Ascensioni in West che possiede Informazioni sui passaggi

mit Direktvariante (7+)

Die teilweise überschwänglichen Bewertungen der Route kann ich nicht ganz nachvollziehen, aber einige nette Seillängen sind schon dabei. Leider sind die jedoch meist viel zu kurz. Kaum kommt man in den Kletterfluss, schon kommt der nächste Standplatz... Die 8er Stelle hat es in sich, das ging bei mir nur A0 - und auch danach bleibt es noch für einige Klettermeter deutlich schwieriger, als im Rest der Route. geniale Abseilfahrt!

Went in a team of 3. First pitch starts with a short but sketchy slab part. Pitch two and three are steeper and need some endurance. After that all pitches were wet and most of the harder parts were unclimbable wet (A0 fun).

Eindeutig die beste Linie an der kopfkraxe. Durchgehend gute und gut gesicherte Kletterei. Die erste Länge scheint länger nass zu sein, geht aber durch die rauen Wasserrillen trotzdem ganz gut.

Schönste Länge ist L7 mit einer abwechslungsreichen Kletterei aus Wand, Platte und Piaz.

Fantastic route with a single, short crux and otherwise brilliant, easy climbing. The approach, however, was horrendously painful due to the snow. None of us had been here before, so we couldn't make out where the path would be and somehow made our way up to the wall through the snow. The first pitch is bolted in a way that allows to avoid the wet crack at the start and is quite easy, so we linked it with the second pitch, which is already the crux (which is also how it is entered here). After a marvellous traverse along a big flake, the line of bolts indicates to go up straight, but I couldn't find a way to climb this for the grade. Maybe I was just too exhausted from the approach already, but after grabbing the draw and pulling myself up, I realized there's a juggy yet chossy flake two meters to the right, which allows you to gain the jugs. After this section, keep left for the belay on the big flake. The next pitch is a glorious traverse on a massive flake, followed by steep, juggy dihedral and wall climbing. Another longish pitch through left-leaning dihedrals gets you directly in the line of the big roof, which is reached via another nice, slabby pitch (or two, depending on the topo). Manoeuvering the weakness in the roof is astonishingly easy (hip flexibility is helpful, nevertheless). It's hard to communicate with your partner from the next belay, so it's best to clarify signals before the runout. The last pitch is a nice chimney/dihedral (my partner got fooled and went to the right into terribly chossy terrain after the chock stone, though, so I had to go there and back to clean the gear). The descent is adventurous to say the least. If there's snow, prepare for some more belaying.

Tolle Tour! 7:30 am Einstieg. 4h Kletterzeit. Sturz nach Griffausbruch am Ausstieg der 2. SL (vermutlich war ich zuweit rechts). 3. SL war bis zum 4. Haken triefend nass!

In der letzten SL an Scheiß zamgeklettert und am 3. Haken nicht mehr aus der Position rausgekommen. Für den Grad vermutlich eher weiter links und nicht direkt. Evtl. auch ein Tritt weggebrochen oder einfach zu unfähig für harte Karwendelplatten, jedenfalls eine fordernde Tour

Abfahrt in Muc 5:15, Parkplatz 7.00, Wangalm 800, Einstieg um 1030.

Ausstieg und Querung auf Westgrat nicht gefunden und nach L9 über Route mit etwas aufwand abgeseilt.

Komplett sanierter Klassiker - erste 7- ziemlich harte und griffarme Verschneidung, sonst vergleichsweise soft bewertet (zweite 7- eher 6). Abwechslungsreich und durchaus empfehlenswert.

Super! Aber keine reine Plaisirroute =) Auf den Seilverlauf in der vierten Seillänge achten!

Vor allem die zweite SL in der steileren Pfeilerwand ist sehr zu empfehlen.

Nicht ansatzweise so brüchig wie erwartet. Trotzdem Griffe und Tritte prüfen! Absicherung gut. Sehr schöner Quergang.

Schöne, homogene, abwechslungsreiche Route. Absolute Empfehlung!

Ganz vernünftige Kletterei. Jedoch kein Must do.

L2 ist mit der langen Wasserrillen Platte wohl gleich die beste Länge.

exit after pitch 4

Erste Seillänge deutlich schwerer als die zweite Seillänge(eventuell wegen Ausbruch). Oft sehr brüchig. Speziell in der Verschneidung auf den Seilverlauf und Steinschlag achten! Stände teilweise nur ein Ring mit geklebten Haken oder nur ein Seil in einer Sanduhr.

sau cool zum üaba

3er Seilschaft

Leider ist viel Schotter auf der Route, man muss echt gut aufpassen, keinen Steinschlag auszulösen. Der Abstieg ist recht steil und kann durch die teils feine Kiesauflage ziemlich nervenaufreibend werden.

Zustieg nicht so klar, erst einige weniger Meter dem angeschriebenen Weg zum Klettersteig folgen, dann einem etwas versteckten Weg rechts folgen. Der Weg wird immer schwächer bis man sich selber orientieren muss. An der Wand angekommen kann man die ersten Bolts erkennen, leicht rechts über dem Geröllfeld.

Started off relatively well with the first two pitches, despite the bad conditions. The third pitch was completely wet, though, so Jeni switched to aid mode. This, however, took a pretty long time. I managed to second it cleanly and fast, but wouldn't have dared this on lead. We thought the wet pitches were over now, because after the wet chimney start of pitch 4, it looked dry, so we pushed on. I managed to cleanly lead that pitch, the end of which is a brutally hard, polished crack which reminded me of "Steckelesriss" in Burglesau. Jeni started up the next crux pitch, but gave up after half an hour or so, which was the next bad sign. I managed to finish that pitch, but looking at the clock, I was dead sure that we wouldn't make it to the end of pitch 7 in time. I definitely didn't want to get benighted, so we decided to bail. Luckily, there are many glue-ins, so you can back-track relatively safely. Our rope got stuck once, shortly before we reached the ground, but we managed to pull it down after a while.

Nach den SSL keinerlei Motivation mehr clean & sketchy weiter zu machen.

Too much wind. We hike the evening and made a bivouac at the hut. Early bird first walk through snow until the bottom. We went right from the root free to skip the 2 first pitches. Spaced split so no plaisir but normal for alpine route. The third pitch was nice and I expect that the rest of the route is really enjoyable. Do not underestimate the way down if there is snow.

There were 4 people in front of us, which we only realised when talking to two of them at the first belay. They were terribly slow and when I had just finished the bulk of pitch 2, sitting uncomfortably mid-route on a chockstone waiting for them to clear the next belay, it became clear that this wouldn't happen any time soon. So eventually I climbed back down to the belay and we abseiled down since we didn't have too much time on our hands …

To the route itself: the first pitch was actually meant to be climbed in the chimney, but I didn't spot some of the hidden pitons and threads, so I climbed the pillar on the right and then traversed back into the chimney at a good piton. Interesting, but a bit scary. The second pitch is quite short with a funny tunnel section (you don't fit through with a backpack!) before the belay.

Route reminds me of Gäsi climbing =)

Felt hard today in very humid conditions. Especially the first pitch is hard for the grade!

You basically need two shots for every climb here...one to clean the holds and the second one to actually climb it.

Some fun through the roof, for me not harder than P1 (which felt hard for the grade).