Routes in Alpen

Was initially a project by Dave Graham.

Top-out is protected with 3 bolts.

Initially graded 8B+ but a key hold broke, 8C+ proposed by Martin Keller.

Same start as Dreamtime but right after the dyno into Somnolence.

Extension of "The Story of two Worlds".

Ground up version of 'Off the wagon'. First 8C+ in 'Switzerland'

An extended version of "Foundation's edge" that adds a lower entry to it.

8C hard or 8C+

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Exact location unknown, please move to the right area if you know where it is.

kletterblock.de reported

Considered the benchmark for 8c (V15). First confirmed 8C in history, by Dave Graham. Five years earlier, Fred Nicole had proposed 8C for Dreamtime, on the other side of the same boulder, but most repeaters downgraded it to 8b+

A direct version of "Fight Club".

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The old "Diamantenprojekt" by Bernd Zangerl

'Boogalagga' with sit start.

Discovered by Dave Graham. FA by Giuliano Cameroni (video).

kletterblock.de reported

https://www.grimper.com/video-film-blocs-beaux-durs-coeur-alpes First problem of this video. On the banks of the borgne the Arolla near the path to the Tza hut.

Direct exit of Foundation Edge. Grade to be confirmed.

First move same as for "Permanent Midnight" but then straight up into the 50° roof.

Video: https://vimeo.com/334611979

A direct start to the Power of Now.

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Video: https://vimeo.com/334611979

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#sd start with 'In search of time lost' and end in 'From darkness to sunshine'

Variant of 'La cène du lézard'. Start by 'Focus Pocus'.

Ends at the second anchor.

Sit start.

Same start as Dreamtime. Straight upwards. Originally graded 8C+ but downgraded by Paul Robinson in 2020 to 8B+.

World's first 8C! In 2002, Dave Graham repeated it by finding a different solution. He used a heel-hook to make the brutal start sequence easier, and downgraded the problem to easy 8B+. Most of the following repeaters, including Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Daniel Woods adopted Graham's solution and agreed with him about the grade.

Repetitions

• 2001 Bernd Zangerl (8C)
• 2002 Dave Graham, Chris Sharma
• 2003 Cristian Core
• 2004 Malcolm Smith (V14)
• 2005 Koyamada Dai (8B+/V14), Nalle Hukkataival
• 2007 Killian Fischhuber
• 2009 Adam Ondra (8B+)
• 2013 Jan Hojer (8C/V15)
• 2018 Jimmy Webb , Jakob Schubert
• 2020 Kim Marschner, Alex Megos, Yannick Flohe

Links

• German Article about the problem

Sit start.

Just next to 'Taijutsu'.

Left exit of "From Dirt Grow The Flowers".

A fun old project that starts just to the left of Alphane.

sit start to Alphane Moon and a new added top out

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The #sd of 'Muttertag'