The Real Hidden Valley Area Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. The Real Hidden Valley Area 311 routes in Crag

5 4 7 6

4 The Real Hidden Valley 5 The Land That Time Forgot 6 Turtle Rock Area 7 Houser Buttress Area

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 34.013763, -116.171339

ethic

Be aware that you are climbing and staying in a National Park. Certain rules apply for climbers regarding climbing and camping, please make sure to get the latest rules once you enter the park.

inherited from Joshua Tree National Park

1.1. Three Pile Island 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.2. Bite Rock 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.3. The Green Room 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.4. The Real Hidden Valley 114 routes in Crag

12 11 9 10 8 6 4 2 7 3 14 1

1 Parking Area 2 The Wart - West Face 3 Sunset Rock 4 Sports Challenge Rock 6 Hidden Tower 7 The Sand Castle 8 The Wailing Wall - West Face 9 Elephant Dome 10 Snake Dome 11 The Great Burrito 12 The Brown Wall 14 Locomotion Rock

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 34.014994, -116.169400

1.4.1. Parking Area 35 routes in Crag

7 4 1 5 3

1 Entrance Boulder 3 Parking Area Boulders 4 Pitted Rock 5 Gateway Rock 7 Locomotion Rock

Summary:

Rock climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 34.012898, -116.168234

1.4.1.1. Entrance Boulder 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 34.012572, -116.168352

1.4.1.2. Yablonski Boulder 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.4.1.3. Parking Area Boulders 7 routes in Area

4 2 3

2 The Pope's Hat 3 The Broken Egg 4 Saturday Night Live Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 34.011224, -116.168035

1.4.1.3.1. The Pope's Hat 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 34.011462, -116.167056

1.4.1.3.2. The Broken Egg 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 34.011143, -116.167276

description

East side of the parking loop.

1.4.1.3.3. Saturday Night Live Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 34.011501, -116.168978

description

Located South West of the main loop.

1.4.1.4. Pitted Rock 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.013102, -116.168276

1.4.1.5. Gateway Rock 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.012545, -116.169032

1.4.1.6. Pitted Rock - East Face 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.4.1.7. Locomotion Rock 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.013432, -116.167754

1.4.2. The Wart - West Face 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.014083, -116.168172

1.4.3. Sunset Rock 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.013854, -116.169368

1.4.4. Sports Challenge Rock 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 34.014115, -116.169124

1.4.4.1. West Face 13 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Top roping

1.4.4.2. East Face 13 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Triathlon	5.11c	Unknown
2		★★★ Clean and Jerk A nails boulder problem off the deck guards superb crack climbing above. A true classic. Good gear in the horizontals protects the opening moves.	5.10c	Trad 82ft
3		Cool But Not Too Concerned	5.12c	Unknown
4		★ Dick Enberg	5.11c	Unknown
5		★★ The Lobster	5.12a	Unknown
6		★★ Lobster Lieback	V6	Boulder
7		★ The Beave Start of "Leave it to Beaver" and down climb for "Lobster Lieback"	V0	Boulder
8		★★ Kirkatron	V5	Boulder
9		★★★ Leave It To Beaver One of Joshua Tree’s more classic offerings. Pumpy, funky sport climbing all protected by trad gear. Truly an artistic piece of stone.	5.12a	Trad 79ft
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
10		★★ Championship Wrestling FA: Dan Ahlborn & Kevin Powell, 1975	5.10a	Trad 50ft
11		★★ Cool But Concerned	5.11d	Unknown
12		★ Discoy Decoy	5.11a	Unknown
13		★ Hang And Swing	5.10d	Unknown

1.4.5. Daniels Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.4.6. Hidden Tower 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 34.014413, -116.168236

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Splotch Starts around the formation left of Sail Away - climb a chimney system.	5.6	Trad
2		Split Starts around the formation left of Sail Away. Climb a crack system about 10 feet right of the chimney Splotch climbs.	5.6	Trad
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
3		★★ Wild Wind	5.9	Trad 49ft
4		★★★ Sail Away Super classic crack climb.	5.8	Trad 85ft
5		★ Not Forgotten Starts around the corner right of Sail Away, up a bit.	5.10a	Trad

1.4.7. The Sand Castle 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.014023, -116.167208

1.4.8. The Wailing Wall - West Face 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 34.015229, -116.168596

1.4.9. Elephant Dome 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.015865, -116.169512

1.4.10. Snake Dome 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.015522, -116.169332

1.4.11. The Great Burrito 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.016618, -116.170419

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Stood Up	5.8	Trad 79ft
2		Desperado	5.10a	Trad
3		Kemosabe and Tonto	5.9	Trad 98ft
4		Tonto And The Great White Leader	5.9	Unknown 79ft
5		★★ Non-Decumbent Destiny	5.8	Unknown
6		Three Burner Stove	5.10b	Unknown
7		Learn Quick Or Die	5.9	Trad 98ft
8		Fat Free Face climb up a thin seam. 4 bolts & 1 fixed piece for pro.	5.9	Mixed trad 80ft, 4

1.4.12. The Brown Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.016781, -116.172144

1.4.13. Fingertip Rock 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.4.14. Locomotion Rock 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 34.013456, -116.167946

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Jumping Jehoshaphat	5.7	Trad
2		Grain Dance (TR)	5.10b	Top rope
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
3		★★ Leaping Leaner FA started from the large boulder, that goes at 5.6. Most now seem to start direct from the ground, which is probably 5.7.	5.7	Trad 50ft
4		★ Slip And Slide (TR)	5.11c	Top rope
5		Lumping Fat Jennie	5.7	Trad 39ft
6		SNNFCHTT	5.8	Trad
7		Gunks West	5.10b	Trad
8		★ HHECHT	5.7	Trad
9		Jump Back Loretta	5.5	Trad 30ft

1.5. The Land That Time Forgot 95 routes in Area

8 1 10 13 11 14 15 16

1 Saavy Dome 8 Poon Dome 10 The Thin Wall 11 The Wimp Tower 13 The Sentinel 14 The Hidden Cliff 15 Tumbling Rainbow Formation 16 Solosby Face

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 34.015653, -116.173415

1.5.1. Saavy Dome 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.017679, -116.172938

1.5.2. Lower Cow Rock 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.3. Upper Cow Rock 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.5.4. The Alps Rock 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.5. Worthwhile Pile 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.6. Slanta Claus Rock 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.5.7. Short Rock 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.8. Poon Dome 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.020151, -116.175361

1.5.9. Czech Dome 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.10. The Thin Wall 13 routes in Area

1 2

1 East Face 2 West Face

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 34.014299, -116.172576

approach

Park in the Hidden Valley Picnic area, from here start on the Hidden Valley Nature Trail. At the fork turn left, after a short walk the The Thin Wall will be on your right.

1.5.10.1. East Face 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 34.014321, -116.172560

description

East face of the Thin Wall -- the more climbed face.

Shady most of the day.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Child's Play On the left end of the wall, climb the right facing corner up and over the roof. Can be top roped from a 2 bolt anchor on top.	5.10d	Trad 59ft
2		★★ Congratulations Straight up the red wall to the right of 'Child's Play' and through the roof from the right side. Finishes at the same 2 bolt anchor as 'Child's Play'. Gear is small and sparse, can be top roped from the bolts.	5.10d R	Trad 59ft
3		★ No Calculators Allowed	5.10a	Trad 50ft
4		★ Count On Your Fingers	5.9	Trad 49ft
5		★ Peculiar Taste buds Climb corner and crack. FA: Todd Swain, 1989	5.8	Trad 65ft
6		★ Conservative Policies FA: Alan Bartlett & Debbie Daigle, 1988	5.8	Trad 50ft
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
7		★★ Butterfingers Make Me Horny FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 1988	5.8	Trad 60ft
8		★ Chocolate is Better Than Sex FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 1988	5.9	Trad 50ft
9		★ Almost Vertical Start of the wider crack on the right side of the wall. Follow this crack to the top.	5.7	Trad 55ft
10		★★ The Face of Tammy Faye	5.8	Trad 50ft
11		★ Ain't Nothin' But a J-Tree Thing Climb blocky terrain to the top of some boulders, then a juggy crack.	5.6	Trad 55ft

1.5.10.2. West Face 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 34.014272, -116.172597

1.5.11. The Wimp Tower 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.012973, -116.174079

1.5.12. The Otter Cliffs 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.13. The Sentinel 25 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 34.013197, -116.171204

1.5.13.1. East Face 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing and Trad climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Climb of the Sentry	5.5	Unknown
2		Sentinel Beach	5.8	Trad 40ft
3		Unknown	5.8	Unknown
4		Beauty And the Beach	5.9	Unknown
5		Be Good or Be Gone	5.10d	Unknown
6		★★ Ball Bearing	5.10a	Trad 100ft
7		★★ Fote Hog	5.6	Trad 130ft, 2
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
8		★★ Western Saga Set: Dan Ahlborn & Mariah Crano, 1976	5.9	Trad 100ft

1.5.13.2. West Face 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		The Butt Buttress	5.10b	Unknown
2		Flared Bear	5.8	Unknown
3		★★ Where Janitors Dare	5.7	Trad 80ft
4		★ Where Eagles Dare	5.11d	Trad
5		Crystal Keyhole	5.9	Unknown
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
6		★ Not For Loan	5.10b	Trad
7		★★★ Some Like It Hot	5.12c	Sport
8		Desert Tortoise Traverse right from the end of P1 of Some Like it Hot to the anchor at the top of Illusion Dweller.	5.12a	Sport 90ft, 10
9		★★ Desert Song	5.11b	Trad
10		Scared Bare	5.10d	Unknown
11		Nameless	A3	Aid
12		★★ The Scorpion	5.13b	Trad
13		★★ The Tarantula	5.12c	Trad
14		★★★ Illusion Dweller / Candy-Colored Tangerine-Flake Stremlined Baby! Climb the long right-leaning hand & finger crack.	5.10b	Trad 100ft
15		The Centipede	5.11d R	Mixed trad 110ft, 3
16		★★ The Chameleon	5.12b R	Mixed trad 4
17		The Rubberfat Syndrome Offwidth	5.11a	Trad

1.5.14. The Hidden Cliff 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 34.012914, -116.171297

1.5.15. Tumbling Rainbow Formation 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.012148, -116.171383

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Run From Your Mother-In-Law	5.10a	Unknown
2		Two Stage	5.10a	Unknown
3		Run From Your Wife	5.10c	Unknown
4		★★ Runaway	5.11a	Sport
5		★★★ Run For Your Life	5.10b	Sport
6		★★ Tumbling Rainbow	5.9	Trad
7		★★ Tonic Boom	5.12d	Sport
8		★★ Tic Tic Boom	5.12a	Sport
9		★★ Rainy Day, Dream Away	5.11b	Trad
10		Tales of Brave Ulysses	5.9	Trad
11		Don't Look a Gift Frog in the Mouth	5.9	Trad
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
12		★ (unknown crack) Left of Fisticuffs, at the back of the same major gully is an obvious, clean-looking crack that pulls up over a bulge before easing off. Climb this.	5.9	Trad 49ft
13		★★ Fisticuffs Clean hands -> off-hands -> fist crack that curves up to slightly overhanging. Starts in a high, slightly inset gully near the right end of the formation. FA: John Long & Rick Accomazzo, 1973	5.10b	Trad 40ft
14		Tepe Ninja To the right of Fisticuffs is a shorter flare-chimney that squeezes down to about body-thickness about half way up. Climb this. FA graded it a "Vedauwoo 5.9", so it will likely feel considerably harder. FFA: Cory Fleagle, 28 Sep 2015 FA: 28 Sep 2015	5.9	Trad 33ft

1.5.16. Solosby Face 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.011642, -116.171106

1.6. Turtle Rock Area 61 routes in Area

2 1 3

1 Turtle Rock 2 Pillars of Pain 3 The Cluster

Summary:

Bouldering, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 34.010635, -116.167173

1.6.1. Turtle Rock 21 routes in Area

2

2 East Face

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 34.010558, -116.166619

1.6.1.1. South Face 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

summary

Quality hard sport climbing!

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★★ Desert Shield FA: Scott Cosgrove	5.13a	Sport
2		★★★ Integrity One of the hardest routes in Joshua Tree. Considered a bit of a sandbag. FA: Scott Cosgrove	5.14a	Sport
3		★ Jesus Lives	5.12c	Sport
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
4		★★★ Satanic Mechanic Funky easy climbing to a rad boulder problem. An excellent sport climb.	5.12b	Sport 49ft
5		Kippy Korner	5.9	Trad
6		Biskering	5.9	Trad
7		OK Korner	5.9	Trad

1.6.1.2. East Face 11 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.010966, -116.166394

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Lieback and Lingerie	5.10d R	Unknown
2		★★ Sexy Sadye	5.10d	Unknown
3		Shut Up and Climb	5.10a	Unknown
4		Bisk	5.4	Trad
5		Ripples	5.7	Trad
6		Luminous Breast	5.8 R	Unknown
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
7		★★ Rehab	5.9	Trad
8		Wandering Tortoise	5.3	Trad
9		Blistering There's a bolt anchor midway up	5.5	Trad 2
10		★ Easy Day	5.4	Trad
11		Turtle Soup	5.3	Trad

1.6.1.3. North Face 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.6.2. Pillars of Pain 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.010918, -116.167533

1.6.2.1. Tower 1 - East Face 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.6.2.2. Tower 2 - East Face 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.6.2.3. Tower 3 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.6.3. The Cluster 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.010156, -116.168746

1.6.4. Opposite Largo Boulder 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.6.5. Largo Boulder 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.6.6. Flaky Boulder 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Bouldering and Rock climbing

1.6.7. Wedge Boulder 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.6.8. Wave Boulder 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

1.6.9. Turnbuckle Boulder 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.6.10. So High Boulder 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.6.11. Shipwreck Boulder 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.7. Houser Buttress Area 35 routes in Area

4 3 2

2 Houser Buttress 3 Zombie Woof Rock 4 Miles of Piles Rock

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.011450, -116.172628

1.7.1. Little Stuff Crags 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.7.2. Houser Buttress 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 34.010859, -116.171080

1.7.3. Zombie Woof Rock 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.010896, -116.172689

1.7.4. Miles of Piles Rock 12 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.011855, -116.173398

1.7.4.1. West Face 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.7.4.2. East Face 8 routes in Area

Summary: