Routes in World for selected grade

Was once the hardest 17 in the known universe.

They come from far and wide to feel the pockets, stroke the slopers, and clip the chains. Now it is your turn to join the masses and see why Silver Hands is number one in the world.

Beaut sustained climbing.

Start: Directly below the cave, on the left side of the obvious crack. Up the wall past delicate slab move to a big rest in the cave. Take a breath and head out the right side up the vertical wall on magic holds.

Super popular. Start behind the right of the two gums. Up to lower-off at break. As per usual, please do not top-rope directly through anchors.

Marked LT. 2.5m R of Dr Do Little. Thin start, then through some overlaps. Best route on the wall.

Fantastic climbing on gorgeous peachy rock, many climbers' favourite 19 at Araps. Chains at top (32m). Videos

3m R, incorporating a corner feature and some cruxy bits down low.

A good way to ease into this little wall.

A contender for the best 19 in the country! The old school off-width is the only way to go for apprentice gruntologists. All the sane people start in the corner to the R. Up this past a tricky move out of a cave at 1/3 height to a stance (crux). From here, up the beautifully sculpted line to the top. Simply magnificent climbing. Rapping on a 70m rope will get you to the middle of the scramble at the base of the climb.

Start 2m L of 'Adam's Rib', 1m R of 'Gobble'.

Nice. Climb up clipping 2 RBs, then 2 FHs, then 1 more RB, then the anchor shared with 'Gobble'. Crux is mantling the bulge at the 3rd bolt.

Some people find it that way! 3m R. FH's.

Start at the rather redundant DRB which are 1.5m off the ground. Good climbing with loads of very shiny ringbolts. Exciting finale.

Rings to double ring lower off.

Traverse rightwards into the base of the obvious rock ladder. A bit of trickery makes it easier. Stick clip first ring makes it better on the nerves. New anchor out left adds another 4 moves and restores some of the original climbing. Start: 4m right of Cenotaph Corner.

A great wet weather protected slab climb! The right most bolted line on the wall. Start either via first few metres of the trad corner Constipation Chimney VS or boulder the start direct (grade 21?). A couple of clips are tricky if you are short. The bolts were a birthday gift from Vanessa and Ryan.

Up the overhanging arete on jugs and slopers. Perhaps the best V1 of the Frontline!

Start: Sit

The left side of the main arete on the mini wall.

Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets, a sling and prussics for whoever is seconding. All carrots have small heads, so maybe clip the first ones with fat old biners, or add a wire so the brackets don't tinkle off.

Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dreams, or about 100m after the cable traverse.

1. 25m (19) Tough move through first rooflet then head right around arête and diagonally up face to ledge and 2 Ubolt belay on right.

2. 25m (18) 2 Ubolts then stainless glued carrots from now on. Traverse left and out to arête. Up this to first cave and DBB hidden around to the left.

3. 25m (19) The money pitch. Exposed! Up right easily to second cave then up and out left to overhung arête, up to semi hanging belay on small ledge and 3BB.

4. 35m (19) Up arête past two BRs to cave and double U bolts. You can belay here or clip a U with a long sling and step right, up wall and roof, then diagonally R to 2U belay.

5. 35m (16) Right and up on ironstone plates over roof past Ubolts on left, then diagonally R to top and tree belay well back.

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at Arapiles. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch. Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle. Rap anchor at the top.

Heel hook start, quite sustained for the grade. Four UBs to chains.

Carrot bolts! Starts at the left of the two white gums.

Just to the right of the tree growing against the cliff. Rebolted 2017.

Shared start with JJ then left. Rebolted 2017.

Start as for 'Dysentery'[12213427], marked "D".

At the 4th RB on 'Dysentery'[12213427] veer R then up over roof, clipping 2 further RBs. Up slab above to DBB.

Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'.

Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor.

Lower off after slab

1.5m right of Jack High. Up slab (techy start!) to anchors on ledge.

Start 5m L of 'Southern Cross'. Marked "WH".

A difficult move to clip the 2nd bolt. A hold may have come off since the original grading of 18? Regardless, holds are there and just need to be found. Goes well once you know the sequence. Rebolted 2014.

Reachy crux. FH to start then trend left (RBs) to rope killing lower-off.

Start at arete 1m R of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

Fine and balancy slab climbing that tests the head as much as the feet. A great climb at the grade, but with some potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid. 5 RBs & DBB.

Best route on the pillar - sustained. Start 2m to the R of & 2m down from 'Afternoon Delight'. Stickclip high first bolt from ledge on the left but start the climb down right. 3 shiny new RBs to lower-offs. Retrobolted (with permission) 2015. Take care clipping the 2nd bolt, as there has been at least one ground fall.

Six U-bolts to lower-off. Directly right of black wall. Overhanging on good holds.

Has steadily increased it's reputation over the years, and is now considered by some to be one of the best 19s at Arapiles. Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the Piccolo side. Approach by going L around the back of D Minor Pinnacle. The logs and chain in the gully are for erosion control; they are not designed or to be used as belay anchors.

Start at the "A" mark just below the drill hole.

First bolt is very high. Slinging the drill hole offers some protection but still take care not to fall while clipping. 4 RBs & DBB.

Multi-pitch sport climb. ~100m. Grades 19,19,17,14. All protection is ring or U bolts, no carrots. Faces south west - so shade until early afternoon.

Access path is 60m SOUTH of Cahill's Lookout on Cliff Drive, Katoomba. (access path: http://goo.gl/maps/1TsvL)

Take at least 14 draws. Be prepared for hanging belays, take lots of locking ‘biners. Twin or double ropes recommended for long abseils and sharp rope-cutting ironstone which is abundant on this route. There is plenty of loose rock on this route - be careful to stick to the line and not stray into the chossville around it. Helmets highly recommenced and be very careful if there are multiple parties on the route at the same time.

Alternate Access if the abseils are swarming with guided groups-either walk down Devil's Hole (pretty but hard to find the start) or rap down off 2 Ubolts 3m west (R facing out) of normal rap anchor (straight down pitch 4). Then go down the gully for a few meters and walk/traverse out on right wall and eventually find the top of P3 (i.e. reverse the normal route). Leave a long cordlette on the Ubolts to get the screwgate over the edge and rap the route. Either 3 raps or it looks like you can rap P3 (35m) and P2 (25m) in one 60m rap (it's slightly diagonal so the first down should clip one or two bolts) , then P1 (40m)- I haven't tried so take 2 x 60m ropes (or longer) and prusiks.

Orientation: the crag runs more-or-less NORTH-SOUTH. The access path is the EAST side of the cliff, the Megalong Valley below is on the WEST side of the cliff.

Follow access path until you reach 2 chains. This is where you will start and finish.

Rappel ~20m down from chains to the floor of the gully below. (On your way down, scan on your left (if facing rock) for U-bolts which will be protection for the climb out on P4.)

Walk SOUTH, following the rock face on the WEST. Do not take the much steeper, narrow northern path. (On the walk down, try to spot the single U-bolt placed high up on the western face, about half way down the gully hill; you walk past it or could rap from it.)

Follow the track around to the right, traversing at the height of the U-bolt until you have almost done a complete circle. You will pass another U-bolt on the right at about head-height. You will find a very windy chimney/rock split.

You need to pass through the chimney to access 3 rappel chains hidden from view. You can solo this part or setup belay from previous U-bolt. 2 U-bolts in chimney, 1 outside chimney.

Rappel down from 3 chains. You should head WEST when you lower. Try to spot the 2 rappel chains below you and aim for them. You may rappel ~15m to lower 2 rappel chains, or skip those chains and continue ~25m (~40m total) to a single ring-bolt chest-height on SOUTH face of wall.

Rappel ~10m to 2 rappel chains on edge of cliff. (this step can be skipped, but be wary of running out 50m rope)

Rappel ~40m from 2 chains to solid ground.

Following the cliff on your right, head WEST then NORTH along path until you reach U-bolts. This is the start of the ascent. If you reach a nose, or tree with slings around it you have gone too far.

1. 40m (19). Start is difficult and belay is right above huge drop-off so make sure belayer is on safety. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup semi hanging belay.

2. 25m (19). Soft, sandy slopers mostly. Watch for funnel web spiders; they are deadly. Finish at 3 U-bolts at ledge.

3. 35m (17). Really easy but be careful of sharp ironstone, it can sever rope. Finish at multiple U-bolts on top ledge.

Walk EAST on the top of the cliff and walk to the left (north) of the first pinnacle, over the sketchy looking ledge. Follow path to the right (south) of the second pinnacle, which is the "Boars Head" rock feature.

Follow the cliff around the southern side of Boars Head and you will find the gully from the first rappel. Stay belayed and keep traversing.

1. 25m (14) Climb back to 2 rappel chains at the start. Climb is located 6m left of the top abseil at start. First bolt can be hard to find, you may need to solo about 2m at the narrowest point of the chimney to find first bolt. Either sneak off right at the top, or direct on left.

Note: this guide does not distinguish between ring bolts and U-bolts. If U-bolt is listed, ring bolt might be present.

Guide by Paul Hauner and Joel Griggs. February 2014.

Has been rebolted (thanks!). However, the non-ideal positions of the bolts were not rectified; extenders recommended. Start off the boulder just R of 'Alpha Leather'.

Tricky steep corner flakes with a great finish.

Start 1m right of 'Point of View' and go straight up.

The first and best route at the crag, borderline 3 stars? Unique for the 'Grampians' - climbs and looks more like limestone. Great sustained climbing on water polished jugs. Surprisingly overhung. Located in the middle of the south face, directly in front of small pine tree. When it gets tough around the 5th bolt dog-leg left to find the better holds. Seeps for several days after heavy rain.

Four pitch, bolted (carrots), slightly runout climb with epic views across the valley. Take 10 brackets. You can finish the route with an extra pitch by doing the confusingly named Mirrorball (21) pitch above Lunch Ledge.

Start: On outer left (NW) arete of the Mirrorball Pinnacle. Look for the line of bolts (carrots, take brackets).

1. 25m (19) Up arete to ledge, with DBB.

2. 30m (18) Up arete and face to chossy cave, left along ledge to high DBB.

3. 20m (17) Up face to big ledge.

4. 45m (18) Up face, to Lunch Ledge, moving right at 2nd ring. Pretty exposed.

Grey slightly overhung gritty wall climbing. This climb is a very good warm-up for harder routes in the area at it is pumpy with no sharp holds. Originally a trad route.

Excellent wall between 'Mezzaluna' and 'High Society'

Classic crack climbing, an excellent example of jamming at Frog. Start at the obvious crack on the far L of Warlock Ledge. A tricky start to get established in the crack (watch out for the loose rock), and then magnificent jamming up the line. Finish at the ledge and rap chains above.

Sustained steep face climbing, one of the better routes on the cliff? Starts about 5m left of "The Riddler". Delicately up the wall, traversing up and left on good break past 3rd bolt to good clipping stance at 4th bolt. Straight up past 5th bolt to rap station.

A strenuous and rewarding test piece jamming problem. Brilliant gear and tricky finger locks see you to a good stance at 2/3 height. Finish easily. Rap off DBB directly above the route.

Up the middle of the yellow and grey face to the right of the gully and 5 metres left of Kedumba Sisters.

Climb left of the flake

The steep and sustained L-facing corner. Great.

Start: 10m left of the large block that leans on the main face.

1. 20m (19) Up slab.

2. 20m (18) Up wall to ledge.

3. 15m (17) Up arete

If you climb with double 50's you can abseil straight off the rings. A 50m rope reaches the ground.

Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs

Start: On rounded arete

M5, R6, M6, R7, L3, R4, M4

Nice, juggy warm up.

Phillip Booth

Sustained crimpy first pitch, delicate second pitch.

Start: Starts at a small pointy boulder 3m left (facing in) of the rap-in.

1. A long series of crimpy moves on a very slightly overhanging face should induce a bit of a pump! There is no decent rest until near the top. 7RB to a 2RB belay/lower-off at the big horizontal. (This pitch may end up being upped a grade. See what you think).

2. Thought provoking climbing with a lot of small fragile ironstone flakes higher up and an exposed top out. 8RB to a 2RB belay in cavelet on top.

Varied climbing with great exposure. Start in the crack, then slightly right on to the arete/slab, all the way up through the chimney. Take lots of draws, consider stick-clipping the first.

Start at drillhole 2m L of 'Tuesday Afternoon Walk'.

Hard boulder start up drillhole then straight up past 3 FHs to below overhang. Awkward reach out to 4th FH and lip of overhang. Mantle onto ledge with DBB.

Start 1m R of 'BARFJ'. Marked "MF".

One of the few good natural lines at 'KP'. It is a shame that the upper layback crack was halved when the council decided to renovate in the mid 1990s by dynamiting it off! Neil Monteith added the new bolted finish when the dust settled.

Up pockets to small roof, then up layback crack on L to halfway ledge. Straight up past RB to crack. Either top out or use BARFJ anchors just L.

Very nice! Step in from the left, and boulder R to the jug. From here, climb the beautiful line and finger crack to a stance below a corner. This corner provides beautiful positions and stances, and finishes up an easier crack to the top.

A superb rising traverse with some very balancy moves which also gives the seconder a good mental workout.

Shares the start and most of pitch one, with 'Lamplighter'.

1. 27m (10) Follow the ramp of "Lamplighter" until it runs out. Up to ledge.

2. 25m (18) Step up right and onto right wall. Mantleshelf then traverse right past a bolt into "Kingdom Come", then up to belay on small ledge.

3. 15m (19) Traverse right, and up the diagonal crack to ledge. It is possible to move up from the traverse to the bolt on "Give me Convenience..." at about the same grade but it adds nothing to the route.

Rap back to ground from DRRB at top of P3.

Start: Left-most route on the main, orange face.

Head up right side of block on left then through weakness in overlap

Start as for Murmel Snooze at initials. Straight up through the overlap then drift left to stay out of Mezzaluna. Mostly carrots, take brackets.

Right to left rising traverse just right of Ted Turd-Rossa and finishes at that routes anchors.

Climb line of ringbolts immediately right of Constructive Vandalism. Thought provoking moves halfway up will result in glory or failure. 5BR & DBB. A great climb to warm up on. It was graded 20 but is much easier than Shaved Cat....

Nice moves with good little crux. 3RB to anchors.

Classic sustained slabby wall with some wonderful flake features. Takes some gear at the bottom (finger-sized nut or two and perhaps a #1 camalot). 7 bolt plates required for the top.

Rebolted 2006 with SSGIC's. A 60m rope is just ok to lower off but tie a knot in the end to be sure.

Clip first bolt and trend L then follow crack features to anchor. Four UBs to DUBB. Stays to the L of the UBs, with "Right Of Passage" staying to the R (hence the name).

Boulder problem starting off to the right of the 1st bolt then nice scoop above. Rebolted 2019

Hard undercut start then a long wall with a runout upper half. Probably not a good one if 19 is your limit.

Nice long run. All titanium bolts. 1st pitch of Burning down the House.

Start 2m L of 'Halva'. Faintly marked "SOS".

Nondescript bottom section with fun, airy finish. 5 RBs to DBB.

The original start to HF offers 95% independent climbing. Start as for Hot Flyer for 2m then left and up wall and flake to chain lower-off in halfway break. Does not share any bolts with HF.

Shares the start with 'Big Shit', then veers right about halfway up. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Confusion.

Hidden Gem

Start on pocket and then go up left and top out around ramp.

A new addition that weaves its way around the massive flake feature at half height. Enjoy.

Pull through overhanging corner to bomber locks in corner crack and continue up ramp to pedestal and juggy wall on left.

Start: Start just right of 'Tarzan'.

Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on left side of tall wall. Most people go right into Brown Hornet for a move, then back left to 2nd bolt. Cruxy thin moves for three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then right and up to lower-off anchor.

Great dogleg crack up smooth wall at the left end of the cliff.

Tricky start, eases as you go. From a sit start on the finger jug, climb up the juggy wall.

The short arete at the right side of the main crag

Hard start. Move up through a few bulges on good holds. Hard finish. Careful clipping the anchors. Originally graded 17...

A fine balancy slab which is harder for the vertically challenged. Start 1m R of Diagonal Crack.

The thin crack. After the crack eases the easiest finish is on the L, but pulling direct over the little overlap and up the short wall above is better.

Climb the obvious tower 40m left across the talus field from the “Freeloader” arete. Straight up the middle of the face to an exposed finale on the free standing tower. Can gain the top of the tower for a great seat and view.

Start at the arete 2m R of the 'Love Hurts' corner. Marked "NUT", although the actual start is about 1m R of the mark.

Nice climbing with a fun crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts which is tricky for the grade. 6 (well-camouflaged) RBs & DBB. Was originally led with just two bolts and trad. Retro-bolted with permission.

Classic crack climbing. Start at the finger crack as it continues to widen the whole way up the route. Don't be fooled by the wide nature of the top, although big gear is essential to protect this route (#4 and #5 BD cams won't go astray), you are able to bridge past almost all of the wide thrashing! A 70m rope will get you back to the ground from the chain around the tree.

Left of the big crack, on positive edges and pockets. High; bolts on top.

5 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Nice climbing with some big reaches Shared Lower Off with Sparky.

Start as for 'Dysentery'.

A slight variant to "Dysentery" which makes it a bit harder and more runout. After the 3rd RB head straight up the steeper, overhanging part of the headwall, skipping the usual 4th RB, then rejoin the original line at its 5th RB. Best done on top rope.

Start 1m right of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend right for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S.

Start three metres left of Don't Worry.com at the arete. Follow bolts through sea of sculpted holds heading for ring bolted anchor in roof. Stay left at crux. A great new warmup for this sector.

Follow the flake through the rooflet. Cave is out. Watch the topout

Starts 2m right of flake.Climb straight up right of bolts.Nice face climbing.