Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Tue 12th Mar 2024 - Lake Adelaide | ||||||
Phil's Bivvy Slab | ||||||
17 |
★ Footsies P2
- with
Tim
2
| 30m, 12 | ||||
Wed 6th Mar 2024 - Diamond Harbour Crag | ||||||
11 | ★ Gastrointestinal Rumbles | 7m, 3 | ||||
11 | Short but Sturdy | 7m, 4 | ||||
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Little River Crag | ||||||
★★ Unknown Corner - with Reg | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good techy start.
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19 | ★★★ Mind Games - with Reg | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
17 | ★★ The Pretender - with Reg | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★★★ Friendzy - with Reg | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Epic roof!. I found the blocks at the base of the roof a bit scary (crowbar anyone?). A second #4 or a #5 would have been nice. Shortly after, Jacob had a big ground fall out of the initial fist crack, but survived with a few bruises and a broken totem.
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Farm Park | ||||||
Rat Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Rooster Booster - with Sam, Owen | 10m, 4 | ||||
22 | ★★ Super Gold Card - with Sam, Owen | 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Farm Park | ||||||
Flax Wall | ||||||
25 ~24 | ★★★ Silk Road - with Sam, Owen | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hanging the draws with a few pointers from Sam
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Mon 19th Feb 2024 - Little River Crag | ||||||
19 | ★★ Monarch - with Felix | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome tricky groove and roof corner!
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Little River Crag | ||||||
16 | ★ Spectrum - with Felix | 30m | ★ Good | |||
18 ~20 | ★ Consequences - with Felix | 30m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves up the arete and above. Got a little bit scared
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21 | ★ TBS Direct - with Felix | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★★ Hubris - with Felix | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 | ★★ Two Right Hands - with Felix | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Burly roof moves, fun!
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Jane Fonda Workout Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Meat Injection - with Digger | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Whakapapa Gorge | ||||||
18 | ★ Serial Pillar - with Morgan | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice
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23 |
★★ Electric Earth P1
- with
Morgan
1
23
15m
| 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Retro flash
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17 ~18 | ★★★ Scoopage - with Morgan | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky first pitch, then really fun hand crack
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17 ~18 | ★★ Under Heavy Manners - with Morgan | 40m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Exposed and sustained second pitch!
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Mon 8th Jan 2024 - Piarere | ||||||
Southern Cliff Left of the Spring | ||||||
18 | ★★ Blood Of A Lamb - with Brad | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
19 | ★ Babs In Toyland - with Jason B | 14m, 4 | ||||
15 | ★ Oliver's Twist - with Jason B | 12m, 5 | ||||
16 | ★★ Ride On Time - with Jason B | 14m, 4 | ||||
13 | ★ Gary's Arete - with Jason B | 14m, 5 | ||||
13 | ★ Gary's Arete - with Jason B | 14m, 5 | ||||
13 | ★ Gary's Arete - with Jason B | 14m, 5 | ||||
13 | ★ Gary's Arete - with Jason B | 14m, 5 | ||||
13 | ★ Gary's Arete - with Jason B | 14m, 5 | ||||
Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Chinaman's Bluff | ||||||
Ravages Area | ||||||
20 | ★★★ The Ravages of Time - with Clare | 240m, 47 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lead all pitches clean, flash or onsight all apart from lowering off pitch 7 after accidentally starting to link into it from 6. We climbed the first two pitches the day before and bailed due to lots of other parties on the route. Really enjoyed the steep crack pitches!
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Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Tukino | ||||||
Child’s Play | ||||||
16 | Meissa - with Morgan | 13m | ★ Good | |||
17 | Eureka - with Morgan | 12m, 4 | ||||
Repeat
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17 | ★ Dustbowl - with Morgan | 1 | ★ Good | |||
Just with Morgan's old WC nuts
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Ōtepatotu | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★★ Space Inflation - with Romain, Clare | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Path de Pierre - with Romain, Clare | 22m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
16 | ★★ Oblivion - with Romain, Clare | |||||
14 | ★★ N. S. U. - with Romain, Clare | 20m | ||||
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Mount Bradley | ||||||
The Main Cliff | ||||||
19 Hard | ★★ Spring Fever - with Romain | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Desperate finger crack and bridging start into some interesting moves around the roofs. We added some new rope to the rap anchor at the Tōtara.
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17 Hard | ★★ Son of Hangman - with Romain | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent bottom half. Save a #3 and #4 for the crack above the roof. Some new tat for the anchor would be a good idea
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17 Hard | ★★ Crime of the Century - with Romain | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice bridging. The gear seemed pretty reasonable for the most part.
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Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Main Wall Central Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Burning Sky - with Meg, Chris | 24m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice techy bridging up high. Takes 0.3-4 camalots and offset nuts
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Main Wall Central Cliff | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Morning Glory - with Meg | 28m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pinnacle Lower Sunnyside | ||||||
20 | ★★ Maybe - with Meg, Fran | 14m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 1st Aug 2023 - The Altar | ||||||
20 | ★ Hindu Love Gods - with Justin Wimmer, Ruaidhri | 11m, 5 | ||||
19 | ★ Catholic Girls - with Justin Wimmer | 8m, 4 | ||||
Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Quantum Field Map 36 Quandry and ArmChair | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Long Drop - with Justin, Clare, Henry | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Quantum Field Map 34 Adios Gringos | ||||||
15 | ★★ Backwater - with Clare, Juzzie | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
V3 | ★★★ Regurgitator - with Clare, Juzzie, Henry | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Arthur's Pass | ||||||
Mt Rolleston Mt Rolleston Alpine Routes | ||||||
2+ | ★★★ Rome Ridge - with Justin Wimmer, Wako | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Mt Horrible | ||||||
16 ~17 | ★ Slim Jim's Jam - with Wako | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice climb
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Colac Bay | ||||||
Crayfish Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ The Black Corner | 9m | ||||
★ No. 7 | ||||||
V0 | ★ No. 6 | |||||
Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Wunderbar | ||||||
19 | ★★ Once Upon A Planet - with Justin Wimmer, Ian, Wako | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 | ★★ Jellied Squeals - with Justin Wimmer, Ian, Wako | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Challenging entrance to the scoop, a bit damp
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16 | ★★ Climb Without A Postcard - with Justin Wimmer, Ian, Wako | 14m, 5 | ||||
Tricky to avoid the waterfall next door
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17 | ★★ Skylark - with Justin Wimmer, Ian, Wako | 11m, 4 | ||||
16 | ★ More Than Ewes Can Chew - with Justin Wimmer, Ian, Wako | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - The Altar | ||||||
21 Hard | ★★ Randall the Horny Clergyman - with Romain | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
23 | ★★ Rasta's Revolution - with Romain | 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★★ The Pulpit - with Romain | 10m, 4 | ||||
21 Easy | ★★ Thor's Hammer - with Romain | 14m, 4 | ||||
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Avian Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Aretic Vulture - with Fran, Alicia | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent slopey arete climbing!
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23 | ★ Humanure - with Fran, Rachael | 12m, 8 | ||||
17 ~19 | ★ Great Ape | 15m, 7 | Average | |||
We did the direct start through the chain link hanger straight up into Great Ape
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17 | ★ Seacliff | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 7th May 2023 - Baring Head | ||||||
Ship Rock | ||||||
22 | ★★ Let Me Up | 15m, 3 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Shape Shifters — 3 attempts | 15m, 4 | ||||
18 | ★ An Alien At My Table | 12m, 3 | ||||
21 | ★★ Reptilian Groove | 14m, 4 | ||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Flock Hill Main Field | ||||||
V3 | ★★★ 100 Times Slab - with Alex | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
V4 | ★★★ Lady killer - with Alex | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Quantum Field Map 34 Adios Gringos | ||||||
V3 | ★★★ Regurgitator - with Chris | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Chris showed the way, facing the steep side
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Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Quantum Field Map 33 Headlights Boulder | ||||||
V2 | 49 | |||||
V2 | 48 | |||||
V3 | ★ Heave Ho! | 3m | ||||
V1 | ★ Shaft | |||||
Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Motatapu Valley | ||||||
Dunnyside | ||||||
24 | ★★ John McCallum's Crack — 2 attempts - with Jim Ant | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Doubles 0.5-1,and big nuts. One kneebar, ten handjams, two fingerlocks, two jugs, two heels, and a footjam
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
The Crackhouse | ||||||
20 | ★★ Gastroman - with Jim Ant | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Am impressive steep, line. ¿Hexes might go pretty well in the knobbly crack?
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22 | ★★ Karearea Crack - with Jim Ant | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice fingerlocks and laybacking
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20 | ★★ Critics' Choice - with Jim Ant | 30m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Decked with no gear in trying to go direct through the initial overhang (thanks for the spot Jimmy), then sent in one pitch
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Fri 31st Mar 2023 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Whale Watching | ||||||
20 | ★★ No Thanks I'd Rather Walk - with Justin Wimmer, Derek | 15m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
23 | ★★ Hobo Humping Slobo Babe - with Justin Wimmer, Derek | 15m, 5 | ||||
Fri 31st Mar 2023 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
The Main Cliff | ||||||
17 | ★★ Headbangers Arete - with Justin Wimmer, Derek | 20m, 5 | ||||
19 | ★ The Nutty Professor - with Justin Wimmer, Derek | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Finally sent, I lost a little bit of fingertip to the crack ten years ago when a foothold broke and I fell off.
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Fri 31st Mar 2023 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Falcon Steep Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Falcon Steep - with Justin Wimmer, Derek | 20m, 10 | ||||
Repeat
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Fri 31st Mar 2023 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
The Office | ||||||
24 | ★★ Fountain Of Youth - with Justin Wimmer | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 30th Mar 2023 - West Wānaka Bluffs | ||||||
Al Cap Area Al Cap | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Badger — 2 attempts - with Honza, Jochen | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 30th Mar 2023 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
The Crackhouse | ||||||
19 Hard | Wanna Be A Crack Climber - with Shane | 15m, 5 | ||||
22 | ★★ Chewbacca - with Shane | 20m, 7 | ||||
22 | ★★ Jedi Knight - with Shane | 20m, 6 | ||||
Sun 26th Mar 2023 - Little Babylon | ||||||
23 | ★★ Rua Tahi - with Tim H | 12m, 5 | ||||
21 Hard | ★ Multitude - with Tim H | 9m, 4 | Average | |||
Thu 23rd Mar 2023 - Lake Adelaide | ||||||
Sabre North Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★★ North Buttress Direct Start - with Tim H | 450m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Highly recommend bivvying as high as possible.
We did a variant start that I don't recommend I scrambled up onto sloping ledge from left hand end and built a poor belay (sling, purple peanut, upside down cam) before it turned to slab.
Pitch 1:
19 * 46m
Diagonal right across slab and up into hanging v corner (#3 & #4 quite useful here, step R around arete and climb the easy face above, then crimpy traverse R to a belay at a cramped stance at the base of the second 19 pitch on the Direct North Buttress
Pitch 2
19 * 40?m
Up steep handcrack corner to a big chockstone belay on the arete of the buttress. Shared with Standard Route
Pitch 3
16 30m?
Up nice finger crack left of the buttress to big ledge with horn belays
Pitch 4
17 45m
Tricky corner on the right, then up to chockstones on the prow
Pitch 5
14 * 40m
Short juggy face to easy slab, belay at small stance with a big block and cracks. A bit runout but easy.
Pitch 6
16 * 48m
Somewhat runout face to belay in groove (red totem helpful). Second had to simul a little with 50m ropes
Pitch 7
15
Start up groove then face on right on ribs and featured rock to nice sloping stance below gully.
Pitch 8
50m
13
Up gully and cracks on right. Lots of cracks for belays, no big stances.
Pitch 9
14 50m
Up nice slabby face on right, into blocky gully on left when necessary. Big ledge near summit
Pitch 10
15m
Up chimney on left onto summit ridge (might be able to walk around?)
Walk and scramble through boulders to summit. We abseiled a scary line that I wouldn't recommend down the north east face from a slung boulder pinch. |
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Sun 19th Mar 2023 - The Chasm | ||||||
20 | ★★ Another One - with Tim H | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
18 |
★★ Jack The Biscuit
- with
Tim H
1
17
15m
2
18
15m
| 30m, 20 | ||||
10 ~12 | ★★ Access Rungs - with Tim H | 20m | ||||
Sat 18th Mar 2023 - Mt Horrible | ||||||
18 | ★★ Pareora Corner - with Chrissi | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 18th Mar 2023 - Homer Hut Area | ||||||
Moir Moir's Mate West Face | ||||||
20 Easy | ★★★ Lucky Strike - with Tim H | 280m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
In damp conditions. I lead even pitches and struggled with a wet crux on pitch two
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