Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Diamond Cave | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Diamonds are Forever - with lollypop | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Dec 2019 | |||
Power moves. 大点大动作,舒展,好线。
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6b 6b+ | ★★ Les Petites Oreilles | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | Sun 15th Dec 2019 | |||
大点,更需要技术,动作做好了不费劲。第一个挂片有点高
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6a+ 7a | ★ Keep the Jam, Man (Keep the Jam Man p1) | 70m, 15 | Average | Sun 15th Dec 2019 | |||
被右边的钟乳石引诱走错方向,应该保持左边。又一条包浆线。very polished.
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay The Keep | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Nut Cracker | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 16th Dec 2019 | |||
难点在后半段的横切和结束,技术平衡风格。结束的长距离动作差点掉,撑住了! 应该是我目前os的最难的线路。technical, balance, pumped.
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7a+ |
★★ Tongue Thaid (Tongue Thaid P1)
1
7a+
20m
| 20m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Dec 2019 | |||
难点在指洞翻顶,第一次没找到合适的方法
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7a+ |
★★ Tongue Thaid (Tongue Thaid P1)
1
7a+
| 32m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Dec 2019 | |||
不少指洞。take了两把,爬的有些紧,耐力还不够,动作需要优化。最后难点需要一个一指指洞过度一下,注意选择脚点。
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Hidden World | |||||||
6b | ★ Space Head Gone Ape | 11m, 5 | ★ Good | Tue 17th Dec 2019 | |||
沿钟乳上,难点在最后一个挂片。
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Duncan's Boot | |||||||
6b 6c | ★ Mai Prue | 12m, 3 | Average | Tue 17th Dec 2019 | |||
大点微仰角,岩壁看着不太干净
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay One-Two-Three | |||||||
5 | ★ King Cobra | 13m, 5 | Average | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | |||
爬的人太多了,点都包浆了。 polished
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6b+ | ★★ Orientales | 27m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | |||
耐力风格好线。向左横切,翻上钟乳这一块是难点,之后不要犯错。pumped, endurance.
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6b 6a+ | ★★ Make a Way | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Dec 2019 | |||
大点耐力,没有特别难的动作,可以很流畅
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6a+ | ★★ We Sad - with lollypop | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | |||
一直沿钟乳石向上,都是jug,不过需要对抗开门,适合热身。
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6c | ★★ Kratoy | 26m, 11 | Sun 15th Dec 2019 | ||||
难点在出大洞
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6a | ★★ Ramazon | 24m, 10 | ★ Good | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | |||
翻出钟乳石比较有趣,需要点胆量。
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Muay Thai | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Muay Thai (Muai Thai) | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Dec 2019 | |||
仰角+钟乳石风格
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Wee's Present Wall | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Same Same, but Different | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | |||
hard start, easy after 2nd bolt.
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7a | ★★ Milky Way | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | |||
Really need to find good feet holes and trust them.
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6a+ | ★★ Hello Christine | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | |||
6a | ★★ A Man Can Tell a 1000 Lies | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | Wed 18th Dec 2019 | |||
休息日,没带装备,借了安全带,光脚爬的。bare foot on the rest day
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Railay Thaiwand Wall | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Sanuked | 40m, 14 | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Feb 2020 | |||
Traverse right and the overhang are the crux, bolt is run-out right after the overhang, it would be better to add a bolt here. Jugs for the rest. 70m rope is barely enough to descent, remember to tie the end knots.Top is a small cave, to sit and belay.
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6b+ | ★★ Getting to know youu (Getting to Know You) | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Feb 2020 | |||
Great quality rock, a small ledge on the top to belay.
|
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai The Nest & Wild Kingdom | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Overstay | 27m, 7 | ★ Good | Tue 1st May 2018 | |||
one take after the last bolt a nice resting place after the 4th bolt.
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7a | ★★ Freedom Safari | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 19th Feb 2020 | |||
Made the same mistake as the 2nd try, damm
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7a | ★★ Freedom Safari | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Feb 2020 | |||
7a | ★★ Freedom Safari | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Feb 2020 | |||
Endurance, crux near the top. One fall, wrong move.
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7a | ★★ Freedom Safari | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Feb 2020 | |||
changed beta at the crux, better, but still fall. Should send it next time.Right foot close to right hand and stand up for the next jug, then do a cross hand to the anchor.
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6a+ | ★ Barato, Barato P1 | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Thu 19th Dec 2019 | |||
The overhang is hard for the grade.
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6b | ★ Techno-Bug | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | Tue 1st May 2018 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Banana Hammock | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st May 2018 | |||
Interesting climb on (polished) tufa. One hang while trying to climb between two tufas, should go with left tufa directly.
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7a+ | ★★ Totem - with lollypop | 28m, 11 | ★ Good | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Totem | 28m, 11 | ★ Good | Fri 21st Feb 2020 | |||
Feel weak and powerless. To clean draws
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6c | ★★★ Dozer Days P1 | 27m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st May 2018 | |||
very fun route, 3D climbing, many variations
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6b | ★ Wacky Weed | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | |||
6a | ★ Caroline's Last Day P1 | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st May 2018 | |||
Be aware of monkey base jump!
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Fire Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | |||
fun chimney climb, easy for the grade
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6b | ★★ Boobtube | 30m, 12 | ★ Good | Fri 20th Dec 2019 | |||
中间钟乳蘑菇单步难点
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6a+ | ★★ For Helga | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Apr 2018 | |||
6b+ | ★★ White Hot Hernias (White Hot Hernia) | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 20th Dec 2019 | |||
下半段是爬钟乳石,上半段face,有点难。
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6c+ | ★★ Fire Starter | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 11th Feb 2020 | |||
Great route with various movement. Crux near the top, finger holes.
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6c+ | ★ Fire Show | 17m, 8 | ★ Good | Tue 11th Feb 2020 | |||
Crux at the 2nd bolt, then easy polished face climbing.
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6a+ | ★★ Up in Smoke | 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Feb 2020 | |||
Polished jugs
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Cobra Wall | |||||||
6b+ | ★ The Last of its Kind (Name unknown) | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Dec 2019 | |||
起步和结束难一些
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6a+ | ★ Cobra Head | 25m, 12 | ★ Good | Sat 21st Dec 2019 | |||
6a 6a+ | ★ Snake Skin | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Dec 2019 | |||
Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Eagle Wall Main Face | |||||||
6b | ★★ Lost in Space | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 21st Feb 2020 | |||
some nice moves, crux near the top
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Eagle Wall Left Side | |||||||
6b | ★★ Desayuno de Nono | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | Fri 21st Feb 2020 | |||
3 sections, crux in the middle section. Long route with various styles, the drag near the top is terrible.
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7a | ★★ Lars & Lars - with lollypop | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 18th Feb 2020 | |||
#2go
There are three different beta for the upper crux: left, center, right. Left beta is probably the easiest for long reach. Classic balancy route.
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7a | ★★ Lars & Lars | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 18th Feb 2020 | |||
Great technical route, doesn’t need power. One take at the 2nd crux, failed flash attemp.
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6b+ | ★ Longes Feschtl | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | Tue 18th Feb 2020 | |||
6b+ | ★ Longes Feschtl | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | Wed 12th Feb 2020 | |||
Crux at the 4th bolt. Very polished left foot hold, made it harder.
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7a | ★★ Schwer und Steil | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Tue 18th Feb 2020 | |||
#4go static beta for the crux. Rest day really helps.
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7a | ★★ Schwer und Steil | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sun 16th Feb 2020 | |||
7a | ★★ Schwer und Steil | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sun 16th Feb 2020 | |||
7a | ★★ Schwer und Steil | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sat 15th Feb 2020 | |||
Crux at 4th bolt. There is a crack below the right hand slopper, horizontal pinch is more secure.
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6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Feb 2020 | |||
endurance. Nick name is “three pipes”
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Reminiscence | 28m, 8 | Wed 2nd May 2018 | ||||
One bolt left
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7a+ | ★★ Reminiscence | 28m, 8 | Fri 14th Feb 2020 | ||||
Upper crux is a puzzle to solve.
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6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz (Pahn Taalod) | 15m, 6 | Average | Wed 2nd May 2018 | |||
So polished
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7a | ★★ Don Quijote de la Mancha | 15m, 5 | Sat 15th Feb 2020 | ||||
Was told a 6b warm up route...
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7a+ | ★★★ Wake & Bake (Wake and Bake) - with lollypop | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 13th Feb 2020 | |||
#4go
finally relaxed and paid more attention to left footwork.
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7a+ | ★★★ Wake & Bake (Wake and Bake) - with lollypop | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 13th Feb 2020 | |||
Better beta for the first crux, new and wrong beta for the 2nd crux, fall and down.
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7a+ | ★★★ Wake & Bake (Wake and Bake) | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 12th Feb 2020 | |||
Overhanging crack, awesome.
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7a+ | ★★★ Wake & Bake (Wake and Bake) - with lollypop | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 13th Feb 2020 | |||
First climb of the day, too tight. Finger taping was loose, one fall. Lesson learned: need proper warm up, fix uncertainties.
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Asia Thailand Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7b | ★★ Café Andaman | 10m, 4 | Thu 19th Dec 2019 | ||||
7b | ★★ Café Andaman | 10m, 4 | Thu 19th Dec 2019 | ||||
7b | ★★ Café Andaman | 10m, 4 | Fri 20th Dec 2019 | ||||
7b | ★★ Café Andaman | 10m, 4 | Fri 20th Dec 2019 | ||||
7b | ★★ Café Andaman | 10m, 4 | Fri 20th Dec 2019 | ||||
差最后一个动作,挂不了顶
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7b | ★★ Café Andaman | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Dec 2019 | |||
7b | ★★ Café Andaman | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Dec 2019 | |||
7b | ★★ Café Andaman | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Dec 2019 | |||
最后一个点就是够不到,大屋檐的经验不够,动作不对。just couldn’t make the last move
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7a+ | ★★ Riesenbaby | 10m, 4 | Thu 19th Dec 2019 | ||||
Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Burnout | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Work-Life Balance | 20m, 11 | Mon 3rd Feb 2020 | ||||
Left hand crimp, retreat.
又被左手crimp劝退... |
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Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Methan | |||||||
6b | ★★ Fränkischer Einstieg | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | Thu 6th Feb 2020 | |||
Jug stairs, to great face climb, to overhang. Harder as you climb up.
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6b+ | ★★★ Ziegenpeter | 32m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 6th Feb 2020 | |||
Steep jugs, balancy face. Pumped out after the crux, time for rest day.
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Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Honeymoon | |||||||
6a | ★★ Full Metal Jacket | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Feb 2020 | |||
Smooth moves on smooth jugs.
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Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Roof Right Side | |||||||
7b | ★★ Schwing mei Ding Extension (Schwing mei Ding) | 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 4th Feb 2020 | |||
#2go another V3/4 roof problem on top of the first pitch. Use head to push against the roof for no hand resting. Then hit the jug right, many toe and heel hook and pull up. My first 7b /5.12b
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7b | ★★ Schwing mei Ding Extension (Schwing mei Ding) | 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 4th Feb 2020 | |||
Didn’t catch the jug, falled and couldn’t get back.
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7a+ | ★★ Schwing dei Ding | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 4th Feb 2020 | |||
#2go
Classic crazy route! Most 3D route I ever climbed!
Beta spoil alert, don’t read this if you want to onsight. —————————— First crux at lower traverse, polished foot holes, unclip 4th draw, then lie down for no hand rest. Second crux across the roof and over, right hand out near the bolt, left hand into the hole on the roof, feet up and put your waist against the hanging flake, right hand to ledge, left hand across over, swing out. Then traverse above the bolt line to anchor. |
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7a+ | ★★ Schwing dei Ding | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 4th Feb 2020 | |||
Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Elephant | |||||||
6a | ★★ Beginner's Roof | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 31st Jan 2020 | |||
Clean draws for others
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6a+ 6a | ★★ Beginner's Roof | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 6th Feb 2020 | |||
Need good core
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6a | ★★ Priapismus | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 31st Jan 2020 | |||
Nice tufa climbing on good quality rock
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6a+ | ★★ Sunrise | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Feb 2020 | |||
Overhang traverse crux at the 2nd bolt. Good climb.
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6b | ★★ Between Night and Day | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Feb 2020 | |||
3D overhang jugs
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Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Hilton | |||||||
6a | ★★ Pinzgauer Bua | 23m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Feb 2020 | |||
Great tufa climbing, some variations, not boring.
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6c | ★★★ Mon General | 25m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Feb 2020 | |||
Crux around 4th bolt, hard to read correctly from below. Not hard to red point though.
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6b+ | ★★ Fried Brit | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Feb 2020 | |||
big tufas, 3D climbing. Starting is hard, stick clip first if possible. Bring more long draws, otherwise the drag would be terrible.
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6b | ★★ Red Ants | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Feb 2020 | |||
Tufa and face
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Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Climbers Home | |||||||
6b | ★★ Already done | 29m, 12 | Average | Sun 2nd Feb 2020 | |||
The lower half is overhanging jugs, fun and harder, dirty though. Upper half is razor sharp rocks and boring.
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Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Spielhölle | |||||||
6b+ 6b | ★★ Roulette | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Feb 2020 | |||
slab balancy start, small roof finish. Great route. Given the slab and traverse, I think it is harder than 'slot machine'.
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Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Tree Lounge | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Illusion | 19m, 6 | Average | Mon 3rd Feb 2020 | |||
Reachy crux at 3rd bolt. May hit the ledge before clipping 4th bolt, so make sure you are solid at this grade.
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Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Music Hall | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Stairway | 11m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Feb 2020 | |||
Steep overhang climbing. #Hard to onsight, one hang after last bolt. #Sandbagged
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5c+ | ★★★ Caveman | 10m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 5th Feb 2020 | |||
Crazy roof crawling, even through a hole. Very unique style, must do.
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Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Canyon Canyon Right | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Super Meat Boy | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Feb 2020 | |||
Crux at the overhang before the ledge, afterwards are nice polished crack. May climb with trad gears.
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Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Canyon Canyon Left | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Arkanoid | 30m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Feb 2020 | |||
Failed to start
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6b | ★★★ Arkanoid | 30m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Feb 2020 | |||
Hard start, should use side crimp to the far right to make it easier. Tricky finish
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6a | ★★★ Kim and Struppi | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Feb 2020 | |||
Nice long climb, upper section is chimney style
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Asia Laos Thakhek Pha Tam Kam Botanical Garden | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Flower Power | 25m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Feb 2020 | |||
Overhang endurance for the upper half, great moves
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6c | ★★ Morning Glory | 25m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Feb 2020 | |||
onsight attemp, very close, one hang, wrong hand at the crux. Went left to avoid using the same holds as Flower Power. Switched to left hand pinch, then cruise.
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