Ascents in Boulder as Hang dog

one sit - reachy and stiffer than I expect for BoCan. possibly would have been easier had I not been tripping on ski pants or been able to see my feet (apparently I didn't have thermals in the car) but they were justified when the wind and rain turned into actual snow

Had a session this past Monday as well as past Friday on this beast. I did all the moves within one session! Very psyched to be projecting this. Climbs up Tell Tale Heart, including its crux, to break out roght to a V6/7 sloper boulder problem. The slopers are baaaaad. Definitely a low percentage boulder problem for me, so I need to build endurance to get there really fresh!

Quick dusk climb after photo sesh with Justin's camera! Seems much easier than last time I was here, but still not easy! I'll probably get it next time

Managed to do the hard clip and find the beta over the lip.

One hang at lip.

One hang at lip.

One hang at lip! I guess I should have expected something like this after climbing for 5 days in a row

Flash attempt after watching a couple of other climbers on it. But I went for the double gaston from too low and fell at the crux. The grade comes from one move into an "open the elevator door" stance. After hanging below the crux I then went bolt to bolt to the anchor because the last few moves are a bit run out on big jugs and I had to psych myself up for it.

Most people on mtn project say this pitch is 11b or c. It definitely felt a lot harder than the first pitch of the edge which is 11a.

Just the first amazing pitch - 11a! Will come back and do the whole thing. So good. Foot slipped on TR but did all the moves fairly easily - will come back to lead!

Got the first part to feel easier and one-hung the route. Key is sticking the right footswing the first go!

Really fun start on long moves to good holds. Save some energy for the lip, because the mantle is hard! The crux reminded me somewhat of Baroom Brawl (5.12b) back in Brooyar. Gonna get back on it.

Oof, super exposed, awesome climbing in a north facing wall. Very pumpy to the crux, which is hard! As I tried it for the first time, I fell again and again... Will come back in better shape!

Needs some nuts or small cams through the crux unless you are feeling game

tricky - had to aid through reachy traverse to flake then undercling

Made things way too strenuous under the roof, and missed the single hold that gets you onto the face. Had to sit. Would go knowing where to make that move rather than getting caught between genesis and boomerang

Beautiful corner. Took a number of tries to figure out the move, but it’s only a single move.

seconded p1, aiding through slab. would have liked to try p2 but leader had insufficiently large gear at roof, ripped a #1 camalot, then bailed leaving $1100 worth of gear on that pitch

Needed to work the beta for the crux. Would go easily, just need more shade and another shot

bombed it. well polished...

A stiff lesson in overhung palm jamming