Ascents in Kawakawa Bay by John Pitcairn

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 343 ascents.

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Quality
Tue 6th Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Upper Bluff
	18 Hard	The Sufferer and the Witness - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth	Mixed trad 37m, 3	Average
Aidan's idea, quite pleased I wasn't leading it, dirty as and very very chossy to the left. Some was sent down to terrify the belayer, much remains up there. Got harness gear well stuck in a small manuka and came off, removed it. Crux is cleanish, very balancy and possibly harder than 18. P2 anchor is a pair of surprise carrots. One strand of access hand line is getting a bit core shot. Memorable in the wrong way. Distracted ourselves with more track fairy work down below.
Mon 5th Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	17	★ Kykkeliky - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth	Trad 25m	★ Good
Stuffed myself in too far at the start. The kowhai is an arse and really needs a prune. Found even more gear through the "run out" cave section. Went and looked at the terrifying upper bluff rockfall.
	20 ~19	★ Sundowning Syndrome - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth	Sport 20m, 5	Average
A bit squeezed at the top.
	17 Hard	★★ Iboga - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth	Mixed trad 30m, 1	★★ Very Good
Had led before as a DHMK linkup. Bloody great jamming and bridging. Only let down by a sandy unprotected traverse in and loose topout. Started up GOTG to avoid the grot, long sling on the DHMK anchor and the bolt before it. We sent a few missiles down. Fixed up the core shot GOTG hand line then rapped down that.
Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	18 Hard	★ Natural Selection	Trad 26m	★ Good
Rope soloed on a shunt and backup knots after an epic hot cleaning session. Still a bit gritty yet, needs some rain. Gonna be good to lead, might be 19.
	18	★ Human Intervention - with Aidan Sarginson	Sport 28m, 9	★ Good
Up for a 3-fairy all day cleaning session on this, Natural Selection and Safety In Numbers. Much cleaner now.
Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Yacht Club
	19	★ Don’t Be A Prick, Clean Your Tick - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth	Sport 20m, 4	★ Good
Bloody high 1st bolt preclipped, but the climbing to it is easy enough. Fluffed the crux trying to use Aidan's beta, eventually found something better for me. Must come back for this.
	18	King Of The World - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth	Sport 23m, 5	Average
Draws on. Dodging showers. Probably went a little far left at the crux, but that's what squeeze routes get you.
Fri 2nd Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20 Hard	★★ Great Scott - with Aidan Sarginson	Sport 27m, 10	★ Good
Warmup? Across to the Critters anchor for a 1.5 hour effort getting the big midway flake off that and raining big chunks down. Aidan got the draws off just before rain arrived.
Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20	★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - with Gareth, Justin Wimmer	Sport 15m, 8	★ Good
Thumb press popped off, rats. Pretty green down low, could use a scrub later in summer.
	22	★★★ Rohans Arete - with Gareth, Justin Wimmer	Sport 28m, 11	★★ Very Good
Back in the evening, rock still a bit warm. All going well then cocked up the 2nd crux and paid the tree a visit. Couldn't crunch up enough to get toe on the rock over, had to go on a heel. Warming up first might have helped.
	16 ~17	★★ Blindmans Bluff - with Gareth	Trad 28m	★ Good
Thin crack only at start. Great jamming up top. Borrowed Justin's black totem, perfect size for shattered bit.
	20 Hard	★★ Great Scott - with Justin Wimmer, Gareth	Sport 27m, 10	★★ Very Good
	18	★ Critters Corner - with Justin Wimmer	Trad 25m	★ Good
Thanks to Aidan for the clean! The closest thing to quarry climbing you'll get here. The big midway flake is now starting to hinge outward at its midpoint, it needs to be removed soon.
Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	19 Hard	★★ The Sweet and the Savage - with Gareth	Trad 30m	★★ Very Good
Back to get it, a hell of a fight. Suckers you by starting easy then getting slowly harder until you're packed into a strenuous jam/undercling with very high feet out at the crux. The step around/down (maybe there is another option here) to the vertical crack needed a lot of willpower, then took an age to protect it while wrecked. The "trad belay" seems dodgy due to a hollow sounding block and limited options, kept going to anchors with solid rope drag, belayed with poor comms. Harder than Hecklers I reckon, need more opinions.
	20	★ Sunday School - with Gareth	Sport 17m, 4	★ Good
Straightforward enough once you burn it into non-volatile memory.
	20	★ Sunday School - with Gareth	Sport 17m, 4	★ Good
Took a long time and a couple of takes to find the right sequence after 3rd bolt.
Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Upper tier
	17	★★ Elephant's Revenge - with Gareth	Trad 15m	★★ Very Good
Towed a #5 up here but it's only really useful to protect the wide start until you get a good high hex. A few jamming/offwidth skills will go a long way. Stays fairly clean, and there's a bolted anchor.
Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Middle tier
	15 Hard	Irrelephant - with Gareth	Trad 8m	Average
Continuing the dirty 'ol trad research project. Harder than it looks. Didn't hate it.
Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
	17 Hard	★ Pet Shop Shark Attack 1981 - with Gareth	Mixed trad 30m, 3	★ Good
Rather good. Headed right after first bolt, some sketch getting back on line. Nose bolts a bit tempting. Surprisingly clean for a mixed route.
Thu 28th Dec 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	18	★ Benny’s Magical Koura Circus - with Jonno Rau, Gareth	Trad 18m	★ Good
Nice line, could use a brush.
	17	★★ Boat Ramp Crack - with Jonno Rau, Gareth	Trad 45m	★★ Very Good
Out here for urgent track safety work. Great long route, let down by a dirty top third (take a brush). Lowered Jonno then brought G up, time flew by.
Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	22	★★ Predator - with Jonno Rau, Gareth	Sport 12m, 5	★ Good
After some evening Jugzilla hand-line fixing. Haha, nope, fell or sat on each of the first 4 bolts. Maybe should have warmed up. Lengthy top rope session followed.
Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	18	★ Sneakin' In The Backdoor - with Jonno Rau, Gareth	Sport 15m, 6	★ Good
	18	★★ Outboard Crack - with Jonno Rau, Gareth	Trad 20m	★★ Very Good
Snuck in before the sun started cooking the wall.
Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	16 Easy	★★ The Gecko Groove - with Gareth	Trad 28m	★★ Very Good
Attempting to get a couple more in before dark. Body said please stop.
Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Secret Garden
	19	★★ Bitten By A Cobra - with Gareth	Mixed trad 25m, 4	★★ Very Good
A bit of dirt in the crack dogleg. Put a nut in the jam there, had to remove it and place a lower cam. Skipped all the top bolts, finished to Korimako anchor.
	17	★★ Manbearpig - with Gareth	Trad 15m	★ Good
The Angela move for the win. Don't stuff yourself in.
	16	★ Alice In Wonderland - with Gareth	Sport 20m, 7	★ Good
Gear within half a metre of every bolt.
	17	★★ The Mad Hatter - with Gareth	Sport 20m, 10	★ Good
Loose bolt tightening. Horrified at how much more extensive the trampled earth is and the extra tracks coming in. Unsustainable.
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	18	★★ Road Tripping - with Gareth	Sport 48m, 14	★★ Very Good
Better than High Hopes. Could use a clean but not too bad, maybe 18 as is. Nice view of parties on cruxes of After The Sunset and The Odyssey.
	16	★★ Super Natural - with Gareth	Trad 45m	★★ Very Good
I still bloody love this even after a visit to Arapiles. Still clean enough. Scrape the thin crack out a little for gear at the crux.
Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	16	★ Dont Hurt my Kowhai P2 - with Gareth 2 20 Trad lead by John Pitcairn Bloody great value for 16. Only took nuts, a few cams wouldn't hurt. Excellent finish and a great way to avoid a shambles on GOTG.	Mixed trad 20m, 14	★★ Very Good
	18	★★ Guardians of the Galaxy P1-2 - with Gareth 1 18 20 Second lead by Gareth Linked both pitches. Really nice flowy movement if you don't try to face climb it. 2 18 15 Second lead by Gareth Linked into Don't Hurt My Kowhai P2	Sport 35m, 28	★★ Very Good
Finally ... some Euro twatbag decided it was OK to throw their rope down without asking when G reached the anchor, rap past me seconding and then start to pull the ropes. If you don't like being sworn at don't be such a massive dickhead. And pad your bloody hammock cord.
	19	★★ Dirty Dancing - with Gareth	Sport 15m, 6	★ Good
Made a hash of the pull onto the slab. Some kind of weird heel scum.
	17	★ Ducky Fuzz - with Gareth	Sport 15m	Average
Waiting for 2 parties in the queue ahead of us on Guardians. Tricky start.
Fri 20th Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20 Hard	★★ Great Scott - with Gareth	Sport 27m, 10	★★ Very Good
Side pull flake still present.
	17 Hard	★★ Sunset Boulevard - with Gareth	Trad 18m	★★ Very Good
Getting a tad lichenous through the middle crack. Prob 18 in its current state.
Fri 20th Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	20 ~19	★ Sundowning Syndrome - with Gareth	Sport 20m, 5	Average
I think it's 19.
	16	★ Jug Addiction - with Gareth	Sport 20m, 8	Average
After a morning spent accessing and removing the loose block on Sex Panther.
Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	18	★★ Outboard Crack - with Gareth	Trad 20m	★★ Very Good
1pm start, still a tad slippery in places after overnight rain. Couldn't get Jonno's nut out of Flake 7 on the way down.
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	22	★★ Mr Mojo - with Gareth 1 22 30m Sport lead by John Pitcairn Great pitch. Pumpy through the crimps, needed a sit. A number of attempts at finding the crux sequence with several chunky falls. Core shot the rope but didn't notice, shiiittt. Belayed at the new lower anchor, removed a loose rock and lowered it. 2 18 30m Second lead by Gareth Loose rock, lichen, confusing bolting at top, scrabbly topout over loose gravel to overcrowded caveman anchor. Not 19. Removes a star, don't bother, just do P1.	Sport 60m, 13	★ Good
	16 ~15	Sweet 16s Not M16s - with Gareth	Sport 20m, 9	Don't Bother
Warmup. Meh.
Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	17	★ Kykkeliky - with Gareth	Trad 25m	★ Good
Adventure climbing in failing light. Spiderwebs, bushes, lichen, runout, tree anchor, wouldn't have it any other way. Needed a wee swim after, brrr.
	20 ~19	★ Sundowning Syndrome - with Gareth	Sport 20m, 5	Average
A bit confusing at the crux where routes are just too close together.
	19	★★ Pinch and a Punch - with Gareth	Sport 20m, 7	★★ Very Good
Overlooked by all the punters on the squeeze routes.
Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	19	★★ Flake 7 - with Gareth, Jonno Rau	Trad 20m	★★ Very Good
Right face in middle could use a scrub. Jonno has left some booty at crux if anyone can get it out.
	17 Hard	★★ Sunset Boulevard - with Gareth	Trad 18m	★★ Very Good
Harder than I remember through middle. Missed the good foot out right.
Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20	★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - with Gareth	Sport 15m, 8	★ Good
Can't reach the finger lock at the crux directly from the stance, but a thumb press out left and right foot on the wee feature allows shoulder rotation to do the job.
	22	★★★ Rohans Arete - with Gareth	Sport 28m, 11	★★ Very Good
1 fall at first crux. Hard on the skin.
	20 Hard	★★ Great Scott - with Gareth	Sport 27m, 10	★★ Very Good
Perfect conditions for it.
	16 ~17	★★ Blindmans Bluff - with Gareth	Trad 28m	★ Good
Thin crack only at start.
Wed 4th Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	22	★★ Safety in Numbers	Sport 30m, 14	★★ Very Good
Consistent all the way. A lot of lichen makes it hard to spot the feet and at times you are on lichen slopers. High priority for a clean. Topped out through some dead bushy stuff I didn't remember being there, couldn't find the anchor, then discovered a tree had died and fallen right onto it. Considerable swearing while balanced on more lichen. Got anchored then spent a while wrenching the tree off and sent it down. Rap cleaned. This will be bloody great after a good brush.
	19 Hard	★★ Sidewinder - with Jonno Rau 1 19 32 Sport 2 19 10 Second 3 17 19 Sport	Sport 61m, 17	★★ Very Good
Unexpectedly slipped off onto the first bolt, lowered and pulled the rope for another go. Should have warmed up on something. Strayed too far right after that, hard to get back left. Might remember next time. Got up and off with just a few spots of rain, sheltered from the NE.
Tue 3rd Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	22	★★★ Rohans Arete - with Jonno Rau	Sport 28m, 11	★★ Very Good
Feeling OK at the crux, then discovered I was z-clipped and not going anywhere. Cooked myself undoing that from the crux position then peeled off into the tree trying to make the move. Hauled up then got it. Idiot.
	20 Hard	★★ Great Scott - with Jonno Rau	Sport 27m, 10	★ Good
A good first go by Jonno. Crux flake is still attached.
	16 Easy	★★ The Gecko Groove - with Jonno Rau	Trad 28m	★★ Very Good
Back-cleaned a #1 and #3. Doubles at those sizes would make sense.
Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	19	★★★ The Hecklers - with Jonno Rau	Trad 45m	★★★ Classic
This is so good. Took quite an effort after no climbing for 2 months. A clean of the right face would help find more rests.
	16	★★ Super Natural - with Jonno Rau	Trad 45m	★★ Very Good
Always good. Still pretty clean, present me thanks past me.
	18	★★★ After the Sunset P1 1 18 30m Sport	Sport 30m, 42	★★ Very Good
Warmup. The first of the two good pitches for the route (P5 is the other). Bloody nice.
Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay
Secret Garden
	17	★★ Manbearpig - with Jonno Rau	Trad 15m	★ Good
Quite a change in character after Korimako...
	20 Hard	★★ Korimako - with Jonno Rau	Sport 25m, 11	★ Good
Re-sent. Great conditions, cool and dry sure makes a difference. Somebody left draws on, got a surprise when the one at the top of the slab was a triple-locker (hate 'em), and another when the final draw up the dihedral wasn't there.
	16	★ Alice In Wonderland - with Jonno Rau	Sport 20m, 7	★ Good
New Year's Day and hardly anyone here? Unbelievable. A much more absorbing route on gear.
Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	16	★★ The Gecko Groove - with Gareth	Trad 28m	★★ Very Good
Late start, a bit cold and stiff, foot jamming not very welcome. Neither of us feeling very enthusiastic, back to camp for lunch and pack up.
Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Upper Bluff
	18 19	★★ Sex Panther - with Gareth, Greg, Amy, Arlo	Mixed trad 40m, 6	★★★ Classic
Group Sex Panther. Started up late in the day, led as one pitch with some nervy moments avoiding the loose block at midway. Settled in at sunset for a lengthy belay session bringing up three seconds, watched the moon rise, then we all had a headlamp strobe disco on the ledge. Back to camp around 8.30pm. Thanks to Matt for the extra rope.
Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20	★★ Great Scott - with Greg, Gareth	Sport 27m, 10	★★ Very Good
Rock getting a bit warm, but probably the smoothest I've ever managed. The small crux sidepull flake is flexing, somebody will get a surprise soon.
	22	★★★ Rohans Arete - with Gareth, Amy	Sport 28m, 11	★★★ Classic
Haha, unsent again. Had a brain fart at the second crux, one take to sort my shit out rather than take the plummet into the tree again.
	17	★ The Slot Machine - with Gareth	Trad 15m	★ Good
Possibly the least gear I have ever placed on this at 5 pieces, but I was bumping the single #3 cam. The block at the bottom is not loose, but it is fairly hollow. There is a good 0.3 cam as alternative first piece just below it.
Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	19	★★ Pinch and a Punch - with Greg, Gareth	Sport 20m, 7	★★ Very Good
Shortly before dark, among the AURAC hordes. Sure keeps you honest, held a foot slip at the expense of some finger skin. Then time for Gareth's grindr assault on Respect My Authoritah.
Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	22	★★ Safety in Numbers - with Greg, Gareth	Sport 30m, 14	★★ Very Good
Also bloody good. Started in a post-lunch coma but woke up pretty fast. Great slabby moves, fairly sustained at 20+ most of the way. Possibly 3 stars if it was cleaner, though it's clean enough if you trust the occasional lichen smear. Should have led it dammit, will be back for that.
	19	★★ Survival of the Fittest - with Greg, Gareth	Sport 40m, 14	★★ Very Good
Bloody good, highly recommended. Much cleaner than I was expecting too. An easy warmup cruise up most of Raw Umber lulls you into a false sense of security, then get your runout trousers on for the tricky arete crack (or take a couple of finger size cams). Then it's time for the main game, up the black-streaked corner. You can step across left to a good rest, but getting back right will be tricky if that's where you want to go. Spent a good long while figuring out how to keep moving up on the left and didn't want to leave the rest, but it's all there at the grade. Easier to the top, then best rap down is to the Raw Umber anchor.
Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Jungle Wall
	18	★ Baloo - with Greg	Sport 18m, 9	Average
Pretty straightforward and not worth a star in my opinion.
	23	★ Kaa's Kingdom - with Greg, Gareth	Sport 18m, 10	★ Good
Top rope fail and lower, couldn't stand up off the crux crimps. But getting up to there is pretty neat. Stiffer shoes with a lower profile toe might help.
	19	★★ Tropic Thunder - with Greg, Gareth	Mixed trad 18m, 2	★★ Very Good
Quite a bit trickier than it looks, and really good. Some difficult off-balance jamming through the corner, then eases up top. A full double rack is overkill unless you want to stitch it up, but doubles of 0.4 thru 1 may be handy. The 2 bolts are just an annoyance.
	19	★★ Bandar-log - with Greg	Sport 18m, 10	★ Good
Draws on. Felt a bit awkward, maybe not the best warmup. One star at most.
Sat 5th Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	22	★★ Predator - with Gareth	Sport 12m, 5	★ Good
Close. A bit pumped and too far left after clipping 3rd bolt, took one sit. Threw to the wrong (higher) hold after first bolt, backed down and did it again. Rain coming in but this was staying dry. Swam in the lake in the rain after. An OK early trip end.
	18	★ Respect My Authoritah - with Gareth	Sport 20m, 5	★ Good
Went easily now the gritty feet have cleaned up. Going right to the sloper-undercling thing is a bit harder, but still no more than 18 and not stiff.
Sat 5th Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20	★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - with Gareth	Sport 15m, 8	★ Good
Getting really really humid early afternoon. Foot greased off the crux flake.
	18	★ Critters Corner - with Gareth	Trad 25m	★ Good
Committing. Up the slab solo until the corner and #1 nut. A cam behind the crux flake is avoidable with a decent blue totem in a small flaring slot at its bottom right, ball nut in a thin crack a bit below and right (didn't have any), and a nut in the flake at half height, then a stance and gear above. Top of the flake definitely flexing a little. A #4 wouldn't hurt at the top (didn't have that either).
	20	★★ Great Scott - with Gareth	Sport 27m, 10	★★ Very Good
Thu 3rd Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	19	★★★ The Hecklers - with Gareth	Trad 45m	★★★ Classic
Bloody great. Right face could really use a scrub. Gareth seconded clean, good effort. We could see and hear Katie and Joe up at the crux on the Odyssey.
	16	★★ Super Natural - with Gareth	Trad 45m	★★ Very Good
Sun broke out halfway which prompted quite a speedup. Staying clean enough, though you'll always have to dig out the thin crack a little around the crux.
	18	★★ Bi-Curious George - with Gareth	Sport 32m	★ Good
Gareth had a small touch-up scrub. The roof isn't the crux if you use a little brain.
	14	★★ Sunset Ledge - with Gareth	Trad 28m	★ Good
Lugged the trad gear out, warmup. Crack pretty clean.
Wed 2nd Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Secret Garden
	16	★ Alice In Wonderland - with Gareth	Sport 20m, 7	★ Good
Did both crux variations. Right is harder than left.
	20	★★ Korimako - with Gareth	Sport 25m, 11	★ Good
Unsent. Felt harder than last time, maybe humidity, maybe some crystals have ground off, maybe the different shoes, maybe just having a shit day.
	17	★★ Samurai Pizza Cats - with Gareth	Sport 15m, 9	★ Good
A bit tired, drizzly morning, then dodging the sun. Rather a large bush spider in one of the holds at the lip. Fortunately there are plenty of other holds.
Tue 1st Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	22	★★★ Rohans Arete - with Gareth	Sport 28m, 11	★★★ Classic
7.30pm and finally starting to cool off a bit. No warmup just punch it and milk the rests. Got a bit too focused and accidentally skipped the crux bolt. Bloody great, and off the unsent list.
Tue 1st Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
	19	★★ Sidewinder - with Gareth 1 19 31m lead by John Pitcairn 2 19 10m lead by John Pitcairn 3 17 19m lead by Gareth	Sport 60m, 17	★★ Very Good
Hard to believe I've never done this, it's great. The name is all the beta you need. Pitch 2 is a wee ripper, dancing up the overhanging wall on decent jugs.
	18	★ Human Intervention - with Gareth	Sport 28m, 9	★★ Very Good
Still like it. It could be cleaner at the top. Some interesting complaints from G.
Mon 31st Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	19	★★ Dirty Dancing - with Gareth	Sport 15m, 6	★ Good
Vague sense of slacking, walked up to do something before dark.
Mon 31st Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	19	★★ Flake 7 - with Gareth	Trad 20m	★★ Very Good
Been a while. A lovely climb, great passive gear at the crux, though now not sure about that upgrade. Felt solid 18.
	20	★★ Great Scott - with Gareth	Sport 27m, 10	★★ Very Good
Benchmark 20, if it's harder than this it's 21...
	16	★★ The Gecko Groove - with Gareth	Trad 28m	★★ Very Good
No cams used. Tricams handy to protect the top but there is probably some nut-craft available if you want to be even slower...
Sun 30th Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	17	★ Kykkeliky - with Gareth	Trad 25m	★ Good
It's not 2 stars but it's definitely worth doing. There is sufficient gear in the "runout" cave section if you use your eyes and brain.
Tue 4th Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
	20	★★ Great Scott - with Gareth	Sport 27m, 10	★★ Very Good
Off the "unsent" list, and easily, retrieving Alex's draws. Two fingers and a thumb on the crystal spike provides good attitude control and lets you look around the corner for the sidepull. Gareth found some sketchy tall bastard beta to avoid the whole drama. Time to pack up.
	17	★★ Sunset Boulevard - with Gareth	Trad 18m	★★ Very Good
Final morning warmup. Bloody nice.
Mon 3rd Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
	17	★ Secret Squirrel - with Gareth	Sport 20m, 6	★ Good
Warmdown 2. Use the right arete at the low crux and it's on the soft side of 17.
	16	★ Sugar Rush - with Gareth	Sport 15m, 5	Average
Warmdown 1. Would probably be a decent slab, but pretty dirty. Anyone want to scrub it properly?
	22	★★ Predator - with Gareth	Sport 12m, 5	★ Good
Another go on top rope to try and link it. Forgot the holds around bolt 4, one sit. Will revisit.

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Ascents in Kawakawa Bay by John Pitcairn

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