Routes in World for selected grade

Situated 10m downstream of COMANICI a direct clean route is available, avoiding grade 5 vegetated rock on the left and, higher up, on the right.

1. 44m 7 Climb straight up face (or on corner) for full rope length.

2. 8m 7 Scramble out straight up (5) or more enjoyably, walk 20m right behind a stubby pinnacle and climb short chimney.

Note: The climb provides a pleasant beginners route on clean rock with reasonable exposure for the grade of climbing. Spectacular views of the A2 section of COMANICI can be obtained from the final pitch, so take your camera.

The climb is on the left side of the kloof upstream from PINNACLE CHIMNEY on the corner formed by the descent gully and starts at an old well-constructed fireplace.

1. 16m 7 Climb the face bearing right to an upright sharp--edged rock. Go round this to the right then traverse left over the top and up to a 10m wide grassy ledge.

2. 17m 7 Climb up the face and later to the right of the buttress which gives way to large blocks and ledges finishing up on a squat block-like pinnacle to the right of a wide shelf separating it from the main buttress.

Commence 25m downstream from SLOB-A-GOB and 6m left of THURSDAY SPECIAL on broken rock with a slight recess.

1. 30m 7 Ascend the recess for 15m to a grassy slope. Traverse right, then continue up the line of least resistance to the shady tree mentioned in the second pitch of THURSDAY SPECIAL.

2. 14m 7 Climb from the tree in the corner up to the overhang. Move left and around the corner. Follow the ridge to the top.

Climb in the recess at the left of the black-streaked rock at water level. This recess contains the start of TOP GEAR and KLEINBOOI. Start in the extreme left-hand corner. [A – 17]

1. 30m 7 Climb the easy rock to the left of an overhang at 15m. Then continue to the left of the overhang to a large tree. Move up to a small overhang with a root under it. Rail right on to the arête and then to the top.

Commences about 15m downstream of RAF CHINK below a prominent cave.

1. 9m 7 Start over stream and proceed up to cave.

2. 18m 7 Continue up right-hand side of cave in corner. A grade 13 variation starts to the left of cave and traverses over roof of cave.

3. 15m 7 Chimney immediately above second pitch.

From the normal gathering point at the bottom of GROOTKLOOF GULLY walk up the gully for 3m. Traverse left and then diagonally upwards about 9m (still walking). The climb starts at the bottom of a low open book recess. There is a small cubbyhole at the bottom of this recess (a larger overhanging recess is to the left).

1. 15m 7 Climb the open book about 4m and move right and upwards around a steep section onto an easy ridge of large steps and trees to stance below next face.

2. 12m 5 Ascend grey rock, bearing right to avoid steep red face, onto sloping grass ledge 9m wide.

3. 14m 7 Climb 3m in a corner, then traverse left over the top of a square block to a corner about 2,5m away. Ascend the recess, where there is one harder move, and continue up and slightly right to a small platform with a tree as belay.

4. 8m 7 Move to the left into a gully and climb up the side under the tree, traversing to the right over stance at end of previous pitch, continue up through a break, move to right under steep rocks and cross over top of chimney to finish of climb at a point where a small gully gives a walking route to the top of the kloof.

This gully affords a convenient abseil route into the kloof for CLARION and other climbs in the vicinity.

This climb follows a gully recess 15m up from the STRAIGHT EDGE corner. After ascending the gully for 18m, bear generally right to end at the same point as VARIETY. It is also possible but more difficult to move out left higher up, along a traverse on the left hand wall.

Start higher up the kloof, as for start of PINNACLE NORTH.

1. 25m 7 After scrambling up from the riverbed 10m move right past start of ROUGH ROCK RECESS, which climb is in recess, and climb grey rock to a good tree and up again to big nettle tree, 10m.

2. 20m 7 Traverse to right and climb easy gully, then scramble to large tree set in a corner far back from stream.

3. 30m 7 Climb up for 4m and then move left 3m and climb round big rock blocks and up recess to big stance behind nettle tree.

4. 25m 7 Move to crack as far left as possible and climb easy crack to top.

Above the lower pool a boulder blocks the kloof. This provides a means of escape to the left when going down the kloof by a climb of 18m on roots and ridge.

This is a route starting about 10m below Middle Gully Right and sloping back at an easy angle except for the final 6m.

Commence in Great Gully at its junction with the main kloof.

1. 12m 7 Climb recess behind a 35cm wide smooth blackish tree. Bear slightly left to large sloping ledge.

2. 10m 5 Traverse left and ascend a bush covered recess to a tree.

3. 12m 7 Climb through recess on right to a triangular patch of grass and a small tree.

Note: Pitches 2 and 3 are seldom climbed and the variation below is the more usual route.

Variation:

2 & 3. 25m 10 Instead of traversing left, climb directly up to small tree in recess. Move right onto nose and up diagonally right into a brown recess. Climb recess past a stamvrug tree. Continue up and left over blocks and step left under nose to triangular patch of grass.

4a 25m 7 Climb crack at back of ledge and move left to enter final chimney to top.

Start at end of long earth ramp which commences about 50m above the junction of Middle Gully, just downstream of an exceptionally large chockstone blocking the kloof.

1. 12m 7 Start at the highest point of the earth ramp and traverse right for 6m past a small nose, then climb recess to a tree.

2. 18m 5 Traverse left along an upward sloping ledge into the bottom of a very narrow chimney behind a large block.

3. 8m 7 Climb chimney.

4. 9m 7 Climb sloping recess.

Variations: 2a. 6m 8 Move up leftwards then back right along a ramp to a block belay. 3a. 22m 15 Traverse up right, round the arete and up a bulging crack. Step left and up a shallow corner crack to the top. 4a. 15m 10 Traverse round a nose on the right and climb a crack in an exposed position.

On the upper band of rock. Climb the pillar of rocks to the left of Sunshine Face.

Start at the large recess/break. After the second bolt climb out right to gain the smooth slab which is followed to lower-offs.

Tagged. Major corner on the left of the Creche. Opened by 'Arielle' on her 9th birthday. Climb to the anchors under the roof.

A direct way to the 3 U-bolt 'Max' anchors. Start up the faint crack 1m left of 'Crouching Tiger' tree. After 4 U-bolts, trend right onto 'Crouching Tiger' crack.

Far right edge of the face with 'Les Trois Meufs'

Juggy face.

Climb the very blunt arete -pretty cool, but high.

Climb the arete.

Sit-start with both hands in scoop. CD to TO.

Sit-start, climb the juggy layback crack, CDR to TO.

The route lies to the right of the amphitheatre on the Central Turret. It follows a prominent rib that merges into the face halfway up and thereafter it ascends the face above. The first pitch commences on the left of the rib. Scramble up 6o feet to the bottom of two recesses.

1. 80 feet 'F inf.': Ascend the left-hand recess and pass through the bush to a broad ledge.

2. 85 feet 'F': A short distance to the left ascend a large block. Traverse to the left along the top of the block and climb up to a stance (piton).

3. 60 feet 'F: Ascend the recess by continuing past a possible line of traverse to the right until a good handrail is reached. Traverse to the right and continue up to a corner and large block.

4. and pitch 5 - 240 feet 'E': Walk round to the Crest of the rib and climbs straight up to a broad ledge below some overhangs.

5. Same as pitch 4.

6. 100 feet 'E inf.': Climbs to a stance visible on the right-hand skyline sonic 60 feet above the ledge (bush). An attempt was made to climb directly above the stance, but was abandoned owing to a dangerously loose block. Presumably this was the route followed by Mamacos and Schaff.

7. 60 feet 'A2': Two recesses will be noticed above. Climb up a few feet and traverse to the base of the left-hand one. Ascend the recess (s pitons) and overcome the bulge (2 pitons left in place) to reach an étrier stance next to another loose block.

8. 120 feet 'F sup.': This pitch is extremely exposed. Traverse to the right for 25 feet into the recess. Climb up the recess to the handrail and then traverse to the right, past the abseil cord, to a small stance. The strata and grips are all sloping the wrong way.

9. 40 feet 'F sup.': A thin, overhanging slit is visible on the skyline above and to the right. Climb up through this slit to a hidden stance.

10. 120 feet of scrambling upwards to the right takes one to a broad ledge. Walk left for about 300 feet to an obvious break.

11. 50 feet 'E': Climb up the recess and exit to the right to a stance below a bush.

12. 120 feet 'F: Continue past the bush and then move left into a gully on rounded grips.

Time for ascent: 8 hours.

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

"Strange route but worth it for the amazing headwall crack above!" Climb the tree to a bolt, get on the wall and climb up to a crack, then diagonally left using edges to a bolt. Aid (A0) through the overhanging crack using 2 bolts and continue climbing the crack when you can place the first piece of gear.

Gear: Slings, small to medium cams, rack of nuts and extra mid-range nuts. Double ropes help reduce rope drag.

Climb up the juggy slab any way you want.

Climb the slabby arête.

This is the obvious easiest line on the boulder. It's juggy all the way up and easily doable for most climbers in flip flops.

On the far left of the slab, behind a tree. Stand-start up the easiest part of the face.

Easiest route up the backside of the boulder. Stand-start with hands on two good holds at 10 and 2 o'clock - straight up.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

Easy route left of 'Nathaniel The Serpent Wrangler.'

'Omu Porkupine' is named after the mammal that terrorized the tent of the first ascensionist for the better part of a night.

Some loose rock and strange channels on the western flank of Monte Leste.

Chaminé larga e agarras; Sem costuras; Grampo de 3/8" para descida do topo

As crianças vão gostar , II , 15m , 2 grampos+1chapa+top

O papai também , II , 15m , 3grampos+top

Variante da Ilusão (II E2 • 25m • Móvel) Pedro Buglm e Maria Fernanda Patric.io em 22/09/2012

Used as a shortcut for the "Costão"[2476002666] track and therefore commonly soloed. Starts at a streak of basalt on the wall. First bolt is at 15m high.

20m right of Cervino. There's another unfinished route in between the two. Starts climbing up to a narrow rock ledge, then left up to the first bolt, about 15m high from the ground. Very easy but run out. 4 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

At 140m on the Claudio Coutinho track you can see the first bolt for this route. Really straight forward. All the way up and then slightly to the left, crossing Bicolor to the DBB at the top.

Very easy and heavily bolted. Access is at around 250m in the Claudio Coutinho track. Up and slightly to the right on second pitch.

Starts a bit higher than Cinza and Bicolor to the left. Up and left after 5th bolt

Via em horizontal à esquerda que liga o mato no final da Golpe do Cartão, com a última enfiada da via Dois Dias de Sol.

Variante da. 'Vogel'

Sem proteções fixas