Ascents as Onsight as trad by Max Gordon

Can a day out climbing get any better than this. So involved. So much fun. I wish more climbs required nudity.

The anchor for this one is at the far right of the first ledge you mantle (the topo in the guide is a bit confusing). If you keep climbing you'll inevitably have to climb through a blocky gully to belay off a tree (not ideal).

Well-protected inside corner crack that is quite cruisey until the finish.

Climbs so much better than it looks

Incredible climbing. The reputation is the hardest part. Not a sandbag at all.

The off width is so classic. It would have been nice to protect it but then maybe not the same experience.

What an outing! It took more landscaping than climbing to send this one. The second pitch we're renaming the "veggie patch" as its currently the grow op of an abundance of ferns and 1 decent sized shrub that will provide a decent sling in a few more years. The updraft today was ridiculous, sending all the ferns i pulled out of the crack up the face of the wall. Doubles in all the wrong cams made this quite exciting and threw my plan of sewing it up out the window. I absolutely recommend this route to anyone that enjoys a bit of adventure. The turn off is about 4.5km from Deans Gap rd and there is now a boom gate at the entrance. There is no burnt out car anymore, but its obvious where it was. Wish we had more time, can't wait to go back for the Naughty Corner.

Has some great climbing. The first few meters and the holds at the anchor are dirty. Used a single rack of cams, including a micro.

Fun climbing and the cleanest line. Used all cams.

The highlight of my trip. The first 4 meters is scary because of poor rock quality but after the undercling move i have only good memories. The second pitch is money! The gear isn't abundant in the upper half although the climbing secure enough to keep things on the fun side of feeling exposed. Twin ropes were very handy.

Not the best of warm ups during winter. I lead the off width start which was humbling although the commitment comes from the upper slab. So hard to grade this style...

Very nice climbing. Bolts are well placed at the crux. The rest of the route felt like a committing lead on small/medium wires with very nice secure climbing.

Awesome to see this on the crag now! I hope its cleaner than the first run, i'll have to come back and see.

My hardest all trad onsight and probably the most memorable climb of the trip. Tried the Alex "no big deal" Honnnold approach but ended up with parkinsons after about 5 meters. As the crack became vertical and the feet disappeared i was feeling out of my depth. Kept it together until my foot slipped and i cried out like a beaten dog hahaha. Used a double gaston with every muscle in my body to keep me from whipping onto the gear. Managed to drag myself through the wet/slimey upper section of the route more out of fear of testing my gear than being a bad ass. Laughed uncontrollable once i topped out and realised what a pussy i am. The climbing is solid and the gear is bomber.

Soloed the first and last 4 pitches. Theres only 1 pitch that feels 17 and i couldn't be sure we even did it on route. I'm sure its pretty safe to wander up any sections of rock assuming its low grade.

A classic in my eyes. Probably because it was my first alpine route. The approach would be enough for a non-climber. Took hours to find the route so i'd suggest to others to distinguish it from afar before looking up at acres of rock from below where the description means shit. look for slings at the end of the first pitch. Climbed off route from the start and scared the b-jesus out of myself. Broke a hand hold and saw my life flash before my eyes and regretting not placing gear for 5 meters. seriously considered life, got it together and went on a hectic journey upward. Definitely did a variant but got there in the end. Last pitch is the hardest (not according to description) and the topo gives you shit all. A must do for anyone getting into trad climbing. So memorable.

For how nice the aerate is i thought the climbing felt awkward. Head bangers is definitely the better line

If the climbing isn't 2 stars, the position and novelty of climbing a trad line on a boulder is.

This route is currently sandy at the bottom and mossy at the top, still a fun climb at the grade