Tried this for a while yesterday, first move is okay, second move is where it gets hard, then a couple of compression bumps with good opposing heals into hard lower lip then looks to be good to the top. Couple more sessions on this will be needed for sure. Looks like it will be several grades harder than Old Is The New Sexy
Maybe nothing to write home about but still somewhat classic? Hard first move, from a mono and a sharp pocket. Doesn't happen often enough, or maybe just the right amount of times, have not made up my mind just yet. It's what nightmares are made of but climbs just as good as it looks. Definitely worth getting on!
Took me a little while to figure out how to do the first two moves/wraps but got it done in a short session, was great watching Ali send it second shot!
Did 4 "laps" of the starting sequence to the mantle. Full sun made it feel like 40 degrees in front of the boulder. Bad conditions, 2 pads and no spotters made me not want to do the top. Moved on trying to find shade.
Funnily, I had some hard times repeating what I had already climbed a long long time ago. And after getting beta sprayed with my own beta failed to work, watching a video of my own beta did work and hard times turned into fun times with the crew and a great day out
Finally ticked it!!! Have worked it on and off for about a year but it finally went down. Mega classic! Longest link-up in the cave. Fell of the last hold before sending it half an hour later!
