Routes as sport in Te Waipounamu / The South Island

Climb The Autumn Tower to the fourth bolt before following the crack that cuts off diagonally right across the lower face of the wall to end by the bush.

A quality, bolted multi-pitch climb of varying styles, from moderate slabs, to roof, to an airy traverse and arete climbing. The pitches are fairly short as the route traverses across the features of the face. A single 60m rope and 11 quick draws is all that's needed. However it may be useful to bring an ascender or prussic to ascend the fixed line at the loop of the roof if the lip of the roof is wet (or too hard). Make sure the line is hanging where you want it prior to the second leaving the first pitch.

P1: Starts at right end of cliff, left of the gully which seperate The Den from The Perch. Climb past 2 bolts on vegetated ledge, then make crux move right to large fin feature, then back left to a ledge, and continue left to rings. Grade 18.

This pitch provides access to a broad slab and there is potential for new lines out of this slab and through the roof.

P2: Up clean face past 3 or 4 bolts to base of roof. Two bolts through roof, then difficult pull and mantle over lip of roof. Fixed rope is left in place to assist if the lip of the roof is wet or too difficult. Grade 24 or A0.

Be careful of rope snag in the constriction of the roof. Eventually we'll place a bolt above the roof to avoid this rope drag/snag. It may be worth bringing one #3 cam to mitigate the rope drag after the roof. Rings on nice belay ledge.

P3: Step across the ledge a few meters right of belay, then up through good face climbing before a nice move back left to good belay ledge and rings. Grade 16.

P4: The money pitch. Up past three bolts, then airy traverse right on orange rock under the roof passing 3 more bolts. Difficult move to anchor. Rings are placed low for the abseil and there are 2 bolt anchor above the rings for a more comfortable belay. Grade 19.

P5: Hard, high move off the belay, then right to ledge. From ledge climb through fractured rock and find (hidden) bolt to the left above the fractured section. Rings at the top. Grade 18.

Abseil: All belays are on ring bolts and can be abseiled from any belay on a single 60m rope. From the top it is three free hanging single rope abseils (although double ropes will get you down in two). Reaching the middle rings when descending from the top requires a little swing into the wall. The third, final rap is near the west edge of the wall and finishes just up from the start of Stash. Do not try this abseil on a 50m.

On the right side of the den off a ledge gained by using the orange fixed rope. Follow the quartz seam. Crux where it should be.

Head right out on the slab then head up the the large rounded flake. Bust through the overhang to the ribbed flake thing above.

Steep grey wall then up the red streak.

Start as for Foxy Red. Traverse left at second bolt along ledges to rad features and phat quartz dyke to the business end around the bulge.

P1: Climb excellent orange rock to rings. 24 P2: Continue up and right. 27

Note Over Motional Wobble (24) climbs left from the rings

Climb first pitch of Old Man Winter to the past bolt. Continue straight up orange wall just left of arete.

Start on the near vertical slab with moderate climbing to the third bolt. From here commit to a boulder problem crux, and climb to the top.

Start on the ring bolt anchor between Pro Rata and Dread Zone. Can be accessed from the ledge by rapping down to the Dread Zone anchor and then traversing across left.

The pitch is now fully bolted with fun, flowy moves.

Slab left of rungs.

P1: Bolts, wires, CD’s to #3.5. Climb the tree past three bolts and into the left-facing corner, or if wet use rungs. Follow the corner system then trend left on a black slab and then up towards a prominent nose. Underclings lead across the slab and underneath the nose to a bolt belay.

P2: The corner above, move right, then up past two bolts to a ledge. A right facing corner leads to the Chill-Out Ledge.

P3: From left-hand belay on Chill-Out Ledge, traverse left past three bolts, moving up at the third to a shallow corner. Continue on wires ‘til another bolt indicates an exposed traverse left to belay.

P4: The bolted wall above and left, good holds lead eventually lead to some tough slopers. Belay out left.

From the top of the access rungs head left, but don't continue on undercling as for JTB. Instead head up past up a seam to the left end of the Chill-Out ledge. Several bulges and a steep finish. Fully bolted as of 2016.

Left and up from the top of the rungs. Shares the first 2 bolts of JTB.

From top of the rungs climb rightwards to the CN belay.

No-hands rest halfway. Can be climbed in 1 pitch.

Left-facing corner and prow above the belay. This route has it all, pockets underclings, lay-backing and crimps! Now fully bolted, with permadraws.

Fully bolted

At the top of the second pitch, you have two options. Left or right. Both lead to the top of the wall.

Fully bolted. Follow groove on left then up the slab to the first anchor of Morris Dancing.

Fully bolted. P1: 14 bolts; P2: 8 bolts; P3: 9 bolts. The line starts into a corner-like feature then veers left onto a smooth slab.

The thin slab just right of ´Morris Dancing’.

Fully bolted. P1: 11 bolts; P2: 7 bolts. Confusingly, start on the bolt line to the left of painted marking ´BJ’.

Start on the short bulge just right of ´Bad Judgement’.

Fully bolted

Climb two (or three??) pitches of Eureka, then branch out right for three pitches.

Starts from the top of the first pitch of Leftism.

Begins halfway up first pitch of Leftism at the belay on the ledge. Follow the line of bolts directly up.

Start from the first bolt along the ledge.

Start on a ledge with a large block hanging above, 10m left of Birdsong. Place cams up to first bolt.

Variation to second pitch of Nature's Melody. Follow right-tending groove after third bolt.

30m if starting from the top of the fixed line, 35m from the ground. First bolt is slightly higher than comfortable.

Starts left of the top of The Obvious Weakness.

Starts from the top of The Obvious Weakness.

Right of Fire.

Weave up the white wall to the break.

Pitch above Euphrates.

A few tricky moves lead up to the break, followed by a traverse requiring an unlikely sequence. From here finish up the crux of TWOB, exciting moves on fictional footholds lead to a glory jug at the anchors.

Starts from the bottom of the big orange streak. After reaching the break, exciting moves on fictional footholds lead to a glory jug at the anchors.

Starts just right of Fuel, finishes up the last bolt of Katalepsis.

Start as for Requiem, then straight up to anchor.

Far left of the crag. Bouldery moves lead to a ring bolt belay and extension.

Top pitch of Little Lucifer.

Right of Solitude. The names are nicely written on the rock.

The awesome headwall above the ring bolt on Bish Bosh Bash. Finishes at the cold shuts.

Extend or unclip from the top of Rua Tahi, step right to the bolt you can see, then head north on small edges then jugs and over a bulge.

From part way up the second pitch of Rua Tahi, head right to the anchor of Tantalus.

Start up Rua Tahi but ever right through steep crux.