North Face Tutte Arrampicata trad 20 vie in settore

Excellent adventure. Start 8m right of Hell Fire Gully.

Pitch 1 50m 17: Climb disgonally left, avoiding hanging flake then surmount flake and head to belay below roofs.

Pitch 2 50m 17: Up and right to roof (massive thread) and do glorious moves to gain vertical crack. Avoid gullies on left and belay at Prick'll Traverse.

Pitch 3 50 (19): Trend left into vague corner cracks. Move right, then left over poeg below overhang, to a corner with an overhanging top. Up overhanf and belay diagonally right in ledge in dust corner.

Pitch 4 50m 15: Climb corner above belay, moving onto righthand wall. Up first ramp to reach skyline and belay.

Pitch 5 10m (15) Climb corner to picnic ledge.

Pitch 6 50m (18) From block on ledge, climb diagonally right passing two corner grooves to chossy grove on right. Up the lefte to arete and jugs and belay on left.

Pitch 7 10m Scarmble

Start as Hell Fire Gully for first 5 pitches. At pitch 6, follow the continuation of the gully up, instead of traversing left for HFG. Tips, detailed access and route descriptions here: https://tinyurl.com/yacsaz6d

Up Hell Fire Gully to where HFG traverses left. On pitch 6, take a more direct route to Devils Nose, and for pitch 7, stay out of gully.

Pitches 1-4, as for HFG Pitch 5, as for DN Pitch 6 35m (17): Up and left for 2m to another ledge. 3m left and then back right on a rising diagonal to a bottomless corner 15m above belay. Continue up gully above. Belay in rocky alcove deep inside gully. Pitch 7 30m 17: Exit alcove to the right and climb up two overhangs. Stay out of gullies and vegetation all the way. This is a very juggy and enjoyable pitch. Tips, detailed access and route descriptions here: https://tinyurl.com/yacsaz6d

i) Start 5 m right of grassy gully and go up leaning tower and belay left of large roof (50m) ii) Go up left of gully, past roof and nice climbing in corner. Belay on large ledge (35m). iii) Climb on right side of buttress up exposed face. Well protected. Belay 6 m below roof (30m). iv) Go past protruding spike and climb up and belay 5m below cave (50m). v) Airy traverse into loos chimney before reaching a cave and climbing onto left face and reaching in situ peg. vi) Steep wall and pleasant climbing. Scramble up gully for 20m to reach summit (45m) Tips, detailed access and route descriptions here: https://tinyurl.com/yacsaz6d

A few stats (https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/speed-ascent-bluff-knoll/):

• HFG was climbed 11 times one 24hr period by the same pair in 1993!

• Roped speed record (car park to car park): 2:41:00 - Trent P, Jonas H, 2015

• Solo Speed Record (car park to car park): 1:54:23 - Olly, June 2018

Starts 25m left of Hell Fire Gully. Conditions should be perfect, with an extremely early start (dawn at base of the climb!) before this route is attempted or benightment is very likely. Good luck

A failed attempt to scale the overhangs in the centre of the Face above grey slab. The climb, however, weaves through some impressive country, including the crux of Coercion. Allow 10 hours from car park.

Start up Coercion then a couple of pitches up a face trending right to the Ladies Changroom ledge, through the roof then easy to the top.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/the-great-roof-bluff-knoll/

A serious, but nonetheless an excellent climb for an experienced party. The route was sought out by Adams and Fowler, who made two attempts in 1970 and 1971 and established the start. Adams and Barnes then pushed the route through the 'Grey Slabs'. The climb was finally finished by Adams, Hensen and Lumsdaine in 1972 in "perfect conditions - desirable for all ascents".

This route was an attempt at the 'Great Roofs'. It shares the first two pitches of Coercion, then traverses right across amphitheatre below the 'Great Roofs', crossing the upper pitches of Fiddler on the Roof and Hell Fire Gully. Pitches 3 to 5 are excellent, exposed, and unlikely climbing on good rock.

Extremely good climbing on good rock and good protection, for Bluff Knoll. Go past Hell Fire GUlly until beneath two vertical prows. Scramble up left onto buttress and continue until under more pointed prow.

This directissma on the front face of Sophocles Pillar was bolted with the assent of Peter McKenzie. Full credit must go to Peter for first climbing the pillar as the first 85 metres overhangs by five metres. Peter’s route traverses about the face, dependent upon natural protection. This route goes straight up. Allow 30 minutes to descend the chasm and walk to the start at the end of the bush terrace.

1. 20m 17M3. From the DBB on the blocks at the end of the terrace climb the wall past two BR to the roof. Girdle your loins and blast through the roof crack on etriers and 3-4 pieces of protection (0.5-1.5 friends and medium wires) to gain the wall above. Climb straight up past a BR on the overhanging wall to a BB (with friend backup). The two-metre roof will be freed by a hardman one day.

2. 40m 18. This is an exposed pitch of spectacular and safe climbing, which goes up and slightly right through continuously overhanging head walls with many horizontal breaks. Stay calm. Initially head up the orange wall past three BR, then trend right a few metres past two BR to another orange headwall. Climb the headwall with two FB, then up past another three BR to a DBB on the airy shelf of rock that juts out like a surfboard. Take a photo.

3. 45m 16. Continue straight up using two BR and normal protection to the top.

Some concern over ACZ and retro-bolting Pete and Anthony's route. Seems they were independent lines: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/sport-climbing-comes-to-the-stirlings%e2%80%a6/