Routes as alpine in South America

Climb an initial 200m snow and ice ramp average around 55 degrees with a slightly steeper section at the top. Navigate the flat and featureless glacier to the final ramp leading to the summit.

Approach the south summit and climb the right side of the arete. Sustained 70 - 75 degree snow and ice leads to the south summit. Descend by rappelling the route.

Approach the south summit and climb the left hand side of the arete, closest to the rock band. Sustained 45 - 60 degree snow leads to the summit. Descend by rappelling the route

5-7 hours from a camp on the glacier plateau.

Massive glacial retreat has changed this route significantly and decreased the overall difficulty. As of 2018, the route involves an easy ascent of the glacier to the base of a couloir with 60-70 degree snow/ice. The second pitch is an easy snow slope to the summit, but opting for one of a few possible lines directly up the rock band will add some spice.

Easy snow slopes which lead to the summit after completing one of the previous rock routes.

2 days roundtrip from Camp 1 at the base of the northwest ridge of Huantsan Norte's bergshrund. Bivouac likely.

2 days roundtrip from the valley floor, 8-10 hours from moraine camp to summit.

Via the southwest and west slopes. 4-5 hours from a camp in the meadow at the head of the Quebrada Cayesh.

Via the west face. 2 days roundtrip from the glacier.

3-4 days roundtrip from meadow camp.

6-8 hours from the bergshrund.

Via the south face. 8-10 hours from the bergshrund.

2-3 days round trip from Huaraz, 3-5 hours from the camp on slabs past the moraine.

8-10 hours from the camp at the bottom of the face.

Via the northeast face. 5-7 hours from the Ishinca Col

Best to conduct this traverse from north to south - the climbing is more interesting and the approach is shorter and less heartbreaking.

6-8 hours from base camp, 3-5 hours from Laguna Ishinca.

5-6 hours from base camp, 2-3 hours from the toe of the glacier.

2 days roundtrip from base camp, 5-7 hours from high camp to summit.

2-3 hours from camp to bottom of face, 8-10 hours from bottom of face to summit.

An alternate entry to the east ridge, accessed from the glacier. Moderate snow ramp with some rock.

An alternate entry to the east ridge, accessed from the glacier. Easy snow ramp.

An alternate entry to the east ridge, accessed from the glacier. Easy snow ramp.

Via the southeast slopes to east ridge. 5-6 hours from Ishinca base camp.

5-9 hours from base camp in good conditions.

A sustained snow and ice climb, made difficult by complex navigation on the lower glacier and moderate objective hazards presented by multiple serac bands. Start early, the face gets plenty of sun.

4-7 days roundtrip from Musho depending on acclimatization.

Via the northwest slopes and the Garganta. 4-7 days roundtrip from Musho depending on acclimatization.

Via the south slopes and the Garganta. 4-7 days roundtrip from the village of Musho depending on acclimatisation.

Via the north face. 4-5 days from the bergshrund, plus a day to descent the normal route.

4-6 days including approach and descent on the other side.

3-4 days including approach and descent on the other side.

4-5 days roundtrip from Huaraz.

4-5 days roundtrip from Huaraz.

Via the southwest ridge. 1-2 days from moraine camp to summit and return.

Via the west face. 4-7 hours from moraine camp.

Via the south face. 7-10 hours from the bottom of the face to summit, 12-16 hours roundtrip.

Via the south face. 2-3 days roundtrip from the bottom of the face.

Via the southwest slopes. 3-5 hours from moraine camp.

Northeast Ridge, 2 days round trip from a camp on the glacier to the summit.

8-10 hours from the bergshrund, 1-2 days roundtrip from glacier camp.

A new route, which leads through the center of the eastern face of Huandoy Norte (6360m).

2 days roundtrip from moraine camp to summit and back.

12-14 hours from the bottom of the face with a possible bivouac on descent. 2-3 days roundtrip from the Pisco moraine camp.

10-12 hours from the bottom of the face in good conditions

8-12 hours from the bottom of the face in good conditions

6-8 hours from moraine camp.

10-12 hours from the bottom of the face in good conditions.

Standard descent route

8-12 hours from moraine camp in good conditions.

6-8 hours from glacier camp, 10-12 hours from moraine camp.

5-7 hours from glacier in good condition, 10-12 from moraine camp.

5-7 hours from glacier in good condition, 10-12 from moraine camp.

6-10 hours from moraine camp in good conditions

Western Buttress of the Southwest face. 2-3 day for ascent, 1 day for descent.

3-5 hours from the bottom of the face to summit in good conditions.

3-5 hours from the bottom of the face to summit in good conditions.

3-5 hours from bergshrund to summit in good conditions

4-7 hours from camp to summit in good conditions

10-12 hours from bergshrund

A line on the central wall: a huge, vaulted ceiling, with many roofs.

A long but easy climb, complicated by difficult route finding through a heavily crevassed lower glacier.

A moderate snow and ice climb with some steeper sections and minor difficulties presented by the bergshrund.

A rarely repeated route which is made extremely difficult by the ravages of Patagonian weather.

Essentially the Normal Route, but with two additional pitches of 5.8-5.9 R on extremely friable rock. Alternative pitches begin just left of the snow traverse of Ruta Normal and form part of the descent.

After the col, an exposed snow traverse leads to the summit block with a short 5.9 pitch on poor rock.

The other fairly obvious couloir on the right hand side of the face. Steeper, narrower and more challenging. VI, 5.9, WI4, M5.

The obvious, striking couloir that can be seen from the Carretera Austral. 55-90 degree snow/ice climbing, possibly some mixed terrain. Likely only in condition during winter.