Routes as sport in Oceania

1. 30m (15) 11 bolts. Starts about 30 metres to the left of the access track, marked with a 'T'. Look for high fixed hanger on very easy terrain. First pitch is very easy, a little wandery over ledgey terrain.

2. 15m (17) 7 bolts. Starts to get a bit steeper now with a lovely bit of ramp to make you think. The blocks before the corner system may be a bit disconcerting for some. Just head across these gingerly and pull into the awesome orange corner.

3. 15m (18) 6 bolts. This is a brilliant corner with a bit of a sting at the crux {naturally}. Check out the biggest bucket in the world as you pull back left when you get higher on the pitch.

4. 20m (15) Pretty much straight up from the anchors then trend right and on to a large vegetated ledge.

5. 30m (16) Head right from the belay and step around the large gendarme with the two bolts on it. The step across the void after the gendarme is breathtaking. Route joins the top of Voyager shortly after this. Head on up to the halfway House terrace ledge for more sport goodness. Use long extenders (120cm+) for at least the first 5 bolts.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from.

Was once the hardest 17 in the known universe.

They come from far and wide to feel the pockets, stroke the slopers, and clip the chains. Now it is your turn to join the masses and see why Silver Hands is number one in the world.

The easiest warm-up here abouts, and the third most popular route in all of NSW. Considered solid at the grade.

Beaut sustained climbing.

Start: Directly below the cave, on the left side of the obvious crack. Up the wall past delicate slab move to a big rest in the cave. Take a breath and head out the right side up the vertical wall on magic holds.

A great lead at the grade, up through scoop on jugs, RBs to top.

Starts on left side of arête. Straight up to finish.

Optional friend no longer needed to protect start.

Super popular. Start behind the right of the two gums. Up to lower-off at break. As per usual, please do not top-rope directly through anchors.

Marked LT. 2.5m R of Dr Do Little. Thin start, then through some overlaps. Best route on the wall.

Start at big "PT" mark.

Nice climbing up past 5 RBs then run it out a bit up easy slab to anchors. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Crux undercling came off winter 2015. The change is pretty minimal but it's probably a bit harder now.

Follows the obvious orange streak up the middle of the wall. Ringbolts.

One of the popular classics of the grade. Ringbolts and chalk show the way. All good fun. Lower-offs added 2004 and replaced 2021. This route originally went to a set of chains a couple of metres above the lower offs. The chains are still there. Was grade 26 but was chipped some time after the first ascent.

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing.

Be aware of the possibility of a nasty ledgefall between 4th and 5th bolts.

This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

Start at "D" mark.

Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'.

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H".

Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB.

Popular. Bouldery start then steep thuggery. The horn sadly broke changing the sequence. Many people's first 24. Back jump to clean, lower from second bolt.

Start just to the left of Yoink. By far the most popular route at the crag. Now rebolted.

An awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to a lower-off. Stick clipping advised if getting to the first bolt bothers you. (Originally, Squealer traversed in from Howler).

Start: From the first raised platform.

1.5m right of the left arete. Up wall and then move left over cave and then straight up

Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful.

Pleasant wall 6m R of K.

Really good fun sport climbing with plenty of jugs in the roof. Very popular.

Start 2m left of SOF. Up tending right then left through crux, to easy top section. Double fixed biners at top.

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

Absolute classic 25 and for many, their first. Centennial Glen climbing at its best.

Has become a bit of a classic. 8 ring bolts. May be worth taking a sling or long quickdraw for the 2nd or 3rd bolt and last bolt, to avoid pulling the rope against corners of the rock.

Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular. Back Jump to clean and lower from second bolt.

Updating previous description, there are now anchors and a full complement of ringbolts on this route.

It looks (December 2015) like the natural line here is sharing the beginning of Quirrel's Quarrel) to the top of the block then moving left and up (gear placements and bolts).

Start at the right side of the pillar and follow the jugs out to the left. Use the rings.

A bit of a classic. Used to have a few enhanced holds that were later cemented in - not that the grade changed at all. Start under the line with the biggest holds, just right of the sawn log.

Ringbolts. The L rap ring on the anchor is now worn about a quarter through, still fine but may need replacement soonish. Until then, consider rotating it before loading so your rope wears on a different spot to extend its life.

Bold start to gain slightly overhanging face then up scoops on rings to double ring lower off. Good fun at the grade.

The must-do crag classic, featuring the biggest and most aesthetic horns and jugs on the wall. When this was first bolted, there was nobody strong enough to climb it. Oh how things change!

Short and fun - a popular warm-up. Most find this a pumpy little 18.

Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B".

A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB.

The line of ringbolts at far right of wall. New anchor 2015.

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 14 to 16.

Good fun. Straight up, starting on the right side of the left of the two gum trees.

The undercut buttress has a white/yellow streak down its left side. This is it. High first bolt over the rooflet, then sustained climbing up the gently overhung orange wall. Popular.

Stickclip if you are short (tricky start). Ringbolts. There is a loose ~10kg block at halfway: keep people clear below and try not to dislodge it.

Used to be a carrot patch for the sports bunnies, with an awesome final wall. Now it has rings all the way. Carrots are still there, so take some brackets if you need to share a belay. Don't go as a party of 3 unless you are experienced, it eats too much time. If you have a pack, haul it on the second rope if you're getting tired. Don't leave toilet paper or rubbish, you're in a National Park, behave accordingly and don't get on routes like this if you don't know what that means.

People have stupid epics on this all the time. Please read :- http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=26665&Replies=58&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

Generally safe, but run-out at times, with a few loose patches of rock. Take helmets as belayers are lashed to small ledges and can’t dodge shrapnel. Take 2 50m ropes (for rapping down, or retreating), 16 draws and a few slings.

There is a blue emergency bin below Pitch 6, with some water, food, clothing, torches, and basic shelter. Don't call 000 just because you are benighted, so the police don't have to go out at night to babysit you. Please arrange to replace anything you use.

ACCESS: It’s halfway to Hotel California from Mirrorball. Rap in as described above then walk along the track to the right (facing the cliff). After 30m, drop down around the base of Old Skule (clean arete on next pinnacle) and go 70m horizontally right thru the scrub till you hit an orange buttress. Continue down a bit and about another 70m to red rope and BBB sign:

★★★ Bunny Bucket Buttress 18 - 20220101_075236.jpg

Now scramble up and right to a ledge 15m above the track, right of a chossy white patch, just right of a short squeeze chimney. Walk 10m right on the ledge till you see the bolts at the boulder problem start. (If you go down hill to a big fallen boulder, or see a 30m high black then orange corner (Randy Rabbit Ridge), or traverse beneath a choss cave, you've gone too far).

Print out topos and route description or save them to your phone, as you probably won't have reception down there.

1. 20m (18) Traverse out right and back left to flake, reachy. Up to ledge, 2RB.

2. 20m (18) Right and up seam and corner to ledge. Up a move and diagonally R to arete, then R to ledge and 2RB.

3. 40m (18) Up dirty slab and R across corner, traverse R to nose and up corner and nose to ledge. 2RB on block or walk R 8m to 2BB at base of wall.

4. 30m (8) A hard hands-free problem, diagonally R past bolts to 2RB on block further up or tree belay at the top of the slab.

5. 40m (8) Climb across ledges and walls (and a lot of bush...) past bolts to below orange overhang, L to 2RB below corner.

6. 40m (18) Up choss and head out L staying low under roof. Rope drag possible, but its fine if you sling the first 4 bolts. Head up pumpy wall to big ledge. 2RB.

7. 40m (18) Up vertical pump. Needs 15 draws. 2RB.

8. 40m (13) Left across ledge, diagonal L past bolts and across groove. Climb loose left wall to 2RB on top. Rope drag possible, but it's fine if you sling the first few bolts.

Start up little corner thing and jug along to the top of the cliff.

3m R, incorporating a corner feature and some cruxy bits down low.

Similar start as to RoP, not as many holds as it looks. Small runout to anchor. Five UBs to DUBB. Excellent climbing.

Start 3m L of 'Cucumber Castle'. Marked "WF".

A 'KP' classic! Straight up line of 5 RBs to anchors. First RB is high but a bit easier to get to than the first on 'Cucumber Castle'.

Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five bolts with a late crux to a lower off. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighted down, in slow motion, and with bare feet... Seriously.

Start: Just R of 'Madder'

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected. 5 RBs and lower-offs.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

Shared start with previous, then straight up. Fun jug hauling. Rebolted 2017.

One of the best warm ups for the harder routes and a fine route to earn the grade also. Very popular. Anchor replaced 16/10/18. [If the headwall of this route is wet, an equally good but dry 23 is “Lyptus Power”: Lyptus to the crux then easily R across Grape Hour (which will also be wet up high), to join Grey Power].

Classic easy sport route - bring the bolt plates for this. Start 40m left of Katoomba Bros at grey face with a black streak up high, topped by a small roof. Straight up the vertical face mostly on jugs with two hands free ledges in first half. Thin start then consistent on good holds to the crux, which is just above the last bolt. Finish under roof. Well protected but with a little run out at the top just to make it interesting!

Probably the most popular route at Nowra at the grade. Great friction work.

Start 2m L of 'PITG'. Marked "SCB".

Follow the zigzag line of 6 RBs to lower-offs. There's a 7th RB above the anchor if you want to continue up the last section and top out instead.

Ensure that you and your belayer have good communication skills if leading this climb as the belayer can not see the climber when they reach the anchors because of the slab, you have to go halfway across the road to be able to see your climber at the anchors.

Start on the very right end of the terrace next to the big chimney. Climb up past a tricky move at the first bolt, then try some left edge bridging at the 2nd roof to overcome the crux, then cruise your way up (yes 3 roofs on this one).

Climb the slab beneath the cave passing a nice flake. Continue above cave tending slightly left to a flake, then back in line to lower-offs.

Start: Start 2m right of BW

Popular, mostly due to the bolts, easy grade and the weather protection. The middle of the three mini-routes. Wall to fun flake feature, then up tricky wall to finish. Some loose rock at the top.

Super popular. This is the way the route is usually climbed these days (in one pitch, all the way to the top lower-offs). Go left at the top (direct through the bulge isn't as nice - see below).

Nice steep route with an exciting finish. The anchors are over the ledge.

Marked SAV. This is a great climb! Some very hard moves and a few of them!

A good way to ease into this little wall.

This is the extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier! Three more bolts keep the lactic levels up.

Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC".

Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB.

Straight up the wall following seam in centre of wall.

Rings, just to the right of Pompadour.

Start 1m L of 'Anonymous' on right blank face of large ledge beneath high first FH.

Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'.

The route got its name when the pockets on the steep wall were created by chipping away the rock before the first ascent. Originally named Chip a Holloway after Darryn Holloway who chipped the pockets.

Described in the guidebook as a tough 22 10 years ago... this was before the crux hold broke off.

Start just left of Karinya, climb left a bit then up.

Rebolted 2004.

Follow R leaning corner and crack. Five U-bolts to a spicy move at the end. Lower-off. Similar style to Dreamcatcher at an easier grade.

Start 2m L of 'Adam's Rib', 1m R of 'Gobble'.

Nice. Climb up clipping 2 RBs, then 2 FHs, then 1 more RB, then the anchor shared with 'Gobble'. Crux is mantling the bulge at the 3rd bolt.

Some people find it that way! 3m R. FH's.

The super popular left side of the arete. All rings and lower-off at top (or top out to carrots).

Left of Out For A Duck. Nice wall climbing with a fun juggy finish.

Sensational juggy sport climbing up a long and steep orange scoop. Surprisingly easy with big holds the whole way up. Starts aprox 10m left of Lead Zeppelin at impressive orange wall.

Start at the rather redundant DRB which are 1.5m off the ground. Good climbing with loads of very shiny ringbolts. Exciting finale.

Start at the "DA" mark.

Great beginner lead. Up arete following 4 RBs to DBB.

Slab with some nice pockets (don't you wish this went on for 50m?), then sustained headwall which should make your arms feel warm.

Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'.

Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB. There's a ground anchor just L of the base for lead rope soloing.

The best easy sport route at the crag. All rings.

Start left of the cave as per BD.

Marked GL. R of CJ. Ringbolts up through rooflets and a particularly hard move if you are short.

Direct line, right of Gosling.

Ringbolts.

The best warm up here.

Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'.

Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid if leading. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB.

The right route

Rings to double ring lower off.

Fun climb with nice moves, I've seen 2 ppl get flipped when falling just below the lower-offs - don't let the rope go behind your legs!

Fantastic climbing through steep territory on edges of vaguely Africa shaped plate. Up and over the lip trending L and up to recently installed rap station/lower-off.

Start: Start in cave at right end of point pure, stick clip first bolt.

Very excellent slabbing, with a thought provoking crux.

Start: Start on the juggy bit of wall 4m right of the chimney. Has a new second bolt to protect the ground fall.

Start 5m R of 'MOBS'.

A popular beginner lead that gets harder as you go up. 4 RBs and DBB.

Traverse rightwards into the base of the obvious rock ladder. A bit of trickery makes it easier. Stick clip first ring makes it better on the nerves. New anchor out left adds another 4 moves and restores some of the original climbing. Start: 4m right of Cenotaph Corner.

Up the slab towards the ledge with the obvious sandy cave feature. Stay on the outside of this, moving right to join into the amazing line of scoops and follow this until the last bolt (finish here for Half Day At The Beach: 20). From here, move left on crimpers to the anchor for full value.

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

Very nice crack climb. Layback up the crack until the crux at the crack finish (3/4 up), then up holds to the RBs.

Start just right of FF. At the third bolt, you can go either way. Good solid climbing with a few tricky bits.

Thin face climbing on good rock with reachy crux. Rebolted 2019.

Start at "SRO" mark.

Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB.

Left of 'Duckling'.

A great wet weather protected slab climb! The right most bolted line on the wall. Start either via first few metres of the trad corner Constipation Chimney VS or boulder the start direct (grade 21?). A couple of clips are tricky if you are short. The bolts were a birthday gift from Vanessa and Ryan.

Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go.