Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2472
points
| 23 | ★★★ Boisterous - with Will Vidler | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Jan 2019 | |||
A rather aesthetic intricate slab, though not hard at the grade. Pleasant finger-jugging with a few big moves all the way to the anchor. A great cure to a hangover, right Will Vidler ?
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|||||||||
2471
points
| 25 | ★★★ Vertical Romance - with Tom Collins | 30m, 11 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 23rd Feb 2020 | |||
1st shot today, 2nd shot total (thanks for putting the gear on, Tom!) After finding this really hard previously, it was good to feel really strong on it today, despite not having "worked" any of it. Proper classic face climbing, super-sustained, hard cruxes, great rock. My favourite of the "harder" bolted routes at the Point.
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2470
points
| 30 | ★★★ Mr Universe - with Will Vidler, Harry Kadi | 18m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Mar 2019 | |||
2 laps. Wow, surprisingly awesome. I couldn't touch the micro-crimp move past the 3rd bolt, but I eventually did all the other moves with a few bits of linkage. An awesome, resistance test piece with lots of challenging moves. Maybe one day this is something to return to.
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|||||||||
2470
points
| 7a | ★★ KalyPige | 35m, 17 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Oct 2018 | |||
A brilliant long techo tufa pitch with so muh long climbing. In the 1000% humidity of the day I only JUST managed to avoid sweating off this thing... which made it kinda scary.
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|||||||||
2469
points
| 30 | ★★ Mr Meaner - with Ben Jenga, Jason, Emil Mandyczewsky, Mitch Perkins, Magdalena de la Torre, Lucas C, Heath Black | 22m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Mar 2019 | |||
3 investigatory laps. Clean to the "gaston crux" (I only ever managed to link this entire sequence clean once). Then okay linkage in sections to the top. Much better than I expected, with lots of very funky climbing. But until I can get the gaston crux dialled, this remains something of a pipe dream. The top move could be a heartbreaker.
|
|||||||||
2469
points
| 7a | ★★★ Lolita - with Matt Minus | 25m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Sep 2018 | |||
A bit too demanding as a warmup! Only just kept it together at the crux boulder, and the nutty runouts to the top were quite gripping. A route of all angles.
|
|||||||||
2468
points
| 7a | ★★★ Kerveros - with Matt Minus | 30m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Tue 25th Sep 2018 | |||
Quintessentual tufa jugging. Pumpy and with a few challenging moves. Try not to get lost in the sea of chalk or atop the glassy polished finish.
|
|||||||||
2465
points
| 26 25 | ★★★ Mixed Business - with Heath Black, Nick Roach, Harry Kadi | 40m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Feb 2020 | |||
Good to finally get this one cleared up. It's a lot of effort, but damn it's rewarding. Beautiful featured face climbing with a hard crux.
|
|||||||||
2464
points
| 26 | ★★ Ordeal by Fur - with Tom Collins | 18m, 8 | Vaucluse | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Sep 2023 | |||
Almost a classic, but that its essentially about gr24 with a v6+ crux. Night time attempt, 2 shots, awesome second lap but still couldn't link that crux, unfortunately. The rest of the route is great, though.
|
|||||||||
2464
points
| 28 | ★★★ Pulse - with Stephen Varney | 20m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th May 2021 | |||
2 more shots. Good progress despite hideous conditions (the ironstone holds were just wet in the alpine freeze!). Got all the moves sorted, and managed a 1-fall in overlapping sections. Finally figured out my crux clip. Game on...
NB: Shoulder exploded a few days later... Game off. |
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2463
points
| 23 | ★★ Rudolf the Bloody Reindeer - with Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 15m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Dec 2018 | |||
My favourite of this wall, mostly cause its a bit more sustained. The new direct start is worthwhile, and the main crux is fun thinness.
|
|||||||||
2462
points
| 25 | ★ Windtalker - with Harry Kadi | 20m, 12 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Jan 2020 | |||
2nd shot. Not a drop of chalk on this one, but probably very chalksight-able. Actually pretty good, certainly no worse than most of its neighbours. From the chossy ledge up (essentially after the first 5m) is all class, and reasonably sustained. Definitely deserves more traffic.
|
|||||||||
2462
points
| 23 | ★★ Geek Heathen | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 26th Dec 2018 | |||
Not the most inspiring rock, but when its this steep, juggy and thuggy at such a tame grade, who can complain.
|
|||||||||
2462
points
| 28 | ★★ Zapt - with Stephen Varney | 20m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd May 2021 | |||
2 laps. Been a few years since I was last on this, and I still dont particularly like it. Mostly pretty cruisy, but for 2 razor-blade nightmare crimps. Might be okay in better conditions, but still not high on my list.
|
|||||||||
2461
points
| 25 | ★★ Grape Power (Link-up) - with Ben Jenga | 20m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Jan 2020 | |||
2nd shot. Bungled the one hard move on the onsight. Maybe a bit easier than Grape Hour for the red point? Hard to say which is better, both are worthy. Perhaps Grape Hours finale is more engaging.
|
|||||||||
2458
points
| 22 | ★★ Sahelanthropus - with Philip Barker | 14m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th May 2024 | |||
Repeat. Absolutely cruised this. No way it was ever 23 (not sure what I was thinking?) Awesome technical climbing on weirdly good rock the whole way.
|
|||||||||
2458
points
| 25 | ★ Horrace Herod - with Heath Black | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 11th Jan 2020 | |||
Hmmm. I contrived the hell out of it (and did the super-direct start) to "earn the grade". Hard to grade this one, as it really is only 1 hard move, but it feels really strenuous, though conditions were quite slimey. I'd like to say I cruised this on the send, but for one move I definitely didn't.
|
|||||||||
2458
points
| 28 | ★★★ Pulse - with Stephen Varney | 20m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th May 2021 | |||
3 Laps. Good to get back on this and start piecing it together again. Not great linkage, but the moves felt easier than I remember. It's linking them that's hard. Super-sustained steep face climbing with a gnarly finale!
|
|||||||||
2457
points
| 6b+ | ★★ Gino e La Sfiga | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Mar 2023 | |||
Awesome second half up the steepness, but the lower half (on funkey blocks) was too slippery to be enjoyable.
|
|||||||||
2456
points
| 7b+ | ★★★ Los Franceses | 35m | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 25th Dec 2014 | |||
Utterly stoked. First ONSIGHT 26! The first half is 23/24 roof crack climbing through 2.5 roofs with hard thin powerful moves to turn the lips. The upper half is steep technical tufa-ing with tricky feet that required me to draw on everything I've learned in 4.5 weeks in spain to get through. At one point I was too tired to use the crucial clips and unable to clip, so with a monster runout I committed to a fully fledged dyno to what I thought was a jug it was!). I gave this EVERYTHING!
|
|||||||||
2455
points
| 26 | ★★ Hello Rabbit Risotto (Hello Rabbit Risotto (linkup)) - with Drew Henman, Jason, Jason Smith, Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins | 22m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Nov 2018 | |||
3rd shot today. Bungled the end of the crux on my 2nd shot, changed my beta (threw technique out the window and went for strong-man beta instead), and kept it together on the next lap. Super-duper cruxy (which is quite hard on the skin), but great and varied climbing surrounding the crux. Similar, but probably more interesting than Captain Kurko.
|
|||||||||
2455
points
| 23 | ★★ Pudding Pullers - with Michael Moore, Jared Anderson | 10m | Bulahdelah | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Oct 2022 | |||
Clean repeat. Wild for the grade, and a great re-introduction to the cave
|
|||||||||
2453
points
| 24 25 | ★★★ Unfork Ita | 35m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Feb 2018 | |||
Brilliant! Great rock and climbing up a stunning series of linked features, and avoids the poxy, snappy boulder-problem of Nikita. Lots of challenging moves but also lots of good holds. Should be on everyone's hit list.
|
|||||||||
2452
points
| 27 | FA ★★★ Dawn-Drawn Wonga Pigeon | 32m, 19 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Sep 2017 | |||
Finally went down! 3rd shot today, 10th lead lap in total (many of those very loooooong sessions throwing myself at the crux boulder), and 2 circumcised finger tips. Not sure of the grade, 100% open to opinions. I felt like I worked (and trained) harder than I would for any 26, but who knows? Interested to see how a short-er climber approaches this. The rest of the climb (outside the crux) is rad, but much easier, though the upper-crux could spit people off as well.
|
|||||||||
2451
points
| 24 | ★★ Godhead's Lament - with Will Vidler | 25m, 11 | Bare Rock | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | |||
Clean Repeat. A nice lower-tier steep route to escape the rain (hence why we were here today). Given that I originally graded this 25 (???) I actually think it's probably quite easy for a 24 (!!!). Absolutely cruised it today.
|
|||||||||
2451
points
| 27 | ★★ Armistice Direct - with Matt King | 15m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Jun 2022 | |||
Just the one shot. Absolutely cruiiiiised the part shared with Armistice, but couldn't properly work out the single move to gain the razor-blade roof pocket. I "sort of" had a way of doing it, but was too scared to commit (for fear of severing a finger). Maybe there's a trick?
Fun steep jugging with much time foot-free, guarded by a single very hard move! |
|||||||||
2449
points
| 24 | ★★ Rat$ - with Rob Medlicott | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Apr 2021 | |||
Clean repeat. A proper gnarly sequence off the ledge. The hardest moves (and possibly the coolest) on this wall of the Freezer. Got to try hard.
|
|||||||||
2448
points
| 24 | ★★ Jaqueline Hyde - with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Geoff Johnston-Hall, Will Monks, Jason | 15m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Jan 2020 | |||
Repeat x 2. Still good even in 1 million percent humidity.
|
|||||||||
2448
points
| 28 | ★★★ Bad Dog, Bad Dog, No Biscuit - with Match | 22m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Apr 2021 | |||
2 more laps. Here for a draw retrieval mission, but still did some of my best linkage ever, despite the time away from this route. Cant wait for the shoulder to get better to attack it more wholeheartedly.
|
|||||||||
2447
points
| 23 | ★★ Funky Venga Bus | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | |||
Clean repeat. Cruised it this time. Great warm up.
|
|||||||||
2447
points
| 23 | ★★★ Sensory Overload - with Simmo | 20m, 12 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | |||
Clean repeat. Dreamy for a sport climb.
|
|||||||||
2447
points
| 26 | ★★ Jumping Viper - with Will Vidler, Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Lucas C, Jason McCarthy | 28m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Oct 2018 | |||
4th shot today via the original Will Monks version. Surely the all-free version must be 27++? Doesn't look like much, but climbs spectacularly. The lower half is completely independent, and is classic Taipan bulge-y oozing with a gripping trad start. The upper half is simply spectacular and sustained techo slimper-ing. I had to make a fair bit of noise to coax myself up this as my last climb of the trip.
|
|||||||||
2447
points
| 24 | ★★ Rat$ - with Heath Black, Match | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Mar 2021 | |||
Repeat attempt, not clean today. With no chalk on the crux, I overcommitted to a non-hold... doh. The upper half of this is quite a bit harder than its neighbour, and the rock is great.
|
|||||||||
2446
points
| 23 | ★★ Funky Venga Bus | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Oct 2022 | |||
Clean repeat. It'd been quite a few months since I last did this, and I almost fell off today!
|
|||||||||
2446
points
| 5.12b | ★★★ Abiyoyo - with Will Vidler | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Dec 2019 | |||
Mega climbing on a waterpolished steep face, but very cruxy. I came up with a moderately ludicrous drive-by cutloose for the send.
|
|||||||||
2446
points
| 24 | ★★ Good Big Dog - with Tom Collins | 22m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Mar 2021 | |||
Clean repeat. I got rather pumped on this as a warmup, especially given that the entire middle section had no chalk on it.
Much better than I remember! After the first 6m, this is classic. |
|||||||||
2446
points
| 24 | ★★ Unity (Rat$ Direct) - with Tom Collins | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Mar 2021 | |||
Clean repeat. Rather easy for the grade, but the upper half of this is great techo climbing up the corner-feature.
|
|||||||||
2446
points
| 26 | ★★★ Rattlesnake Shake - with Will Vidler, Mitch Perkins, Ben Jenga, Christopher Glastonbury | 35m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Thu 18th Oct 2018 | |||
3rd shot.... a surprise Send as I power-screamed my way up the route. As the guide says: punchy boulder problems separated by good rests. Varied climbing with some long tough sections giving it a sustained vibe despite the rests. Great rock and a cool position. Deserves more traffic. The traverse start is quite gripping.
|
|||||||||
2446
points
| 26 | ★★★ Turn Your Eyes Insane — 2 attempts - with Simmo, Stephen Varney | 16m | Nowra | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | |||
2 attempts. Super rad.
Unfortunately, I couldn't touch the initial boulder move (never stuck it once) but linking from the 2nd bolt to the top was no real trouble. Great little sustained number, with lots of body tension trickery on some proper slopers. A joy to climb. |
|||||||||
2444
points
| 22 | ★★ No Antidote | 15m | Hillwood (private land) | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Mar 2024 | |||
I fell off the start boulder a couple of times till I found the holds. A very cool finale.
|
|||||||||
2444
points
| 22 | ★★★ The Long Kiss Goodnight | 25m, 12 | Hillwood (private land) | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Mar 2024 | |||
Clean repeat. Wow, I forgot what a wild showstopper the finale (through the roof direct) is. Earns the grade for this one sequence, but its a good one.
|
|||||||||
2443
points
| 24 | ★★ Ratcat - with Heath Black | 14m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Jan 2020 | |||
Clean repeat, this time placing draws. Kinda cruised this today, despite sub-optimal conditions. Possibly one of the best routes at the Glen, and much more sustained than its cruxy neighbours. The finale felt easy today.
|
|||||||||
2443
points
| 7b+ | ★★★ Mind Boggle | 30m, 16 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Oct 2018 | |||
2nd shot. A bit of an everything climb, with a jump, a hard slab, some hard techo tufas, and sustained steep tufas. A great line and totally my style. Loved it.
|
|||||||||
2442
points
| 24 | ★★★ Pluck-a-Duck - with Heath Black | 22m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Mar 2021 | |||
Clean repeat. My favourite route on this wall. Pretty good rock (for bell) the whole way, and varied climbing from start to finish. That low crux is hard when wet!
|
|||||||||
2441
points
| 7b+ | ★★★ The Craic | 36m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Oct 2018 | |||
Went quite easily today in good conditions. A great route with two awesome lower crux sequences, but probably not hard for the grade.
|
|||||||||
2439
points
| 25 | ★★ Stolen Inspiration! - with Lucas C, Magdalena de la Torre | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Nov 2019 | |||
2nd shot. Aside from some dubious rock, the climbing on this is bloody awesome. I suspect this is almost a 26 by now (with breakage), as I had to pull out all the guns and some funky trickery for the send. Regardless of grade, it's absolutely brilliant. Not a drop of chalk on it from start to finish, though?
|
|||||||||
2439
points
| 22 | ★★ Cornerstone - with Viona Young | 18m | New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Dec 2020 | |||
Great! Quite sustained through the orange-arete section (with a surprisingly tricky crux), then a pleasant slab to the finish.
|
|||||||||
2438
points
| 23 | ★★ Early Bird - with Stephen Varney | 15m, 6 | The Woolwash | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Sep 2022 | |||
Clean repeat. Been a long time since I've been on this one, and I was pretty happy just to punch it straight out, given the rather bouldery start (post hold-breakage). Quite good!
|
|||||||||
2438
points
| 25 | ★★ Sliver - with Emil Mandyczewsky, Heath Black, Ben Jenga | 25m, 13 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Nov 2019 | |||
Was hoping to dispatch this quickly today... it still felt bloody hard even on the Send. Hard 25 or maybe even 26 by my reckoning. Despite being a line of "features", I'm never really able to use my footwork to "rest" in the upper half, making it really pumpy to the anchor. Bloody awesome though.
|
|||||||||
2438
points
| 24 | ★★★ Brain Drain - with Stephen Varney | 20m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Feb 2021 | |||
Repeat. Warmup
|
|||||||||
2436
points
| 28 | ★★★ Bad Dog, Bad Dog, No Biscuit - with Stephen Varney | 22m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Feb 2021 | |||
3 more laps. Still lots of work to do, but good linkage happening now. Looking forward to cooler (and less wet) conditions.
|
|||||||||
2436
points
| 24 | ★★★ Brain Drain - with Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 20m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | |||
Repeat. Warmup
|
|||||||||
2436
points
| 23 | ★★★ Subliminated | 110m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Apr 2023 | |||
Repeat. Clean TRS lap for fitness. Probably prouder than the original Subliminal, but shares too much of the same climbing to usurp its classic status.
|
|||||||||
2436
points
| 23 | ★★★ The House of Meat | 40m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Apr 2023 | |||
Clean Repeat. TRS. This was probably the best of the routes I did here today. I found the two cruxes on this kinda hard -though it might just be post-covid fatigue.
|
|||||||||
2434
points
| 28 | ★★★ Bad Dog, Bad Dog, No Biscuit - with Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 22m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | |||
3 x Laps. Making progress, sorting sequences, working on efficiency. Had an exciting experience on the 3rd lap when a biner exploded (becoming cross-loaded) through a runout at the top, resulting in an 18m fall.
|
|||||||||
2434
points
| 28 | ★★★ No Space in Time | 20m, 7 | Bare Rock | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Jun 2016 | |||
Finally! 2nd shot today (in the dark... any darker and it would be unclimbable without a headlamp). PSYCHED! 25th Redpoint Shot total (with 8 other laps to equip/inspect/warmup over the duration). What an epic journey for the tick: struggling with conditions (it was all down to 1 hour of good conditions each day as the sun went down, during which I attacked this), a severe knee injury, 50 other Projects, and the tough approach to the Boneyard (40min walk up a hill + 12m Jumaar + Ledge Life). When it went, it was still a good fight as I struggled to see in the dark. By the end I was only using 3 pieces of trad gear in the crack, and running it out the whole way.
|
|||||||||
2434
points
| 24 | ★★★ Brain Drain - with Tom Collins | 20m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Feb 2021 | |||
Clean Repeat.
|
|||||||||
2433
points
| 25 | ★★★ Microdermabrasia | 85m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Nov 2015 | |||
Pitch 3 (24) only. An exciting onsight with no chalk on anything. Mostly this pitch is sustained thin pumping at hard 22. However, this climb harbours a seriously tricky crux featuring a desperately long reach off a 1/4 mono-crimp. The finish up the steep, groovy stemming feature is pretty cool when hanging out at the top of the majestic Bentrovato wall.
|
|||||||||
2432
points
| 25 | ★★ Bum Arete | 22m, 12 | New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Aug 2016 | |||
Onsight but for the pre-placed draws (and knowing the opening section from Bullen's Route). Not as classic as its righthand neighbour, but still fun, and with a pretty funky upper crux (which I only just latched with one finger on the throw).
|
|||||||||
2432
points
| 28 | ★★★ God's Gift to Wart Hogs - with Tom Collins | 24m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Feb 2021 | |||
Project shopping. Exciting with no chalk on it! More sustained than I expected. I liked the moves, but I thought the bolting in two sections make this too frustrating to work, especially in sopping wet (read: slippery) conditions. Probably not for me.
|
|||||||||
2432
points
| 28 | ★★★ Bad Dog, Bad Dog, No Biscuit - with Tom Collins | 22m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Feb 2021 | |||
Project found! Draws up for the foreseeable future. Pretty stacked, but the moves are varied and rad. I haven't been this psyched on a conventional sport climb in ages!
|
|||||||||
2432
points
| 23 | ★★ Fascinator (Facinator) - with Heath Black, Wade Stewart | 25m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Sep 2018 | |||
Pumpy. A strange line (but of course Monty would find a girdle to bolt), but thoroughly enjoyable. I thought the hardest moves were the first ones into the traverse, with the rest seeming quite a bit easier. The rock is bullet-hard.
|
|||||||||
2432
points
| 23 | ★★ Swallow the Fly - with Wade Stewart, Heath Black | 20m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Sep 2018 | |||
Bwah! With no chalk on the headwall, it became quite the desperate battle. Great rock and climbing in the 2nd half up the varied flake features. The lower half a bit grovelly and stop-start, but inoffensive and doesn't detract.
|
|||||||||
2431
points
| 25 | ★★★ Automobiles as Personality and Ego Substitutes - with Heath Black | 19m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Oct 2019 | |||
2nd shot. Didn't seem too hard at the grade, but with no chalk on the crux holds, I didn't quite find the best part on the onsight attempt. I really rate the moves, but wasn't that inspired by the rock quality. Still a great climb, though.
|
|||||||||
2428
points
| 23 M1 23 M1 | ★ Maxbond - with Match | 45m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 31st Jul 2022 | |||
2nd shot -I found it hard to figure out the line/bolting on the onsight attempt. Could be "very good" with a bit of TLC. The actual moves are pretty cool (and kinda novelty) though it's rather unloved, and the aid move is quite weird. The lower-crux is a pretty wild bit of technical climbing, and the final traverse left to gain the P1 anchor is gripping!
|
|||||||||
2427
points
| 26 | ★★ Intaglio | 30m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Aug 2018 | |||
Finally! Became a bit of a sail-away style epic as I fell off the last move of the crux far too many times. Great climbing, and worthy of standing beside the other classic face routes on this wall. Should definitely get more traffic.
|
|||||||||
2426
points
| 25 | ★★ Dark Side of a Loon - with Tom Collins | 85m | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Sep 2019 | |||
Good to clean-up this old dog with no major issues today. An inconsequential start leads to improbably steep roof-climbing which is surprisingly easy (despite appearances), and a punchy headwall on beautiful rock. I can't wait to try the upper pitches.
|
|||||||||
2426
points
| 23 | ★★★ Legoland - with Heath Black | 25m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | |||
Clean repeat. Even running with water, this thing is bloody brilliant. So many cool features.
|
|||||||||
2425
points
| 27 | ★★ Chalk Chops - with Will Vidler, Luke Yerbury, Matt King, Michael Moore, Nathan Kenny | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Mar 2022 | |||
Just the one sussing lap. Much better than I expected, and quite sustained in the first half, with 3 distinct and varied cruxes. I imagine this is nails if you're short!
I found the final face crux (before the dawdly headwall) quite hard, but the other sections very manageable. I'll definitely come back to this. |
|||||||||
2425
points
| 27 | FA ★★★ Caveat Emptor Extension | 35m, 18 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2017 | |||
Finally! The Old Man comes out to belay, and scores another belay tick! 2nd shot today, 15th shot total (the most shots it's taken me to tick anything under gr28). Had a good first burn, but slipped off the finishing jug. The 2nd shot it was so cold I struggled in the lower section, but didn't stop to chalk once in the upper bit, and that got me through it. I love the climbing on this route (and the headwall is the money!) but I accept that the section to the lower anchor isn't so good, and the rock below the headwall is generally of a lower quality.
As to the grade... I'm not sure. I'm giving it 27 based on how long it took to tick, the specific training I did for this route, and the effort I've had to put in to tick it... BUT, I can accept that this sort of steep power-endurance (13 fingery moves at the crux, coming after 30m of climbing) isn't my forte, and I reckon certain individuals (JengA) have every chance of doing this very rapidly and downgrading it. I'm 100 percent open to opinions on the grade. |
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2425
points
| 23 | ★ Static Discharge - with Stephen Varney | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th May 2021 | |||
Clean repeat. Very traddy steepish stemming, with a short crux that seems hard on the "onsight" but is actually pretty easy at the grade.
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2422
points
| 23 | ★★★ The Mind Boggles - with Will Vidler | 40m, 18 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 13th Jul 2022 | |||
Clean Repeat. Just the first ~30m (to the lower anchors) as a warmup. Even better than I remember! Damn, this has to be one of the best 3 23's in the Blueys! You know its good, when it's so cold I can't feel my fingers, but I'm still frothing the climb!
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2422
points
| 24 | ★★ Ratcat | 14m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Jan 2021 | |||
Repeat. Fun, tenuous slabbing, to a final death-by-crimp finale. One of my favourite routes here
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2422
points
| 5.11c | ★★ Mid-Life Crisis - with Will Vidler | 12m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Dec 2019 | |||
Mostly cruisy (but weird) crimping with a single hard pull on a small hold. Okay, I guess.
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2421
points
| 23 | ★★ Reigning Steel - with Simmo | 17m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Jul 2022 | |||
Clean repeat. Great warmup as always. OMG, the conditions were amazing!
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2421
points
| 24 | ★★★ Vigilante | 35m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Jan 2021 | |||
Number 3 of 4 of the crag classics. A hard start (seems to have gotten easier from when I first did it) and then just oodles of classy face climbing up impeccable rock, to a wild and committing finish. I absolutely love this route.
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2420
points
| 25 | ★★ Horse Meat Disco - with Heath Black, Aaron Jones, Dave Hoyle | 55m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Sep 2019 | |||
Came back to properly tick the last route of this trilogy of classics. Almost managed it as a warmup, but stalled out on some slab moves up high. No problems second shot. Long, sustained thin-ness, on generally great rock. Probably tough at the grade.
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2420
points
| 22 | ★★ Street Legal - with Heath Black | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Feb 2020 | |||
Bloody awesome, but rather hard at its original grade. A funky, techo, insecure arete that climbs a million times better than it looks from the ground.
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2420
points
| 24 | ★ The Amateur | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Wed 25th Oct 2017 | |||
Perhaps not very hard for the grade, and certainly contrived... but fun as an end-of-day sunset lap, and it covers some pretty funky terrain on improbably good finger-jugs.
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2419
points
| 23 | ★★ Pocket Rock It | 32m, 14 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Aug 2018 | |||
Quite challenging without any chalk on it. A few particularly cruxy moves, and lots of easier climbing. Very worthwhile. Mostly pretty good rock.
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2419
points
| 24 | ★★ Upchuck - with Viona Young | 20m | New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Dec 2020 | |||
2nd shot. A very thin, very bouldery crux surrounded by otherwise fairly moderate climbing.
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2418
points
| 26 | ★★★ Wizball | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 18th Jul 2018 | |||
Short and intense from the get-go. Amazing rock and climbing, marred solely by being briefly contrived to earn the grade. Complex and powerful for a face climb. Definitely recommended.
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2417
points
| 23 | ★★★ It Began In Afrika - with Viona Young, Stephen Varney | 12m, 7 | South Pacific | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jun 2022 | |||
For some reason I decided the obvious hold out left at the top was off-route (on the line next to this), and ignored it. Since when did I contrive climbing? 2nd shot. A really great route with a lot of climbing despite being short. The top boulder is rad!
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2417
points
| 26 | ★★★ Archon | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Jul 2018 | |||
An amazing long technical face in classic "cosmic country" style, with all the hardest moves coming at the very top (though the first half is no slouch either). Skipping the crux draw was key to my Send, and on my penultimate lap I fell off at about the highest point I could, and took one of the biggest lead falls I've ever had. Gripping!
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2417
points
| 24 | ★★★ Brain Drain - with James vilimaa, Jared Anderson | 20m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Dec 2020 | |||
Clean repeat x 2 - In such hideous conditions, any climbing is a blessing, even if it's just lapping the classics. Such a cool line of features. Visionary, even.
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2415
points
| 25 |
★★★ Neon God
1
22
25m
2
25
25m
| 50m | Mount Wellington | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th May 2022 | |||
TRS Clean both pitches. Good to get back on this years after I last did it, and repeat it without too much difficulty even sans chalk. P2 is quite sustained and continuous in its two halves, with very rad moves up an incipient series of seams. I enjoyed this way more today than I did last time.
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2414
points
| 25 | ★★ Yank Me and Crank Me | 22m | North Sister | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jun 2016 | |||
The climbing is awesome, sustained and intense... the rock quality is average (though I didnt break off anything). Straightforward moves, just intense and without any reprieve to chill and breathe. Happy with the flash. Steep crimping with big moves and tricky footers.
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2412
points
| 25 | ★★ Mad Hatter - with hugh sutherland | 17m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Aug 2019 | |||
Along with Fedora, this is the crag classic. Quite sustained, technical, pumpy and powerful. I had a rather gnarly sequence through the crux that was quite demanding, though I could have fallen off many of the moves above it. Definitely worth your time.
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2412
points
| 23 22 | ★★ Llewd Dude - with Heath Black, Ben Jenga | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Jan 2020 | |||
Great, relatively easy climbing, with a nails -but awesome- gritstone style crux. Was pretty psyched to put this together in the summer sun as a warmup, despite it being utterly unloved.
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2411
points
| 22 | ★★★ Ricardo Lagos - with Heath Black, Stephen Varney | 20m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 3rd Jan 2020 | |||
Brilliant. Other than the annoying access pitch, this is beautiful climbing at the grade on a variety of rock-types and styles. Climbed as a giant pitch from the ground with no rope drag.
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2411
points
| 24 | ★★★ Sanction of the Victim Extension - with Martin Cankov, Ludek Sykora | 35m, 19 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 29th Nov 2020 | |||
Another clean repeat. Again attempting the headwall downclimb (only got halfway down this time). Good steep training.
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2411
points
| 23 22 | ★★ I've Got 3 Buttocks - with Heath Black | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Jan 2020 | |||
Might even be classic if the move at the 3rd bolt (and in particular the nightmare clip) weren't so hideous, and it was a bit less ledgy. The upper half is brilliant climbing on tasty rock with some spicy runouts, and a techo slabby finale.
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2411
points
| 23 22 | ★★ Praise the Llewd - with Heath Black | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Jan 2020 | |||
A climb of many parts. A funky layback start, some gripping arete climbing, and a techo (and surprisingly hard-to-read) face finale. I didn't bring enough draws so had the "pleasure" of skipping 2 bolts in the upper section. Only marred by the retro'd crack start, and the rather dubious rock on the face.
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2410
points
| 25 | ★★★ Raving Bull - with Heath Black | 67m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Aug 2019 | |||
As good as I remember, but quite tough at the grade and very sustained. The first lap was a bit humbling (in the 2nd half), but I managed to squeak through on the second lap. Unrelenting technical thinness wandering up the only line of least resistance on this part of the wall. Be sure to brush (and practice) the top slab at the end of P1... in my arrogance I didn't, and only just managed to keep it together.
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2409
points
| 24 |
★★ Substance Abuse
- with
Christopher Glastonbury
1
22
45m
2
24
45m
| 90m | Mount Buffalo | ★ Good | Sun 29th Dec 2019 | |||
Accidentally got on this instead of Edge of Pleasure. Didn't take long to realise our mistake. Heinously hard friction slabbing on untrafficked, somewhat mossy, somewhat snappy rock. Getting up this clean is about as hard as I can climb in the style.
The stupid screw-in sheathed caving bolts on the lower pitch unscrew themselves due to the fixed hangers (one only had about 3 turns of thread left from falling out). I didn't particularly enjoy having to hand-screw in the bolts (not the nuts, the bloody BOLTS) on lead. |
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2408
points
| 26 | FA ★★★ Terra Nullius Extension | 35m, 19 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th Apr 2017 | |||
Outrageously rad! Send 2nd redpoint shot, but 4th lap total. Everything about this extension is nutty: turning the roof, punching off the top of the flake, trucking out to the arete, sucking it up and committing to the thin moves, and topping out the juggy steepness. So very, very overhanging, and so very, very exposed. Yeah... I'm psyched about this one. Originally grade "hard 25", consensus seems to be bumping this up to 26.
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2407
points
| 25 | ★★★ Air Malta - with Tom Collins | 220m, 18 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Jul 2019 | |||
Came back for the crux pitch. A proper mega-classic pitch in its own right, and I was psyched to dispatch this without any difficulties today (as I remember it being quite gnarly). Awesome steep jugging, with a truly radical finale pocket-and-driveby sequence with oodles of air below you.
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2407
points
| 25 ~26 | ★★★ Highdrogen Flare - with Heath Black | 37m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | |||
Amazing, sustained, technical face climbing, and bloody hard for the grade! It took me quite a bit to sort the two main cruxes (I had to approach them very differently from the FA), and I took a huge whip from the very top going for a big link attempt. Beautiful rock, wild position, unique movement.
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2406
points
| 24 | ★★★ Sanction of the Victim Extension - with Tom Collins | 35m, 19 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 14th Nov 2020 | |||
Clean repeat. Managed to lead down-climb almost the entire extension as well. Stupidly steep jugging forever. Downclimb the headwall to score 30-odd metres of 30 degree overhang!
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2406
points
| 27 | ★★★ Intergalactic Holistic Space Traveller - with Will Vidler, Match, Luke Hef | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | |||
Just the one shot. Really struggled with the mantle crux on this today -a move that hasn't given me too much trouble in past. Not sure what is going on with me
Anyway, it's a rad route regardless. Technical face climbing, and surprisingly pumpy. |