Ascents in Kawakawa Bay by John Pitcairn

Thought we'd top rope after James led, but no sign of him so got on it with a chalk bag on feeling very sporty. A bit nervy getting first draw on and clipped, then sat on it. Went bolt-to-bolt from there, working out a good sequence among many many chalked-up sucker holds. Managed to get through bolt 5 clean. After bolt 1 it all works best as big moves between jugs.

Snaked in front of Alex on his draws before the heat. Barndoored off at the balance crux before finding the sidepull, fingers just caterpillared to it next try. Right of the bolts above the mantle is way easier than any direct. Had a look at the dodgy block on Critters Corner on the way down.

Good lead from Gareth. Unparalleled VCS dialed in nicely now, the forefoot sensitivity coming on strong, toe-top rubber is good in a crack.

Warmup, allegedly. Nearly came off at crux 2, wake up!

Had an epic. After the Sunset finishing after the sunset on New Year's day, for a 10-pitch day? What a great plan. Got out there at 6pm, still bastard hot, but got on as two ropes of two, following a pitch behind. Cooked like prawns up P1-2, and the P2 topout is now very dirty and uninspiring. By sunset we were mostly all at the bottom of the crux pitch, but Greg had mistakenly gone right after bolt 2 into the Mexican Americans crux, was falling repeatedly and knackered. After discussing the unappealing bail options, I swapped into leading the crux pitch by head torch, then settled in for top belay while Jonno seconded, Greg and Gareth jugged up. Topped out just before midnight, then soon lost the ridge track in windfall. After an hour of nervous random bush bashing near cliffs, we failed to pick up the track again, took a phone topo map bearing toward the kinloch track and bashed over to that for another hour behind Gareth the Sweary Bulldozer, then slunk down to camp, getting in at 2.40am on the 2nd. Camp-to-camp time: an appalling 9 hours 10 minutes. Swim, beer, snacks, more swearing, bed, rest day. More could be written. Type 2 fun.

A new year's morning multi with 3 on a rope, before the sunshine hits the rock. The P1 tips crack always provides entertainment. P3 cave exit could be 17-18 with the right beta I think, though Greg did a much harder full high heel and mantle effort. Managed the P4 crux much better this time. The big pillar before that with the chalked X is probably more secure than it looks. Took a wander left off the bottom of P2 and down via Welcome to Kawakawa hand line - not recommended at all, don't do that.

Now with 20% less sharp and much better for it. Just stay on and keep going. One of the best in the vicinity.

Some NYE shade. Gareth leading after 3 days of shoulder whinge.

First outdoor visit for Chris, so why not make it a multipitch? Did P1-2 on gear with one bolt at crux. Shoes still not as sensitive as I'd like for that. Loose rock at top of P2 is a bit worrying. Had thought we might be able to get across to top pitch of DHMK to finish, but that looked sketchy and hard. Hot hot hot, rapped off.

In theory just providing a P1 top rope, but had never done pitch 2, which turns out to be quite balancy with a couple of committing moves until it eases after bolt 3. Nice top out, a smidge higher than Captain Caveman. A hurried rap off and walk back to camp in low light and spots of rain.

The low end of 19. Always a slight sense of disappointment when the monkey jugs disappear for the crux.

Off the dog list at least. Has you thinking at the start for sure. There's probably a fun grunty direct.

Pretty damn balancy.

I think I call 19 on this. Back on the new shoes. Hard start getting the first draw on if you are not tall, would be a bad fall onto the tree. Certainly woke me up.

Not 2 stars, Great Scott is better. But still good. Did something different at crux, some kind of thumb-press out left.

Needs a bit of a sweep. Didn't take enough #3s (take two), managed to overcam a shonky 4. Top protects well with a #2 nut then 0.2 and 0.1 alien.

A final quickie before it got too hot up top.

Used the Angela high-step beta at the crux, which keeps you out of the trench and more mobile. Great fun, good gear, nothing bigger than #3 needed.

Perfectly good gear close to every bolt. Took the left-hand crux (17).

A bit tetchy in the new shoes, sensitivity not there yet. Felt 18 as a result.

Thin crack only at the start for a bit of stiffening.

Obligatory post-arrival run in the evening.

Compulsory on every trip ... jammed as much as possible, slung the block, one #4, one #3.

Eating my own dog food, setting up for a mock-lead for Paul. The kōwhai needs attention again, it makes things harder, the resilient wee bugger.

Bloody good, and the upgrade is deserved. 2-3 cruxes and quite committing. Watched the sun set while belaying from the top.

Back for a proper go. Bouldery start then delicate moves up to meet Rohan's Little Sister. Think it's probably 18 unless you're supposed to crank straight up over the nose, which would be an eliminate. Adds a very worthwhile few metres.

Vegetated down low, lichenous higher, needs a better clean. If cleaner I think it would be quite good, has a nice physicality to it with some committing moves. Mind the chossy bits at top, but there is gear, and don't miss the anchor out left (the traverse to that is protectable by a #3).

Much better after the clean at the bottom, but a lot of dirt will continue to rain down on it I think. Mind the somewhat chossy stuff up top, though there is good gear to be had. Squeeze between the kōwhai and the rock for a better belay experience, then extend yourself down from the tree anchor. You can rap off the shackles on the hand line and get down to the bottom of Taniwha Crackdown on a 60m rope, assuming you want to trust the hand line.

About time ... good lead Grant. Seemed like I faffed around for ages at the start.

Unsent. Repeated attempts and falls at the crux, shoulder didn't like it much, forgot my mantel beta, left a biner of shame. Really not firing on all cylinders.

There's a good nut on the right before you pull over the top of the overhang, and a decent bridged stance to place it.

Got out there early before the hordes arrive and start queueing. 5 years since I last led this and every move seemed new. One long pitch is the way to go, but if so your seconds need to be aware of the rope stretch at the low crux (which is not 16).

Gotcha! Just a bit different after ManBearPig. Avoided drifting right to the tempting thin horizontal crack at the start, that just sets you up for a really tenuous wide move left. Stayed just a whisker left of the bolts the whole way from the start, on smaller holds, but smaller moves are required. Linked into P2, got all crossed up and made that harder than necessary. A happy ending to a good trip in excellent company.

Haha, cocked up the crux, but had a nice big nut above me. It's hard to go in for pro then get back out to make the move, made worse by forgetting my wide palm-off beta from last time. Angela did a much better job.

All good gear.

Much easier than it looks from the ground.

This is pretty good at the grade, a fun move getting out of the overhang.

Direct start using the thin crack and face only gives it fairly solid 17.

A fun outing in good company. Had a windy chilly time at the crux pitch belay with little communication possible while events unfolded below. Walked off.

One #4 is completely sufficient if you keep your eyes peeled for the many other options.

Engaging, stay a whisker left/below the bolts at the start traverse to avoid a nervy step across.

Nearly spat me off at the crux. Had put a cam in the best fingerlock above the horizontal, things got very rattly.

It's getting cleaner at the bottom, must be seeing some traffic.

A revisit before leaving. Left it too long between attempts, forgot my own beta, fell off into the usual tree, got suckered by face features, had a couple of pumped sits, but got up it, back can't be too bad. Terrific route.

Thin crack start, good gear from Grant.

Started up at 6pm, back down just after 9 in a party of 3. Nice to lead pitch 4, veered a bit left for extra overhang stardom in front of an audience of 26 boats parked up in the bay. Would give 3 stars if not for the hand line in the middle.

May have used a feature or two from Fuggin’ Jet Skis, but if those aren't in it's a bit bloody contrived. Frankly these are squeeze routes anyway, just one would have been better, and this also arguably retrobolts the trad line. Meh.

Deceptive. Think I was too far left after bolt 2, downclimbed and cleaned.

Suckered too far left by Grant after bolt 2, needed a sit and re-compose but came close to onsight. Wander around is right! Probably suits the light and nimble climber, pretty good, will revisit.