Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun 7th Jun 2020 - 镇江 | ||||||
| 镇江南山 D | ||||||
| V6 |
★★ 沉默呐喊
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|
上午别的区都晒，窝在D区抱石
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| V2 |
★ V2
| Average | ||||
| Sun 7th Jun 2020 - 镇江 | ||||||
| 镇江南山 B | ||||||
| 5.10b |
★ 成长之路 Growth Path
| 20m, 11 | Average | |||
|
上半段比较脏，感觉一般
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| Sat 6th Jun 2020 - 镇江 | ||||||
| 镇江南山 C | ||||||
| 5.11c |
★★ 闪电 Flash
| 21m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.11c |
★★ 闪电 Flash
| 21m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
掉了一次，少看到一个左手点。
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| 5.11c |
★★ 闪电 Flash
| 21m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
掉一次，看错另外一个左手点。
上半部是难点，slab平衡风格，需要脚法和手序，容错率低。 slabby, sequency |
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| 5.10c |
★★ 谁爬谁知道
| 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
|
年度onsight失败，找不到点。
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| 5.10c |
★★ 谁爬谁知道
- with
lollypop
| 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 24th May 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
| Mika's Ledge | ||||||
| 5.12b 5.12a |
★★ Medicinal
- with
可可
| 17m, 11 | ||||
|
时间不够了，第一个屋檐下的扣扣动态和后面的仰角横切是拉快挂过的。翻第一个屋檐挂左脚比较简单。
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| Sun 24th May 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
| Lower 40 | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★★ Honey Hole
- with
lollypop
| 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
没有太抠的点，中间难点有个隐蔽的反提，用上了不用往右走，能简单。
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| 5.11d 5.11c |
★★ Scrubadub
- with
青炎
| 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.10c 5.11a |
★★ Ring Lock
- with
lollypop
| 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
夹角裂缝，略难。爬的人少，长蜘蛛网和青苔。
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| Sat 23rd May 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
| Mika's Ledge | ||||||
| 5.11d |
★★★ Power Of 3, Crack
- with
青炎
| 28m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
耐力风格。分叉前的裂缝略难，分叉后快到顶是难点，没看到点掉了。
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| 5.12d 5.12c |
★★ Here Or There ??
- with
可可
| 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
crimp横切一直抓不住，拍平台倒是顺利。 之后的难点核心耐力不够了...
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| Sat 23rd May 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
| Lower 40 | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★★ The Jesus Line
- with
lollypop
| 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
一年爬一把，终于第三年红了。今年摩擦力好多了。 #3go
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| 5.10b |
★★ Angry Baboon
| 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
一年爬一把，终于第三年红掉了。第5挂片是难点。 #3go
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| Tue 5th May 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
| Western Hill 西山 猫头鹰岩 Low Area | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★ 不可逆转 The irreversible
- with
lollypop
| 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.11b |
★★ 亮翅 Bright wings
| 13m, 5 | ||||
|
企图在走之前再挂一条线，不过时间来不及了。
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| 5.11c 5.11a |
★★ 打冒炸 Da Mao Zha
| 12m, 4 | Average | |||
|
仰角抱石线，角度不小，不简单，挂片打的位置感觉不舒服。不适合热身… #hard
|
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| 5.12b |
★★ 熊猫眼 Panda eye
| 24m, 9 | ||||
|
熊猫眼位置的挂片卡住了，不确定后面该往左还是右
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| Mon 4th May 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
| Swallow Cave 燕子洞 Shady Grove 林荫墙 | ||||||
| 6b 5.10d |
★ NarcissisticTendencies (new route 2)
- with
lollypop
| 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
|
利用左右的裂缝大点向上。 正面直上会更难些。
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| 7a 5.11d |
★★ 低电量警报 Low Battery Warning (Low Battery Warning)
- with
青炎
| 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
角度不小，仰角耐力风格。第二把挂片不太好挂，中间一路大点，快到顶是难点。中间的大岩片要休息好。
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| 6c 5.11b |
★★ 快乐兔子 Happy Rabbit (Happy Rabbit)
- with
二大爷
| 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
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点比较少，跨度不小。 翻屋檐掉了一把，找到一些小的左侧拉就好办了。
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| 6b 5.10c |
★★ 愤怒的天空 Angry Skies (Angry Skies)
- with
lollypop
| 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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比较少见的风格，有趣。沿小凹槽一路向上。
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| Sun 3rd May 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
| 抚仙湖 海口玉皇阁 | ||||||
| 5.10c 5.10c/d |
Better days 少年的你
- with
青炎
| 14m, 6 | Average | |||
|
沿细裂缝上，最后sloper挂顶。石头很碎，小心
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| 5.10d 5.10c |
★★ 自由的风
- with
青炎
| 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
下半段不简单的slab。比较硬。#hard
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| Sat 2nd May 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
| 团结街道 小墨雨洞 Xiao Mo Yu Cave | ||||||
| 5.11b |
★★ 4 Days XP
| 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| 5.12a |
★★ Star Tears 流星雨
| 10 | ||||
|
第三挂片难点，需要左手指力，退
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| 5.11b |
★★ 4 Days XP
| 18m, 7 | ||||
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力竭，需要找休息点
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| 5.11b |
★★ 4 Days XP
| 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
没有太差的点，需要仰角耐力
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| 5.10d |
★★ Million Ma 百万马力 (Million Ma)
| 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
都是大点，但是不太好找。
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| Fri 1st May 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
| Western Hill 西山 猫头鹰岩 Low Area | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★★ 周四翘班 Thursday for you
| 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
耐力风格长线，大点不无聊，不少侧拉的点，动作花样不少，适合热身
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| 5.11c ~5.11d |
★★ 新护目镜 New Safety glasses
| 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
中间是小仰角pinch耐力，以为到了俯角就简单了，却发现是花岗岩风格的slab
 好大的惊喜，完全没有心理准备 … 线路质量倒是挺好的
|
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| 5.13a 5.12d |
★★ 武探花 Kongfu No. 3
| 13m, 5 | ||||
|
第一把快挂后 左手指力劝退
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| 5.11b |
★★ 猫头鹰孵小鸡 Incubative owl
| 21m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
最后一个挂片掉了，不容易on，摸点到力竭。最后是往右做一个大动作通过难点。下半段很简单，后半段大点大动作
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| 5.11a |
★★ 迁移 Migration
| 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★ 喜羊羊 Happy goat
| 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
沿裂缝上，有点小仰角，大点。热身好线
|
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| 5.11a |
★★ 迁移 Migration
| 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
第四挂片难点，关键sloper手点是湿的，掉了。拍了粉就过了。动作还不错
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| Thu 30th Apr 2020 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
| 团结街道 小墨雨洞 Xiao Mo Yu Cave | ||||||
| 5.11a |
★ One Time
| 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
|
难点从右走的。
|
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| 5.11b 5.10d |
★★ Lay Backer
| 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
脚滑了
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| 5.11b 5.10d |
★★ Lay Backer
| 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.11a 5.10d |
★ Buddha Panda 熊猫烧香 (Buddha Panda)
| 15m, 5 | Average | |||
|
有片岩石突出来像只耳朵，看着有趣。爬上去发现已经油光锃亮了，可以坐一会儿。后半段点不多，有些难
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| 5.10c 5.10d |
★★ Big Beginner
| 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
#soft 比附近的其他10d简单。动作多样，流畅。点开始包浆了
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| 5.11b 5.10d |
★★ Lay Backer
| 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
需要双好鞋，找好脚点。
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| 5.11a |
★ One Time
| 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
|
第三挂片难点，直上要扣，扣不住。从右边一点走简单不少。
|
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| 5.10b |
Hidden Smoke
| 11m, 3 | Average | |||
|
我从左边起步，横切挂第一挂片。
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| Mon 6th Apr 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
| Crazy Corners | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★★ Happy Feet
| 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
#repeat
不平衡，比5.9难些
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| 5.12+ 5.12b |
★ Marshmallow Glove
| 14m, 7 | ||||
| 5.11b |
★★ Chinese Ladders
| 11m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 5th Apr 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
| Mika's Ledge | ||||||
| 5.12d 5.12c |
★★ Here Or There ??
| 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10d |
★★ Almost Killed Bamboo Farmer
| 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
|
难点在翻屋檐，缝不深，半个指节。手指小的人可能有些优势。
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| Sun 5th Apr 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
| Midlands | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★★ The Air Up There
| 31m, 16 | Average | |||
|
上半段是微仰角大点风格。爬的人不多，很多干青苔。
|
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| 5.11b |
★★ Slicin
| 30m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
电子路书又少了5个挂片
下半段不错，风格不算常见，沿裂缝一路侧拉反提，翻屋檐小难点。之后face面不难，直到最后一个挂片是难点。裂缝渗水掉了，不过估计就算没水也没法on。对于臂展够的人，右侧比较远的地方有个关键的crimp/侧拉点，和一个还可以的小脚点。 找到这两个点之后，过的还算顺利。 臂展不够的人，可能需要直上，动作更难。
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| Sat 4th Apr 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
| Mika's Ledge | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★★ Black Hole Heart
| 23m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
|
沿俯角裂缝上，一直感觉不平衡，需要找layback对抗。最后两个挂片靠左，翻顶。顶靠里，磨绳。要是把顶下降一个挂片，这条线路就更加合理了，可评2:star: 。#NoTopRope 不建议顶绳攀爬。
|
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| 5.12d |
★★ Here Or There ??
| 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.12d 5.12c |
★★ Here Or There ??
| 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
基本分三段。前三个挂片第一段layback，最简单，注意要省力气。第二段是主要难点，3进4，crimp和sloper拍平台，需要指力、肩背、和好的beta。到顶的第三段是次要难点，要挂脚，侧拉crimp并手，上脚。难度在于后半段10多个V3-V4动作完美的执行。
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| Sat 4th Apr 2020 - 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ||||||
| The Prow | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★★ Van Damned
| 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
#repeat 热身，pumped
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| Sat 22nd Feb 2020 - Railay | ||||||
| Thaiwand Wall | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★ Sanuked
| 40m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
|
Traverse right and the overhang are the crux, bolt is run-out right after the overhang, it would be better to add a bolt here. Jugs for the rest. 70m rope is barely enough to descent, remember to tie the end knots.Top is a small cave, to sit and belay.
|
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| 6b+ |
★★ Getting to know youu (Getting to Know You)
| 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Great quality rock, a small ledge on the top to belay.
|
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| Fri 21st Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| Eagle Wall Main Face | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Lost in Space
| 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
some nice moves, crux near the top
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| Fri 21st Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| Eagle Wall Left Side | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Desayuno de Nono
| 30m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
|
3 sections, crux in the middle section. Long route with various styles, the drag near the top is terrible.
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| Fri 21st Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| The Nest & Wild Kingdom | ||||||
| 7a+ |
★★ Totem
| 28m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
|
Feel weak and powerless. To clean draws
|
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| Thu 20th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| The Nest & Wild Kingdom | ||||||
| 7a+ |
★★ Totem
- with
lollypop
| 28m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
| 6b |
★ Wacky Weed
| 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
| Wed 19th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| The Nest & Wild Kingdom | ||||||
| 7a |
★★ Freedom Safari
| 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Made the same mistake as the 2nd try, damm
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| Tue 18th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| Tyrolean Wall | ||||||
| 7a |
★★ Lars & Lars
- with
lollypop
| 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
#2go
There are three different beta for the upper crux: left, center, right. Left beta is probably the easiest for long reach. Classic balancy route.
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| 7a |
★★ Lars & Lars
| 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Great technical route, doesn’t need power. One take at the 2nd crux, failed flash attemp.
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| 7a |
★★ Schwer und Steil
| 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
#4go static beta for the crux. Rest day really helps.
|
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| 6b+ |
★ Longes Feschtl
| 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 16th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| The Nest & Wild Kingdom | ||||||
| 7a |
★★ Freedom Safari
| 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
changed beta at the crux, better, but still fall. Should send it next time.Right foot close to right hand and stand up for the next jug, then do a cross hand to the anchor.
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| Sun 16th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| Tyrolean Wall | ||||||
| 7a |
★★ Schwer und Steil
| 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
| 7a |
★★ Schwer und Steil
| 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 15th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| The Nest & Wild Kingdom | ||||||
| 7a |
★★ Freedom Safari
| 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7a |
★★ Freedom Safari
| 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Endurance, crux near the top. One fall, wrong move.
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| Sat 15th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| Tyrolean Wall | ||||||
| 7a |
★★ Schwer und Steil
| 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
Crux at 4th bolt. There is a crack below the right hand slopper, horizontal pinch is more secure.
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| Sat 15th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | ||||||
| 7a |
★★ Don Quijote de la Mancha
| 15m, 5 | ||||
|
Was told a 6b warm up route...
|
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| Fri 14th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | ||||||
| 7a+ |
★★ Reminiscence
| 28m, 8 | ||||
|
Upper crux is a puzzle to solve.
|
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| Fri 14th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| Tyrolean Wall | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★★ Missing Snow
| 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
endurance. Nick name is “three pipes”
|
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| Thu 13th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | ||||||
| 7a+ |
★★★ Wake & Bake (Wake and Bake)
- with
lollypop
| 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
First climb of the day, too tight. Finger taping was loose, one fall. Lesson learned: need proper warm up, fix uncertainties.
|
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| 7a+ |
★★★ Wake & Bake (Wake and Bake)
- with
lollypop
| 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Better beta for the first crux, new and wrong beta for the 2nd crux, fall and down.
|
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| 7a+ |
★★★ Wake & Bake (Wake and Bake)
- with
lollypop
| 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
#4go
finally relaxed and paid more attention to left footwork.
|
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| Wed 12th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| Dum's Kitchen | ||||||
| 7a+ |
★★★ Wake & Bake (Wake and Bake)
| 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Overhanging crack, awesome.
|
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| Wed 12th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| Tyrolean Wall | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★ Longes Feschtl
| 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
Crux at the 4th bolt. Very polished left foot hold, made it harder.
|
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| Tue 11th Feb 2020 - Ton Sai | ||||||
| Fire Wall | ||||||
| 6c+ |
★★ Fire Starter
| 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Great route with various movement. Crux near the top, finger holes.
|
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| 6a+ |
★★ Up in Smoke
| 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Polished jugs
|
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| 6c+ |
★ Fire Show
| 17m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
|
Crux at the 2nd bolt, then easy polished face climbing.
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| Sat 8th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
| Honeymoon | ||||||
| 6a |
★★ Full Metal Jacket
| 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Smooth moves on smooth jugs.
|
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| Sat 8th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
| Hilton | ||||||
| 6c |
★★★ Mon General
| 25m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Crux around 4th bolt, hard to read correctly from below. Not hard to red point though.
|
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| Sat 8th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
| Open All Hours | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★★★ From Dusk Till Dawn
| 32m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Traverse and the tube are great. Need good tech and footwork.
|
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| 6a+ |
★★ 100% Special
| 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Fun climb, jugs
|
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| Fri 7th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
| Spielhölle | ||||||
| 6b+ 6b |
★★ Roulette
| 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
slab balancy start, small roof finish. Great route. Given the slab and traverse, I think it is harder than 'slot machine'.
|
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| Thu 6th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
| Methan | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Fränkischer Einstieg
| 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
|
Jug stairs, to great face climb, to overhang. Harder as you climb up.
|
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| 6b+ |
★★★ Ziegenpeter
| 32m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Steep jugs, balancy face. Pumped out after the crux, time for rest day.
|
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| Thu 6th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
| Elephant | ||||||
| 6a+ 6a |
★★ Beginner's Roof
| 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Need good core
|
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| Wed 5th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
| Music Hall | ||||||
| 5c+ |
★★★ Caveman
| 10m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
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Crazy roof crawling, even through a hole. Very unique style, must do.
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| 6b+ |
★★ Stairway
| 11m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Steep overhang climbing. #Hard to onsight, one hang after last bolt. #Sandbagged
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| Wed 5th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
| Canyon Canyon Left | ||||||
| 6a |
★★★ Kim and Struppi
| 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Nice long climb, upper section is chimney style
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| 6b |
★★★ Arkanoid
| 30m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Failed to start
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| 6b |
★★★ Arkanoid
| 30m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Hard start, should use side crimp to the far right to make it easier. Tricky finish
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| Wed 5th Feb 2020 - Pha Tam Kam | ||||||
| Canyon Canyon Right | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★★ Super Meat Boy
| 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Crux at the overhang before the ledge, afterwards are nice polished crack. May climb with trad gears.
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