Ascents in World as Red point or Ground up red point as sport by Josh Ellis

 

1. Thought this was gonna’ be my first proper red point go. Got to the first “crux” and somehow my previous beta didn’t work anymore. Had to find my third beta through there. 🤷‍♀️ Climbed to the top, lowered to the bottom of the head wall. Climbed the headwall in one link on top rope. Very pumped, felt dubious.

2. Scrappy start, somehow got into the flow on the headwall and just shook my way to the top. Right on the limit for the last few moves. Bloody brilliant!

Mega fun roofiness! Thought I was on for it second shot but punted near the end so had to give it a third to finish it off. Probably more like 26 if your kneebar game is strong! Bit of excitement when Stanislav Likane broke a draw!

Great, pumpy endurance climbing, no real hard moves. Biffed it second shot with silly beta at the top. Third go was a winner.

First 27 in the mountains! 🤟 Tried pretty hard to get it putting the clips in, but fell off after the last bolt, heart breaking! Absolute limit for that last move, I chuck up a high heel/knee scum thing at the end and whichever side of my leg the rope goes it always feels wrong! Mega awesome/scary finale and a true grovel!

Went down easy first go today. Great route.

Went up to set up a top rope for beer crate stacking, ended up going to the top! Felt pretty chill when finding the right holds/knee bars.

Perfect afternoon condies, felt cruisy today, just had loads more beans I think! Probably the last outstanding “project” from previous trips.

Actually felt pretty comfortable with the right beta.

 

1. Could not work out a sequence for the top at all. Did not feel possible.

2. After watching Will Gregson and gsmizz find sequences that worked for them, tried Will’s on the second burn and to my surprise it went. 🤷‍♀️

 

1. Putting the draws on, spent quite a while trying the crux section a few different ways, none really felt particularly decent percentage.

2. After seeing Will Gregson nearly flash the thing, I settled on the beta he used, tried real hard, hit the jug at the crux but cut feet and dropped with a suitable amount of screaming. Pulled back on and finished, came down feeling like it was do-able.

3. Was pretty efficent up to the rest but definetly was feeling the previous goes, went up to the crux determined and pulled it off through sheer stubbornness that I didn't want Willy to beat me.

 

1. Felt harder than the first try the other day! Think I just did the roof a bit worse than my first go and it cooked me!

2. Accidentally cut feet through the roof, changed my beta on most of the headwall, practically an onsight attempt again, but it went this time!

 

1. Missed the bloody obvious knee bar in the first boulder problem, I’m supposed to be the knee bar guy! 🤷‍♂️

2. Immediately got my hands reversed, what a bellend.

3. Should’ve flashed at least the bottom crux tbh, oh well. Cool climb. https://youtu.be/OsllLi3gj30

 

1. Blew the onsight by both falling and clipping a wrong bolt. Felt pretty nails!

2. Found a clutch knee bar that I previously missed right before the roof sequence, saved me I think! One of my favourite climbs on Kaly so far!

Couldn’t remember enough to be useful, couldn’t get past the second draw! Sussed it, came down for another go.

Proper fight at the top! Pumped! Awesome route!

Felt cruisy today!

Just needed a wee left foot adjustment to make it possible. Thanks to Will Gregson for the beta, might’ve flashed it if I saw him climb it first… 🤷‍♀️

Nice to get redemption on this one after being so close on the flash go last trip. Thanks James benefer for the putting ‘er up and the send catch!

Went for a red hot flash go with some beta from B1 and to put the draws on for JH in the morning, punted going for the break. Came back in the evening to finish it, expecting to put it away in one. First evening go was pretty crap, with the clouds parted and the sun baking down on me, it all started feeling too bloody hard. Got back on with 30 mins of daylight left and beautiful cool condies, went down with relative ease. Mega classic route, can’t wait to never go into/out of that hole again though!

Tried to campus the crux first go, obviously didn’t work. Second go was exciting when I somehow invented new crux beta!

Miles off on the onsight, went with a fair amount of try hard second shot. Really nice sustained and varied climbing.

One more beta change then done.

Spicy potato.

Brilliant. Crux was mental for me, could of done it 2nd go, but wimped out. Had knee pads on and found a pretty bomber knee bar right before the cruxy sequence at the top which made it way less sustained.

Tried it a few weeks back, felt do-able but kept stuffing up my beta. Returned with more skin, new belayer and still psyched. Punted off right at the anchors second go then got it on my third. January is definitely not the optimal season for it but too excited not to try it again!

Got it fourth go of the day. Bottom crux felt ok for me, just took a lot of goes to warm up the head game. Amazing climbing, amazing crag, amazing day!

First climb of the day, felt miles better while fresh! Will Gregson put the draws on this time too which definitely helped. Pretty happy with this red dot.

This took me way too many goes lol. 😂

Was pretty determined to do it first go of the day, stared confident, felt good on the wall, remembered my beta perfectly... Foot slipped at the crux.

Got 'er done second shot of the day.

Basically all mobility/pressing and very little pulling. Nice stretch after attempting the very pumpy 7c!

First 7b in France! 🎉

Feeling the 5 days in a bit but knew where I was going. If I went for the 2 finger pocket after the crux yesterday it would have taken 3 goes rather than 6. C’est la vie. 🤷‍♀️

Was a good candidate for my first 7b flash but turns out I needed my hands the other way round for the crux. Ah well.

Crux felt pretty good but somehow got super pumped at the end and skipped the last draw as I was too pumped to clip it. Bit of an exciting finish! Fun climb but I think "Keket Blues" is classier.

Spooged off the crux first go, but I think my sequence was wrong anyway so don’t think I would’ve got the onsight.

Got it second go by the skin of my teeth!

Probably could have done it putting the draws on tbh.

Think I had it in my head it was really hard from a few months ago. I remember it being twice as long and half the bolts, funny what a few months of climbing can do!

Lovely route.

Fun sideways tomfoolery! Dropped the onsight but took a couple of tries to sus the beta, so don’t reckon I would’ve gotten it either way. Second “go” was silly mistake down low. Third go felt pretty cruisey with the right beta.

Felt cruisy with some skin and the right beta! Being too cold to feel my fingers was probably advantageous too!

Thought it’d be nice to send something at Ravine for a change! Jordan Edwards first 25!

Bloody burly! Was going for the onsight and fell at like the second move! 😂 Dogged it to the top feeling like the send was out of the question. Went back up to “get the draws down” and somehow eeked it out with my forearms cramping the whole way!

Sick route, felt a lot easier once I put the draws on!

So close to the onny’ to make a perfect day! Oh well them’s the breaks. 🤷‍♀️ Bloody desperate over the lip!

Pretty close on the ony, think I read it roughly right but kinda misjudged one of the crimps through the crux. Subsequent goes they got real slippery, guess I had a bit of a breeze first go. Scraped through on the third burn. Fun route! Kneebars galore!

Nice to put this one away. Tried it years ago, was super intimidated, couldn’t pull crux and probably wouldn’t have done the run out if I could get there. Felt hard getting the draws on, but knowing where to go makes a huge difference, doubt many people onsight this one. Great value route!

Early morning session with gsmizz after my evening punt the night before. gsmizz pointed out the foot I missed the night before, getting me through the crux. Made some new noises I haven’t made before when I managed the top!

Misjudged the sloper on the ony (as I’m sure many people do!) went pretty easy second go. Fun, gymnastic climbing.

Thought I’d salvage the day when I realised “Brother” wasn’t going to go down. Felt pretty chill with the beta and some fresh skin!

2 stars for the amount of laughs, screams and general tomfoolery. Onsight was a shambles, didn’t even finish. Second go at the end of the day, felt pretty cruisy. Crux is definitely the 21!

Tried to avoid the undercling that looks like it might fall off on the onsight. Pulled on it second go and made it much easier! Great route. Nice to know I still get up a 25!

Tried a silly match on the onny go. Bloody sweaty condies second go but felt pretty chill.

Many outrageous drive-bys… that I managed to avoid! Pretty exciting foot pop on the send go that I wish I caught on film!

Crimps felt crisp-y today, still a two-er though. Sick onny by a haggard Chris Martinez though!