Ascents in World by Vanessa Wills

No whaling required.

Probably V0. The pine needles on top out make it clean as you go. Interesting I cut crimps.

Nice linkupof crimprails across face.

A few of the top out flakes look a bit dubious

Probably done off the top ropes a bit, it was fairly clean.

Just the back half via alt start into cave and onwards. Did it clean to last bolt second go, but hadn’t refreshed memory as to the last moves on first go due to heinous rope drag so fell victim to the Booladelah factor. Nice to be back here, but the rock is so sharp!

The usual warm up in light rain

Rpt. Some worthwhile committing moves on this off poor holds. Climbs completely independent of route to left to same anchors

Rpt. The first bolt position is not in a good location for this route, it works better for Gastric. Hard start for grade.

My left hand strayed towards the HS holds down low, as the right heel, lay off sloper to side pull felt more 25 for my height, and still tough up top. Not sure where the wires go, would be shallow placements in a flake I think- would be better with extra bolt and a second anchor bolt

Rpt

Rpt

Rpt, lovely shady and breezy conditions after midday

Did it as a layback the whole way up, but it wouldn’t get a 16 at monkey face

I just did stuff and consulted guide later, again this line seemed nice. Nice area and surprisingly nice rock, good work on the development- and some good opportunities for a clean up of bogan rubbish.

Not sure that the blob resembles a brain, probably a bit soft for v5, but the starting dead point to crimp suits me

Got to the crimp on slab but nervous without a spotter. Nice to there

Seems obvious to go straight up arete from jug, but then I’m not a boulderer and don’t understand the rules

Got to third bolt but not a good one to have done on trashed tips.

Ate away my finger skin going direct on the crux. Mc Dougalled a bit in the end as I could hold the sloper and get feet up well with a half pad undercling but couldn’t reach the good hold

Much better than I was expecting

The one I hadn’t done. Finished up Karinya by mistake. Found going direct at 3rd bolt quite tough for grade

Rpt

Contrived.

Rpt. Slopers.

My taste has clearly changed. Did this 20 yrs ago and thought it average. It was the best route we did today.

Better than route to left

Crap rock, only good move is the starting mantle ( if you don’t chimney)

Rpt.

You definitely can’t finish out left. The anchors are straight up on a large block in front of the dead tree. The final move is the longest. Very height dependent and no chance of holding the dyno sloper for my height even with toe hooks in the heat today.

Rpt, another bouldery number, probably my favourite route, had to brush sand out of all the incuts

This always makes me laugh for a 19, like many of that grade here, but it’s a nice climb.

Felt a bit pumped for a route that wasn’t too steep.

Really nice climb in 3 parts

Fun and interesting arete, now off to the airport

Lovely technical finger seam

Tough crux for shorter people

Felt stout as a warm up

5.9 on MP and in guidebook that seems fair, hardest start of the day. Stellar route once above the slippery start

The most enjoyable route of the day

The 3 star routes at Piddington would be lucky to get one star here.

Tough initial crack, then pleasant climbing through roof. A bit sandy.

Really nice climbing and protects well

A bit manky in the middle ( with minimal pro) but fun start up V groove

Lovely slab climbing

Works ok as a warm up in the rain. Temps gone from about 24 C to 9 C max in Tennessee.

Very bouldery start, took me quite a few attempts to get as hard to work due to bolt being way behind you. Above easier climbing, though second roof fun. Two main attempts

Quite a steep little number. Good into to the blocky rock.

Felt Australian 23. Very cruxy, Had to work hard second go, the steep crimp section is quite full on

Lovely climb , several fully horizontal moves but extremely juggy.

Very traddy start and chicken heads galore.

Last climb at RRG this trip, wish we had got on this earlier. One go only to clean. Got to half way, had rest, all moves quite ok

Not much easier than the 11c I Onsighted at the Gallery

A feisty warm up.