Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Dum's Kitchen | |||||
8a+ | ★★★ Asia Shadow Play
Starts up the stairs towards 'Tyrolean Wall'. Shares the first few meters with 'The Sit Spins', then straight up. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, Volker Schoeffl & Gerd Schoeffl, 1994 | 20m, 7 | |||
6b+ | ★★ The Sit Spins
Shares the start with 'Asia Shadow Play'. Traverses right, then up along the crack. Be careful, the crux just above the ledge is badly protected. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1995 | 20m, 8 | |||
7a | ★★ The Sit Spins (Direct Start)
Direct start to 'The Sit Spins'. Starts on 4 slings to cut off traversing, just on the very left of 'Tyrolean Wall'. Face climb on small holds with a big move to reach the ledge. Set: Ola Brahammar, 2013 | 20m, 9 | |||
8a | ★★ The Sit Spins (Extension)
1
7c+
15m
2
8a
10m
Extension of 'The Sit Spins' or 'Remix Direct'. Goes to the top of the wall. Great endurance climbing with an interesting finale. Stainless steel bolts. Set: Matthew Bouyoud, 2010 | 25m, 2, 11 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Tyrolean Wall | |||||
7a | ★★ The Wrath of Nantawan
The leftmost line on 'Tyrolean Wall'. Don't confuse with 'Remix Direct', which starts on the very left of the wall, but is assigned to 'Dum's Kitchen'. All titanium bolts. Set: Bjoern Alber, Mon Alber & Robert Baier, 2008 | 22m, 10 | |||
6c | ★ Placebo
Endurance climb with a stiff crux over the bulge. All titanium bolts. Set: Bjoern Alber, Mon Alber & Robert Baier, 2008 | 19m, 8 | |||
6c+ | ★★ Loisl
Hard for the grade. Consider stick-clipping the first bolt. All titanium bolts. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 19m, 7 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow
Great climbing, but very popular and polished. Bouldery move to easy climbing and ridiculous tubular jugs. Left and up, Choose your own adventure from here to anchors at the cave. All titanium bolts. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 20m, 8 | |||
7a | ★★ Schwer und Steil
Now bolted. Thin start, be careful. Crimps to the crux. Keep enough in the tank for the end. All titanium bolts. FA: Christian Neumeyer, 1997 Set: Alex Klenov, A. Celishev & V. Skripka, 2011 | 15m, 6 | |||
7b | ★★★ Pavel, Wish You Were Here
1
7a
15m
2
7b
30m
3
6b+
20m
4
6c
30m
First pitch is 'Schwer und Steil'. All pitches bolted with titanium bolts. Set: Alex Klenov, A. Celischev & V. Skripka, 2011 | 95m, 4, 35 | |||
6b+ | ★ Longes Feschtl
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Kuahtittnseppl. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 18m, 6 | |||
6c+ | ★ Kuahtittnseppl
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Longes Feschtl. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 18m, 8 | |||
7c+ | ★ Tricky Business
All titanium bolts. Set: Daniel Hentzschel, 2005 | 18m, 6 | |||
7c | ★★ K1
All titanium bolts. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 20m, 6 | |||
7c | ★★★ Tyrolean Air
Classic. All titanium bolts. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 20m, 7 | |||
8a | ★ The Zephyr
All titanium bolts. FA: Ola Brahammar, 2001 Set: Ola Brahammar & James Lombard, 2001 | 25m, 8 | |||
7b+ | ★★ No Have
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Just Call Me Helmet. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 23m, 9 | |||
8a | ★★ Just Call Me Helmet
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with No Have. Set: Scott Cosgrove, 1997 | 23m, 8 | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Blind, Deaf and Dumb
Shares the first clip with 'Just Call Me Helmet', then right. All titanium bolts. Set: James Lombard, Ill Amstutz & Steve Amstutz, 2003 | 30m, 12 | |||
7c | ★★ Affentanz
Starts about 30m further to the right along the trail. Shares three bolts with 'Lars & Lars', then left. 9 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Daniel Hentzschel, 2005 | 28m, 10 | |||
7a | ★★ Lars & Lars
Balancy and bold. Shares the start with 'Affentanz', then straight up. All titanium bolts. Set: Lars Jones & Lars Gilberg, 2004 | 25m, 9 | |||
7c | ★★ The White Crow
| 20m | |||
8b | Hammer Operation
| 20m | |||
6b | ★ Tyrosine
Horribly chipped route. High 2nd bolt. Starts next to a tree. Using the tree lowers the grade. | ||||
5c+ | ★ Cactus DE Tonsai
| ||||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Tiger Wall | |||||
7c+ | Mind over Matter
All titanium bolts. Set: Ola Brahammar, 2013 | 18m, 7 | |||
7c | ★★ The Rose
All titanium bolts. Set: Ola Brahammar, 2013 | 16m, 6 | |||
Open Project
Extension of 'The Rose', about 8b. Protected by slings. Set: Ola Brahammar, 2013 | 24m | ||||
8a | Finger Bang Bang
8 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Ola Brahammar, 2013 | 22m, 9 | |||
7b | ★★★ Face Plant
All titanium bolts. 1st pitch of 35 Stitches. Set: Jonas Wallin, 2012 | 20m, 9 | |||
8a | 35 Stitches
Two-bolt extension of 'Face Plant'. All titanium bolts. Set: Jonas Wallin, 2012 | 24m, 11 | |||
8a+ | ★★★ Year of the Tiger
1
7a+
30m
2
7c
40m
3
8a+
32m
A classic multi pitch. All pitches bolted with titanium glue-ins. Starts just right of 'Face Plant', then traverses right. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, Scott Morley & Nancy Feagin, 1993 Set: Sam Lightner, Scott Morley & Nancy Feagin, 1993 | 100m, 3, 45 | |||
7b | Tear of the Liger
Starts a little bit further right around the vegetated part of the wall. 10 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Jonas Wallin, 2014 | 32m, 11 | |||
6b UK:E6 | Bugger Your Neighbour
1
5c
2
6b
3
5c
4
6a
5
6a
Trad climb (E2, E5, E5, E4, E6), starting on the very right of 'Tiger Wall', into the obvious corner. See the 'Thailand and Laos Rock Climbing Guidebook' by Elke Schmitz (Basecamp Ton Sai) for a complete description. Set: Patrick Hammond & Dan Smith, 1999 | 140m, 5 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Eagle Wall Left Side | |||||
6a | Mai Rhu Sheu!
Around the corner, 30m left of 'Australian Invasion'. Loose rock, old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Set: Soley Onbhut, 2006 | 15m, 6 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Australian Invasion
6m left of 'Made in Spain'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Lee Cujes & Samantha Cujes, 2011 | 20m, 7 | |||
6b | ★★ Asian Invasion
Shares the first three bolts with 'Australian Invasion', then goes a bit to the right under the roof. | 2 | |||
6b | ★★ Made in Spain
Up a sharp slab, following the seam to the top. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1998 | 20m, 6 | |||
6a | ★★ Can you fix it?
Set: Rock and Sun, Dec 2022 FA: Rock and Sun, Dec 2022 | 18m, 7 | |||
6a | ★★ No it's broken
Set: Rock and Sun FA: Rock and Sun, Dec 2022 | 18m, 7 | |||
6a | ★★ Perfectly Imperfect
40m pitch - watch the end of your rope Set: Rock and Sun, Feb 2022 FA: Rock and Sun, Feb 2022 | 40m | |||
5c+ | ★ Dead Spanish Bolts
Climbs the obvious corner left of the belay ledge. All titanium bolts. Set: Shamick Byszewski, 1994 | 23m, 9 | |||
6a | ★★ Spiderman
The lefthand route on the small belay ledge, accessed by climbing up the fixed rope. 6 titanium bolts, 5 slings. With an 80m rope you can belay from below. You need 17 quickdraws. Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1998 | 32m, 17 | |||
6b | ★★ Desayuno de Nono
The middle line starting from the belay ledge. Titanium bolts and slings. Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1998 | 30m, 13 | |||
6a+ | Desayuno de Nono (Variation)
Finish variation to the right, 5m before the anchor. Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1998 | 30m, 9 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Alta Ruta
Righthand route on the belay ledge. 4 titanium bolts, 5 slings. Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1998 | 30m, 9 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Eagle Wall Main Face | |||||
6b | ★★ Lost in Space
On the wall left of the 'Where Eagles Don't Dare' corner. 3 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Set: Wee Changrua, 1998 | 25m, 7 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Where Eagles Don't Dare
Beautiful through the obvious corner. Nice bridging moves and a rewarding view at the top. 7 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Wee Changrua, Todd Offenbacher & Mark Miner, 1998 | 30m, 9 | |||
7b | ★★★ Flavour of the Week
Shares the slabby start with 'Where Eagles Don't Dare', then veers right onto the face. 6 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Sam Lightner, 1999 | 28m, 9 | |||
7b | ★★ No Name
Start shared with 'Amazing Thailand', then left just before the arête. All titanium bolts. Set: Christian Neumeyer, 1999 | 28m, 9 | |||
7a | ★★★ Amazing Thailand
Straight up the overhang, then to technical moves, finishing up at easier grade on the arête. Polished but awesome. All titanium bolts. Set: Todd Offenbacher, 1998 | 25m, 10 | |||
7b+ | ★★ Sang Trip
All titanium bolts. Set: Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 1998 | 14m, 4 | |||
6c | ★ 5D Mak Mak
All titanium bolts. Set: Wee Changrua & Him Wang Sangha, 1998 | 15m, 5 | |||
7a+ | ★ Yaa Bhar
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Mentally Deranged in Hiding. Set: Matthias Skafar, 1999 | 17m, 4 | |||
6c | ★ Mentally Deranged in Hiding
4 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Share anchor with Yaa Bhar. Set: Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 1998 | 17m, 7 | |||
7a | ★ Kuhn Ba
Reachy crux move to get into the tufas. Slightly awkward finish. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Eilip, 1998 | 15m, 6 | |||
7c+ | ★ Black Hole
Climbs through the big holes on the steep wall left of the cave. All titanium bolts. Set: Adrian Berry & Miles Gibson, 1998 | 15m, 4 | |||
6a+ | ★ [Closed] Totem Pole
Climbed the big column in front of the cave. Bolts have been chopped, because it was not possible to rebolt the route. Set: Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 1998 | 25m | |||
6a | ★ 4:20
Nice line, but extremely polished. All titanium bolts. Set: Tom Cecil, Todd Offenbacher & Mark Miner, 1998 | 15m, 5 | |||
7a | ★ Afterburner
Three-bolt extension of '4:20'. All titanium bolts. Set: Tom Cecil, Todd Offenbacher & Mark Miner, 1998 | 20m, 8 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Sea Monkeys
Shares the start with '4:20', then right. A bit awkward to exit the overhang. Unfortunate bolt placement at the crux, with the rope getting in your way. 11 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Tom Cecil, 1998 | 30m, 12 | |||
6b | ★★ Speaking out Loud
All titanium bolts. Set: R. D. Smith, 1998 | 30m, 12 | |||
6c | ★ The Annihilator
All titanium bolts. Set: Todd Offenbacher, 1998 | 20m, 8 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Eagle Wall Lord of the Fives | |||||
5c+ | ★ Balance Crack
Leftmost line through the obvious corner. Titanium bolts. Set: The RockShop, 2014 | 15m, 5 | |||
5c+ | ★ Out of Line
Shares the start with 'Ann's First Time', then straight up to the left of the three shorter anchors. Titanium bolts. Set: The RockShop, 2014 | 11m, 4 | |||
5b | ★ Ann's First Time
Shares the start with 'Out of Line' amd and anchors with 'Sharp Cove'. Titanium bolts. Set: The RockShop, 2014 | 11m, 6 | |||
5b | Sharp Cove
Starts with 'Easy Dude', then left and up to the anchors of 'Ann's First Time'. Titanium bolts. Set: The RockShop, 2014 | 11m, 4 | |||
5a | ★ Easy Dude
Rightmost start and anchors. Titanium bolts. Set: The RockShop, 2014 | 12m, 4 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Eagle Wall Arboritum Wall | |||||
5 | Arborial Studies
Old slings. Replace if you want to climb. Set: Bob Elder, 2007 | 20m, 6 | |||
6a | Khun Mai Rawn, Khun Mai Ru
Old slings. Replace if you want to climb. Set: Bob Elder, 2007 | 20m, 6 | |||
5 | Tree-Hugging Hippy
Old slings. Replace if you want to climb. Set: Bob Elder, 2007 | 20m, 8 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Cobra Wall | |||||
6c | ★★★ Cobra Venom
Access by climbing up to the second fixed rope. Shares the start with 'Ngu Baen Vohk', then straight up the roof. 8 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Wee Changrua & Elke Schmitz, 2005 | 28m, 10 | |||
7b | ★★ Ngu Baen Vohk
Access by climbing up to the second fixed rope. Shares the start with 'Cobra Venom', then veers right around the arête to steep jugs. 8 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Set: Sam Lightner & Wee Changrua, 2004 | 29m, 12 | |||
6a+ | ★ Snake Skin
Use the fixed rope for the belayer. 5 titanium bolts, 6 slings. Set: Wee Changrua & Tu, 2004 | 20m, 11 | |||
6a+ | ★ Cobra Head
Use the fixed rope for the belayer. Titanium bolts and slings. Set: Wee Changrua, 2001 | 25m, 12 | |||
6a+ | ★ Snake Whisky
Use the fixed rope for the belayer. Titanium bolts and slings. Set: Wee Changrua, 2001 | 26m, 9 | |||
6c | ★★ Baby Snake
Hard start through the overhang. Careful, potentially dangerous lead fall! 3 titanium bolts, 7 slings. Set: Wee Changrua & Ratd, 2002 | 25m, 10 | |||
6b+ | ★ The Last of its Kind
Climb up in the small roof right of 'Baby Snake'. 2 titanium bolts, 10 slings. Set: Simon Talltorp, Jan 2016 | 25m, 12 | |||
6b | ★ Old Snake
Starts on top of the boulder. 2 titanium bolts, 6 slings. Beware. The last “thread” is slung around a dead tree that rattles in the crack. A fall from here would be serious. Set: Wee Changrua, 2001 | 22m, 8 | |||
6c | ★★ The Snake Strikes
Starts about 50m right of 'Old Snake'. Steep and pumpy climbing. Titanium bolts and slings. Set: Wee Changrua & Tu, 2004 | 20m, 7 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Melting Wall | |||||
6c | ★★ No Name
FA: Sam Lightner Jr, Volker Schofft & Gerd Schofft, 1996 | 25m, 7 | |||
6b | ★ The Northern Bird
FA: Sam Lightner Jr. & Louise Whitehead, 2005 | 20m, 4 | |||
6a | ★★ Grove of Vines
FA: Hari Pongsopen & Ghop the RockShop, 2022 | 20m, 4 | |||
5c | ★★ Broken Leg Bird
FA: Hari Pongsopen & Ghop the RockShop, 2022 | 20m, 4 | |||
6a | ★★ Not need Name
only TopRope FA: Hari, Haro Pongsopen & Ghop the RockShop, 2022 | 20m | |||
5c | ★ Orange Shot Chimney
FA: Hari Pongsopen, 2022 | 16m, 4 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Orange Peel
FA: Hari Pongsopen & Ghop the RockShop, 2022 | 12m, 4 | |||
7a+ | S.O.S.
1
6c
30m
2
7a+
20m
Shares the first pitch with 'Cockroach Beach'. Then veers left after the first anchor. Access either by traversing from below 'Cross Eyed', or by climbing straight up for 20m at about 6a level, A 60m rope is just enough to rappel from the first anchor. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, Volker Schoeffl & Gerd Schoeffl, 1996 | 50m, 2, 21 | |||
6c | ★★ Cockroach Beach
1
6c
30m
2
6b+
20m
Shares the first pitch with 'S.O.S.'. Then straight up after the first anchor. Access either by traversing from below 'Cross Eyed', or by climbing straight up for 20m at about 6a level, A 60m rope is just enough to rappel from the first anchor. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, Volker Schoeffl & Gerd Schoeffl, 1996 | 50m, 2, 20 | |||
7b | ★★★ Cross Eyed
Long endurance climb. All titanium bolts. Set: Greg Collum & Chris Carr, 1996 | 28m, 13 | |||
7a+ | ★★★ Affenhitze
Just as long as 'Cross Eyed', though a bit easier. All titanium bolts. Set: Michael Hoffmann & M. Huber, 1997 | 30m, 12 | |||
7a | ★★★ Climb of the Ancient Mariner
Passes two anchors at 6a level, then climbs diagonally left up the overhang getting increasingly difficult. Crosses over 'Affenhitze'. Designed to be climbed in one pitch. All titanium bolts. Set: Tom Cecil & Chris Carr, 1996 | 28m, 11 | |||
6a | ★ Climb of the Ancient Mariner P1
Ends at the first anchor. Set: Tom Cecil & Chris Carr, 1996 | 13m, 5 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Climb of the Ancient Mariner P2
Extends up behind the big stalactite for about 5m to the second anchor. Set: Tom Cecil & Chris Carr, 1996 | 18m, 7 | |||
6b | ★ Captain Hook
Shares the anchor with 'Right Hand of Buddha'. 3 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Tom Cecil & Chris Carr, 1996 | 15m, 5 | |||
6b | ★ Right Hand of Buddha
Shares the anchor with 'Captain Hook'. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Greg Collum & Tom Cecil, 1996 | 15m, 5 | |||
6b | ★ Melting Pot
Second pitch of either 'Captain Hook' or 'Right Hand of Buddha'. 3 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: R. Bernard, I. Turnbull & Andy F., 1996 | 10m, 4 | |||
6b | ★ Doing the Trad
Shares the anchor with 'Captain Hook' and 'Right Hand of Buddha' to allow toprope access. Set: Jim Yoder & Mark Miner, 1996 | 15m | |||
8b+ | Black Bird
| ||||
7a+ | ★★ Bonsoir
Easy climbing into the first overhang, reachy crux to get onto the arête. Another reachy move to get to the tufas. 4 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Sam Lightner & Greg Collum, 1996 | 18m, 7 |