Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Yates Yard | ||||||
V1 | ★ LED | 3m | ||||
classic boulder retreat: holds run out up high, sun in eyes, slopers all around, Nope
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V0 | ★ Pristine Slab | |||||
yum holds
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V0+ | Big Palmer | |||||
such a good left hand start hold i had to get full value out of it.
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V0 | ★ Chute Up | |||||
tufas and smears
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V0 | ★ The Unbeatable High | |||||
Soundtracked by Riot by Dead Kennedys hence the name. a nice time. watch your head on the tree https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cxy8DuLypfT/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
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V1 | ★ Smear Out | ★ Good | ||||
if you like smeary slabs you will have fun. balancey
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V2 | ★★ Low Traverse — 3 attempts | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
great little climb!
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V1 | ★ Up In Arms | 2m | ★ Good | |||
cooool gaston move
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V2 | Snowflakes Assist | 4m | ||||
i think i did a messy combination of the 3 climbs in this spot.
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V4 | Snowflakes | 4m | ||||
cool line, crimps seem to run out when it gets high
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Jannali Reserve | ||||||
V0 | Corned Flakes | |||||
flakes
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V0 | ★ Na Na Na (Suprise) | ★ Good | ||||
rampy
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V1 | ★★ Toms Thumb | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thumbdercling was very fun
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V0 | ★ Pokemon | |||||
Pokemon mon mon
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V0 | ★★ Jug Jug | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great juggy route
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V0 | ★ Central Jug | |||||
Happy good times
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V1 | Glob | |||||
In Glob we trust
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V1 | ★ BA KU | ★ Good | ||||
an interesting time
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V3 | ★★ Oesophagus full of biscuits — 5 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
fave new climb in this section
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Carss Park | ||||||
The Front Row | ||||||
V0 | People Power | |||||
V2 | Slap-A-Slab | ★ Good | ||||
V2 | ★★ Silky Smooth | ★★★ Classic | ||||
V1 | ★ Lux Interior | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 3rd Feb 2023 - Little Bay | ||||||
Cape Banks Tidal Area | ||||||
V2 | ★ Crabs R Hilarious — 6 attempts - with Rohan Nowell | 3m | ★ Good | |||
found this fun little grippy arete full of scoops and edges. last climb of the day and only just had it in me.
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Fri 3rd Feb 2023 - Little Bay | ||||||
Cape Banks | ||||||
V1 | ★ Express Corner — 4 attempts | 3m | ||||
Tricky
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VB | ★★ Barnacle | 3m | ||||
Croc ascent
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VB | ★ Bunco | 3m | ||||
Croc ascent
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V3 | ★★ Suncorp — 3 attempts | 4m | ||||
I only saw just now that it says to avoid the arete jugs of st George. Hmm we did it that way and it was fun and still felt like a v3
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V2 | ★ St George | 4m | ||||
Good times
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Sat 3rd Dec 2022 - Carss Park | ||||||
The Front Row | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Silky Smooth | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mmmmmm so bulgy and prominent
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V1 | ★ Lux Interior | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Love it
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V2 | ★ The Lichen Street Shuffle — 5 attempts | |||||
Spend half an hour balancing on your big toes trying to find some more feet. Who doesn't love a downward trending slab traverse?
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Thu 23rd Jun 2022 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Frontline Front and Centre | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Diplomatic Solution - with Rohan Nowell, Jake Delaney, clank mummas and pappas | 3m | ||||
Fun! Plant your taint to gain the send
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V4 | ★★ Diplomatic Immunity - with Rohan Nowell, Jake Delaney, clank mummas and pappas | 3m | ||||
Cool rock features. Didn't want to sacrifice my skin to this today. Maybe next time
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V5 | ★★★ Sloper-Dan Milosevic | 5m | ||||
It was never gonna live up to the huge hype. But I was definitely underwhelmed. Didn't really inspire me to keep trying it. The pincer movement was way cooler in my opinion. But maybe the rest of it is awesome! just not my thing? Don't let me yuk your yum. But do try pincer movement!
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Thu 23rd Jun 2022 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Frontline The Corridor Boulders | ||||||
V5 | ★★ The Pincer Movement | 4m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What a great unique line. Took many attempts to figure out my sequence. Slow and steady was the key instead of fast big moves.
One of my all time faves I reckon
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Thu 23rd Jun 2022 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Frontline Frontline Left Hand Side | ||||||
V1 | ★ Bangers Sit Start - with Rohan Nowell | 3m | ||||
Akward start
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V0- | ★ M.A.S.H. - with Rohan Nowell | 3m | ||||
V0 | ★ Point of View - with Rohan Nowell | 3m | ||||
V1 V1 R | ★ Choppers - with Rohan Nowell | 3m | ||||
Not too spicy
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V0 | ★ Frontrow - with Rohan Nowell | 3m | ||||
Thu 23rd Jun 2022 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Frontline The Eastern Bloc | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Eastern Bloc Arete - with Jake Delaney, Rohan Nowell, various clank daddies | 3m | ||||
V3 | ★★ It ain't no Omaha Beach - with Jake Delaney, Rohan Nowell, various clank daddies | 4m | ||||
V5 | ★★ Berlin Blockade - with Jake Delaney, Rohan Nowell, various clank daddies | 3m | ||||
Should go when fresh. Cool climb
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Thu 16th Jun 2022 - Jannali Reserve | ||||||
V2 | ★★ C | |||||
Spent more time trying this as I felt bad trashing it every time I see it. Still feels completely impossible, a v6, and I still don't like it for being a sandbag
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V4 | ★★ Wall Crawler (Crimpy Wall Right) - with Jake Delaney, mike drinkswater | 3m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of my favourite boulders ever. #changethename. Please let's all agree to call this beautiful climb something better.
Def a grade or so harder than the left one
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V0 | ★ and Jalad - with Jake Delaney, mike drinkswater | 2m | ||||
V0+ | ★ (Temba, His Arms Wide) - with Jake Delaney, mike drinkswater | 2m | ||||
Legs wide
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V1 | ★ at Tanagra! - with Jake Delaney | 2m | ||||
Cave me
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V7 | ★★ Quadruple Bypass - with Jake Delaney, mike drinkswater | 5m | ||||
Not yet or soon
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V5 | ★★★ Wish You Were Here - with Jake Delaney, mike drinkswater | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Still dialled apparently
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V6 | ★★ You Can't Change History - with Jake Delaney, mike drinkswater | 5m | ||||
Feels too sketch even with more pads and spotters. And at my strength level
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V1 | ★ Jubilee - with Jake Delaney, mike drinkswater | 4m | ||||
V0 | ★★ depths of time - with Jake Delaney, mike drinkswater | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 7th Jun 2022 - Jannali Reserve | ||||||
V1 | ★ Darmok - with lydia | 2m | ||||
Harder than I remember. Reached at the top. Cool moves down low though
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V1 | ★★ Lean-to (A) - with lydia | 3m | ||||
Great moves and holds. A sting in the tail with the topout too. Needs a better name of course
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V2 | ★★ C - with lydia | |||||
I just wanted to log that this seems impossible. If I was told v7 I would be like 'o yeah that seems fair'. I must be missing something (apart from strength, technique and mental game).
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V4 | ★★ Call a Lawyer (Crimpy Wall Left) - with lydia | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Greeeeaaaattt. I still probably prefer the right climb, and for me the right felt a bit harder. But really great technical face climbing. Topout wasn't too bad either. Again these climbs needs some inspiring names. Come FAers, get creative.
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Tue 17th May 2022 - The School (Bouldering) | ||||||
V1 | ★ Mantle Madness - with Rohan Nowell | 3m | ||||
Fun
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V0 | Pocket Lint (Slight Return) - with Rohan Nowell | 3m | ||||
V0 | Bird Up! - with Rohan Nowell | 4m | ||||
V1 | Choss Point - with Rohan Nowell | |||||
Chossy start but the big move makes up for it
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V1 | ★ Dropout - with Rohan Nowell | 4m | ★ Good | |||
A fun addition to the crag
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V2 | ★★ Hooky - with Rohan Nowell | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I really enjoyed this. I pressed back into the roof and converted it to an undercling to find the jug. Rotub went direct.
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V1 | ★ Taipan Prow - with Rohan Nowell | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Big call: best v1 in the shire? I certainly do it every time I'm here.
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V2 | ★ Rooflet Up - with Rohan Nowell | 4m | ||||
Bulgy
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V1 | FA Consolation Cave - with Rohan Nowell | |||||
A sulky FA after having chicken Crimpys swooped out infront of me by sneaky strongboi rotub! An exploding foot made the first attempt exotic. Roofy with a slopey topout
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | ||||||
Plantation Boulders The Hourglass | ||||||
5C | ★ Slopey Pokey - with jc | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Friction times
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | ||||||
Plantation Boulders Bullworker and Crozzle Block | ||||||
5B | ★ Crozzle Slab | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves but soooo sharp
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | ||||||
Plantation Boulders The Business Boulder | ||||||
4B 3C | ★ Nobody's Business - with jc | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Relaxed. Nice
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V1 5B | ★★ Slot Standup - with jc | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really enjoyed this
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | ||||||
Plantation Boulders The Pebble | ||||||
4+ | ★★ Pebble Flakes - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice flowy moves
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6A | ★★★ Pebble Arete - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 4m | ||||
Oooo what a joy. Like crescent arete but a bit less high, scary, and a better landing. The final move off a bad smear was my crux. Exciting
Tom Bes
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4 | ★★ Pebble Face - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Cool first move then a bit plain
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | ||||||
Plantation Boulders The Lone Boulder | ||||||
V2 | ★★ The Lone Arete - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Loved it. Beautiful flowing rock
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V2 | ★★ The Lone Slab - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | ★ Good | ||||
Much harder than lone scoop and less of a quality line maybe?
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6B | ★★ Steep Side (Sit Start) - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very nice easy moves
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V2 | ★★ Lone Scoop - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Loved this a lot. Very satisfying slap for the top and unbelievable how much friction you can get of the basically flat vertical smears!
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | ||||||
Plantation Boulders Mental Block | ||||||
4B | ★ Scoops Arete - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 4m | ||||
Another fun high ish introduction to stanage bouldering
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4C | ★★ Scoops Slab - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great high slabbing
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4C | Scoops Groove - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Move into a high cramped position under the lip was a bit of spice. Exciting
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | ||||||
Plantation Boulders Crescent Arete Area | ||||||
5C | ★★★ Crescent Arete | 7m | ★★ Very Good | |||
got higher and higher into the crux but just couldnt commit to matching on the arete on those terrible smears. too high, too slopey a landing for me. first shutdown of the trip, but not the last
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Tue 22nd Mar 2022 - Bangor Blocs | ||||||
Blocs | ||||||
V0 | Mount Celeste - with Rohan Nowell | |||||
A fun low commitment intro to the high slabs next door.
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V2 | FA Blunted | |||||
Was trying for the direct route staying in the middle of the blunt arete. But as you move high and left the landing gets bad and the holds disappear. Maybe I will do it on a day I feel bolder. The escape out right at the top wasn't much easier, just a better landing. The start was really cool if you stay in the middle, slopey compression moves and heel hooks.
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V1 | ★ Why | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
greeeaaat committing slabbing. feels a little bit spookier than the v4 as you are stepping across rather than straight up. for me at least. and not that much easier than the v4.
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V2 | ★ Crabbing | 6m | ★ Good | |||
funky start which is the hardest move.
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V4 | ★ Whyds | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
really cool. having the top dialled in from doing the v1 first was helpful. really thin stuff to gain the bigger flake up top
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V4 | ★★ Cool | 6m | ||||
big bling slap over the lip was shutting me down. maybe when i am fresh. a great route though. the mantle move is worth doing by itself.
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V1 | ★ Reach | 6m | ||||
definitely a reach. had to put two pads under to get the first hold.
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Thu 17th Feb 2022 - Jannali Reserve | ||||||
V0 | ★ Rogue - with Rohan Nowell | 5m | ||||
Classic
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V0 | ★★ depths of time - with Rohan Nowell | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Classico
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V0 | ★ Storm - with Rohan Nowell | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Class
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V4 | ★★ Wall Crawler (Crimpy Wall Right) - with Rohan Nowell | 3m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Reeeeeally liked this. Very thin and technical on a nice clean face. The top out is no gimme either. But pleeeeaaaassseee can we agree on a more interesting name. Maybe something beginning with C W R like coke with rum or whatever. And coke with lime on the left? Something like that. Anything please. As there is no FA info I don't know how this can happen. And I have a funny feeling that renaming climbs might open a can of worms. Just a feeling.
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V1 | ★ Jubilee - with Rohan Nowell | 4m | ||||
Managed to avoid the spider web edge in the middle this time. Classpider
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Thu 10th Feb 2022 - Jannali Reserve | ||||||
V0 | ★★ depths of time | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Can't not love climbing on these features.
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V0 | ★ Rogue | 5m | ||||
This has got to be one of the most aesthetically pleasing beginner walls around. What a great route.
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V2 | ★ Sweat Bandit | |||||
If you like this kind of thing, you'll love this kind of thing. Textbook bat hang to quality precarious mantle. There is definitely potential for another hard shouldery route in between this and Sunday fiesta using the undercling pinches. I couldn't get it today though
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V3 | ★★ Sunday fiesta | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool route. There is some chalk one some crimps in the cave but all the feet in there are pure sand choss. It feels like a crappy way to start, maybe a lost boulderer? So I just started on the good rock on the lip.
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V0 | ★ Storm | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great times
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V5 | ★★★ Wish You Were Here | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Finally got past the big sidepull that I could get to in almost every attempt. A few times I was shut down by leaves in the slot, but mainly just lack of commitment at that point. A key foot swap out right helped me push through. Great climbing.
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