Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Lower Ampitheater | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Ranger Corner | 15m | |||||
Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.6 |
★ Swan Slab Gully P1
1
21.34
| 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Cathedral Range Area Cathedral Peak Eichorn Pinnacle | |||||||
5.9 III ~5.10b | ★★★ West Pillar - with Simon | ★★★ Classic | |||||
We climbed the direct West pillar (10b). What a cool crack line and the 10b is so much fun and well protectable.
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Cathedral Range Area Matthes Crest | |||||||
5.7 II | ★★★ Traverse from South to North - with Simon | 1300m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Complete traverse from South to North. Especially after the North Summit nice climbing and what a beautiful line.
Approach from Bud lake is the shortest.
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Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Daff Area Daff Dome West Face Left | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ West Crack - with Simon | 210m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Daff Area Daff Dome West Face Left | |||||||
5.9 |
★★★ West Crack
1
2
3
4
5
| 210m | |||||
Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Fairview Area Fairview Dome Left Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Regular Route - with Simon | 300m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Tenaya Peak Area Tenaya Peak Wall | |||||||
5.5 | ★★★ Northwest Buttress - with Hamish | 460m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome climb! Thought it would be a long day but it was fine to solo and simul climb for us and were car to car in 5 hours with some decent amount of faffing and pictures at the summit. Great views of the Sierra's, Half Dome, and Cathedral Peak.
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Cathedral Range Area Cathedral Peak | |||||||
5.6 III | ★★★ Southeast Buttress - with Hamish | 220m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome climb despite the 10,000 people on it... did the 5.7 variant which including a cool corner.
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Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Olmstead Area Olmstead Canyon | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Tideline - with Dane Evans | ★★★ Classic | |||||
worked out moves and gear; seems feasible to redpoint if I plan ahead and also place less gear
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Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Daff Area Daff Dome West Face Left | |||||||
5.10a |
★★ Cooke Booke P1
- with
Dane Evans
1
| 150m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10a |
★★ Cooke Booke P1
- with
Dane Evans
1
| 150m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
was scared of the roof traverse but eventually got it clean. but despite my best efforts, rope drag got so bad that I could neither move up nor be lowered mid-dihedral, and had to backclean to the roof
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Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Daff Area Daff Dome West Face Left | |||||||
5.10a |
★★ Cooke Booke P1
- with
Bonnie
1
| 150m | |||||
Fun, I never expected to be left hip in in the offwidth, but it worked.
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Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Lembert Area Lembert Dome Northwest Face | |||||||
5.10b |
★★ Direct Northwest Face
- with
Bonnie
1
2
3
4
| 150m | |||||
Very nice little dome
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5.10b |
★★ Direct Northwest Face
- with
Dane Evans
1
2
5.9
3
5.10a
4
5.10b
| 150m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Olmstead Area Olmstead Canyon | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Lord Caffeine - with Dane Evans | 23m | |||||
Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Olmstead Area Olmstead Canyon | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Lord Caffeine - with Bonnie | 23m | |||||
First ascent after winter, first ascent at altitude. More gardening than climbing, and I bailed after the hard bit in need of air and water.
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.9 |
★★ Lena's Lieback P1
- with
Bonnie
1
80 ft
| 24m | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 |
★★ Lena's Lieback P1
- with
Dane Evans
1
80 ft
| 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Camp 4 Big Columbia Boulder | |||||||
V8 | ★★★ Midnight Lightning | 8m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Incredible
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Mon 26th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Generator Station | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Generator Crack — 3 attempts | 18m | |||||
was going to TRS after partner for serenity bailed, but ran into some humans who kindly offered a belay. tied in three times, got more efficient, probably within a move or two of getting my butt into the crack. bruised but not unhappy with how that went for a first day
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Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Five Open Books | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Commitment | 100m | |||||
led p1+p3, slipped off trying to bicep curl the roof crux at max reach. possibly easier if you don't fill the roof crack with cams
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Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Lower Cathedral Rock North Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Kung Fu Panda | 24m | |||||
5.10c | ★ End of the Line - with Evan | 37m | |||||
lap to clean and to see how far off a redpoint feels. it's all there knowing the moves, would just need to not slip or screw up
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5.10c | ★ End of the Line - with Evan | 37m | |||||
varied, long, pretty good. three spots where I needed to sit and figure out what to do.
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5.10d ~5.10d | ★★ Sub-Mission - with Evan | 52m | |||||
sustained layback crux, would be hard placing gear
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Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Boneheads — 3 attempts | 24m | |||||
Wow, tough start on a hot sunny day. Don't forget to douse yourself in deet, the mosquitoes were swarming in late June
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5.10a | ★★ Kiddie Corner | 34m, 7 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Suds | 37m | |||||
Wed 21st Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Five Open Books | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Munginella | 110m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 20th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ After Six | 180m | |||||
5.8 R | ★★ C.S. Concerto | 140m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
5.7 | ★★ After Six - with Michael and Tom, Nathan | 180m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First multipitch Trad climb, with Nathan, Tom and Michael. 7 pitches.
Loved it.
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Mon 19th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Middle Brother Camp 4 Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Doggie Deviations | 30m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
enjoyable and cruisy on TR; problem section was fine as steep jam without gear/rope in the way or a ledge to think about
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5.9 | ★★ Doggie Deviations | 30m, 1 | |||||
nervous on 5.9 part due to proximity to ground but got through it, then two slightly ledgy falls from steep 5.8 hands section: a fumbled downclimb retreat, then (probably sensibly) backing off trying it as a greasy layback without more gear or enough stability to bump gear. ankle was already a bit cranky; promised Cody the remainder could be stitched up and he kindly agreed to finish the lead with more gear
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5.9 | ★★ Doggie Diversions | 85m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
had just enough gear for redirects to get a rope down the first two pitches from the deviations anchor. so good: full body wrestle in p1 (complete with gear sling for the full experience as I wanted to stitch the traverse up more) then bomber foot jam/calf lock + smear + forearm bar/butterfly shuffle for type 1 fun. keen to scramble around and lead p2 next time if I can get the gear together
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Holey Gully - with Jenny | 21m | |||||
Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Glacier Point Glacier Point Apron Center | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Harry Daley - with Jenny | 70m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
tried heading back in late arvo. trailhead ~6pm, started climbing 7:10pm, linked p1 and p2 as ~68m megapitch for daylight reasons, about 20min to lead each pitch. was slightly terrified in initial pinscars ('yes I'm aware that I'm now soloing') and blindly placing a #0.5 underfoot by feel. ran out everything that wasn't cruxy, drag wasn't too horrendous. scramble and talus in dark, at carpark 9:59pm. such a quality line, totally worth it
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Keystone Corner - with Jenny | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
after trying to drive to glacier point apron and getting accidentally booted out of the valley loop after 1h45, long weekends are fun
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Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Base Area | |||||||
5.9 | Simulkrime | ||||||
just followed what looked interesting. slightly crumbly but good. I can see myself coming here for slab mileage when solo as there's so many variants, and also trying to move quickly will be a challenge
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Chapel Wall | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Cosmic Debris | 9m | |||||
Two burns then you need a full rest day for your fingers to return to normal size. Painful locks with poor feet. Really enjoyed working this one out ! Felt really solid on the top and bottom. But the middle always felt like stabbing between sharp locks. Was keen to stay longer but the rain sucked my motivation. Keen to come back for this.
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Serenity Crack Area | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Serenity Crack - with Shane Corbett | 110m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
adventurous but brief: got a few droplets while Shane led p1; agreed to go until we got rained off. low crack transfer on p2 looked vegetated so i spent a while contemplating the big committing slab traverse higher up, not liking the friction or potential swing (or invert if i stepped on the sling). thankfully the weather escalated before i had to wuss out. the granite was soaked before i started lowering, and we were getting lashed with hailstones by the time i was at the belay.
getting off was the priority so i started the rap down p1 without looking at the topo. tried to think heavy thoughts as i sorted out the rope; kept going given the thunderstorm and knowing i had a full rack. turns out a 70m won't get you to the ground from p1 anchors but will get you to pinscars ~3m up where a #.75 and #.1 will hold even submerged in a minor waterfall, which will get you off the rope to work out next steps. not necessarily saying my decisions were good but they were deliberate and (quickly) considered, with risks and contingencies in mind |
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Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
Unfortunately didnt get a chance to get further than 6 pitches up the shnoz this season. Anthony and I did a 'dolt run' to practice speed climbing. I went with antons 'intermediate clove hitch' method of breaking up the death loop as opposed to the self belay because im not stoked about lead falling onto a device im wearing. The only sketchy moment was forgetting to undo one of the cloves and pulling a nut out from above. It was my only piece and i couldnt place above so i had to shimmy down and replace the nut. After that i just waited for tony to get up and put me on belay. Ultimately more research on this as well as the route itself would be needed for the holy 'niad'. A 3 or 4 day ascent might be a prerequisite.. Or 2 days with hammocks and only bars and drinking peoples piss off the wall to avoid hauling? Still stoked to get up on the 'best rock climb in the world' and look down the dawn wall with howling wind to juice up the exposure even more.
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Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Sentinel Rock | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Steck-Salathe | 460m | Average | ||||
Steak-salad-day. 'If you cant climb the good-looking 1000m peak, climb its chossier sister'. Id heard about the training methods for this route involving garage door sitting and asphalt parking lot crawling but really henry and i should have put more time into practising going down waterslides at wet and wild without sliding. We got the day started at 5:30 in the carpark to avoid pony-boy's unplanned summit shiver-bivvy scenario. An added incentive was the thunderstorms predicted for the afternoon. But it doesnt rain in yosemite so we werent worried. Got to 'the narrows' at about 2:30, just as the thunderstorm rolled in on schedule. I struggled through with much swearing, henry got the bag stuck on second. I tied him off and rapped back into the chimney to encourage him to ditch the bag! Lucky he had slightly better sense to just take stuff out of the bag till it fit through the chimney. Squeeze struggling while feeling the thunder rattling the rock is a slightly stressful but pretty cool experience. The storm cleared and we went through to the top via an incorrect but very fun series of sporty flake pitches out left, got some photos and then saw another storm inbound. A double header! Tailed it down the gully at 7:15. The rain belted us as we raced down choss, followed by slippery slab waterfalls, henry hurriedly navigating. One particularly sketchy downclimb was bailed off and an impromptu rap down the slabs cost us a couple of slings but we were granted our continued survival in exchange. This journey was being viewed by all our friends through binos in the comfort of camp 4 so were glad we could provide some wet-weather entertainment. After another hour of glissading through broken trees and avoiding unannounced cliffs and waterfalls, we stumbled across a tourist track at 10:15. The car was parked for 16:45. I cant imagine what henry and i will go through on our second climb together. We both deserved the bin pancakes i promised for someone climbing stalathe with me on my facebook ad.
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Mon 5th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Reed's Pinnacle Area | |||||||
5.10a ~5.10a |
★★★ Reed's Direct
- with
Ariel
1
2
5.10a
| 73m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I did read the supertopo description of p2 but was stoked to get out and climb so applied a healthy amount of cognitive dissonance and figured I could 'just sit'. nowhere near enough gear with doubles up to #2 then singles up to #4. all four hexes got placed. fought valiantly for the onsight until about halfway then was completely flash pumped. top piece of gear was always placed on lead until the final offwidth. not the first time i've been completely shut down by '5.9' but afaicr the first time i've had to pause part way through pulling up rope to dry heave into a bush.
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Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress | |||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Nutcracker Right Start
- with
Jack Seawright
1
110ft
thought this was pretty bold
2
90ft
| 61m | |||||
5.8 |
★★★ The Nutcracker Suite
- with
Jack Seawright
3
4
starting from the slung horn (heading right) to below the mantle was about 65m including the anchor. the climbing was all there if a bit slick. i didn't have nearly enough slings, so between the wandering, slab, and length, most of the pitch was no-fall territory - great headgame practice
5
| 180m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
fun afternoon ramble, mostly avoiding the storm. a bit spookgey in the humidity esp. the RH variant start
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Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
First lap I had one fall on the sixth pitch then onsighted the rest. Sent second time round. Felt flowy. Really enjoyed this
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5.13a VI | ★★★ Freerider - with shane | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
The Freeing ended after the freeblast then it turned into Aidrider !
Absolutely mega adventure and I feel like I learnt alot along the way.
Day 1, stuck behind an aid parties initially. But just climbed around them and their gear. Sent all of the free blast. Got the rope stuck twice on the half dollar. Then fixed to the hollow flake and slept on heart ledges. "The move" felt absolutely mingin. Day 2, hauling these pitches was exhausting. Then straight into the hollow flake. & it was just as terrifying as I thought it would be. Need Todo more othwidth climbing bumping two tipped number sixs leaving one and then another before questing 15m above them without any gear felt pretty out there. Then Shane threaded the anchor and started the downclimb taking two falls. Then when he climbed up further I threw the rope down for him to retie back in. Then he untied and I pulled the other line. And the sound I won't forget anytime soon. Metal rattling into the abyss. Shane "was that the six ?* ... " That was both of the sixs" Then we sat on the ledge contemplating if we could climb the rest of the route without any number sixs. Fixed the next two pitchs and stayed on the hollow flake Ledge that night. Day 3, onwards and upwards. Anxious about our position but psyched to be moving. The ear was something to experience. Sadly or happily we skipped the monster and aided the salathe. Made it to the alcove for lunch then climbed to the Spire and fixed two pitches above. Day 4, I think I slept a Total of one hour. Not sure why I decided to sleep on the slopping ledge ahaha. Boulder for breakfast. Such cool movement on this thing ! The crimp before the Gaston thumb move felt pretty spoogy. Gave the moves a few goes but didn't spend too long on it. Sewer pitch was filthy. Shane got the snorkel on for that. Sport lose flake pitch was pretty nerving but pretty sweet climbing. Boom enduro corner. Alot more sporty than it looks weird kneebar stuff and sick laybacking, final pitch of the day and the most exposed pitch of the climb. Wild traversing over the void. Day 5. Pretty dismal free climbing effort on this day ahaha. Those sliver jugs were just too good Frankly I felt pretty destroyed. & Was just happy to be on the summit !! |
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Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Sentinel Creek | |||||||
5.10d | Mantra - with Jack Seawright | 1 | |||||
10d slab then slightly grotty 10b crack. bomber RP placements exist if you bring a nut tool to excavate them. between an RP and a #0.15 X4 (the offset isn't necessary, it's just my smallest cam) I wasn't stressed by the pro on the slab
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5.10d | ★★★ Ying-Yang - with Jack Seawright | 35m | |||||
engaging, a bit slick, great pro. one slip down low just before first ledge. will try lead if back here
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5.10a | ★★★ Hari-kiri - with Jack Seawright | ★★ Very Good | |||||
nice warm up, thoughtful but not strenuous
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Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Washington Column South Face | |||||||
5.8 C1 V | ★★★ South Face | 370m | |||||
Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.11a | Kokl Duck | 46m, 4 | |||||
5.11b | ★★ Aid Route | 55m, 3 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Unnamed Face Variation | 9m | |||||
5.6 | ★★★ Bay Tree Crack | 30m | |||||
5.5 | Swan Slab Chimney | 30m | |||||
Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches The Royal Arches Center | |||||||
5.7 A0 | ★★★ Royal Arches Route | 430m | |||||
Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Stoner's Highway | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy | 170m | |||||
Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock East Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ East Buttress | 360m, 9 | |||||
Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
Climbed free up to 11a, aid the rest. We bailed at pitch 9 because of a hand injury.
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Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face | |||||||
5.7 A3 VI | ★★★ Mescalito | 820m | |||||
Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Stoner's Highway | ★★★ Classic | |||||
'Stoners highway is the best 5.10 in the valley' say all the 5.13 climbers in the valley. Maybe its the only one that makes them feel something. I could believe that. I had mixed feelings originally when gen wanted to take the 5.7 bail out of the reputation opening pitch, but it turned out to be the right move because i had a right coniption on the 2nd. Gr 20 slab sequence 3m above a .2 stuffed in a pin scar 4m above the next piece. I was 10/10 scared for 20 minutes of up and downing the sequence. I tried to recall vague images of the product disclosure on my travel insurance but i couldnt even read the crimps right before my eyes. Finally pulled it, trapsed up the ramp to the chains swearing and brushing sweat from everywhere. From there it didnt let up too much either. Gen had a 5.10 crux 5m above the chains with no gear. I extended by petzl adjust and prepared for a dive to the side. Impressively (impressively?) bold for a classic.
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Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Arch Rock | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ New Dimensions | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Set off for this one at 4pm with gen on what was supposed to be my rest day. I was imagining sporty cracks but in reality yosemite multis are rarely just sporty cracks and this one turned out to be 90% v-groove thrash. There were some doubtful moments as the sunline travelled slowly up the hill behind us and light faded 2 pitches from the top but i got to have a lash at the top in bright enough conditions (i wish i could use that as an excuse for not sending). Heartbreaker flared finger jam slip 4m under the chains. Gens answers as to why i was rushing us so much lower down were revealed at the top: i forgot my headtorch. She lent me her phone torch and we rapped to the ground and ate a depressing 10pm dinner in camp 4.5 parking lot.
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Wed 31st May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Southwest Face | |||||||
5.7 R | ★★★ Snake Dike | 550m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
12.5hrs car to car. Pretty glad we planned it this time and started at 530 instead of 9! 3 person party with audrey and ariel. Solid nav efforts from audrey kept me from running after the wrong approach trail cairns like a puppy. Ariel contributed with the surprise mini fireball bottle at the top right as the clouds consumed us. Nicer climbing than i expected and good spirits only started to diminish on the hell of a hike back afterwards. Mandatory snow but slides on the east side of the dome were checked off. I booked the last 5k of the hike so i could make dinner for 25min before the girls arrived. Little did i know they were only 3min behind me! Bit of a dog act making them wait for my pasta to boil
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Mon 29th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Enigma - with Jack Seawright, Caleb | ||||||
slipped in offwidth oops. helmet was stupid but turned out to be entirely necessary for the debris dislodged by the boys onto the semihanging belay from The Enema
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5.11b | ★★ Pringles - with Jack Seawright, Caleb | 30m | |||||
spent a lot of effort getting second bolt clipped, took a look at the next sequence, sat, came down. apparently I now find climbing on bolts absolutely terrifying??
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Mon 29th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Henry Burt | 1000m | |||||
When Henry and I first arrived in Yosemite, my stoke to climb much of anything was pretty low. Our campsite in El Portal was 40 minutes out of the park and offered all the social life that retirees in rental RVs could dream of. Oppressive heat baked every wall, and day by day the Valley seemed more like a concentration camp for hoardes of ill-informed tourists than a climbing destination.
After being cited by park rangers on our third day of climbing I was ready to throw in the towel, and had Henry not been on this trip I probably would have. Nonetheless, the pile of aid gear we had both amassed beckoned to be used, and with some inspiration from Nick and Dave (and assurance there’s no rangers hiding in the stovelegs) we set off. I should note that both Henry and I wanted to climb pure alpine style, that is without fixing and hauling to Sickle. In hindsight our early arrival at El Cap Tower meant we could have done this, but on Nick’s advice we compromised by hauling every pitch (including Pine Line and first four) but fixing lines from Sickle and sleeping on the ground. Personally I think this is a big concession in style, but it possibly avoided an epic and got us ahead of the crowds, so I'm happy we did it. Day 1: Jug to Sickle. Henry led every pitch to arrive on El Cap Tower at 5:20pm. Day 2: Mini epic on the Texas flake. Originally Henry was to take the first block, but we swapped for me to lead this pitch. Didn’t die. Henry flashed the King Swing and I recovered from a pretty bad bonk to lead from Grey Bands to Camp 5. The Great Roof was seeping with slimy algae, which made backcleaning the entire thing (so that Henry could lower out) a pretty spicy experience. Day 3: Bit of a slow start while 4 all-star NIAD teams passed us. Triple-crowners Nick and Danford, Connor Herson, Tom Herbert, YOSAR rangers… we felt like the only gumbies on the wall! I led the wild bolt ladder clipping 3 bolts in the top 30 meters and we followed the final NIAD team down to the valley floor. Overall a pretty cool end to a pretty cool trip, and possibly my last log here. I've started to realise I'm not quite eloquent enough to express how I feel on bigger objectives in writing, and most often I simply don't want to. Back in Sydney in a bit |
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Spire | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Regular (Southwest Face) Route - with Caleb | 130m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
proper adventure for my first day in the valley, including a long guidebookless approach and spectacular summit. led p1+p3 clean; briefly pulled on gear seconding 5.9++ p2 variant. fully committed to v-groove on p3 well above gear, somehow stayed on more due to stubbornness than actual friction (or maybe because i was going for a substantial ride on a #0.4 whether or not I gave up, or because I thought I was on 5.7)
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Upper Yosemite Falls | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Arrowhead Arete | Crap | |||||
Gen and I woke up with the intention of doing snake hike and/or dike with the spanish crew but forgot to exchange contacts or formulate a plan the previous day and consequently left ourselves little time for the 32 hour approach and a 84 hour descent. We decided chossohead arete would be a good little replacement mission. Little did we know.. that the climb.. actually doesnt exist! We located the chosshead and began ascending the chwitchbacks to the chockface where we dropped gear and went about locating the start. The next 2 hours was a veritable highlight reel of dangerous gully chraverses and checking the chopo from the book. Gen roped up at one point, put one cam in the wall and magically turned a number 2 crack into a number 4 crack. I decided eventually that we were both pushing our 9 lives and that we should bail down the scree. Gen was incredibly patient throughout this shit show and i was also incredi.. no i wasnt. An uncompromisingly shite day in the hills.
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy | 170m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Doesnt get better than this. 4 ultra classic grade 17s stacked on top of eachother. No boring moves, directly across from el cap. Good way to send tony off. There was still a snow pack at the base with a 6m+ shrund to step over onto the climb which tony led so i was bracing for it being a really bad way to send him off.
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon New Diversions Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ New Diversions | 33m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Climbed this route after 'climbing' generator crack, the token 'im gonna go submit myself for thrashing by a wide crack on top rope' in the valley. New diversions however was an absorbing lead at the grade and an outrageous traverse across the face to a watermelon sized chicken head, no pro, i guess im slinging it. Then mantle said watermelon without kicking your only pro off and tip toe across to a piton. Gen, my climbing partner for the day boldly jumped on the pointy end afterwards and whipped off the chicken head pro! Glad to not have the same thing happen.
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Sat 27th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Upper Yosemite Falls | |||||||
5.8 A2 V | ★★ Lost Arrow Spire - with Camilla Satte | 430m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 24th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Super Slacker Highway | 180m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great adventure route. Pick your own line up 'the wall of knobs'. Many knobs to choose from but only 2 of them clipped the chains at the top of pat and jack pillar. Tony has rediscovered himself as a chimney climber - positively brimming with joy as he back pressed the final chute to the summit. I expect to have to talk him out of free soloing steck salathe.
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Tue 23rd May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Above The Cookie | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Separate Reality | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Magnificent rap in and views from the sloping ledge. Each of us had 2 punts. Not as splitter as the bridge crack in bowen hills but alright for rock i guess. Heart broken by the rude boulder at the end but with a bit of rope help the roof turn was very cool. Nice sesh
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Tue 23rd May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Leaning Tower FiFi Buttress, West Face | |||||||
5.11c |
★★★ Voyager
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Tue 23rd May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Washington Column East Face | |||||||
5.11c |
★★★ Astroboy
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5.10a
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5.11c
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5.11c IV | ★★★ Astroman | ||||||
Onsighted upto the Harding slot and then hoofed and hissed until I finally emerged an hour later. Probably as close as I'll get to experiencing child birth.
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Tue 23rd May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Catchy | 30m | |||||
Tue 23rd May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Sentinel Creek | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Manana | 35m | |||||
5.10d | ★★★ Ying-Yang | 35m | |||||
5.11a | ★ Yami Shami | 15m, 7 | |||||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
El capihoofa!! Finally on the big stone.. The first couple hundred metres but still felt like a 4 year old in a candy shop up in the sea of rock. Bringing sunnies up there would be good beta. That white rock reflects light like snow. Insecure and exciting low angle climbing but never full cheesegrater potential (for me cos shane led the sketchy 5th pitch). An el cap adventure wouldnt have been complete without some french free.. which was the only reason i grabbed the draws instead of sending. We lay on the mammoth ledge top out at 1pm staring up at salathe wall with slack jaws for 20 min before beginning the descent. Getting to rap fixed lines down to the ground for a 5 minute descent to the cars is also a luxury i will miss.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Washington Column East Face | |||||||
5.11c IV | ★★★ Astroman | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
I - Jack Seawright - solemnly offer my deepest apologies for displaying some of the most pathetic climbing this king line has seen in its proud 50 year history. I had convinced myself probably too easily that i had what it took to climb astroman while tony, fresh off a double rest day, was rearing to go. We passed some young hoofas on the trail that offered to let us go first. We accepted a little too quickly to be considered polite and then ratted behind their backs about how their mums would be angry at them for being late to school pickup. The tables swiftly turned as they onsighted everything behind us and patiently waited at the belay stations as we racked up the following highlight reel: pitch 2: tony fails to locate totem placement off the deck for boulder problem, rips poorly placed dragonfly out of pin scar with hand, then aids original choss corner. I accidentally king swing across slab above on second after sweating off crimp. Pitch 3 enduro corner: I sloffed up the pitch with 20 rests on lead after telling everyone i planned to onsight the pitch. Pitch 5: I bailed off the last section of the pitch due to what i still consider a pretty serious unprotected 5.10 face sequence, and we rapped down the route past the kids who certainly seemed capable enough to find their own way home after school. The only success was that we didnt have an epic on the harding slot!.. because we didnt make it that far. Back at the campsite i copped a 'free dinner and free pants, i just wish i could free astroman'. Yes, i now reuse my jokes in crag writeups.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Northeast Buttress | 280m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great adventure. Probably second tallest rock climb ive done to caucasus corner in the bumbles. First time climbing with Ina. She threw down to get through the 5 straight pitches of chimney weirdness. As expected with the incredibly ominous 5.9++ rating and learning that one particular 5.14 valley climber didnt send this thing, there was some suspiciously tricky 5.9 but nothing too insane. I got stuck for about 5 minutes on the 7th pitch. Having forgot my headtorch, i was relieved that we topped the climb around 4 and got some drop dead views of the nose from 1000m off the valley floor directly across the valley from it. 'The sketchiest part of the day was jack drinking water from the sludge river 2 minutes from the carpark as far as im concerned' - Ina.
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Fri 19th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Dave Burt | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 19th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Above The Cookie | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Separate Reality | 15m | |||||
Second shot. Although I’m a little flat about the style of ascent (not being a true redpoint), I’m pretty content to leave it at that.
Reason being, while the roof is long, you only need to place 2 pieces in it to make it “safe” from a groundfall (ignoring the first one placed from a hands free rest). Given how hard it is to clean, spending a whole day just to place 2 cams seems a bit contrived. But full respect to those who do! |
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Butterballs | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So god damn good. Came out with mattias early to beat the sun, jugged straight up skipping the most exhausting warm up pitch in existence. Mattias jumped on and lashed up 6 pieces then came down, i tried to rose-point it through half-preplaced gear. Pretty solid crack but had a footslip and a good whip at half height which probably is the crux depending on style preference. The top is intreguing in the v groove and the victory jug feels so amazing to caress that itll make your hang dog feel like a long term project red point. Stoked to get out and get some fingers stuck on this pitch that consensus says is the best 5.11 in the valley. At this point im on board with it
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches The Royal Arches Center | |||||||
5.7 A0 | ★★★ Royal Arches Route | 430m | |||||
World record! Most bails in a single day. Let me explain my rationale. The night before, tony and i had poured through the guide to decide on the ultimate 'big day'. We had decided to wake up at 530. Unbeknownst to us, this would serve perfectly to maximize bail opportunities. Tony even was ready on time in the morning. We started up royal and after i lost the route and accidentally simul climbed off route into a 10+ roof traverse, we got back on track only to see the rest of the actual route covered by a turbulent waterfall. To be fair, we had actually been told about this, but we thought it would be a 'japanese trad waterfall'. We retreated, and also let the opportunity to link into crest jewel via the hiking summit go to the wayside. 2 bails and its not even 10am. Luckily astroman goes into shade at 1030! Unluckily we forgot to borrow dylans rps. 3 bails. Drove to el cap for south by south west. Left the car, realised it faces south or south west or some combination there of and would be copping intense sun. East buttress was consulted but yosar was doing rescue training. 5 bails down, we spied the moratorium. Known for seasonal wetness on the last pitch, we were ready to climb wet 11b just to get something done. After 1 (albeit incredible and varied corner) pitch, i brought tony up. He gingerly clipped in and told me that he had shat his pants and needed to go down. We sat on this el cap standard belay ledge admiring the beautiful day that had somehow forced 6 multi pitch bails on us in the space of 9 hours. We went back to the camp 4 toilets so i could bash the mirror with my head and tony could bash the toilet with his insides.
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Sentinel Creek | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Hari-kiri | ||||||
Post rest day and Felt like shit. So decided to take another rest day
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock East Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ East Buttress | 360m, 9 | |||||
5.9 A0. Fucked the last move on the 10c slab.ill Blame the sun for that one
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Chapel Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Drive By Shooting | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sweaty warm shoes are key.
2nd shot
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5.10b | ★★★ Heathenistic Pursuit | 40m | |||||
Wed 17th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Camp 4 Wine Boulders Wine Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★ Hit Man | 2m | |||||
V2 | ★ Millis Mantel | ||||||
Wed 17th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Camp 4 Wine Boulders Blue Suede Shoes Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★★ Ver's Werner | 5m | |||||
Wed 17th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Camp 4 Bachar Cracker Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Bachar Cracker | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sickkk!
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Lena's Lieback | 58m |