Ascensioni in West come Retreat

Nach den SSL keinerlei Motivation mehr clean & sketchy weiter zu machen.

Rückzug am Standplatz nach der 3. Seillänge, die Suche nach dem Einstieg gestaltete sich als schwieriger als gedacht. Aufgrund des ggf. schlechten Wetters das vorausgesagt war haben wir den Rückzug angetreten und abgeseilt.

There were 4 people in front of us, which we only realised when talking to two of them at the first belay. They were terribly slow and when I had just finished the bulk of pitch 2, sitting uncomfortably mid-route on a chockstone waiting for them to clear the next belay, it became clear that this wouldn't happen any time soon. So eventually I climbed back down to the belay and we abseiled down since we didn't have too much time on our hands …

To the route itself: the first pitch was actually meant to be climbed in the chimney, but I didn't spot some of the hidden pitons and threads, so I climbed the pillar on the right and then traversed back into the chimney at a good piton. Interesting, but a bit scary. The second pitch is quite short with a funny tunnel section (you don't fit through with a backpack!) before the belay.

Kreislauf

Started off relatively well with the first two pitches, despite the bad conditions. The third pitch was completely wet, though, so Jeni switched to aid mode. This, however, took a pretty long time. I managed to second it cleanly and fast, but wouldn't have dared this on lead. We thought the wet pitches were over now, because after the wet chimney start of pitch 4, it looked dry, so we pushed on. I managed to cleanly lead that pitch, the end of which is a brutally hard, polished crack which reminded me of "Steckelesriss" in Burglesau. Jeni started up the next crux pitch, but gave up after half an hour or so, which was the next bad sign. I managed to finish that pitch, but looking at the clock, I was dead sure that we wouldn't make it to the end of pitch 7 in time. I definitely didn't want to get benighted, so we decided to bail. Luckily, there are many glue-ins, so you can back-track relatively safely. Our rope got stuck once, shortly before we reached the ground, but we managed to pull it down after a while.

Rückzug wegen schlechtem Wetter....

Thunder and rain approaching

A bit to slow.

One bigger stone broke out in the first pitch and I injured myself, so we aborted our attempt.

Wegen einem wetter Sturz musste sie leider abgebrochen werden. Die ersten fünf Seillängen bis zum grasband sind wesentlich schwerer als 6+ (wahrscheinlich einmal 8-). Ansonsten eine sehr lohnende Tour in bomben Dolomit.

Wegen einem wetter Sturz musste sie leider abgebrochen werden. Die ersten fünf Seillängen bis zum grasband sind wesentlich schwerer als 6+ (wahrscheinlich einmal 8-). Ansonsten eine sehr lohnende Tour in bomben Dolomit.

The first several metres are totally covered in ivy

Einfach keine Power mehr.

Again amazing rock and amazing limestone-atypical diagonal cracks in the upper part. Felt very hard though.

Brüchig!

6a in my topo. 6b+ seems a lot more realistic

zu wenig Exen am Gurt

Set up a toprope on the third bolt for Jim

Not a chance to get into clipping position for bolt three.