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Western Chalet Cliffs 🚫

  • Contesto grado: US

Questa area è chiusa per le arrampicate.

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Etica ereditato da Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

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Vie

Aggiungi via Aggiungi scheda Riordina Modifica in blocco Converti gradi
Grado Via
Chiusa

Start atop a boulder. Climb the thin finger crack past some bolts (possibly missing hangars).

Chiusa

A face climb following a blunt arete at the edge of the face immediately left of the earth gully. Follow the line of bolts.

Chiusa
Chiusa

Take the right side of the roof immediately right of the gully.

Chiusa

Climb the slab to the base of the crack, traverse left to a ledge and climb the left facing corner to the anchors.

Chiusa

Climb up the nice clean hand crack to anchors at the top.

Chiusa

Climb the face right of the corner.

Chiusa

Climb the black water streak to the right of the face.

Chiusa

Climb a system of flake cracks going slightly left, past some (unnecessary?) bolts, to the top.

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