Ascents in World as sport by o_g

Fell at last bolt on P1. O/S P2 & 3. Like Waterworks Quarry......

Bailed at second last bolt. Craptacular

P1 only. Tony & Ian were climbing a route under P2, so we though it smart to not tempt fate on a 2nd ascent. Hard bouldery start. Well bolted pitch.

Climbed this with tom. Well bolted route, with 3 pitches about the same difficulty. Will get tonnes of traffic!

Assumed the guidebook, which said 30m and 29 quickdraws, was wrong and took 20 quickdraws. It was wrong, but not about the number of draws. Looks like the anchor has been moved higher, and it's now a 40m pitch. Ordinary first 10 metres, then classic climbing above that.

After work session. Onsighted 1st pitch (22), then had 3 or 4 sits on the second pitch (and spent some time hiding in a grovelly corner right of the line). Had a second burn at P2, did it with one rest. At crux above roof, reach far left to sidepull, right to undercling, right foot high step onto hold at right knee, udge up. At second crux, ignore slopey hold, lay left of edge get right foot on poor face smear, throw to jug rail.

Got about ten metres up the extension before a misread had me off. Wouldn't have lasted much longer anyway, it's pretty sustained up there.

Followed ben. Still a few loose flakes being pulled off. P1 is nothing special (easy to step left to rest in cr) P2 is great. Long technical arete.

With aaron. He led P1, i led P2. Great views. Rest day climb. Skin was trashed, had to be careful with sharp holds near top.

With aaron. He led P1, i led P2. Great views. Rest day climb. Skin was trashed, had to be careful with sharp holds near top.

Seconded Roger to clean as a warm up. Not sustained, but a long atmospheric route from the bottom to the top of the crag.

Classic continuous off vertical face climbing on open dishes and pockets.

This felt hard. Not a great warm up for me, and not of the quality of other routes we did. Some loose rock. I guess there was a reason it was one of the only routes free.

This wall always delivers.

At one point I was able to touch bolts on three routes at the same time, so they are a bit squeezed in. But once this route gets into the excellent tufa flow up high it gets real good.

Had to have a crack, after Matt and Pauls awesome onsight and flash. Came of 5m above the 'Hotel' cave on the flash, then ok second shot. Almost pumped out moving left to the rest 5m below the chain.

Dogged my way up to see how it looks. Needs more cleaning under the roof, and the roof itself will be hard for me. May have to wait till summer.

Another 6c+ fall miraculously turned into a 7a fall by the new guidebook. Awesome climbing, the hands free rest ledge detracts a bit though. I unexpectedly fell of an undercling tufa at 3/4 height. Thought I made a stupid mistake but saw other people fall off at the same spot later.

Warming up with Matt. Nice wall in a nice area.

A chossy route on the far right. Beggars can't be choosers when it's a busy day. All the difficulty packed into the last 5 metres. Pulled to hard on a pocket. Ouch.

Good climbing. Nice pockets and rock.

Fingery crux at the bottom, then a bouldery crux up high. Had to drop the clutch on the high crux.

Last climbing day. Crag was quiet, great! Zero breeze, humid. Not great! Everyone else is smarter than me.... Route is a bit scrappy down low, but then is lovely climbing.

Not bad. I don't remember much about it....

Nice thin wall climbing. Pretty good stuff.

Apparently I have done this before, and thought it "good". I'm upgrading it to very good. Perhaps the 10 years of traffic have smoothed some prickly holds, or perhaps I'm now more easily pleased. I made the crux hard for myself, by reading the best sequence of good one pad sidepulls with some hip twists using two obvious two pad flat 45 degree footers that were glistening glassily, and deciding that my trust level was low and I would revert to some good old fashioned front on mingging crimping.

Tried to repeat it after adding a bolt. Failed.... Gear note. Solo first 6m. Matched green c3 & 3 sentinal nut in horizontal. Then 2rp and 4 bd brass offet, then important blue wildc zero. Red c3 in horizontal, then matched green and purple c4 in horizontal. Bolt, bolt, 6 sentinal nut under roof. Bolt. 5 wc rock on ledge. Green zero and grey c3 in skyfall corner, traverse to bolt. Red zero.

Really had to think my way up this loooong pitch.

Last route of the day. Ok, but pale in comparison to earlier routes. Felt hard for the grade, and very close to route on left.

Pumpy as a warm up. Didnt look great from the ground but good climbing.

The top half is top quality climbing.

Thought I would continue up the extension as it looked good. Nice fingery complex face climbing. A few grades harder than what I was expecting.

Technical wall climbing on small positive crimpy side pulls. Clips are a bit tricky.

Great climb, and a viable warm up. Builds in difficulty to a crux on smallish holds up high.

Awesome route. Only thing that detracts is it feels slightly contrived not stepping right to get a rest in the crack in a couple of spots. Classic sustained face climbing.

In the guide as an extension but would be better to climb it as a seperate route from the rock&roll cave. Steep and insecure moves above the ledge then awesome steep underclings and sidepulls. I dogged up the first three draws to eliminate the ledge fall before ticking.

Long 38m pitch, with only one vauge rest at half height. Got to cruxy bulge at 3/4 height on the flash, then dogged to the top. Fell of at the same spot 2nd try. Be ok if I could remember a sequence longer than 2 or 3 moves..... y

Came back for a quick razz on the last day. Bolt to bolted it and thought I had it sorted, but slipped out of the pockets leaving the crux bulge. Went to the top, then tried the crux again. Didnt feel like it was going to happen on link so bailed.

Did all the moves, another bloody sustained pitch. Tried to lead it clean, but pumped out. Need to work the rests better.

Had a play while waiting for other routes to become available. Sustained and difficult to read small pebble climbing.

Climbed P1 and P2 combined. Makes a great long pitch. P2 felt no harder than P1.

Amazing. Like the whole wall, this route has its share of loose rock, but the long traverse is one of the more out there pieces of climbing ive done. Single rope is fine (take some long draws to minimise rope drag). Probably easiest to clean by having the route seconded.

The thought crossed my mind near the top of this route that it might be the best pitch ive ever climbed. A full 40m of pockets, some filled with quartz crystals, a leaning overhanging arapalies like corner at the top. Get on it.

Really had to think through the sequency crux at 3/4 height.

Ordinary start, but really liked the top.

Epic granite journey. Ten metres of easy corner to get to the first bolt, then follow the steel and holds untill the holds dissapear into slabville. We rapped of the 2 hanger belay, to the belay on AB, then rapped again.

Got through the crux rootlet with some flexibility testing high stepping. Then weaved up the tufa system. Thought it was in the bag at the top of the tufa. Looked for the usual jugsto the chain..... No jugs..... Grey bulge with small crimps. Big problem! Just managed to squeek through. Felt hard for the grade to me.

The initial steep bouldery wall is easier than it appears, and the thin wall up high is technical and thoughtful.

Some corally holds down low, but nice spaced in cut holds up high. All these routes are longer than they look to be from the ground.

Really, really good climb. Get on it.

Only did pitch one. Great route on incut pockets.

Climbed the first pitch (to anchors under the 7b). Tidy.

Worth the long wait. Climbed as single pitch (needs two or three long slings to manage rope drag). Felt hard for the grade, but brilliant positions. Crux was rapping off while using Rogers MegaJul. God I hate the thing. Roger wouldn't let me throw it into the jungle, so I had to throw it away onto a gravel path so Roger could retrieve it. I then offered him 100 euro to buy it off him so that I could smash it with a rock 'office space printer style'. He isn't selling. He has two and seems to insist his multi pitch partners use one. It's some form of pycopathy where he enjoys inflicting pain.