Ascensioni in No Money Down Area come Onsight

Dropped my chalk bag halfway up but still made it

Clean, very tired

Dry!

A bit wet in the middle - made it more interesting.

Good but a little short. Daily onsight of the 3 hardest routes in the meadows (or should it be called the shreadows?) my skin was ruined!

First half was wet, 2nd half damp, making this a far more interesting and challenging climb than normal. Still, very good climbing and a good lead. It is definitely a good idea to have a long draw to clip the pin hidden in the horizontal between the 3rd & 4th bolt. (No, the climb isn't as run-out as it looks from below, because of the fixed pin.)

Climbing is good, but the positioning of the anchors is very awkward for the finish. If finishing to the right (5.8), very hard to clip. Seems like a compromise to allow the (harder) 5.9+ finish to the left as well, resulting in a poor anchor placement for either finish.

Quite a bit of swing possible if top-roping, and even if following if unclips are done early.

Was happy to get at least one 5.8 clean. Less pumpy than the other 5.8s I tried, more intricate.

Seemed ok for 5.7 even without the supposed hardest move at the top. In fact, I found some of the earlier moves harder than this nominal crux.

Good stuff