jaunt leads you to the anchors.

Hard start to easier but sustained face climbing above. Then easy head wall.

Climbing the arete through the roof and varying onto the headwall and face.

Stay left at the fifth bolt for the grade 24/25. Go right for the 23/24. Starts 1m right of TBFLA.

Two boulder problems split by a good rest.

Technical start up the crack leads to a relentless finish.

Bouldery start to crimpy face climbing, through a couple of overlaps.

Head up the lower slab before facing the bulge and the roof with sharp pockets. Once through the roof, good pockets and using your legs will bring you to the anchor.

Heads straight up the centre of the wall right of 'Yoda'. Tricky start to exciting finish.

Difficult moves through the bulge then cruise to the top.

Shares a start with Zoot Aloors, but head up and left after the ramp and climb the corner.

Climb up and slightly right. Sustained.

Starts in the corner to the left of Layer Cake and joins this route in the overhanging chimney.

P1: Bolts, wires, CD’s to #3.5. Climb the tree past three bolts and into the left-facing corner, or if wet use rungs. Follow the corner system then trend left on a black slab and then up towards a prominent nose. Underclings lead across the slab and underneath the nose to a bolt belay.

P2: The corner above, move right, then up past two bolts to a ledge. A right facing corner leads to the Chill-Out Ledge.

P3: From left-hand belay on Chill-Out Ledge, traverse left past three bolts, moving up at the third to a shallow corner. Continue on wires ‘til another bolt indicates an exposed traverse left to belay.

P4: The bolted wall above and left, good holds lead eventually lead to some tough slopers. Belay out left.

Right of right bastard

Slopey, steep, endurance climbing.

The face to the left of PBJ. Eliminate the ledge for full value.

Same start as Standing Ovation, taking the big sidepull, but uses handholds in the vertical crack only. Finishes on the same jugs.

P1: Start as for JAFA Cake, then move left at the 3rd bolt, up through the overhang (crux). Consider extending the next few bolts.

P2: Shares an anchor with Midnight Summer Dream.

Sit-start and go up good edges to easy topout. Good warmup.

Low traverse then up right arete

Easy slab on small wires, leads to a bulge with a small cam to protect the crux. Named after a mythological creature the Potarta that tickles feet and eats heads, which seemed kind of analogous to a climb with dubious gear and a slab to fall on.

Several metres back on the shelf you top out onto is the anchor to lower off.

Technical and delicate face climbing on open handholds. Originally graded 25/26 and climbed via the left-hand side of the first two bolts though climbing the right-hand side leads to easier ground. Downgraded due to community consensus.

Do the first couple of moves of Predator then go left up the blunt arete. Slightly right at 4th bolt then up.

Follow the overhanging arete.

A hard start leads to multiple cruxes high above the forest. Preclipping the first bolt might prove beneficial..

Right of Chez Royale, easy climbing up bulge to the half height ledge. Steep climbing on small holds to the top.

Start as for the Jug Left and finish straight up using a sloping dish. Right arete jugs are out.

Climbing the wall on sloping huecos to a tough move at the top, shares anchor with "gunga din"

Start on the big jug and follow the rest to the top of the rock.

Sit start to the left of the cave on the big block characterised by gold glue seeping down its side. Make a move RH to reach a sloping rail, then RH again to a crimp. From here, huck LH to a rail and execute an easy dyno to the top lip. The problem stays left of the right arête.

Steep jugs to tricky mantle, then up the a shared anchor with ETBROTC.

How to throw a wobbler 101. A properly technical and tantrum-inducing mantle-fest. Absolute classic and feels like V0 when you finally work out the beta.

Climbs the slightly overhanging face, left of Biggie Smalls. Consistant and tecky moves with a cool crux and mantle. Great photo spot out right.

coming soon - a hard right hand exit (sans mantle) *closed project

Climb the arête and finish with The Gecko. Two bolts, and a piece for the horizontal crack.

Middle of the Cheese Wall, snakes left through a slab section to a steep headwall. Nice variety of moves to DBB

Hard onsite, easy redpoint (with good conditions). Great photo spot up and right. Preclip the 1st bolt off the small boulder to avoid an awkward ground fall at the 1st crux.