Great beginner's route, bunch of big sturdy slab flakes you layback on or traverse under, good holds all around. Fully re-bolted as a sport route in October 2022.
The initial length follows a system of cracks on easy slab terrain to an intermediate rappel station (for use as a sports top/retreat option, since it's badly positioned for a belay). Afterward, it traverses to the right, and then again 5 meters up a dihedral to the belay station. 4+ UIAA, 50m
The second, much shorter length traverses left on easy terrain and then heads up for a few meters to the final belay station. 3 UIAA, 20m.
Approach: From Raza Soarelui head left on the path at the base of the wall until you see the route name.
Retreat: With a 60m rope, rap down to the intermediate sports top from p1 and then back down to the start. With 60m halfropes, one single rappel gets you to the base. Alternately, the pre-rebolting retreat has you climb to the ridge and walk a few meters left of it to a sideways growing tree. A single rap on a 60m rope placed around it gets you on a slope a few meters above a path that descends round the ridge to rejoin the access path.
1956 | First ascent: |
---|---|
2009 | Route setter: |
Oct 2022 | Route maintenance: |
4+,3 | Assigned grade |
3A | ★★★Ruxandra V |
3A 4+ | Bersuc Mila |
5+ [5 - 6-] ++ | grAId |
Keep clean, no trashing. Modifying routes in any way is forbidden without the consent of the local community. Creating new chipped holds is strictly forbidden. Dry tooling is allowed only in Cheile Bicăjelului area.
Overall quality 79 from 4 ratings.
Based on 1 ratings.
Based on 1 ratings.
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